Curzon opens with a clean breezy lemon and lime accord which is herbal and soapy. It is light and never overpowers and projects nicely but it does not last for more then three to four hours on my skin.
This one is much more dryer than the other traditional GFT offerings (Wellington, Astor, Marlborough) and unlike the aforementioned ones this one has no real smokiness to it. There is a subtle lavender in the opening and some light sweetness, though nothing too sweet. At the heart the oakmoss takes over with force and you are left with a natural mossy fragrance. Longevity is very short and overall though nice, this one doesn’t do much for me.
Dry dry dry. Curzon, one of Trumper's original classic scents, is now only available in aftershave form, the cologne having been dropped properly from the cologne range last year (at which point Trumper themselves were claiming it was one of only four scents NOT to have been reformulated from its original incarnation - take that as you will). This is a review for the cologne version, 30 and 50ml bottles and testers of which can still be found in some indie chemists here in the UK. Curzon is like a more subdued Aramis Devin. Surprisingly for a 19th century traditional English frag, Curzon is neither sweet and powdery, nor is it in your face. Opens with some citrus and bitter woods and settles down to a mossy and leathery base, with some very dry herbs all the way through and a hint of patchouli way down at the back. It's the weakest of the "Classic 4" (the other three being Astor, Marlborough and Wellington) in several senses (scentses!) of the word - it has the least longevity and silage, it's the least complex and is the least nice. But it isn't bad and, if you like the idea of Devin but find it way too strong, then Curzon is perfect. It's a safe and conservative traditional frag which is unlikely to offend anyone.
Not bad but nothing to write home about either. Curzon is for the Victorian dandy in you - it's a heady floral masculine with a very strong oakmoss base, which I would assume makes this a chypre. A big, powdery English Lavender note segues into mildly spicy notes and what smells like pine, which is a nice touch but doesn't last long. The drydown is mainly oakmoss with some slightly peppery spice notes. I'm not crazy about the way the oakmoss drydown smells; it smells soggy and musty.
Overall, Curzon is just okay, with nothing that really stands out, other than its initial floral headiness and the dour, dreary oakmoss base. It smells very much like a cruder Cerruti 1881, without any of 1881's sparkle or cheerfulness. It smells like it came from the "Dandified Fragrances" recipe book and was thrown together in a rush. I expect better quality from G.F. Trumper than this.
MY RATING: 5.5/10
03rd May, 2010 (last edited: 11th May, 2010)
Bergamot, Oakmoss, French Labdanum, Patchouli and Spices.
This is quite interesting, although I must admit immediately that I am not interested in buying an actual bottle of this. No, its not THAT interesting and my sample vial will do very nicely with this one.
Curzon starts off smelling like some vintage, dated bitter leather chypre with oily structure. There is a huge doze of oakmoss in this scent.
Drydown reveals fairly complex developments and changes, and eventually I am able to relate this even to Palais Jamais by Etro. (Although I like PJ much more as it is more natural with much more timeless and versatile feel to it)
Btw, I am surprised to see not pine wood lacking from the list of notes. At least I imagine I can smell something very pine-y in this blend.
Curzon is a classical woody chypre fragrance heavy on oakmoss. Very easy too detect that vintage-like, overripe bergamot note too that flows all the way from the top to the bottom.
Curzon is bitter-green and to my mind hopelessly dated. It smells very natural in way mixed forest smells when its thick and dry growth is seeking desperately some rescuing rain showers after some long bone-dry season.
There are much better and more vital fragrances of this kind available.
A very 'classic' cologne that is the epitome of the Trumpers line but for me, this smells a little dated. To be fair, it is over 100 years old and I would wear this if bought some but I think Trumpers make some equally distinguished colognes that have a better balance and come across more timeless. (eg Wellington).
Another Trumper dry chypre (like their Eucris and Astor). This begins with amber, drys down to sandalwood, then oakmoss and pine. It's not as harsh as Eucris and slightly sweeter than Astor. I'm not crazy about chypres. I find them the most unpleasant of categories in scentland, but this one is at least endurable.
It's muggy and cloudy outside and that is not a good setting for a dry chypre such as Curzon. So I might just have to eat my words after retrying this on a cold autumn day. For what it's worth: no sweetness to talk of here for me, in fact, the citrus and lavender top is disappointingly muted and the florals also never really make a convincing appearance on stage. Everything is happening behind a musty curtain of arid herbacity dominated by what seems to me to be clove, flanked by mossy notes. Too conventional by contemporary standards, but then it dates from 1882, so one should concede it probably became so conventional by being consistently plagiarized. What's worse is that it never achieves a proper balance on my skin, which makes it mediocre for me, though I appreciate it's objective quality.
I tried to find the notes pyramid for Curzon, but the only description that I could find was this official company line: "a light chypre note with slightly spicy overtones "
Curzon has a floral-citrus opening. It smells slightly sweet - perhaps its jasmine blending with bergamot or orange blossum. From there, very quickly, Curzon reveals its chypre side - I can smell some herbal mossy action going on in there. Perhaps its the use of juniper berries with oakmoss. Or maybe its cinnamon leaves. Whatever the composition is, it does smell quite manly. However, it doesnt scream out loud - rather, Curzon stays close to skin. Longevity was average - about 3 hours.
Curzon is a nice "manly" cologne with a floral-citrus top and a herbal chypre base. Its definitely not amazing, or even intriguing. What it is, though, is a nice formal mens cologne with that reliable Trumper quality.
this is just ok and nothing to write home about. spicy sweet number, with a bit of citrus to boot. wearable, but am positive that it smells identical to what an old maths teacher of mine used to wear hence i will not be buying or wearing again!