Eau de Guerlain bursts out with a bright éclat of citrus and then transitions into a light EdT.
After the initial excitement of the citrus calms down the atmosphere becomes one of decorous restraint. But even if the feeling is rather conventional, the structure of this cologne is not ordinary at all.
Jean-Paul Guerlain wasn't trying to create something new however, he was attempting to conserve, for as long as possible, the fleeting effect of the cologne formula. He takes a similar approach to that of Acqua di Parma's Colonia (1916); but where they boost the heart accord right up with rose, he uses the fixative action of EdT base accords, including the trademark Guerlainade, to extend the cologne structure in a different direction.
In EdG the emphasis is very much on the opening, and then it runs straight down to the warm base at the expense of any distinct middle phase. The effect of this is to make EdG technically heartless. Not quite the void displayed by the much admired Jicky - which contains no heart notes at all, but the similarity is there, and I believe his grandfather's masterpiece may have influenced Jean-Paul when he composed this.
The transition from extrovert citrus to musky amber base with occluded neroli makes EdG coherent - its a managed decline rather than change of direction, but the price for this is the muted feeling the profile has for much of its life.
After the citrus hit (and on exposed skin this really is fleeting,) Eau de Guerlain doesn't really shine. What you get is musk, amber and sandal, with a neroli overlay and a touch of moss; the whole of which which seems to go against the spirit of a citrus cologne.
22nd June, 2016 (last edited: 22nd July, 2016)
fresh,light but to much citrus , too crispy and too harsh and herbal-after 5 minutes i go nuts because it feels unbearable-eau sauvage by dior is definitely better or eau imperiale by guerlain-not so intense and not so much citrus!
28th January, 2007 (last edited: 02nd June, 2011)