Positive Reviews of Une Fleur de Cassie by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

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    teardrop's avatar
    teardrop
    England England

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    My first reaction on applying this was; "Wow! Big, animalic, leathery floral!" The cumin gives the opening a wonderfully dirty undertone, without being at all offensive. After an hour or two, it all quietens down into a soft, creamy-powdery mimosa with a touch of peppery violets. The base is suede-like in texture, with a hint of musk. The overall impression is of a golden-yellow colour, with little patches of purple from the violets; the colour of spring.
    When l first tried this in cold weather, it seemed a very quiet fragrance after that first couple of hours. But on warmer days it really blooms, & it lasts over ten hours on me. Wonderful.

    04 April, 2014

    mademoiselle_nicole's avatar
    mademoiselle_nicole
    France France

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    They say you have to take time to understand this. true .I worked for years in the niche perfumery but with this I have trouble finding words. when I smelled it first I could hardly tell what it smelled like. But it smelled deliciously French, rich and chic..... yet it smelled antique and like a wiff from the old world.... without being dusty or old fashioned. it was as if you look at a painting of Lempicka.... and suddenly are standing in it. It felt as if your grandma shows you a photograph of herself as a young girl in the 1940s.... and then suddenly you are in the photograph with her. Antique and new at the same time. Like a seal never broken. This fragrance is sth so original , I cant compare it to any other fragrance I know or own. It is as if You found out what an apple tasted hundred years ago, what a new hat in the twenties felt like wearing. Fleur de Cassie feels like sth that comes out of a time when things still createdemotions in people.....
    out of the world yet part of it. wonderful!!

    27 December, 2013

    efemmeral's avatar
    efemmeral


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    Like the flight of an albatross, this one. Such heavy molecules to become airborne - and it’s an effort - but after some lumbering along the ground and some ungainly flapping it finds my thermals and flies!

    And there it is, aloft. Flying for what seems an unreasonable time, this beauty is such a resolved whole it seems that evolutionary forces are responsible in bringing about an entity so fit for its purpose.

    Its purpose? To soar. That it brings me pleasure through its being seems an irrelevant aside to its joyous existence. Certainly not all its aspects are uncomplicated or simply pleasing, but there is much simple pleasure herein. It rises far above mere prettiness; I would certainly not call it accessible.

    That I am by turns and simultaneously aware of the details and the whole is a brilliant work of balance. I am aware of an effortless grace, of a creaminess, of a softness, of an intimate warm animal smell, of a distant elegance. From some angles I see that extraordinary wingspan, if I turn my head I catch the beaked profile or the curve of primary feathers, the tucked webbed feet that indicate this bird can (but doesn’t often) come to ground or water.

    Always it appears a live, breathing thing. In scent, something like the smell of sweat on my skin after sweet debauchery.

    A creation that brings me to tears with its sheer magnificence.

    11th April, 2013

    Card Board's avatar
    Card Board
    Germany Germany

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    Entrancing botanical opening of white flowers (starring a heady and realistic jasmine) with cumin briefly screaming human sensuality. I mean that in a very specific way that I am not comfortable sharing in a review, although I will say it is not b.o., rather it is something better and more personal. The cassie and mimosa probably deserve more mention than I am capable of making. The cumin fades pretty quickly; I wouldn't mind it sticking around longer. Far from being off-putting, it is a key component to the genius of the opening. The arrival of roses adds a dusky character, while the violets simultaneously add light. Of course, these are merely metaphors; there is no confusion or tension in the fragrance, which at this point situates the wearer in some imaginary, dewey spring arbor, including all the greenness implicit in such a setting. Strangely, the cumin returns, doing more of what it did before, with the effect being more towards animalic, but only briefly so, as it shortly hides again. Everything keeps changing, in a sense of shadow and light, and generally it just gets better and better. Just as you think you have reached the magical plateau, the composition turns an unseen corner and begins to climb again. As some have indicated, there are longevity issues. Dabbing, I get about three good hours of activity, with a fairly abrupt ending. Perhaps spraying this would give a different result (perhaps, too, I am being stingy with this precious liquid). Oddly, pleasantly, elements of the top notes persist and permutate throughout.

    I usually regard nearly everything as unisex, and this is no exception, although I imagine more women would want to smell like this than would men. As a man, I love wearing this, yet, as a man, I love this even more on my wife. In any case, this is among the finest bottled fragrances I have ever had the pleasure of knowing, on par with, if not at least more interesting than Carnal Flower. Convincing on every level. Curse you, Mr. Malle, for pricing your potions so far out of my reach.

    EDIT: it seems prudent to add that warmer environments will really bring out the spices in this, making it perhaps more challenging for some. On a warm day, I find this is still fantastic, but am likely to choose this more frequently in cooler weather.

    10th April, 2013 (Last Edited: 30th April, 2013)

    iivanita's avatar
    iivanita
    Croatia Croatia

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    at the opening it reminds me a lot of Apres L ondee, mimosa flower is one of the most femminine one to my nose.

    The composition itslef reminds me a lot of Patricia Nicolais Le temps d une Fete, the musky base here is much more soapy and clean, i dont get anything animalic, its a little bit more fruity in the dry down, and bit less preaty then in the opening to me :)

    very mild and gentle frag, for women, beautiful composition but not very longlasting....and in the dry down a bit too synthetic to me

    15 November, 2012

    drseid's avatar
    drseid
    United States United States

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    The truth is I have absolutely no idea about what the primary ingredient "Cassie" smells like... That said, what I *do* know is I love Une Fleur de Cassie, and enjoy wearing it plenty.

    The brief but incredible opening has mild jasmine, coupled with subtle bergamot and mimosa accents. Soon after, I detect a dollop of cumin is added to a subdued but persistent rose heart that keeps the scent dark and somewhat dirty. The cumin has a bit of the dreaded "BO" note I tend to run from in fragrances, but unlike most scents with that note, Ropion has masterfully held the cumin just enough in-check to convey the dirtiness of the florals without being off-putting. I am also getting a nice dose of violet, and even quite a bit of carnation in the heart of the scent (even though carnation is not a listed note). The rose hangs around through the base notes, while joined primarily by musk to keep Une Fleur de Cassie's dark nature at the fore. Projection is average to slightly below average, but the scent has very good staying power.

    As to the marketing of the scent, while this page says "feminine," I definitely find it unisex and I would not hesitate to wear this as a member of either sex. I love Une Fleur de Cassie, and while I may not know if it achieves the true character of the Cassie flower, I can highly recommend it regardless. I am starting to come to the conclusion that Dominique Ropion has become my favorite living modern-day parfumier. Brilliant! 4 to 4.5 stars out of 5.

    26 March, 2012 (Last Edited: 21st December, 2012)

    dollars&scents's avatar
    dollars&scents
    United States United States

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    Une Fleur de Cassie by Frederic Malle - Upon application, one is treated to a rapturous array of florals; the inspiration of which is mind-blowing. Cassie, with its somewhat green, sweetish and ever so slightly powdery facets, mimosa, with its woody, toothsome, flowery character, carnation, with its intense spiciness, and an indolic jasmine, with its heightened decay, all march through the stepped phases of the birth and death of poignant floracy. The delicate innocence, the arousing nubility, the fetid rot, all present. Transitioning to waiting heart, a fascinating melange of a faintly soapy and honeyed rose, the fresh, green sweetness of violet, as well as the fruitiness of apricot, all commingle and lift the versatile cassie. A musty and sour clove as well as a sensual and sweat-like cumin dirty the mixture with their illusion of body odor and secretions. Magical aldehydes enliven the brew with their brillance, while bewitching salicylates add their brightening, fabric softener character. Segueing to the awaiting base, a slightly spicy and dry cedar interplays with a smooth and creamy sandalwood, while a sweetly vanillic musk lightly graces their interaction. A polished drydown ensues. Masterfully blended, this paradoxically awesome composition has good projection and very good longevity.

    04 March, 2012

    JeanieE's avatar
    JeanieE
    United States United States

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    Truly DIFFERENT. And at this point in developing my wardrobe, that is what I am looking for. I was not in search of this fragrance, but rather given it in the very generous stack of samples from Robin and Mona, AWESOME SAs at Barneys Las Vegas!

    Pretty spicy on top: I don't usually appreciate cloves but it is totally working here. Trying to discern exactly what is the rare Cassie flower in here...but it is different, and right now I like that. "like a haute couture gown" reads the sample card. Fitting for Vegas.

    29 May, 2011

    alfarom's avatar
    alfarom
    Italy Italy

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    This is simply brilliant. A great example of what real perfumery is. A perfect machine where all the parts work meticolously, in their own place, with an incredible timing, in the right way. Une Fleur De Cassie is the total oppsite of minimalism but is so well orchestrated that all you can do is take your hats off and appreciate it.

    A dirty-floral composition almost animalic with a pretty usual pyramid but with an unique smell. If this is not skill, you tell me what it is...A masterwork and a must try for everybody.

    31st March, 2011 (Last Edited: 08 November, 2011)

    GeM's avatar
    GeM
    Spain Spain

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    I'm Openmouthed with this stuff....

    Yes, it takes time to be understood, mostly to appreciate its beauty: I'm wearing it for 2 months and it still stunnes me every time, some side-effects change (really!!) depending
    1.on the part of the body you put it on,
    2.if you put it on just after the shower or not (I swear it works nicely with the soft sweat that emerges to cool the skin surface = it's one of that /in best way/ 'dirty scents'),
    3.the clothes,
    4.your mood,
    etc etc...

    real multifaceted, chamaleonic scent!
    This is "The Living Skin" (;)
    -greetings to the spirit of the E.L.O.-

    One of the most a-m-a-z-i-n-g scent symphonies I ever smelled.

    My favorite part is the "calmer, floral, (some anised-mimosa/violet!!) touches" of the middle notes up to the drydown... but the opening, what can I say about the opening! soooooo WILD... huh???? FEMALE in a bottle... IT really smells of female in animalic way = Erotic in an overpowering, femme fatale type of way... It's the kind of perfume which evokes sex!


    nice drydown as well: subtle misty veil that sometimes can make you think that scent is gone, but hey don't be wrong: is still 'there', like a whisper.

    ... highly recommended, thumbs up forever !!


    23 March, 2011 (Last Edited: 31st March, 2011)

    Merbert's avatar
    Merbert
    United States United States

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    On the Love/Hate Seesaw, I am definitely on the love side. As a fragrance gardener, I am drawn first to to the deceptively uninvolved jasmine and rose teaser, a bit like flowers at the garden gate, beckoning me to enter. Once inside, the reality of the garden presents itself full-force; and that includes the sweet/acrid foetid smell of rotting plants that have lived out their lives and are now re-entering the earth. An exquisite powdery mimosa acts in consort rather than sharp contrast to the foetid qualities of the cassie, completing the life cycle with its innocent sweetness. Like a good garden with foundation trees, a slightly aging sandalwood provides permanence and stability.

    This one's definitely on my "to buy" list.

    30th July, 2010

    Larimar's avatar
    Larimar
    Austria Austria

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    Actually, I am not really into flowers... in particular not white 'innocent' ones. This is completely different. The mood of this fragrance is somewhat a deep lilac with occasional darker shades, probably. I absolutely adored it when I first sniffed it in the store. This so beautiful! I can't see anything fecal or whatever mentioned in some of the reviews here. This is a real beauty - such a densely woven, rich and unique scent (unfortunately, I can't remember the smell of acacia/mimosa when I happened to see it in nature in full bloom). I can't say much more than: I ADORE it. It is probably in my Top 3 of all time. Back-up bottle worthy for me!

    01st June, 2010

    Mimi Gardenia's avatar
    Mimi Gardenia
    United States United States

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    To summarize- Une Fleur de Cassie- nothing to be afraid of. No cat pee, no air pollution ,no skank !

    Opening notes- green floral,soft and then it takes on a floral powder which becomes bigger.It reminds me of a 1930s woman sitting at her vanity - a mixture of perfume ,flowers and powder. It's a beautiful vintage smelling scent.
    Instead of the air pollution note, I get a kind of haziness, a fogginess which reminds me of an impressionist style painting by Jan Blencowe .
    The whole perfume is a kind of floral, violetty haze, lightly sweet, delicate. There is an underscore of green throughout which I like ,it cuts through that foggy flower note.

    Beautiful ,so different form Carnal Flower which has a different beauty and appeal .
    Carnal Flower - bold, cold yet warm ,full blown in your face tuberose.
    Une Fleur de Cassie- whispery, powdery , sweet woman's skin.

    Update : 2 years later, I bought the big bottle. In between I tried nearly all of the Frederic Malle line . I believe this one is my favorite along with Carnal Flower.
    As a really personal scent, Une Fleur de Cassie wins over Carnal Flower.
    Une Fleur de Cassie is an absolute jewel of a perfume . Rare this days .

    STILL no bestial or animalic elements apparent to me in this scent. If you love L'Heure Bleue and Apres L'ondee - then try this one. if you adore Mimosa, Cassie- try this one.

    20th April, 2010 (Last Edited: 16 July, 2012)

    ChrisJPN's avatar
    ChrisJPN
    Japan Japan

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    Another wonderful Frederic Malle scent. So wonderfully deep and complex, I'm absolutely impressed. It starts out like a far more refined Kingdom but the development is just marvelous. I love it.

    11th November, 2009

    orrisboy's avatar
    orrisboy
    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    One of my all time favourites. Bestial & rich, textured, voluptuous provocation. Big EFM fan, especially the edgy florals. After application, the tense rubbery industrial white floral trail opens its arms and releases the haunting emotive spice and hot skin note i seem to be constantly drawn to in scents. I keep returning to my own skin as the scent shifts and travels to its hovering vanillic echo of a end. As with nearly all the published Malle scents, the power is sometimes debatable. Some days it shocks me beautifully with it 30s music hall vulgarity, other days it just shimmers and fades. Extraordinary nontheless.

    23 June, 2009

    Olfacticurean's avatar
    Olfacticurean


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    This is a stunning modern classic. Not only is this fragrance extremely faceted and complex, but it is beautifully powerful and coherent, true vintage that is a marked contemporary fragrance. Beautiful aldehydes and bergamote provide the opening counterpoint for a beautiful, woody violet note. All of this sits on a grand set of absolutes: mimosa, rose, jasmine, and cassie, an almost uncontrollable note.

    13 May, 2009

    qxtc07's avatar
    qxtc07
    United States United States

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    What a stunning fragrance! The cassie, violet, and musky sandalwood are the notes that stand out the most for me, but this is a very complex fragrance to my nose. It is wet, powerful, and animalic--it makes me think of a jungle, full of both growth and decay. Violet is sometimes a difficult note for me if it is overpowering, but here I find it pleasantly challenging--still strong, but just enough restraint. I think the unisex label is correct on this one, although I personally like it much, much better on a female friend of mine than I like it on myself.

    18 December, 2008

    Nostalgie's avatar
    Nostalgie
    United States United States

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    Thank you, Dominique Ropion! If I could designate a single perfume to be the scent-track of my life it would be Une Fleur de cassie.

    I am a huge fan of acacia farnesia, the dominant note in Une Fleur de Cassie. In most perfumes, acacia farnesiana is sweetened with a huge dollop of heliotrope: the effect is pleasing, but it is not true to the strange, vegetal, dry character of the actual flower. I'm delighted to say that in Une Fleur de Cassie I detect instead of sweet almond, an earthy, spicy, cumin-like note, in perfect contrast to the floral. This is not for everyone, however, and looking at other fragrance sites, I see most people love it or hate it--nothing in between. The cumin can smell a bit funky. Some people perceive it as the scent of unwashed human bodies--and while that is not exactly. But come to think of it there is a seductive, cuminy smell to some male armpits. Maybe that's why I find that sort of dirty basenote glorious. If this seems just too creepy but the rest sounds good to you, I would recommend Après l'Ondée by Guerlain, which is in a similar scent family, but sweeter and cleaner, and every bit as haunting, or the less complicated Mimosa pour moi, by l'Artisan Parfumeur. But by all means, give Une Fleur de Cassie a try. You may fall in love.

    29 November, 2008 (Last Edited: 15 March, 2010)

    TaoLady's avatar
    TaoLady
    United States United States

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    I am a woman of the eighties (and the seventies AND the sixties AND the fifties) and this wonderfully blended exotic floral is PURRfect for me. I am anyway a huge fan of Ropion and his mastery of the assertive bold statement flowers well on my bod. This scent may have been meant for the dark recesses of a Rolls enroute to Le Jazz Hot but I happily wear it with shorts and sandals here at the beach.

    09 October, 2008

    Mimiacid's avatar
    Mimiacid
    Ireland Ireland

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    I'm always amazed at my fellow sniffers who find this scent repellent or dark or intimidating. I find this to be an absolutely exquisite and quite uncomplicated floral. Like many of the other scents in this wonderful, high-quality line, it is superbly well-structured, with ne'er a wobble in any stage of its development. I find it reassuring in large part because of its quality, in the way I find other Editions de Parfum scents, or Chanel, or Guerlain scents reassuring. It's always reassuring to know that there still are manufacturers dedicated to artistry and quality in perfume. Practically everything in this line is FBW.

    13 July, 2008

    JaimeB's avatar
    JaimeB
    United States United States

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    Flowery, spicy,fruity, aldehydic, musky, woody; this scent is remarkable for its brilliant composition, its juxtaposition of notes that work together beyond expectation. This is the genius of the true nose, to make a scent that works in balance despite odd combinations by gauging exact proportions to achieve a novel effect. Ropion here succeeds in spades, making a rich floral-woody-oriental with subtle marriages of fruit and spice, using apricot to enhance the florals, and clove to reflect the carnation, and then tying it all together with a classic and straightforward woody oriental base note. This is an extraordinarily rich floral, shimmering and complex, with carefully arranged modulations to carry one through the seemingly seamless development in precise order. It's one of the best of an already excellent set in the Éditions de Parfums series.

    13 July, 2008

    pookerella's avatar
    pookerella
    United States United States

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    This is an exceptionally beautiful fragrance, highly retro and very classic. I have learned to be extremely fond of Dominique Ropion's perfume creations in the most recent past (Carnal and Amarige to name two). Une Fleur de Cassie is beautiful from opening note to drydown. I am very much reminded of Je Reviens (another of my all time faves) throughout this perfume's life, but it comes in less sweet and more full-bodied. While I find this scent "deep," I am not seeing all this "darkness" everyone is referring to. To me, this is light, soft, powdery, romantic....nostalgic. One whiff will remind you of at least one bittersweet romance. The musk at the end is very nice. My new "instant favorite!"

    12 June, 2007

    Roy's avatar
    Roy
    United States United States

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    Une Fleur de Cassie is most impressive in it's transparency. It evokes the smell of a person who has perfumed oneself. There is a dirty human core veiled in powder/musk notes from the cassie/mimosa, orris, and musk/sandalwood so it wears almost more like an idealized version of a person's natural scent than an overt perfume. I couldn't stop smelling the back of my hand (a tester does it no justice).

    02 May, 2007

    groovergreen's avatar
    groovergreen
    Australia Australia

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    The first time I came across Une Fleur de Cassie, I almost burst into tears. It was the perfume I had been searching for all my life --- an aromatic evocation of my childhood in Hong Kong, of cassias, gordonias and spicy lantanas, of morning mist on the Peak and damselflies skimming over sparkling pools, of banyans and balsams, mossy tracks into thickets, sweetly rotting leaves and cool, moist earth. The first air I ever breathed smelled like that; it gave me life, and Une Fleur de Cassie is an intense distillation of it. I had to find out if I were just wilfully tricking myself, so two months ago I went back to HK and walked through the forests of the Peak all the way to Black's Link for six hours ... and yes, Cassie is as close as any perfume will ever come to being my version of "a la recherche du temps perdu". It is a cool, elegant, aloof scent. It is not pretty, like a bunch of fresh flowers waved in one's face; it's alluring, like a forest full of well-concealed beauties waiting quietly for the solitary walker to notice them. I wear Cassie when I'm feeling a bit vulnerable and need to restore my self-possession by reminding myself where I come from.

    16 April, 2007

    mermaid's avatar
    mermaid
    Ireland Ireland

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    My husband is a wine writer and my seven year old daughter has inherited from him a deadly accurate nose. When I offered her my wrist without comment, she said, after a couple of thoughtful sniffs, "it smells like a perfumed zoo".

    Not sure where that came out of.. but I think this is an extraordinary scent. For me it paints a picture of a garden at the end of the summer, with the sweet/sharp scents of flowers and leaves, sun baked earth and somewhere in the background, the a faint, sweet and not unpleasing smell of compost. I don't have it now but I soon will.

    17 March, 2007

    Indiscreet's avatar
    Indiscreet
    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    A cool floral, perfect for a bright spring day. Initially it's quite pungent, but this dries down to a subtle, musty undercurrent, leaving the flowers to proliferate. I get a lot of jasmine from this, and in this regard it reminds me of Alien, though it's a lot less in your face.
    Even though Une Fleur de Cassie is not really my style, I can see its attractions.

    10th March, 2007

    Gerald's avatar
    Gerald
    Germany Germany

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    Think of a walk through a park on an early morning in late september, when the air gets cooler and there's this fine mist on the last green leaves. That's my main impression of Une Fleur de Cassie, which is a unique combination of notes: it's powdery, green, soft, cool, melancholic and calming at the same time. It seems to be full of contradictions, and maybe that's the reason why it polarizes that much. Personally, I love it. I like its matt green vibrancy and its dim chlorophyllic character. The lack of sweetness makes it a bit easier to wear than its near relative Iris Poudre (which I also appreciate very much). Maybe its name is misleading: don't expect flowery freshness or cheerfulness - Une Fleur de Cassie is far from being a happy spring scent, but it's a grand, slightly aloof love-or-hate fragrance.

    31st July, 2006

    Bvlgari_BLV's avatar
    Bvlgari_BLV


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    a dash of poweder, cold metallicness, rich smell of money

    04 August, 2005

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