Reviews

Reviews of Iris Bleu Gris by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

bokaba Show all reviews
United States
Interesting cold, dry, herbal iris root opening. The opening, while fleeting, is probably the best part. The middle and base are dominated by a generalized "aftershave" style chypre feel with a bit of the doughy iris persisting. IBG has a good iris opening and is more rounded scent than say Iris Silver Mist, but not nearly as interesting.
10th December, 2014
Iris Bleu Gris is a marvelous, austere, icy herbal-iris scent, with a sour minty-citric hint blended with a warm base rich in iris' waxy and opulent rootiness. Fresh, metallic (perhaps a tad too much initially), warm and sensual at the same time. On the base there is also something musky-earthy, I guess oak moss, and slightly dusty and camphoraceous, perhaps benzoin or something equally belonging to '80s chypres realm. The clash between the angular, sour, zesty and even slightly ozonic head notes with the rooty heartiness of iris and woods is masterfully executed and really fascinating, even if a bit loud at its first stages, mostly due to citrus - challenging, but fascinating. As soon as it dries a bit it gets darker, coming closer to several '70s/'80s drydowns (I recalled the architectural gloominess of some Krizia's for instance, just with less leather). Except for a really few notes which reveal its age, Iris Bleu Gris has an irresistibly austere, elegant, grey presence – I don't get the "bleu" that much, but surely the "iris" and the "gris" are perfectly crafted. The iris is "all over" in a way that it makes everything smell warmer and gentler, even giving a touch of soap and powder to the rooty and mossy notes. Even if I keep smelling something "weird" all around (I guess that same citric-azure note of the beginning, which then morphs into some metallic dissonant feel that comes and goes), the texture is really intriguing, majestic and elusive, complex and classy. A must try!

8/10
14th September, 2014
Genre: Chypre

It’s taken me a long time to come to terms with iris, so I was slow to appreciate Iris Bleu Gris. Now, after having sampled great many iris scents, I’ve come to esteem it as one of the two or three finest iris scents I know, as well as my personal favorite.

If you've ever wondered what it would be like to be bludgeoned with a monster iris root, here it is. The iris in Iris Bleu Gris is so real, immediate, and potent that it seems like an hallucination. Definitely a whole-body experience. If orris root is your thing, you're going to love it!

The top notes are harsh and discordant, with bitter greens and sharp black currant buds. It takes roughly fifteen minutes for Iris Bleu Gris to establish refined, yet austere iris, labdanum, and moss heart accord. In contrast to Dior Homme, this accord is not sweetened by much fruit of vanilla. Once it does, Iris Bleu Gris marches on in linear fashion for a long time. The iris accord here is rooty and earthy, yet paradoxically suave. It sounds like an oxymoron, but it smells very impressive. When the drydown does come, it reveals light leather, vetiver, and residual moss.

The scent projects quite well, but you will not leave clouds of sillage in you wake when wearing it. Like some other scents from this house Iris Bleu Gris is probably a love-it-or-hate it fragrance, but it’s also the most honest, focused interpretation of the iris note that I have come across.
17th June, 2014
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Great treatment of iris root. It's there at all times; in the green soapy topnotes; in the rootlike yet powery heart; in the dry double root base of iris and vetiver.

We tend to compare iris fragrances. The scent of iris root and the aromachemicals used to recreate it comprise such a particular yet complex set of notes that comparison is almost inevitable. Dior Homme, Chanel 19, Iris Silver Mist, Ferre by Gianfranco Ferre. Yup. The most directly comparaable perfume, though is the wonderful and underestimated Bas de Soie from Serge Lutens. Iris Bleu Gris doesn't have Bas de Soie's metal cum hyacynth notes, but otherwise the heart and base, and the trajectories they follow are very close.

We speak as if Dior Homme created the first masculine iris. Jean Laporte thought to release an iris-centered fragrance in the early 1980s and it's still with us 30 years later.
25th June, 2012
I've mixed feeling on Iris Bleu Gris! While I'm totally fascinated by its opening I get somehow disappointed in the drydown.

Iris Blue Gris opens with a blast of hyper-realistic and earthy iris root joined by bitter and "wet" green notes. Outstanding, magistral and even challenging for it's extreme bitterness. It turns then to a more conventional, yet absolutely compelling middle phase where iris plays its main part. What disappoints me is the bitter green aspect of the opening that in this phase has morphed to a soapy "cleanness" softening the initial austerity. Gentle, suave and well refined (too much for my taste), but after the promising opening it leaves me somewhat unsatisfied.

Overall this is a very good fragrance highly recommended to anyone who loves iris root but also to the ones of you who simply want to releate with a master composition.

I give it a "thumbs up" on an objective basis.
29th May, 2011
Hauntingly strange and beautifully odd. Sharp ,high pitched- bitter lemon and green -strange beginning that is weirdly elegant .Dry iris, cold - smells gray blue to my mind's eye.
Cold dry iris plus rooty, earthy, mossy ,musky, incensey notes to sum up. Very compelling .Rich in scent though quite cold of character. A scent of contrast and a work of art. I love this. Uinsex- the man or woman who chooses this is supremely independent, elegant and chic . They need no other reassurance other than what comes from within.
15th July, 2010
I have and love Hiris by Hermes, so I wanted to try more iris, and based on the reviews (mistake!) I bought this one.
Ugghhh!
I don't understand how it can be described a gritty, earthy, austere. I guess my nose misses something, and probably I'm not sophisticated enough, but to me it smells artificial, powdery, cloying, perfumey - in short, all I dislike in a perfume.
Compared to it, Hiris shines even more: it's sober, bracing, fresh, elegant, subtle.
To me, Iris Bleu Gris is perfume an old lady of not particularly refined taste could wear.
29th May, 2010
Very bitter green opening settles down soon for a terrific, aromatic composition.

Iris is very smoothly blended here; it has a creamy and subtle scent here. In fact, I wouldn’t say this is exactly a “iris scent” because it isn’t that prominent at all ( like no other note either).

IBG is just perfectly balanced story of that iris root, vanilla, moss and musk. It smells very vintage without having any dated tone to it.
Earthy and ever so slightly soapy fragrance which, to me, smells very ethereal and dreamy, like the colour of blue and grey indeed.

This would make a fantastic masculine companion to L'Heure Bleue by Guerlain.

Highly recommended even if you are not a biggest fan of iris (just like me).
30th July, 2009
I wanted to love this, not only because I'm a big iris fan but because I found a big bottle on discount. Alas. While the drydown is nice, there is a sour, soupy undertone that nauseated me a little. In reading reviews of of MP et G fragrances, I gather that they tend to have a more raw, natural quality. This may be the problem. Or, I may not yet be sophisticated enough to appreciate these perfumes. This one will have to wait.
29th March, 2009
zztopp: Ditto

In three words: refined, exquisite, marvelous
09th January, 2009
JaimeB Show all reviews
United States
A bit sweet, a bit powdery, but not too much of either. Others have mentioned that the drydown is awesome, as it indeed is. Personally, I don't find the opening at all taxing to my nose. I enjoy the whole journey. It is a bit dressier than some others, but nothing you couldn't wear on a day off for a little excusion to someplace nice and fun. This may be elegant, but it's far from stodgy!
08th August, 2008
Grey Flannel in a tuxedo, liberally sprinkled with orris root.

Good juice!
16th October, 2007
Could have fooled me...I didn't realize this scent was specified as 'masculine' until now! Comes off a little sweet, I interpret it to be more unisex. ZZTOP's commentary is oh so true ~ and I also detect a leather like note. Possibly the dry moss lending a smokey edge to the base. The top notes are vibrant and herbaceaous, lingering only long enough to direct your attention to the smooth drydown. A quite nicely done fragrance, I might actually wear it for myself!
08th March, 2007
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TV Lampboy’s reference to Grey Flannel is right on. The iris note in Iris Bleu Gris smells powerfully violet leaf to me. I am oversensitive to violet leaf when it comes across as strongly as this – it smells horribly synthetic and obnoxious to me. Once the violet leaf note wears off, Iris Blue Gris is a smooth, sophisticated, masculine, iris / light woody / mossy / musky / powdery fragrance – a bit edgy, a bit formal – but for me it isn’t worth the journey to get to the excellent, long-lasting, unique drydown.
09th December, 2006 (last edited: 07th June, 2011)
zztopp Show all reviews
United States
Notes:

Top Notes: Leafy green, lemon, bergamot
Middle Notes: Iris absolute, vanilla, jasmine
Base Notes: Moss, vetiver, musk.

Let me start off by saying that if you love Iris, you will love this. And even if you dont, this great MPG offering warrants investigation. The fragrance lures the casual fragrance fan with its green, subdued lemony opening. The middle notes smell sweet for about a minute or so, before one of the most accurate renditions of the iris root reveals itself - the exquisit root then further blends with the base of vetiver, musk and a hint of leather. I think its impressive how MPG have created an iris absolute based fragrance which not only caters to iris lovers, but to any casual fragrance user as well. The longevity is decent (not at the level of Santal Noble). This is definitely one of the stars of the house of MPG !
27th August, 2006
Paul G Show all reviews
United States
If you like iris, you'll love it. If you don't, you won't. Floral to a fault and turned rancid on me. It has very good lasting power and has a lot going on, but not something I could wear at all.
21st April, 2006
A very underated MPG. The iris root here smells more raw than the one in Dior Homme, and it's mixed in with florals and woody dry down. Not for everyone but if you like florals this is a good choice.
07th November, 2005
Iris Bleu Gris is a rich, edgy, and sweet iris interpretation. It’s got a very woody and slightly sweet base. This does not smell like a fragrance dominated by floral notes. Rather, Iris Bleu Gris comes off as a very woody fragrance with Iris nuances throughout. Very true to the MPG style; well balanced, and very elegant.
18th September, 2005
This is a wonderful and compex floral. It may be too feminine for me. My wife did think it I purchased it for her. It begins with very high sweet florals, and then darkens although still very much a floral. It makes me feel pleasant and upbeat. I wear it for special events in a suit.
22nd October, 2004