Reviews of Muscs Koublaï Khän by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Find out more about Muscs Koublaï Khän by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido in the Basenotes Fragrance Directory


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    dwnwrdishvnwrd's avatar
    dwnwrdishvnwrd
    United States United States

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    After spending a couple of days with this I can certainly say that this is an awesome fragrance. I was a little leery about the first spritz. After reading through all of the reviews I was almost certain that I would end up smelling like I had grown a pair of testicles on my chest and that those testicles need a good washing.

    I spray it on and the first thing I smell is honey. Extremely rich, tasty honey. I didn't get any of the horrible funk and I certainly (thank goodness) didn't get balls. Small spray to the inside of the elbows and dab my wrists in each and I certainly start to get a little funk but nothing that is off-putting. It's a very sensual, slightly skanky note but it's not very heavy at all. It's blending in very well with the honey notes and it mellows out the sweetness of this frag.

    This would actually be too sweet to me if not for that note. It reminds me of the smell of the inside of a woman's thighs. But, then again, everything reminds me of that so it's not at all surprising to me. I've embraced my overly sexual nature and, most oftentimes, cherish it. If it wasn't for my constant tail-chasing I probably wouldn't care how I smell. Loving women brought me to this wonderful hobby of mine and that hobby led me to this richest of perfumes.

    This is a very (to myself at least) sweet scent. A delicate application is definitely in order. It blossoms very well with my skin. It also smells very expensive. That's a very nebulous term to use when describing a scent but some smells are cheap and other smells are expensive. This has an expensive smell to it. I think to say it smells of luxury, refinement, sophistication, and it does smell a bit naughty in a tenderly flirtatious way.

    I was expecting the bastard lovechild of Kouros, Eau de Hermes, and a Mongol raider but instead (happily) received a honeypot. Take that any way you choose. :)

    19 December, 2009

    bokaba's avatar
    bokaba
    United States United States

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    I was finally after much anticipation able to sample the fabled Muscs Koublai Khan. I must say that this fragrance has neither good longevity or sillage, but that might be quite overbearing for one like this. I imagine MKK as mixture of Eau de Hermes's prodigious sweaty cumin note up front and an animalic musk similar to Kiehls Musk, but higher quality than either of the former. MKK combines a sweaty cumin and civet opening with a floral heart and a dry down of musk, moss, vanilla, and tonka. I would get it if you can afford it otherwise get Eau de Hermes or Kiehls. I imagine MKK might become quite vociferous in warm weather though.

    01st December, 2009

    HighEstate's avatar
    HighEstate


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    This is kind of silly - I have just joined BN so I can post this review, but it's a bit of a waste of time: I can't really see myself ever posting another review because I can't quite imagine myself wearing any other perfume ever again.
    I am now getting to the end of my first bell jar, having worn it through the summer and now wearing it through the winter; I have just received my second jar so that I don't have to be waiting for it to arrive when the first runs out soon. I may get the new spray as well (at the moment, I have decanted into several bottles for gym, travel, work).
    This is a truly stunning, complex, amazing scent - on me, it wears very close to the skin and creates a fantastically warm, seductive scent (the notes have been well documented here); the animalic notes are just enough to keep this interesting and human - there is definitely a suggestion of clean human sweat but then it is this that makes it such a great perfume.
    I completely disagree with the poster that said "we tend to wear perfume to smell good, and usually to mask our own body odor"; the seductive smell of a clean human body, warm and inviting entirely deserves to be brought out and accentuated; perfumes that try to mask it are losing before they even begin. If you don't want to deny your humanity and want to celebrate it in the most joyous and seductive way, this is the fragrance for you.

    18 November, 2009

    Asha's avatar
    Asha
    United States United States

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    Serge Lutens Musc Kublai Khan

    Notes: civet, castoreum, costus roots, cumin, labdanum, Moroccan rose, ambergris, ambrette seeds, beeswax, vanilla and patchouli (from nstperfume.com)

    Musc Kublai Khan starts as an animalic one-two-three punch, rife with large doses of civet, castoreum and indolic floral notes. The opening is incredibly intoxicating: the civet lends a fecal edge verging on sweet; the leathery castoreum smells of rootbeer and bitter plant tonics; and the indolic notes balance the first two with a vanillic "wet cardboard" quality which adds some dimension and uniformity to the opening accord. I suspect there is also some honey or blackcurrant bud, as there is a slight urinous edge as well. Sadly, this amazing animalic orchestra begins to fade very quickly, allowing the honey/blackcurrant bud note take on a piercing quality. I presume this is the "dirty underwear" accord many people seem to find in MKK. The much maligned cumin comes out a bit later in the middle development as MKK rounds out and starts to smell slightly more leathery and skin-like. I must say, so far MKK ALMOST holds up to the skankiest vintage fragrances I have tried such as Jean Desprez Bal a Versailles extrait or Dana Tabu. Actually, I find MKK to be considerably cleaner smelling than those great classics. This is reinforced by the fact that, to my nose, the base is a soapy white musk blended with a vanilla-prominent amber. Generally speaking, the older formulae I have tried seem to have warmth and character which MKK lacks. Still, MKK is an extremely well-composed, smooth oriental which carries forth an established tradition using modern ingredients--one could do a whole lot worse. Highly recommended.

    31st October, 2009

    pete7505's avatar
    pete7505


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    The only time I can notice the funk is when the small sample I have is open, prior to application to my skin. My wife notices the same thing. When on my skin, it is simply a wonderfully exotic, soft edged, sublime musk; the details of which I lack the vocabulary to adequately describe. I am compelled to smell the applied spot over and over throughout the day. The silage is close to my skin, so I'm not too concerned about offending others who may not share my attraction. I love it nearly as much as Fumerie Turque, and will consider purchasing more than a sample if it does become available as an export, expensive though it is.

    05 October, 2009

    Sugandaraja's avatar
    Sugandaraja
    Canada Canada

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    In MKK I smell a sweet, almost creamy, and quite powdery accord with a slightly fecal background of musk, castoreum, and civet. The effect is a little like an elephant hidden behind lace curtains, and much more innocent than naughty. I find it about average in strength, totally linear, and very pleasant to wear, if not quite inspiring enough to make it worth a trek to Paris.

    Of course, given that musk anosmia is quite common, I might just not be smelling what others are.

    18 September, 2009

    Frip's avatar
    Frip
    United States United States

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    The way your crotch would smell after dumping talcum powder down your shorts and running the Phoenix marathon.

    17 September, 2009

    Neprac's avatar
    Neprac
    United States United States

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    C-A-S-T-O-R-E-U-M: the back-end of a beaver never smelled so good, no one will ever know though. Wear it with confidence.

    11th August, 2009

    Johnson73's avatar
    Johnson73
    United States United States

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    Well...I'm glad that so many seem to love this, but Muscs Koublai Khan is the first fragrance that I've had to scrub off. The fecal note in this is just too strong for me to tolerate. I am not a musk fan, though, so this is definitely worth trying out!

    11th August, 2009

    Gblue's avatar
    Gblue
    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    I find this really a rather friendly, soft, slightly fecal musk. Not scarily skanky, not powerful. Perfectly "meh", which is not what I was hoping for.

    14 July, 2009

    David Ruskin's avatar
    David Ruskin
    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    I LOVE this fragrance; I have become addicted to it and wear it when ever I can. It reminds me of "proper" musk, not the synthetic molecules we have to use now. It is not as dirty and as sexy as Musk Tincture, but pretty close. Lots of stuff going on as well apart from the musk. It is unique and special.

    28 May, 2009

    Bruspotter's avatar
    Bruspotter
    Belgium Belgium

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    After months of deliberation, I finally obtained a sample direct from the Salons in Paris. It was a sample in wax, on a card with a plastic covering which one peels off. I immediately applied some to my wrist, sniffed, and then recoiled in horror as the fecal, sweaty, genital odour flooded my nostrils. I was immediately reminded of a smell from my childhood. We used to buy a product in joke shops in England in the eighties called 'Fart spray' which was an aerosol which when sprayed, filled a room with a pungent, musky and downright revolting smell which hung around for ages. It was a kind of tinned stinkbomb. I used to delight in spraying my younger sisters' room with the product and I remember her once getting revenge by spraying my pillow with it. Well to me, Muscs koublaï Khän smells similar to that. It also brings to mind images of musky old wealthy Belgian women with bad breath, indeed the kind one is likely to encounter in the classier quarters of Brussels. There is definately a hint of vanilla cowering underneith the fecal chord, like someone who hasn't washed for a while and then applied vanilla talc to 'freshen things up'.

    Glad I finally got to smelling it, but I'm afraid I can't say it smells divine. I have been trying to eliminate the scent from my wrist with a stiff brush and washing up liquid. I've managed to draw blood, but the smell is still there!

    13 May, 2009

    nunezm58's avatar
    nunezm58


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    This fragrance is an absolute "musc" in any well-heeled fragrance fan. Will be soon available in the US (Fall 2009) under the regular Serge Lutens label, available in selected stores.

    18 April, 2009

    moss1310's avatar
    moss1310
    United States United States

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    What can I say that hasn't been said in the other positive reviews. This is the Holy Grail of musks. It is dirty, sexy, and unforgettable. This is a must have for every scent lover's collection.

    15 April, 2009

    Douglas Stewart Decker's avatar
    Douglas Stewart Decker
    United States United States

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    I first heard about Muscs Koublaï Khän in the Basenotes article by Liz Upton, 20 June 2008 in which she says she believes there a very few men who could wear this fragrance and get away with it. Call that a red rag to a bull for me!! I love animal notes, especially Musk and Ambergris, and I have very little problem with wearing any of them so when I read Ms Upton's review I had to run out and buy all the scents she listed, feminine or masculine, just to see if I agreed with her.
    I manufacture Ambergris extracts for a leading world supplier and have sampled many musks in the course of my work as a perfumer also. I can see how those individuals who have grown up in the last 3 decades with the ever increasing synthetic fresh monotone (ozone) fragrances would not get the point and genus of this scent. Perfumes which used White Musk and other gutted soft forms of the musk note which smell more of powder than anything else and have predominated the perfume industry since the 1980's, this would be a challenge perhaps.
    But to those who understand the secret world of natural pheromone and the sexual and social role it plays in every moment of human interaction, this scent will please them to no end. A role which is as intrinsic to issues of trust and comfort as they are to attraction and mating.
    I rarely wear commercial fragrances and so much to my surprise Muscs Koublaï Khän left me wanting more of this wonderful elixir. It is a truly exalted form of the Musk note that to me is floral, soft and erotic / exotic. One of the most sophisticated musks I have come across in the many years I have fascinated over such fragrances. So for those who find it offensive I beg forgiveness should we ever meet in public. But I am sure this will be one fragrance that will remain in my wardrobe for many years to come. It strikes to the heart of that which those classic perfumers books like Odoratus Sexualis and The Scent of Eros attempted to define. Not the most animal scent in my wardrobe but one of the richest.
    My only complaint is that it doesn't stay on the skin as long as I would like. I suspect layering it with real Ambergris will fix that problem with out changing the scent even a little and if you can afford to retrieve a bottle of Muscs Koublaï Khän all the way from the salon in Paris you can afford the Ambergris to go with it I suspect.

    06 April, 2009

    Somerville Metro Man's avatar
    Somerville Metro Man
    United States United States

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    If Jovan was the introduction, to most Americans, of musk as a perfume, Muscs Koublai Khan is musk elevated to its highest aspiration. For todays SnS it contains the animalic triple play of musk, civet and castoreum. Just typing those notes in might give one the thought that this is like what the cage cleaner at the zoo must smell like. On me this is about as far from that as one can get. This is a mix of so many things but I find this scent to be exotic and sophisticated. The top of this is a combination of cumin and rose and that combination leads straightaway to the heart of castoreum. In the base the hallmarks of many Serge Lutens scents vanilla and patchouli make their presence known and it feels like there is labdanum there but there is so much else on display that I might be fooling myself on that score. All throughout from beginning to end is the most incredibly rounded and beautiful musk I’ve worn. As the scent progresses the interplay between the musk and the notes in each phase create a luxurious one-of-a-kind experience on my skin. I recently had one of my colleagues pick me up a bell jar of this from the Paris Salon because I know this one will stay with me for the next thirty years.

    28 February, 2009

    Buzzlepuff's avatar
    Buzzlepuff
    United States United States

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    There are different kinds of dirty sweaty funky smells. There is (1) sour, odorous stench that is bacterial rot from the retraction of life; and then there is (2) sweat soaked body odors hard mixed with miles of work - clean dirt. Muscs Koublai Khan is the second kind. It's good clean sweat dried with skin worn bodily musk. It smells bad, but its a good bad. Its a dirty smell but you know its hard won and is very magnetic. Civet, castoreum, patchouli, ambergris are all probably in there. The best scent comes through a little hardship, I guess. Muscs Koublai Khan is one of my favorites. It smells like a horse riding mongol days away from home. But, people of both sexes are magnetically drawn to it. I like it too.

    06 February, 2009

    Horatio's avatar
    Horatio
    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Druggy and erotic, like a moist red velvet chair in a box at the opera, with a whiff of a Venetian canal probing around the ankles.

    24 January, 2009

    sketchwars's avatar
    sketchwars
    Sweden Sweden

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    This scent took me on a trip. I purchased a sample six months ago thinking it would be THE musk for me. I love musk and have tried soo many without finding exactly what I'm looking for. This was a dissapointment. First note I got was CUMMIN, lots of it. somehow it mellowed to a plain musk BUT with a dank smell of big dirty stripy hair. YUCK! I locked this in a jewelry box for a couple of months until five days ago when I found it again. Three months ago I quit smoking, i used to smoke half a pack a day so my nose may not have been the greatest of the bunch and my chemestry was obviously messed up! I put some of this on and went to make a cattle of tea. 15 minutes later the most amazing musk appeared. I Love this on me. it is animalic, sexy, romantic, comforting. If I smelled this on the right man he would probably not get rid of me, this is that amazing. Cant stop smelling myself :)

    22 January, 2009

    gupts's avatar
    gupts
    India India

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    If I were a lunatic, I would have surely loved this.

    This is gross. It smells like your unwiped back side just after you've unloaded. Yeah this also has this animal accord in it. Like a poster above has said, there is a 'zoo' smell in it....Like a herd of filthy animals defecating in a small area and then Serge Lutens employees went there, filled up the bell jars and then with their patented (secret) process condensed this foul smell into liquid.

    You must try it once and see it for yourself, how spot on I was with this.

    16 January, 2009

    abc1234's avatar
    abc1234
    United States United States

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    After one spray on my wrist, I smell ZOO. Yes, the place with all kinds of animals, you know. Most zoos have flowers planted along side of walkways as well. It is dirty and gross. The animal smell is so realistic so vivid. Can't stand it.

    But I guess this is the thing with niche fragrance, the worse they are, more popular they become. I bet average Joe can not appreciate such "high class" smell ;-)

    11th January, 2009

    TaraYvonne's avatar
    TaraYvonne
    United States United States

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    Ok, to the guy who thinks we're all imagining the dirty sexy smell of this frag and that we all read too many romance novels...you are outnumbered buddy so face it! I don't read romances, but this one makes me feel like I am in the middle of one. My husband puts this on, and it's on! It's like the man you shouldn't want because you know better. He's hot, sensual, a little dirty and has had way too many women-but Lord help you, you just can't stay away from him! That's what MKK is for me. I get a whiff of lion pee like at the zoo, something then incredibly sensual and wrong. It repels me, then turns me on. When my husband puts this on I have to walk away from the primal smell for awhile. But then I find myself drawn in against my will, to whiff him over and over again. Then I just can't stay away from him-I have to be against his chest. That is the mystery of this compelling fragrance. You may hate it, you may love it. Any way you slice it, it will raise eyebrows or melt bodies together and that's just cool.

    09 January, 2009

    fountaingirl's avatar
    fountaingirl


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    Oh I love this! I slathered it on the husband and couldn't stop huffing him. The first five minutes have a bit of a B.O. whiff if you get up really close, but stay with it. Once that dies back, the scent becomes pure rich musk, and it is a little smoky and just whisperingly sweet.

    To me it DOES smell good. I had it on my fingers after putting it on the Mr., and I was very pleased. I would wear this myself even. Love!

    04 January, 2009

    perfaddict's avatar
    perfaddict
    Nigeria Nigeria

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    One word: Perfection!.I have been a fan of musk since the late 70s (Skin Musk an aunt used t wear) and became intrigued with MKK reading the rave reviews in Basenotes. Got it delivered recently to London where i tried it for several days in autumnal weather. My first impression was that the musk was as "dirty" as i had expected, although i don't claim to really have the nose for individual notes. However, it was when i returned to tropical Nigeria where i live that MKK became a totally different animal. The castoreum and civet really came alive! Playing at the background of the musk, those notes combine harmoniously into a powerful erotic accord, surprisingly not overpowering. Very long-lasting, with its "presence" never in question even for a moment. Always got nice compliments from both sexes and have become a true convert to the SL line. I will always have MKK in my wardrobe.

    15 November, 2008

    ROUGEnoir's avatar
    ROUGEnoir
    England England

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    2.5 ml arrived yesterday.
    I'm already addicted and am suffering the characteristic headache that afflicts me when I get hold of a must-have fragrance. Patchouli tends to induce headache in me so I assume that's what is responsible in this scent. May have to buy the bell-jar. Certainly intrigues me and I shall experiment with more Lutens.

    Soft and powdery and sweet. Doesn't undergo huge changes on my skin but it lasts and lasts. To me it's a very feminine (though not in a light way) rose with a hint of muskiness/ mustiness. Dry certainly and powerful. Heady.

    So I'm firmly in the bewildered camp! What's with the skank, the dirt, the filth? I simply can't imagine a man wearing this. Yet they clearly do. I am enjoying it without detecting many of the characteristics other users report. In a way I am disappointed since this was to be a departure for me from Orientals/ florals but it speaks of roses. However it is a lovely thing in itself and I am pleased to have discovered it.

    18 October, 2008

    tessera's avatar
    tessera
    United States United States

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    Clean, soapy musk and barnyard. The two don't blend, but take turns: soapy musk and then hay and animals. Very disappointing for such an infamous and talked-about scent.

    12 October, 2008

    LuciusVorenus's avatar
    LuciusVorenus
    United States United States

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    This is truly a great perfume. It is not sweet like the other lutens. It is a simple, delicate, animalic thing, that really turns me on. The smell of musk is the olfactory equivalent of a tender kiss on your cheek. I always feel like making out when I smell this perfume. If you can buy it, please do it!

    07 October, 2008

    mademoiselle_nicole's avatar
    mademoiselle_nicole
    France France

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    This fragrance is touching in the deepest , dirtiest way, comforting and disturbing all at once.

    The first thing I get from it is unwashed intimate parts of a male.
    The first impact is dry urine and other excrements, mixed with sweet tobacco of a chain smoker, dusty polyester trousers and an unwashed body warmed by the sun.
    Smelling it makes me smile because my nose gets lavanda,civet, tobacco leaves, leather, castorum and labdanum, vanilla, and maybe also fava tonca... woven into a devlish masterpiece. Comforting because of its human scent.and at the same time terrorising... because of its human scent.
    It is what we would smell like if we did not have showers and fresh clothes at hand every day.
    It is comforting because it reminds us of our human roots and leck of perfection, it 's so real. But in a society where everything has to function perfectly and be anti-septical, this fragrance will scare all who try to cover all human smell.
    I think it is like caron pour un homme who chain-smoked, drank and partied for a week without ever popping into a shower. I think I would wear this in combination with a stunning evening dress for a dinner with someone I have an open revenge with. It is so breathtakingly beastily terrible that it is already genial.
    A fragrant insult and a masterpiece.
    It does not smell good though.
    Something that might leave You in doubt... did she or did she not... wash? It is freaky. I love it

    25 September, 2008

    mrclmind's avatar
    mrclmind
    United States United States

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    I am not a huge fan of the Serge Lutens line. I appreciate them, but they are not my style at all. As a whole I find that their compositions tend to have sharp edges and are composed to be very bold, with very discernible delineations of each note, rather than seamless integrations of accords. This is the style of this house and they do a great job with that particular aesthetic, but they are not generally to my liking.

    Having said all that, Muscs Koublai Khan is a masterpiece. Anyone who has spent time with actual animal musk tinctures knows that many animalic notes in modern perfumery are far away from their natural counterparts. MKK is a massively successful recreation of true-to-nature animalic perfume notes. Although there are also non-animalic notes in the composition, they are purely ancillary to the 4 note accord of Musk, Civet, Ambergris and Castoreum. It is quite an accomplishment given that no animal products were used in the making of this perfume. This is a scent that many will like and others will find difficult to wear; however no one who is familiar with the natural notes that are recreated in MKK can argue with the fact that this is a masterful creation. My hat's off to this house. Bravo.

    23 September, 2008

    PigeonMurderer's avatar
    PigeonMurderer
    Finland Finland

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    If someone would ask me what is that one fragrance which every serious male frag-head should own, my answer would be this, Muscs Koublai Khan. (In full-size that is, just because this juice if anything should be admired from that wonderful, classical bell jar bottle)

    A true work of perfurmery art. Stays close to the skin, this is the ultimate essence of man. Actually, in a way, most masculine fragrance ever created. Primitive, sensual, erotic and extremely natural.

    Magical Sheldrake composition for men, it is ridicilous for me even think about this on a woman.

    16 September, 2008

    Showing 61 to 90 of 130.