Perfume Reviews

Reviews of Pasha by Cartier

Total Reviews: 65
A classic outing from Cartier that many will find dated, and old-schoolers wouldn't mind the occasional dare-wear of it!

Definitely in the same category of Van Cleef and Arpels Tsar, YSL Jazz Prestige, and other spicy-citrus heavy hitters from the 80's and 90's.

Fresh, aromatic, with a tasteful dose of citrus, mint, lavender, oakmoss, patchouli, and sandalwood to hold it down with splashes of herbal and wood. Decent projection and longevity, fit for most occasions all year round.

This is a period piece type of cologne, so once again opinions will vary from contemporary consumers.
04th December, 2018
There was a good, albeit short-lived trend among the "Beige Wave" of the 90's, and it was the fruit and spice semi-oriental fougère, and a direction meant to uplift that last blast of dandy-like fougères clinging to the tail end of the powerhouse era from their own impending oblivion. I'd say this artistic offshoot only delayed the inevitable for the classic fougère genre as a whole, since synthetic abstraction was the future and classic genres like fougères and chypres would eventually be impossible to make under IFRA regulations once the synthetics became widely-accepted substitutes. Jazz by Yves Saint Laurent (1988) arguably kicked off this last gasp, even if the independent R&D behind it cost them so dearly it eventually drove YSL into receivership by LVMH, and it would appear Cartier would be the ones truly benefitting from the effort, since Pasha de Cartier takes the theme to the next level, and is perhaps the briefly-lived genre's finest example. Fragrances like Pasha de Cartier (1992) were the perfect answer to guys who found aquatics like Cool Water (1988) too seasonal and "fresh" fougères like Eternity for Men by Calvin Klein (1989) too thin, but also didn't want to slide back into the heavy-handed animalic/patchouli/oakmoss or musk/leather/woods bases which dominated the 80's and 70's respectively. Public opinion was rapidly changing on what smelled masculine, but scents like Pasha de Cartier represented a good compromise between the aromatics of the old school and the sweet apologetic vibes of the new, so as a neat little "bridge" between generations at the time, it was fantastic. It seemed even Yves Saint Laurent realized they had been outclassed by Cartier, as they released a revised version of Jazz called Jazz Prestige (1993) the following year which traced the footsteps of Pasha in an attempt to trump it, and although it is stronger, I don't necessarily find it better, but more on that further down.

Pasha de Cartier opens much like Yves Saint Laurent Jazz, as if perfumer Jacques Cavalier really dug what Jean-François Latty had done for the other house but felt it was incomplete, needing "jazzing up" further with mint and mandarin orange accompanying the lavender and artemisia of Jazz's opening. The result of these additional fruity and fresh notes makes for a bouncy, energetic, and personable zip which YSL would try to 1-up by taking the fruit further in Jazz Prestige, swapping out orange for a louder apple note, but here the sweetness stays inbetween the two Jazz compositions sitting "just right" like Goldilocks and her porridge bowl. From this fruity opening we're lead into a caraway and anise note, making Pasha feel like a fruity take on the opening of classic Azzaro Pour Homme (1978). Coriander and rosewood add an aromatic spice to the heart, and supposedly there is an Aurinia/Golden Alyysum note here; I've never smelled that so I can't speak to it, but I do know a faux apple and spice note does creep in, drawing another bridge to the later Jazz Prestige. The base for something like this is pretty obvious, being cistus labdanum, patchouli, oakmoss, coumarin, and sandalwood, with the latter being particularly creamy here, denoting it's likely the composite favored in compositions like Chanel Égoïste (1990). Pasha de Cartier seems like a fougère kissing cousin to the latter Platinum Égoïste (1993) in it's dry down, another link in this brief chain of semi-oriental fougères. Sillage is moderate and longevity is left wanting although acceptable, so a work day in this might need reapplication at about the 6 hour mark for sustain, but most scents in this small genre aren't beasts anyway.

I feel this whole shindig was likely killed off due to the release of Tommy by Tommy Hilfiger (1994), which took the fruity top and married it to a zesty semi-ozonic "fresh" fougère composition that felt like a pairing down of Aramis Havana (1994) made more youth-friendly and demographic-driven, and once sales figures made that the new standard, nobody continued down this sandalwood-heavy path anymore. I really enjoy Pasha de Cartier and it's one of my favorite examples of fruit, spice, and oriental tones playing with a fougère accord, wearable anywhere, anytime, just not in summer. As for YSL Jazz Prestige, it riffs very heavily on Pasha de Cartier but turns up the fruit, plus delivers it's trail at "Concentrée" strength, but Pasha de Cartier is the more-balanced and artistically-superior composition, even if the praise and veneration unfairly get handed to Jazz Prestige for being rare and discontinued, which in vintage hound's logic always means better. I'd reach for Pasha de Cartier 5 to 1 over any entry in the Jazz series, even if quantity and price of replenishment weren't an issue, but the popularity of the scent making it possible to buy Pasha de Cartier at any department store or any online perfume shop for a fraction of the YSL price sure helps. A billion limited flankers would also result from the success of Pasha de Cartier, but many of them are really unrelated creations sharing a bottle shape, so approach them on an individual basis. Definitely thumbs way up here, and a must-smell potential daily signature for anyone interested in the best of what the otherwise-tepid 90's had to offer! Cartier as a house rarely seems to falter anyway.
02nd October, 2018 (last edited: 03rd October, 2018)
I've no idea what Vintage I'm nosing here, however it is similar to Jazz Prestige. This tops with a little Mint and adds a whisper of Cumin to which I find attractive.
As Epapsiou says, No Brainer.
16th September, 2018
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A well-blended, straightforward, classical fougere. Rivals YSL Jazz and, more recently, Sartorial.

Better than the latter, to my nose, and cheaper and more consistently available than the former (by far) — recommended for fans of the style and glad that I finally got around to understanding this juice. Longevity could be better, but it's cheap enough to decant and reapply.
27th August, 2018
I agree that this is somewhat similar to Tsar. Comparing side-by-side, I prefer Pasha. It's warmer and woodier. Tsar seems stronger/louder and sharper/screechier. YSL fragrances such as Jazz and/or Jazz Prestige also came to mind, but I don't have them handy to compare.

This is a marginal thumbs up. I'll give it more chances, and I like it, but it's not really grabbing me. Whereas with Santos I'm on the fence about whether I should be getting a bottle, with Pasha I'm on the fence between neutral and thumbs up.
19th July, 2018 (last edited: 31st July, 2018)
TeeEm Show all reviews
United Kingdom
A very pleasant smell... perhaps a tiny dated.
A bought it very recently to try as it was relatively cheap
Longevity and projection is low to average for me (I bought from a warehouse so I wonder if it was a fake(?) or old stock)
06th January, 2018
This stuff smells like a hairy man driving on a hot day in a convertible after eating spicy middle-eastern food. It does it's own thing very well, but I'm not sure when I'd want to smell like that.
15th December, 2017
Although this appears at the very end of the "powerhouse 80s" trend of men's super strong fougeres, it is certainly worthy of entry into that clan and holds its own with the others.

Traditionally, blow me away opening of lavender and thyme with mint to help clear the nostrils, followed by spicy coriander, woods (rosewood, sandalwood) oak moss and patchouli. Dry down is just that, very dry, but the fougere composition never really lets one down, never disappearing into the background.

Quality ingredients, as one would expect from Cartier, are the key here.

Affordable and worth a try for the lover of classic 1980s fougeres.
17th August, 2017
Someone likened this to Drakkar Noir and I guess I can see where they're coming from. However, the trace similarity lasts only moments for me, then it's on to nicer territory. In short, I like it. A lot. I'm at the "Cretin" level when it comes to review writing, but I can report my experience at least, and it's all been favorable, especially from women, both young and seasoned. Just finished off my first bottle today. I'll be re-purchasing this one immediately.
22nd June, 2017
How has this very nice aromatic fougere escaped my notice until now? It has a lovely green herb and mint opening, with hints of camphor/lavender. There is a sustained peppery spice note from the coriander. Dry and airy, with a hint of rich sweetness from the rosewood. The thyme note develops and becomes somewhat earthy and herbal, but it is always balanced the freshness of the mint and lavender and the dryness of the spice. Slight mossy dry-down. Widely available, good quality -- a no-brainer for class!
23rd October, 2016
Stardate 20161018:

A good affordable classic masculine aromatic fougere.

This is one of the few cases where reformulation is well done and you should be fine with any version. The vintage is smoother but new one projects more. They both last a workday. The spicy note is more prominent in the current version whereas the base in vintage shines through more as spices take a back stage. So if that cumin BO note bothers you, vintage might work better for you.

The structure is that of an aromatic fougere and if you have tried Safari, Tsar, Jazz you should know what to expect.

Can be had for under $30/100ml - a no brainer.

18th October, 2016
Lavender, lemon and mint top notes create a slightly sour (grapefruit) effect, that although clean on my skin, can tend to run animalistic for some. A base of sandalwood and oakmoss finish off a traditional woody fougere composition that has huge sillage and longevity. The lavender drives the scent, and at times can seem biting when paired with the citrus and mint. Pasha behaves badly if over applied, so it's better to go light on the trigger and allow the scent to settle. If you're skin is like mine, you'll get an elegant and sophisticated woody aromatic fougere.

Pasha reminds me of one of my favorites from the same era, Ralph Lauren Safari, without the eucalyptus note and with the lavender turned up. I could easily own both though, with Safari for denim and boots and Pasha for white shirt and tie.

Pasha was a favorite work scent of my Dad's as well, so a Thumbs Up from me.
17th February, 2016
Can't say I smell Tsar in this but Drakkar Noir? Yes, a certain similarity but only up close.

The opening of this is quite lemony and within a matter of 10 seconds a spicy note appears, rather unusual. Some describe it as "pissy", others compare it with body odour. I'd have to say potentially the latter is correct but oddly it smells rather good.

You WILL most certainly be noticed wearing this. Go mad with it and you will annoy people. Go carefully with it and it may well work. I get the feeling that this is one of those fragrances that reacts with its wearer more so than your typical fragrance. Wearer beware!

By no means aquatic or even particularly modern. Then again I wouldn't call it classic either. It's Cartier, it's different and perhaps that's what it's all about.

A welcome addition to my collection and an improvement on the bottle of Santos I used to own which I didn't much care for.
08th June, 2015
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what a nice woody aromatic scent.distinctive and different!but this is not for every one and not for every day wear.Great for night or formal occasions in autumn/winter.

Pasha is perfect for classic dandy man.this scent makes me feel confident.Good sillage and it is truly a CARTIER Because is unforgettable.


Longevity?Very Good on my skin.

16th December, 2014
Pasha opens with caraway, mint and lavender and eventually ends up with a nice base of sandalwood and oakmoss. Somehow, for me, the smell of Pasha is an epitome of a classic aftershave. It's spicy, woody, elegant and well controlled, it inspires confidence in a delicate and sophisticated way. Rather good indeed.
28th August, 2014
Pasha by Cartier is a fragrance I have been using since it was introduced. I wear it to work once in a while (just a spray or two) and sometimes in the evenings when I go out. It lasts a long time on me. It is my favorite fragrance from the Cartier line. A true classic!!
28th July, 2014
Genre: Fougère

Has Pasha been reformulated? The stuff I’ve been wearing for the past few hours smells nothing like the suave, sophisticated fougère of the earlier reviews. The sour citrus and aromatic top notes are unspeakably hideous, like a grapefruit steeped in urine for a week. I attribute the effect to an ill-judged dose of clary sage and wait for it to pass. It doesn’t.

A crude assortment of spices represents improvement only so far as it provides a diversion from the ugly citrus. Soapy lavender, sweet resins, and geranium fill out a conventional fougère structure, but if the intent is to juxtapose the elegant and animalic à la Jules or Lauder for Men, Pasha fails miserably. Its spices and citrus fit together awkwardly and its proportions badly want balance. Among bold, animalic fougères, even Kouros smells impeccably tailored by comparison.

To smell this kind off thing done very well, take a sniff of Amouage Ciel for Men. Ciel weaves a similarly “pissy” animalic note through a much more subtle and refined spicy-fruity fougère structure, then decorates it all with a buoyant floral motif that’s almost too pretty for a masculine scent. The result? Ciel sings like Sinatra while Pasha grunts and belches.

If you like the idea of a bold, spicy, yet sophisticated fougère with an animalic edge and don’t want to shell out for Amouage, hunt down the underappreciated Lauder for Men. It’s more conventionally “masculine” than Ciel, but it handily trumps Pasha in craft and quality. If the animalic aspect is too much for you, Azzaro pour Homme or Tuscany Uomo offer high quality olfactory experiences without the raunchy undertone.
23rd June, 2014
This is a great classic fragrance with so elegant and classy smell.
I remember, when i was a kid, my uncle was a young and attractive man. he wore a tie and suit and this fragrance was his signature scent.
The opening is fresh, herbal and at the same time a little smoky with some floral notes. it's a little sharp at the start.
The anise, sandalwood and oak moss notes give this fragrance a woody and floral smell and the mint note makes it fresh and more herbal.
In the dry down which appears around 15-20 minutes after, the mint note is almost gone. there are some sweetness in the dry down with great and so elegant brazilian rosewood, sandalwood and patchouli combo. very pleasant scent.
In the base the smell doesn't change too much except the scent become sweeter with almost mossy smell.
Definitely it's a classic fragrance for a mature man. I mean more than 30 years old. but it doesn't smells dated and I think a young 20 years old still can rock this fragrance.
Great projection and longevity.
10th May, 2014
Minty chypre-fougère, slightly sweet, slightly formal, old-fashioned. Herbal component in the top, rosewood component lurking in the middle. Reminds me of YSL's Jazz, although Pasha is more formal.

Would classify it as a summer chypre, not too cloying and the mintyness gives it a cooler vibe in the heat.
19th February, 2013
This is a outstanding fragrance. I just tried It for the first time and just love it. I think I smell like a Persian Prince. Although I have never smelled a Persian Prince before. Or at least I dont think I have. Better than smelling like Persian rug I suppose. It really is a wonderful sent...Im surprised that It's not more popular.

Pasha by Cartier has good longevity and reasonably good projection. Not a monster In anyway...but it dosen't need to be. It's quite nice just the way it is.

Dont dismiss this one because It came out 20 years ago. That Indeed would be a mistake. Well done Cartier.
12th August, 2012 (last edited: 15th August, 2012)
heavy, far out....just a classic fouger!
07th July, 2012

01st February, 2012
While not as long lasting, I detect similarities between this (pre-reformulation) Pasha and Michael Kors for men, which I happen to like. There are notes in common in top, mid, and base. I don't get Turin's disparaging "Lemon Pledge" or "big in Brunei" (whatever did that little country do to deserve that cut?) comments. I enjoy reading Turin, and for the most part, appreciate his comments and evaluations. Sometimes his humor is lost on me (probably more my fault than his). At any rate, I like Pasha enough to give a semi-thumbs-up rating. I have a small bottle and not sure whether or not I'll replace it when empty.
21st December, 2011
An eminent classic, a green aromatic-hesperidic-spicy fragrance quite masculine, dry and impeccable, though unfortunately weak in longevity as usual for Cartier's. A sort of V&A Tsar's close parent imo, just slightly smoother and more refined. Opening is minty-herbal and citrus/lavender-mastered, with a powerful touch of tart citrus, the immediate influence provided by earthy patchouli (despite the latter is listed among the base notes) and a bitter, toasted and pungent characterizing incensey tobacco note (supported by woods, ambergris and mossy labdanum). The first blast is like a mirror of the whole range of influencing notes, expressing immediately in a bombastic aromatic way whatever the aroma is going to offer, namely a green-aromatic dusty boise scent with a persistent touch of rooty-tart bitterness, partially balanced by a durable mild floral whiff. The tart temperament expressed by citrus and herbal notes contributes (side by side with the floral presence) to create the tart mildness of the final evolution while the note of coriander enhances a dominant aromatic green and dusty/spicy temperament. Somebody talk about an urine kind of smell and about a sort of crudity proper of grapefruit and citrus; well I just see partially this association. The list of notes mentions Golden Alyssum which is a genus of flowering plant with a sort of floral mild-fresh kind of twist (the veritable soul of the whole Pasha's aromatic vibe). The final outcome smells exactly like a tamed and gentled version of the introducing aromatic top blast. The association of floral notes and mint characterizes the aromatic, almost balsamic, smell throughout its short development while the base is properly mossy, rooty, spicy/ambery and woodsy, with sandalwood as dominant note. Two hours later luckily the tartness morphs in to something like a soapy woodsy delicate mildness with a bitter/earthy/smokey virile (ambery) undertone. I definitely detect similarities with Tsar, which is less aromatic/hesperidic but more properly woodsy and smoky, and finally with the great Lauder for Men, a more complex leathery fragrance with an higher touch of florals and tobacco and a darker smoother final outcome.
18th September, 2011 (last edited: 28th January, 2018)
Finally got around to buying this. Its almost twenty years since I last bought it. Still smells wonderful. Maybe the kind of thing an older guy would wear. it smells rich and sophisticated in the way the Cartier fragrances from the 80's/90's typify.

When I last bought this back in 1993, it came in a very expensive (all silver) refillable bottle. That's gone now - a reflection of a new age but luckily the scent smells the same.

Wonderful, heady stuff!
14th August, 2011
For me, one of the best fragrances in the world right now. It's presence, it's golden aura, class, and refinement are nothing short of spectacular. It simply smells 'right', and to me, as good as it gets. It defines, for me, the difference between a fine smelling fragrance we can intellectually appreciate (Chanel Pour Monseur), and one that makes my heart skip a beat. Do I wish it lasted longer and projected better - yes. But then, the quality would probably take a knock to make that happen. Others have talked about Lauder for Men. No doubt a fine fragrance, but it genuinely smells off compared with the Cartier. Luca Turin says that Pasha smells like Pledge furniture polish. If only that were true, I could save a fortune!
07th August, 2011
It is a nice fragrance but not great with good sillage and average longevity.
It is a typical spicy/menthol fragrance, nothing is particular about it. It is for mature age group opens with great spicy/menthol notes to me that is a bright opening but dries down very quickly to almost nothing. there is no evolution of notes felt to me.
I give it 6 out of 10
05th August, 2011
The gentle opening was rather interesting but the drydown reminds me too much of Chanel Allure pour Homme, one I really dont like..

It often happens in life that we have to pay for someone else's do fragrances sometimes..
06th June, 2011
A nice minty/spicy opening quickly morphs into a big, fat, bland soapy fougere accord that just sits there, blasting its dull obnoxiousness like a broken early 90s foghorn.
24th January, 2011 (last edited: 21st March, 2011)
very sophisticated!
The mint note soothes down the spicy accord, which makes is wearable during the day as well. I like it!
12th December, 2010