Aromatic leather chypre
Making its artemisia and Indian joss stick debut with a powdery note to add a bit of lightness, Léonard pour Homme then develops as a full bodied herbal citrus fougère with a tint of white florals.
The keynote of clove and the leather chypre base give it the brown corderoy feel of the seventies even though it was released in 1980 after the advent of Punk Rock and Mrs Thatcher.
22nd April, 2015 (last edited: 08th July, 2015)
One of the great 1980s Fougères
A sharp and smoky blast of bergamot, lavender and petitgrain explodes in my face, with an oily character. Basil and thyme add a fiery herbal-vegetal note that is enforced in the drydown by the addition patchouli, jasmine and and unusual carrot-twist. Very early in the drydown a harsh, classic oak moss of supreme quality starts to dominate and does so until the end. Nonetheless the development continues with castoreum and labdanum merging into a dark leathery note. And the oakmoss continues it's marvelous work as the backbone throughout. This is a classic, traditional, harsh, sharp, strong and confident chypre of the highest quality, complex in composition but linear in it's core character; an archetypical fougère, less shrill and bright than Gucci Nobile with darker notes in the mellowed base. It is made for autumn. Silage and projection: excellent. Longevity: it fades out - after fifteen hours on my skin - just splendid!
Pros: Silage and longevity
Leonard pour Homme goes on with a dash of bergamot and cinnamon that soon couples with leather and oakmoss in the early heart of the scent. The soft suede-like leather and green oakmoss tandem takes over as the scent develops, now joined by herbal clary sage that has an almost aromatic lavender quality, spiked with perhaps a small amount of clove spice to darken the scent just a tad as its development progresses. During the late dry-down the oakmoss recedes to reveal benzoin that slightly sweetens the remnants of the leather as violet leaf adds a fine powdery sheen to the finish. Projection is above average and longevity is average to slightly above average at 8-9 hours on skin.
The discontinued leather chypre Leonard pour Homme in its smoky brown bottle (not to be confused with the much later and completely different smelling release from the house still in production, Leonard Homme) is a great rarely heard of treasure. Unlike many of its peers of the early 80s, it does not join the powerhouse category but is rather tame by comparison. Its soft suede leather facets coupled with green oakmoss, aromatic clary sage and the slightly powdery violet leaf late are just the perfect mesh for such a distinguished scent that can be worn anywhere and anytime with pride. It is really a shame this great composition by Winnegrade does not get more attention because it really is one of the best releases of its time. As previously mentioned Leonard pour Homme has long since been discontinued but 100ml bottles are still relatively easy to find on the aftermarket for $50 or less which is an outright steal for a 4 star out of 5 excellent smelling fragrance of this quality. My advice is buy while you can before sellers come to their senses.
10th February, 2013 (last edited: 03rd March, 2013)
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I'm so lucky to find around my wonderful Italy so many secret vintage shops full of many of these pearls in the background. Leonard Pour Homme is really close to V&A Pour Homme, just a bit brighter, less angular (yes more oily), equally leathery and more optimistic. Leonard introduces a more developed citrus/lavender opening (more bergamot/lavender than V&A Pour Homme and i suppose a touch of aldehydes), a fainter floral and herbal aromatic presence (marjoram and rosemary in particular are less heady), more incense and a barely more tamed castoreum/patchouli/oakmoss than V&A Pour Homme. I smells effectively some olfactory resemblance also with Paco Rabanne Pour Homme (the barber-shop honeyed/mossy soapiness), Francesco Smalto, Arrogance Pour Homme Original (in particular this one is the fragrance that more smells close to Leonard Pour Homme), Oscar Pour Lui and some others. As well as already specified this fragrance is a sheer leathery chypre with some herbal/aromatic elements conjuring the powerhouse classic structure. After the initial citrus/herbal opening (soon effectively joined by the animalic leather and incense from the background) i detect a central cinnamon/orange, geranium/carnation and iris/jasmine agreament producing the main part of the fruity-floral aroma. The dry down is leathery, mossy and soapy with a touch of animalic powder. I detect the woodsy oiliness, a sort of oily vetiver/balsams accord (flanking and pairing the animalic/incensey leather) some talk about and in this sense i smell a brighter (or better more fluidy/boise) composition than the classic V&A Pour Homme. Another epitome of discreet class and conservative elegance for disappeared gentlemen.
“Strong, dark and brooding” are the words a certain sage used to describe this scent. Leonard pour Homme is an exemplar of 80s scents – scents of a period when disco was king, when Christmas was called by its proper name, when letters were still the main medium of communication and the acronym “IFRA” would have been thought to be for a lethal exotic virus or neuro-toxin.
Leonard pour Homme, leather chypre par excellence, introduces itself with spicy olfactory fanfare – basil and thyme prominent in the fore. When the lovely screeching recedes a bit, wormwood/artemisia attains prominence. Smokiness also emerges, i guess, from patchouli and cedar oil among other ingredients of the frag. Perhaps because I live in the tropics and naturally exposed to direct heat sometimes, it is not long into the wearing that the animalic castoreum and leather ingredients ascend into my conciousness. Resinous labdanum sings in harmony with the smoke-sodden leatheriness to deliver an accord that may be a bit scary to the Acqua di Gio crowd. There is not a smidgen of sweetness in this frag. Baroque pipe organ music and the eerie sound of ghosts and crazed bats seem to be the appropriate sound track for LpH.
LpH is similar to Van Cleef and Arpels pour Homme, but less flowery. It also reminds me of Francesco Smalto pour Homme, but is a bit more herbal and oily; Trussardi Uomo without the tobacco notes, or a more resinous Bel Ami. In all its darkness LpH is not a room-strafing powerhouse like Trussardi pH. Lph has mazing longevity. 9+ hours after applying I still get authoritative whiffs of leathery darkness.
I came upon this frag late, but with it in my wardrobe now the rest of my life will surely be fragrantly richer.
The Estonian site lists the following notes:
Top: Basil, bergamot, lavender, marjoram, petigrain oil, thyme.
Mid: Artemisia, carnation, carrot, cedar, cinnamon, jasmine, iris, patchouli, vetiver.
Base: Amber, castoreum, labdanum, leather, moss, musk.
For me, the lavender/herbal aspect is clear. and you get occasional wafts of leather. I have to try hard to avoid the top notes, which are very strong, so keep that in mind. I don't much wood, moss, or castoreum. It's a little "powdery," so I assume that's the iris. The floral elements are probably too blended to detect more than the lavender. It also seems to have a little amber softening it up, but don't expect much sweetness here. Nor is there much in the way of spice. It does seem to have a little patchouli blended in, but the vetiver must be minimal. If you want a bitter leather, I suggest Francesco Smalto. This one is closer to Oscar Pour Lui or VC&A Pour Homme, but this one is blended better (I've only tried the new VC&A PH and I think that one is clearly inferior to the others). Longevity is quite good but with fair "sillage"/projection at best. One thing that's good is that it never goes into that "soapy lavender" area that so many of these "80s power frags" do. The only criticism I have is that I'd like to smell more of the notes listed clearly, but that's my preference, and I consider it a minor flaw, though of course the perfumer may have been trying to create this kind of smooth fragrance.
27th June, 2010 (last edited: 07th February, 2011)
A misleading opening that makes you think what it finally is not: a sillage / longevity beast much akin to Van Cleef & Arpels pour homme (VC&A) or any of the leather scents in use during the 1950's.
Leonard pour Homme is, thus, a baffling individual. It makes a grand debut but he does not keep up to this initial appereance. Maybe pressed by the fashion of the times it was launched, the presence of flowers and leather makes you think he must be a relative to VC&ApH.
But it looks like he could not keep on with this farce, so he gets rid of these frills and settles into very subtle, delicate floral notes, in such a traditional way it makes one recall so called "gentlemany scents". Wearing this makes you think he did not feel comfortable with fashion at all.
a truly wonderful leathery chypre.in my opinion similar to patou pour homme,with a dash of halston z-14.leonard p.h. used to be one of my favourite frags. sadly it is almost impossible to find now.van gils VGV,is also similar,but not as dry- leathery.
Citrus and leather chypre and there's no doubt about it. It's not a powerhouse in my opinion. In fact, it's fantastic and still in the style of those 80's powerhouse. Love the sandalwood drydown and the herbal middile but is very short. Very nice though.
Very nice 80`s leathery chypre. Very hard to find healthy bottles from anywhere these days.
A big spicy herbaceous thing going on in the beginning. Thyme, Marjoram, Basil....
In the heart of Leonard, there is a wonderful vegetal thing going on, with carrot seed oil, Orris, Patchouli, Vetiver, Carnation....Very earthy, vegetal heart indeed.
The base ifs full of darkness, insence smoke lingering through the leathers and mosses.....
...And of course it's discontinued. Not always shorthand for quality, but definitely true in this case.
Well, I should be grateful I had the opportunity and sniff and wear this wonderful stuff. Spicy, mossy, leafy (the autumnal analogies are dead-on), rooty and yes, even a bit of dirt and rot clinging to the edges. Nonetheless smooth and make-no-mistake masculine to boot. All the more melancholy to my nose now that it's no longer with us.
Glad I got to finally know this one, however late I was to the party. I fully intend to make this little bottle last.
To my nose, Léonard pour Homme is identical to Van Cleef & Arpels, so if you can't find the Léonard, give a try to VC&A!
An intriguing fragrance, Leonard Pour Homme opens with the complexity of citrus and herbs, which are already joined by the incense, leather, and castoreum rising up from the base. The leathery, dark, rich notes create a pensiveness and (yes!) melancholy that is palpable. The spicy / floral middle offers little change from the darkness because it, too, is shadowed by the leather and incense. Dark it is and dark it remains from the top, through the mid, and into the base. I can appreciate the prevalence of oily murkiness in this scent, but, I think this is a case where a little more planning should have been done: By the time the base is supposed to join the movement, the basenotes are already depleted, resulting in a short-lived fragrance. This is one of the few strongly leather scents that I can tolerate, so it’s a special disappointment to me that it is so short lived. But while it lasts, Leonard Pour Homme is mystic and lovely.
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Truly a poem. I nearly developed a clinical compulsive-sniffing condition when I got this -- but then the postman brought Jules...
A perennial favorite when I was in college, although -- looking back -- the fragrance may have been a bit "old" for me. (This is one of those that probably oughtn't be ventured by those under 35 -- it's pretty mature.) Very boozy, very rich, very formal, very deep, with great sillage and a lovely drydown. Lasts on me for HOURS.
A somewhat melancholy autumn scent. Softly burning leaves carried on the breeze. Deep, brown and distinguished. Wonderful! (de Charlus)
13th November, 2004 (last edited: 18th July, 2005)