Perfume Reviews

Reviews of Moustache by Rochas

Total Reviews: 42
It smells like a modern salon, with the typical dash of coconut. Borderline thumbs down - the hairdresser vibe is overplayed. Remainder of the sample to be binned.
15th November, 2017
Vintage 1980's EDC.
Beautiful opening burst of Citrus with pointed Basil rather than that of Rosemary (Eau Sauvage)
Quickly moves to the extraordinary Florals which have been honeyed urinous. It winds back to the Liquorice of Basil.
The buttery Oakmoss volumes the whole mix and creates an Eau Sauvage heart heavier, dirtier and bordering powder.
A little darker than the ES and
YSL reintroduced this dirtiness in the 70's with Pour Homme with it's Thyme, Vetiver with a touch of honey piss surrounded by Citrus.
Wonderful to taste the "Original"
Dirty Citrus.

21st June, 2017
I've always enjoyed wearing Moustache by Rochas. It's light but fizzy. Nostalgic yet minimalistically modern. I'm sure that the Roudnitska's have added aldehydes, since it sparkles brilliantly and tickles the senses. Mutated fruits, mild citrus, underlining moss, touch of pine. Goes great as a sporty outdoor casual fragrance. Not appreciated by everyone, but perhaps admired more by the barbershop genre. Prelude to Roudnitska's masterpiece Eau Sauvage.....
07th February, 2017
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Take it away immediately! I can't take it anymore. Most definitely the most powdery men's fragrance I've ever smelled. A gigantic, bitter cloud of citrus, moss and vanilla. I'm talking about the vintage version too. Would've been great in the 1800's but it's 2016 and I can't wear this nor can I imagine anyone else.

30th March, 2016
After reading all good reviews on Moustache I had the opportunity to buy the old and original bottle (old fashion with the golden cap and lalique style)

I thougth it would be in the same veine as Ysl pour homme or Signoricci. How disapointed I was. This is awful, it's like urine mixed with fecal ingredients! A nuclear attack that blows your nose and head.

Maybe the juice turns off.

Disaster old school! 1/10
15th August, 2015
drseid Show all reviews
United States
*This is a review of vintage Moustache Eau de Cologne.

Moustache (vintage) opens with an aromatic lavender and basil spiked bergamot and lemon citrus starring tandem, with heavy musk laden oakmoss rising from the base in support. Moving to the early heart the basil folds into the remaining aromatic lavender which takes on a co-starring role alongside the powerful musky oakmoss with slightly dulled carnation floral support. During the late dry-down the the composition smooths out, as the herbal aspects vacate, leaving slightly powdery, relatively dry vanilla joining faint traces of underlying natural smelling cedar and the remnants of the heavily diminished but still detectable oakmoss through the finish. Projection is average and longevity is on the low side of average to slightly below average at about 6-7 hours on skin.

Moustache (vintage) goes right for the knockout punch on application, as the basil and musky oakmoss (similar smelling to the stuff used in the much later released Success by MCM) really pack a punch when coupled with the aromatic lavender and citrus. The composition really comes into its own though in the key mid-section, as the basil that is so aggressive at the open, literally melds into the lavender carnation and musky oakmoss perfectly. The effect is very old-school traditional (translation: superb) and rather sophisticated. If there is any relative weakness it would have to be the late dry-down, as compared to the powerful herb-spiked lavender and musky oakmoss assault, the gentle vanilla led finish seems a bit anti-climactic. That said, even the late dry-down is very skillfully handled by the great Roudnitskas. As an aside, I don't think it is any secret that I am a huge oakmoss fan and Moustache (vintage) definitely is loaded with tons of the stuff, enough to satisfy anyone who craves the ingredient. Quite frankly, while I have never smelled the current formulation, it is quite clear it could never include the ingredient at anywhere near similar levels (so good or bad, it definitely is going to smell quite different). The bottom line is the approximately $40 per 105ml bottle on the aftermarket Moustache (vintage) EdC may be a bit elusive to track down nowadays, but you are heavily rewarded with a tremendous "excellent" 4 star out of 5 rated Roudnitska husband and wife composition that will particularly appeal to old-school classical perfume lovers that crave oakmoss as much as I.
12th July, 2015
Vintage Rochas Moustache starts by soon as an appalling giant.....stormy (dry spicy), "cologney", rooty, humid, woody (in a bitter-sugary way) and "cloudy". You can feel by soon that the scent is a classy articulated aldehydic-hesperidic-animalic-mossy chypre (a la Monsieur Rochas, Arrogance Pour Homme, Dunhill or Balenciaga Portos) and frankly I see by soon the juxtaposition between the "boisterous" spicy-aldehydic-hesperidic-herbal opening (really messy and almost discouraging) and a smoother yet upcoming (by soon rising from the background) mossy-woody-leathery-resinous accord enriched by (effectively) viney-uriney (Vero Profumo Onda-like) animalic undertones (mostly ambergris, musk and honey). At the beginning, apart the lavender-bergamot-oakmoss-wild vetiver spicy/aldehydic accord you can catch by soon a stark dry "bitter licorice/roots/burnt sugar like" woodiness (a la Etro Sandalo) and a dry tobacco contextual presence. Bergamot is almost fizzy medicinal and green vegetal while an animalic honey-ambergris-musk-leather accord starts rising up in effect surrounded and preceded by nutmeg, ginger, coriander and may be cumin. Frankly I don't catch the civet while in my opinion the uriney vibe we can feel by soon on skin is the effect aroused by an accord of leather, honey, rose, dirty musk, woodsy resins, hesperides and spices (mace and cumin in particular). The rose-geranium-carnation accord is incredibly sharp and lymphatic, cedarwood is quite astringent while the leather-oakmoss agreement is by soon shadowy, honeyed, ambery (powdery animalic ambergris), laundry-soapy, herbal, orangy-lemony, bitter-rooty, vaguely fizzy and finally talky. In the final stage the note of jasmine keeps emerging (increasing the honeyed vibe) from the depth of a dry woody and powdery ambergris talc (with more than vague Helmut Lang Cologne's nuances but in a less properly talky and a far more severe woody-bitter-burnt sugary-fruity way). In this phase the aroma is finally smoother (a touch of vanilla soothens the elements), warm, musky, visceral, powdery, sharply fruity (dried fruits) and lemon-jasmine-carnation veined. Moustache is one of the classiest examples of animalic mossy-powdery chypres of the worldwide history of perfumery, a fragrance really commanding (may be forbidding for a part of its run) but at same time (endly) intimate, sexy and reassuring. The cute vintage bottle is to die for. A classic of perfumery unfortunately hard to find but still on the edge if you are lucky to retrieve a vintage piece.
P.S= along the dry down I feel more prominent (i mean..rising up) the note of suede.
01st December, 2014 (last edited: 07th January, 2015)
My review is based on the original vintage EDT version of this scent, which opens with a powerful, almost rusty (aldehydes) oak moss balsamic accord, blended with pungent, tasty herbs and spices, light citrus notes, perhaps also leather or dry tobacco. The opening is really dark and dusty, slightly metallic too, carrying a stout nostalgic and austere feel with a bold "urinous" civet note, which blends with an emerging accord of classic chypre masculine flowers (humid, shady notes of rose, carnation, lavender). As the flowers emerge, the scent evolves on a shady dark rose chypre wrapped in the same initial mossy-earthy, herbal-spicy and leathery notes, with musky skanky notes and a bright herbal-citrus breeze, slightly balsamic too. Oriental (some notes slightly remind me of Phileas), but also quite Western it its "restrained" elegance. In fact, overall there is nothing "raw" or "sensual", despite the animalic musky notes, it's rather a really restrained, austere, solid and noble scent, which kind of fits the era it was born – the late '40s. It carries a nondescript "grey", slightly humid feel which I can not describe better, but it feels like touching a, say, vintage 120s wool Prince of Wales piece of cloth, if that makes sense. Not that friendly and not for everyone, but undoubtedly charming it its nostalgic, monolithic gloominess.

08th July, 2014
Genre: Chypre

Moustache starts off peppery and aromatic, with what I’m rather certain is a touch of civet lurking in the background. This is a much drier opening than many contemporary men’s scents, and it leaves me wondering where Moustache will go next. It eventually goes down a vanillic, mossy, aromatic, path that leads to a fougère-like heart accord, but it explores a few clever side roads and detours along its way. Though subtle and extremely well blended, the animalic musks apparent at the start lend Moustache a half hidden sense of danger. This well-groomed gentleman still has hormones, still sweats, and still lusts beneath his proper suit and trench coat.

While Moustache exhibits far less animal abandon than say, Jicky, it is by no means neutered. Along with the quiet mammalian funk there is a hard-to-define tangy note. Perhaps it is the “rare fruit” in the scent pyramid, perhaps something else. Whatever it is, it persists through the drydown, coloring what might otherwise have been a conventional base with an oddly compelling sour tinge. What Roudnitska has done with this fragrance foreshadows the approach he used in Eau Sauvage: begin with a traditional formula, then add a subtle, yet unexpected little fillip to give his fragrance a distinct signature. In the case of Eau Sauvage it was an Eau de Cologne formula spiked with hedione. In Moustache it was a classic chypre seasoned with exotic fruit and vaguely lascivious glandular extractions. While neither scent seems novel in today’s fragrance market, both represent a kind of balanced, yet not bland composition that’s grown very rare among today’s designer offerings.
19th June, 2014
Ooh, like suede! As someone with almost no experience with men's fragrances or vintage ones, this just seems really appealing and sophisticated. It doesn't come across as dated at all to me, but nicely aromatic and herbal, I also like the lightly floral sweetness of the lemon verbana and honey (which isn't syrupy here). I don't find this at all animalic or urinous, but just very inviting and fresh. I feel like FM could release this with a different name, like Suede de Florence for example, and it would be a huge hit again. Would be great in spring/summer, (or fall in temperate climates) It seems really smoothly blended, I've never smelt anything like it, highly recommend!
29th March, 2014
Daring and timeless. It is an untamed Eau Sauvage.

I picture the dashing Graham Hill wearing this as he straps himself into his Lotus 49.

28th February, 2014
One of the most unique citrus scents ever created. The scent of oranges, lemons and limes going sour, but not quite to the point of unpleasantness, make this very French in its slightly "dirty" freshness.

Totally wonderful, quite deep for a citrus, and long lasting on me. A true classic.

Note: Dior copied this in 1971 and called it Diorella.
29th January, 2014
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom
A Citrus-Fougère
From a vintage sample:
The lime and bergamot make a fresh opening that is further enhanced by a light vetiver addition. The drydown becomes floral, and just after having judges this to be a citrus-based scent a nice, quite light oakmoss breaks through, which in combination with a wood note forms a chypre-type base note. Good quality ingredients are used, and for the first hour it shows good silage and projection on me. The complete longevity is over three hours, with the second half very close to my skin. A classic.
10th July, 2013 (last edited: 18th March, 2014)
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Gary F Show all reviews
United States
A Bit Musty

There is a musty note in the first couple of hours into wearing this that I don't care for, but this is quite nice once that disappears. The price is great, so well worth a try. Just didn't quite make the cut for a FB for me.

Pros: Develops in an interesting way
Cons: A Bit Musty

23rd June, 2013
Marais Show all reviews
United Kingdom
In general I like classic French masculines of this ilk. However, this particular combination of honey, civet, citrus and musk smells very urinous. It's a bit too realistic, on my skin anyway, for it to pass muster as an enjoyable fragrance. I think the honey tips it over the edge, from 'old-fashioned' to just 'old'. Bah.
26th February, 2013
Moustache by Rochas has a lot of historical significance, being the first proper masculine made by both Rochas and it's perfumer, Edmond Roudnitska. Mr. Roudnitska designed this in conjunction with his wife Theresa, and this is the only masculine she ever touched, and indeed only perfume period she ever had a hand in, to my knowledge. Edmond Roudnitska would follow this up directly with Eau Sauvage, made by him for Christian Dior in 1966, another first masculine for a different designer which would go on to be a landmark creation. Obviously Eau Sauvage would withstand the test of time while this creation would gradually fall by the wayside, but that has more to do with the timeless qualities of the former and the very time-specific nature of the latter, which is very much mid-century dry citrus chypre. Folks in the know often call this the "original dirty citrus" as it was the first mainstream designer masculine to make heavy use of the civet/lemon dynamic, that when combined with a few other things (like dry lavender) comes across as a funky virile lime that reeks of "I wanna take you to bed". It's a dynamic that Givenchy, Chanel, Arden, Revlon, and even Avon would eventually explore in one capacity or another throughout the 50's and 60's, ending mostly with Yves Saint Laurent's debut ode to the style in 1971. It's a forgetten trope from a long-lost era that either scares or impresses in the modern age, but never for the reasons originally intended. Only Guerlain's Mouchoir de Monsieur (1904) was earlier in this style, with much of it's design based on the earlier Jicky (1887). Overall, you have to enjoy urinous accords to dig this, and if not, Monsieur Lanvin (1964) might be more your bag as it keeps the civet but adds florals in play of the pissy citrus.

Vintage Moustache opens with a huge blast of that civet and lemon note, before heading down into that complex heart of Carnation, Geranium, Honey, Jasmine, and Rose all mulled together in that urinous cacaphony of the opening. After a few minutes of sitting on skin, only zesty whiffs of that opening remain (which is good) and for the rest of the scent's life it becomes a dry, gentlemanly, and very buttoned-down chypre with that massive and hoary beast just barely contained under it's coattails. By the time Moustache reaches skin scent levels, it's become something like a sophisticated precursor to whatever they use to fragrance Safeguard deodorant soap (or the latter probably riffed off this), and I mean that in a good way. Long story short: this starts of very very dirty and transitions to something impeccably clean at the end, much in the same way Kouros by the aforementioned YSL does, but with a more animalic opening and way more notes between the scary opening yell and the squeaky-neat finish. It seemed to be the way men's fragrance was done in an age before heavy moss and rich spicy scents became the standard just a few decades after this released: bring it in screaming "I am a man" then pull it back gradually to "but I know how to treat a lady" at the end. It's the kind of structured but seductive nonsense fans of film noir protagonists fall in love with: that pencil-thin moustache, the greased-back hair, the stiff-as-a-board facial expression daintily holding the martini glass, and enough stripes on their suit to hide them against the wallpaper backdrop. Moustache creates this aesthetic at a time when it was most relevant, and succeeds at it 110%.

Modern fragrance users will either love this stuff for unabashed nostalgia (enter hipsters or historic-minded collectors), or completely loathe this stuff for it's piss-to-dried-herbs transition; the latter will never make it to the heart of the fragrance because they've been trained that a scent is the same start to finish (as most modern ones are now), so the point where this reaches maximum enjoyment will never be perceived first-person. This is definitely one you will want to spray on a good 10-15 minutes before going out, but it's also not something for the dating circuit or casual dining with friends. Moustache by Rochas is exactly what it intends to be: a late and last Art-Deco stab at the debonair "puttin' on the ritz" lifestyle that post-war men wanted to have, until rock and roll, fast cars, and disco clubs replaced their cocktail nights at the jazz lounge with something louder, heavier and sweeter, which is consequently where their fragrance would go too. Not this one however, and unlike the other "dirty citrus" masculines that drew inspiration from this, Moustache never lets up on that spit-shined stiffness. This stuff is the muscular frame of Mr. Hyde forced to wear the expensive threads of Dr. Jekyll, and unless that's for you, this one is better left in the history books. Personally, it's one of my favorites, but what does that say about me? Time to refill my gin and tonic boys. Hit me.
17th October, 2012 (last edited: 04th April, 2018)
I recently acquired a vintage bottle of Moustache and am quite impressed.
As others have stated and to my nose this is very close to Eau Sauvage and Chanel Pour Monsieur. Yet, I have found that this fragrance is priced way below those two fragrances, so why not give it a try?
Nice longevity and a classic!
26th May, 2012
Citrus, pine, civet, moss. I think I just need to say no to chypres from now on. I don't like you, chypres. I give up. Some say Rochas Moustache is reminiscent of Eau Sauvage and I can see this. Of course, I don't like Eau Sauvage, either. Too much civet, too old-fashioned (though if you want to evoke this era, there you go). I have my own strategies for smelling faintly of urine, thanks ever so, Rochas.

I suppose someone could pull it off with some attitude and possibly some layering, maybe the right kind of hat ...admittedly it smells better to me on paper.

It's not very strong or lasting on me and the drydown is quite tame, so there is a mercy.
17th July, 2011
horse pee and grapefruit, together at last!
17th June, 2011
Eau Sauvage, Chanel Pour Monsieur, YSL Pour Homme, Rochas Moustache. A "this is how we do it" version of the classic chypre enriched with a pine note, animalic hints (civet) on a slightly sweet base. Great.
21st May, 2011
I can see Moustache as related to Eau Sauvage, but it has a fruit rather than a flower at its heart. Its opening citrus is very lemony, but like Eau Sauvage, the beauty is when the fragrances has settled down. Then it's rich, but not heavy, complex, but organized, and manly without the clichés.

I mourn its demise, but more than that I mourn the demise of all the other derived products Rochas used to make from it: aftershave, balm, shaving soap (can you imagine the glory!), bath soap, deo, etc.

Like many men's classic, it's a fragrance that once turned into a way of life, so that a many would never worry about conflicting smells, and get a gold watch at the end of his 30-year tenure with the fragrance. Get it while you still can.
04th February, 2011
Moustache is nominally a masculine citrus, floral chypre. It falls into the same category as Chanel Pour Monsieur, Monsieur de Givenchy and even its own sibling Eau Sauvage. But something about the twists of its construction leaves a crisp dryness akin to Guerlain’s Vetiver. Moustache’s lime and peppery carnation give an astringency similar in tone to Vetiver’s licoricy-vetiver dryness.

All of Moustache’s elements play off its central strong chypre base. The dryness has a scrubbed and starched quality that stands out brilliantly against growling animalic undertones. It’s as if Moustache’s affable eau de cologne-like gentleman’s chypre hides a bit of a snarl. Like an ongoing dare. What’s marvelous is that this tension lasts through the entirely of the scent’s evolution.

There are through-lines to many of Edmond Roudnitska’s pieces (Eau d’Hermes, Eau Sauvage, Diorella) but I find that Moustache, an early work by Roudnistka and his wife Therese, shares a particular quality with one of his last pieces, Mario Valentino’s Ocean Rain. They both have and underpinning of that beautifully flat scent of a new rain hitting dry earth.
09th December, 2010 (last edited: 04th May, 2012)
6of1 Show all reviews
United States
Off-scenter has, more or less, nailed this one. It works on so many levels, but the main one is that I get to smell like 1949. Being that I was born in 1966, that is an amazing thing to me. So, this is really not so much of a great review as it is a bit a prose from a viewpoint of profound admiration. The citrus opening moves into the animalic heart and the rest is pointless to me. I love drydowns, but (for some reason) Moustache's drydown doesn't matter to me. The opening and the heart notes carry this one. Lovely stuff and highly recommended..
13th October, 2010
Moustache = PERFECTION. Have worn this gem off and on since the '70's and I think it is superior to many of the "classics" in its' catagory. Love the smooth transition and the aforementioned "funk" that lasts close to the skin for hours ( pretty special for a citrus based concoction!). In an earlier day this fragrance was available in edp. Can you imagine? Maybe it still is in France. Need to check as it would be very special indeed.
08th September, 2010 (last edited: 02nd May, 2015)
Ok fragrance, no staying power
26th July, 2010
Bigsly Show all reviews
United States
I received a vial sample from a fellow Bner in a swap as an "extra." I used a small dab to get a sense of it. I often do this to make sure it will not nauseate me if I were to apply it the way I usually do with my fragrances. It came across to me as an attempt to make a scented candle with a heavy fruit smell to it. Basically, there is a waxy candle smell with a non-specific fruit smell. I don't find this pleasant, so I never did a full wearing. There did seem to be a "synthetic" quality to it, which I often sense in these older fragrances. Those used to more recent fragrances might find this too strong and weird. So, I suggest sampling first if possible. I'll give this a neutral because I could imagine some people liking this one, due to its uniqueness.
29th January, 2010
This smells like muted lemons, old furniture and a bygone era...I love it with a passion! Somerville is very correct in stating that simple or familiar notes can become something wonderful in the mind of a master perfumer. I like the opaque quality that holds the heady notes at bay to a degree, and gives the impression of experiencing this beautiful scent through frosted glass, like the bottle. The fragrance is poised and sophisticated, yet gracious and self-effacing. Gorgeous!
29th November, 2009 (last edited: 19th March, 2010)
shamu1 Show all reviews
United States
My tastes in colognes go through phases: I'll wear fougeres for a few months, then move on to "powerhouse" scents for another few months, then move on to sweet oriental fragrances, and so on. But deep down, I am, and always have been, a classic scent guy, because time after time I always end up going back to the classics - Equipage, Eau Sauvage, Bel Ami, Habit Rouge, Monsieur de Givenchy, etc..

Moustache is that kind of French-styled classic scent that I truly love, and which I know I will always turn back to, after all the aoud fragrances, acquatics, niche scents, etc. have come and gone out of fashion. I absolutely love this fragrance. It has a timeless lime and orange citrus blast that I can still smell for a good hour or two after application, which morphs into a slightly powdery and leathery drydown. This scent is extremely well constructed because even after the citrus notes from the opening accord have faded, I can still remember and sense their presence in the drydown, simply by the masterful way this scent was constructed. My only complaint with Moustache (I'm reviewing their Concentree version in the beautiful ribbed bottle) is that I wish it had better longevity - I only get about 5 hours out of this, which I suppose isn't bad for a primarily citrus-based scent.

I'm disappointed to hear rumors that Rochas has already discontinued Moustache. This is really a shame, because Moustache will always smell great, will always survive the ebbs and flows of fashion and fragrance trends, and will always be relevant. There will always be a market for timeless, high quality classic scents like Moustache.
09th November, 2009
Rochas Moustache

Edmond Roudnitska was one of the great perfumers of the 20th Century, the short list of perfumes he created are classics but more importantly they all feel entirely original. What is most interesting to me is when I wear one of his creations for the first time, now, it feels thouroughly modern and unlike other scents out there. In 1949 after having created Rochas Femme during World War 2 he ,in collaboration with his wife Therese, created a masculine for Rochas called Moustache. When you look at the note list for any of M. Roudnitska's creations you realize what can be accomplished with a few notes skillfully blended. The note list for Moustache is simple; bergamot, lime, pine, vetiver, moss, rare fruit. The scent that those notes create is complex and wonderful and almost smells nothing like what that note list would lead you to believe. Based on the note list I'd expect a bright citrus scent with a grassy heart leading to a darkly sweet ending. Instead Moustache wears like a citrus, dark floral, leather scent. It makes Moustache feel like alchemy instead of chemistry. The top is a bright citrus mix of lime and bergamot, as advertised. Then, on me, in the heart I get a dark floral accord which feels like a combination of narcissus and jasmine. I'd also swear there is some patchouli floating around but maybe not. The heart does have the mossy character but it mostly feels like a rich suede leather. Once again, not what I would expect based on the note list. Moustache is another example of how a skilled perfumer can take notes that one thinks they know well and combine them in a way to show new facets of them. Moustache has average longevity on me and slightly above average sillage. It seems every time I wear another of M. Roudnitska's creations I keep fumbling for ways to describe the artistry of his perfume, Moustache is no exception to that.
19th September, 2009
Swanky Show all reviews
United States
This is for the Eau de Toilette Concentree version in the classic columnar bottle which is almost worth the price of admission itself. Hard to argue with several of the other reviews here. This is totally unique while also bringing to mind other midcentury classics such as Eau Sauvage and YSL Pour Homme. Moustache adds a big, big dose of lime creating an effervescent sharpness oddly reminiscent of Lemon-Lime Alka Seltzer. And that's after the initial blast! I can see this scaring some away with the heady mix of lemon, lime and the animal urine note touched on by others. Luckily this latter oddity fades leaving a bubbly citrus in its wake. For those intimidated (or simply put off) by the harsh opening, Monsieur de Givenchy from a decade later, does a similar thing in a much smoother way. All in all, though, thumbs up for the uniqueness and the killer Rat Pack bottle.
07th June, 2009