Spectacular fizzy floral classic (aromatic) eau de cologne and a new entry among the favorite on mine in this olfactory range. George F. Trumper Curzon Cologne sails actually those perfumed "waters" waving in the middle between the classic old school eau de colognes and the "future" upcoming mossy-floral (and...,why not?...also vaguely leathery) aromatic fougeres. The opening is indeed for a while classically "eau de cologne-like" (but by soon arousing a particular orangy-spicy fizziness a la Byredo Mr Marvallous-anyway "coloured" by red berries and forest fruits) with a gorgeous bergamot (a red-berrish, herbal, resinous bergamot conjuring me the Police Dark Man's opening) but the classic approach is shortly working since by soon a dominant (more massive and sweet) oakmoss-ambergris spicy accord starts performing in a way conjuring me more than vaguely fragrances as Enrico Coveri Pour Homme and Givenchy Xeryus. This accord is supported by patchouli (and woods), by a jasmine-geranium (not listed) combo, probably (I'm quite sure) by fir resins, musks-labdanum and by a touch of final suede (I detect indeed a secret rubbery-leathery undertone). A touch of galbanum too? I feel indeed a diaphanous sort of resinous-mossy vibe around (not properly sticky but absolutely musky) along the dry down (which is musky, woody, sweet and resinous). In this final musky-prickly (spicy), earthy (vetiver-patchouli??) and virile (ambergris) phase the fruity-floral influence is more plain (with a sort of red berries-jasmine feel so smooth and suede-like). I suppose a touch of final soothing vanilla (minimal) provides kind of "delicious" softness around. A great fragrance (appointed so far back in the time and magistrally riformulated) anticipating the age of the upcoming virile mossy-fougere.
17th November, 2014 (last edited: 07th January, 2015)
One of the finest among Geo F Trumper range of eau de colognes. Classic and bold opening of citrus/bergamot, floral notes of geranium, labdanum, them juniper and cumin, on a soft, aromatic, elegant woody base with also tobacco, hay, patchouli, mossy notes and perhaps a hint of vanilla too. Although it is not listed I clearly smell a leather note, which may be an "illusion" given by the mossy-earthy notes but still that is the effect – a noble, dusty, refined leather à la Knize Ten, rich and dark, with a "toasted" feel and a slight animalic-chypre heart, but with a softer and mellow nuance too. Simple, but distinctive, utterly sophisticated (in an "old school" meaning – a "British gentleman" sort of elegance, this meaning also with a hint of relaxed irony). Elegant and austere, but not heavy, on the contrary it's delicate – not light – and with a pleasant, long-lasting drydown mostly comprising patchouli, floral notes and just a bit of leather. Kind of barbershop-vibe drydown in short. One of the most pleasant classic colognes I've ever tried, given the honest price it's definitely worth at least a try.
This is one of my favorite Trumper offerings. A dry, spicy chypre, this has more to do--in my mind--with modern classics like Z-14 than any other scent from the 19th century. The oakmoss, spices and bitter woods in this leather chypre really seem like something from the 1970s--in a good way. It reminds me of another scent I love, Crabtree & Evelyn's Sienna, only drier. Far from being "dandified" like most of the house's other fragrances, this smells very masculine to me. Years ago when I was living in London I used to get my hair cut at Trumper's. Occasionally I would treat myself to an old-fashioned shave after which the barber would ask me which of their aftershaves I would like. When I first asked for Curzon, the surpised barber paused and then said "VERY good choice, Sir!"
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Curzon opens with a clean breezy lemon and lime accord which is herbal and soapy. It is light and never overpowers and projects nicely but it does not last for more then three to four hours on my skin.
This one is much more dryer than the other traditional GFT offerings (Wellington, Astor, Marlborough) and unlike the aforementioned ones this one has no real smokiness to it. There is a subtle lavender in the opening and some light sweetness, though nothing too sweet. At the heart the oakmoss takes over with force and you are left with a natural mossy fragrance. Longevity is very short and overall though nice, this one doesn’t do much for me.
Today I am briefly testing Trumper's drier, more leathery offerings Astor, Curzon, Eucris and Marlborough together. It took me a few tries to distinguish them.
Curzon is sweeter and woodier, smoke with honey. Drydown is a gentle, Preferred Stock type smoke and wood or incense, with judicious but effective spices. The sweetest of these, but well within reason. Improvement over Floris Elite.
Dry dry dry. Curzon, one of Trumper's original classic scents, is now only available in aftershave form, the cologne having been dropped properly from the cologne range last year (at which point Trumper themselves were claiming it was one of only four scents NOT to have been reformulated from its original incarnation - take that as you will). This is a review for the cologne version, 30 and 50ml bottles and testers of which can still be found in some indie chemists here in the UK. Curzon is like a more subdued Aramis Devin. Surprisingly for a 19th century traditional English frag, Curzon is neither sweet and powdery, nor is it in your face. Opens with some citrus and bitter woods and settles down to a mossy and leathery base, with some very dry herbs all the way through and a hint of patchouli way down at the back. It's the weakest of the "Classic 4" (the other three being Astor, Marlborough and Wellington) in several senses (scentses!) of the word - it has the least longevity and silage, it's the least complex and is the least nice. But it isn't bad and, if you like the idea of Devin but find it way too strong, then Curzon is perfect. It's a safe and conservative traditional frag which is unlikely to offend anyone.
Not bad but nothing to write home about either. Curzon is for the Victorian dandy in you - it's a heady floral masculine with a very strong oakmoss base, which I would assume makes this a chypre. A big, powdery English Lavender note segues into mildly spicy notes and what smells like pine, which is a nice touch but doesn't last long. The drydown is mainly oakmoss with some slightly peppery spice notes. I'm not crazy about the way the oakmoss drydown smells; it smells soggy and musty.
Overall, Curzon is just okay, with nothing that really stands out, other than its initial floral headiness and the dour, dreary oakmoss base. It smells very much like a cruder Cerruti 1881, without any of 1881's sparkle or cheerfulness. It smells like it came from the "Dandified Fragrances" recipe book and was thrown together in a rush. I expect better quality from G.F. Trumper than this.
MY RATING: 5.5/10
03rd May, 2010 (last edited: 11th May, 2010)
Bergamot, Oakmoss, French Labdanum, Patchouli and Spices.
This is quite interesting, although I must admit immediately that I am not interested in buying an actual bottle of this. No, its not THAT interesting and my sample vial will do very nicely with this one.
Curzon starts off smelling like some vintage, dated bitter leather chypre with oily structure. There is a huge doze of oakmoss in this scent.
Drydown reveals fairly complex developments and changes, and eventually I am able to relate this even to Palais Jamais by Etro. (Although I like PJ much more as it is more natural with much more timeless and versatile feel to it)
Btw, I am surprised to see not pine wood lacking from the list of notes. At least I imagine I can smell something very pine-y in this blend.
Curzon is a classical woody chypre fragrance heavy on oakmoss. Very easy too detect that vintage-like, overripe bergamot note too that flows all the way from the top to the bottom.
Curzon is bitter-green and to my mind hopelessly dated. It smells very natural in way mixed forest smells when its thick and dry growth is seeking desperately some rescuing rain showers after some long bone-dry season.
There are much better and more vital fragrances of this kind available.
Sometimes you just want something simple that does exactly what it says on the tin. This is just such a product.After a rather soapy opening, it dried down swiftly and left me feeling clean and fragrant. The longevity was pretty good, and it retained it's class for the remainder of the day.
I love this! Usually I don't like mossy scents but this one is amazing. A combination of traditional cologne and chypre compositions. Classy, dry, oakmoss, lemon, and feels natural. I'd compare this with Paco Rabanne pour Homme. Good stuff.
A very 'classic' cologne that is the epitome of the Trumpers line but for me, this smells a little dated. To be fair, it is over 100 years old and I would wear this if bought some but I think Trumpers make some equally distinguished colognes that have a better balance and come across more timeless. (eg Wellington).
Another Trumper dry chypre (like their Eucris and Astor). This begins with amber, drys down to sandalwood, then oakmoss and pine. It's not as harsh as Eucris and slightly sweeter than Astor. I'm not crazy about chypres. I find them the most unpleasant of categories in scentland, but this one is at least endurable.
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It's muggy and cloudy outside and that is not a good setting for a dry chypre such as Curzon. So I might just have to eat my words after retrying this on a cold autumn day. For what it's worth: no sweetness to talk of here for me, in fact, the citrus and lavender top is disappointingly muted and the florals also never really make a convincing appearance on stage. Everything is happening behind a musty curtain of arid herbacity dominated by what seems to me to be clove, flanked by mossy notes. Too conventional by contemporary standards, but then it dates from 1882, so one should concede it probably became so conventional by being consistently plagiarized. What's worse is that it never achieves a proper balance on my skin, which makes it mediocre for me, though I appreciate it's objective quality.
Trumper is reticent about revealing the fragrance pyramid of its scents. As others have noted, the company blurb simply says, “slightly spicy overtones add to a light chypre note.” So we might suspect a citrus opening, spices and herbal notes in the middle, and a mossy dry-down -- and that's what we have here.
Curzon has a lemon-lime opening: these are good citrus notes, realistic and persistent for citrus. The middle is intriguing. It starts with peppery spice. Then there is a very pleasant and bright aromatic note. One reviewer has suggested juniper (berry), and I like that idea. Perhaps here is even quinine here, giving a very British gin-and-tonic quality. Some reviewers have mentioned "bitter woods" and quinine could be contributing to a bracing, astringent quality. The mossy base emerges, with good quality moss and herbal sage notes, perhaps clary sage.
Very classy and attractive.
01st May, 2007 (last edited: 03rd October, 2014)
Pungent lavender top with some leather and moss in the background, liked it better on the first trial but find myself not caring for it as much at this time of review. Lavender-leather accord gives it a almost tar-like quality which I still enjoy, although different from my initial impression which was more of a lavender-citrus chypre, still nice by any standards. Lasts very well and highly masculine; may be too heavy for some.
I tried to find the notes pyramid for Curzon, but the only description that I could find was this official company line: "a light chypre note with slightly spicy overtones "
Curzon has a floral-citrus opening. It smells slightly sweet - perhaps its jasmine blending with bergamot or orange blossum. From there, very quickly, Curzon reveals its chypre side - I can smell some herbal mossy action going on in there. Perhaps its the use of juniper berries with oakmoss. Or maybe its cinnamon leaves. Whatever the composition is, it does smell quite manly. However, it doesnt scream out loud - rather, Curzon stays close to skin. Longevity was average - about 3 hours.
Curzon is a nice "manly" cologne with a floral-citrus top and a herbal chypre base. Its definitely not amazing, or even intriguing. What it is, though, is a nice formal mens cologne with that reliable Trumper quality.
Typically for Trumper, this is an unapologetically dry, classy, masculine fragrance. I wouldn't for a moment describe it as sweet! I see the resemblance to the brilliant Antaeus insofar as it has quite a strong herb character. But this is much more restrained and a bit less synthetic than Antaeus. Quite dark. Also, Trumper fragrances are excellent value. Recommended.
Nice, classy, masculine. Reminds me very much of Antaeus by Chanel. It's also similar to Trumper's Eucris, but a little sweeter and richer in the dry-down, better overall to this nose. In the end, I prefer Antaeus to either one, as it has a more distinctive smell throughout (especially in that wildly unique opening). I don't think I would buy a bottle of Curzon, but it's a quality scent, and so gets a thumbs-up.
this is just ok and nothing to write home about. spicy sweet number, with a bit of citrus to boot. wearable, but am positive that it smells identical to what an old maths teacher of mine used to wear hence i will not be buying or wearing again!
HEADY stuff! Wow! Pleasantly uncorked the the top of my head and sent it into the clouds. I could see how one could over-apply this, but my experience was very warm and pleasant. This is loaded with spice and sweetness. VERY nice for evening and romantic wear, I should think, but bordering on noxious or deadly in the office environment.