Total Reviews: 17
Holiday scents #6 - Diptyque "Philosykos"
A first try out of the famous fig and fig-lead fragrance, my sample in EDT version. Philosykos opens with plenty of milky fig. Thankfully, despite the 'milky', 'fig', and 'green' descriptors coming to mind, this is not a 'moist' rendition, but a rather dry affair, which makes for a pleasant opening. The next stage supports the fig with a hint of coconut. There is a green aspect to the top and heart notes, but this isn't the green of eaux-de-cologne, where this effect is provided by a mossy, grassy, or aromatic component. Here, as many reviewers have already noted, the green component is of fresh young stony fruit or nuts - a much gentler and creamier take on the idea. The base adds some woods, sandalwood rather than cedar to my nose. Sandalwood certainly seems to fit more intuitively with the other notes.
Although the ensemble is no doubt interesting and pleasant, it bears too much resemblance to sun cream, smoothies, and other toiletries and comestibles for it to be fulfilling in any conventional sense. It sticks to clothes in a pleasant way, but it has not left me wishing to pursue any other fig scents for the purpose of purchase; I probably would out of general curiosity.
It is a good scent for summer if you get on with it, and accessible given its genre. However, I can't quite bring myself to give it a positive rating. Therefore, a neutral rating here, based on originality, balance, realism, development, and just general 'niceness' on the one hand; as against lack of realistic application, and poor sillage and longevity, on the other.
We have a fig tree in our yard and I know exactly how fig smell like.
This fragrance open up with very natural and beautiful fig note and some green notes in the background. it's slightly sweet. very smooth and pleasant smell.
As time goes by, the scent become sweeter and coconut kicked in. the mid is something between fig and coconut smell!
It's doesn't smell completely like natural fig and it doesn't smell like a natural coconut as well.
Personally I prefer the opening.
Both projection and longevity is weak on my skin.
Fig leaves and sap - very similar to L'Artisan's Premier Figuer. I absolutely love green scents, but I really don't understand this modern obsession with fig fragrances. Everyone raves about Philosykos and I do like it, it's pleasant, but it's popularity really does surprise me. It's just all about milky leaf sap to me. I rarely reach for this or Premier Figuer, they're just not scents I enjoy wearing.
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Mmm, nice. Fruit and wood. Spice or an aldehyde underneath giving density? Not the least light. Looking it up. Fig tree leaves and fruit, coconut, wood, white cedar. The intent is a fig grove and the density is meant to be earthy, but the way it's achieved means I can't sniff very long. The initial notes are fabulous, though.
Its easy being green
Reminds me of the underbrush of a forest in the rain; tons of green leafy smells, sweetness perhaps from rotting berries (in the metaphor, no literally) and some earthy woody notes. It all comes together into something that is elegant, but perhaps a bit "soft" for me. Also, something about the sweet earthy greenness actually does not quiet agree with me. Clearly well made, but perhaps not something I am loving.
In New Zealand the Brown Turkey fig is commonplace. They are more cold tolerant than the Black Mission figs which produce sweeter fruits. We lived, for five years, in Nelson, one of two major fruit bowls for the country. Figs grow well in Nelson as it has the highest sunshine hours and low rainfall. There were several growing on the boundary where we lived.
I found Philosykos disappointing in every regard, all the more because (on my travels) I loped around the niche shops like a panting golden labrador looking for friends; and I found one at Diptyque. She gave me treats, which I am now reviewing, unfavourably. Talk about bite the hand that feeds you!
BTW I love 34 Boulevard St Germain. Yummy
Pros: A Yummy Hit
I own a fig tree, and this is EXACTLY the smell of fig leaves and sap right off the tree. It smells exactly like the real tree, but I don't want to smell like a mulched pumpkin patch.
27th January, 2013 (last edited: 13th February, 2013)
Although the idea of a perfect fig note is glorious, evocative of Mediterranean nights the reality rarely lives up to expectation. This is true of Philosykos which, although it has a promisingly sophisticated opening dries down to a slightly difficult to wear sweetness. Glad I tried it but wont be back.
A very good smelling fig, but just a fig nevertheless.
It opens like a greeny fig (with its leaves and everything), and it dries down to a sweeter fig (with the skin first, and just the pulp at the end). Not overly sweet though.
I could only see it in women who are into natural therapies, tree-hugging and the like. Not men.
Good to surprise on special occasions your lover or hippy friends, but I can’t imagine why anyone would like to smell like a fig every day.
I would recommend splits or very small bottles, but a full bottle is too much.
As someone who hasn't spent time chilling in Italian fig gardens, I can only give my opinion based on what I smell. The opening smells just like taking wet oak leaves in Spring and ripping them open. Very green, watery and plant-y. I personally love that smell. You also get sweet fig that you'd smell if you've even just eaten a fig. It's super linear. It smells more realistic than most fragrances that try to replicate a scent
Its also pretty feminine and uninteresting. So as a man I'd not wear it. It just makes you smell like wet plant sap/juice. Inoffensive but boring. A room spray perhaps?
One of the most representative fig leaves based fragrance (together with Ninfeo Mio Annick Goutal, Ferragamo, Heeley Figuier and some others from Jacobs, L'Artisan etc) , absolutely remarkable in its green-mossy and milky taste of fig. The juice is natural, leafy and realistic and exudes, above all at the beginning, that typical lacteous, slightly sticky, lymphatic, barely earthy and resinous taste of fig glue that you feel on your hands when you are peeling the typical mediterranean tasty fruit (i mean white peel figs) we are talking about. The initial indolic smell is exuded by a chord of milky fig and powdery woods, it has a short development, understates progressively its powderiness becoming edible and resinous but never syrupy or too much dense (we know indeed that the Giacobetti fragrances use to be extremely soft and balanced). The final outcome of Philosykos is clean, airy, sharp and cool, i would say joyful, elegant
and attractive even if a bit too linear and woody (more convenzional), not fully sophisticated and botanic. An interesting scent anyway, evocative of italian summery sunsets.
11th March, 2012 (last edited: 15th September, 2012)
A scentscape of a fig garden, PHILOSYKOS leans ever so slightly towards the masculine side with its less citrusy, greener and earthier approach. I still prefer L'Artisan Parfumeur's interpretation though.
After trying Creed's Virgin Island Water, I became intrigued by coconut/fig scents, so I started my journey. First came Marc Jacobs for Men, which on first impression seemed nice, but after some thought I realised it was linear, too powdery and just smelt overwhelmingly of figs. Second came Acqua Di Parma's Blu Mediterraneo Fico di Amalfi, and while it was better than Marc Jacobs, being more citrusy and fresh, it still just smelt overwhelmingly of figs. I started to become tired of this "genre".
Then I tried Philosykos. Wow, what a nice change! It opens with an incredibly strong leaf and earth smell, with the fig just in the background rather than a prominent feature. It reminds me exactly of a WET fig or coconut tree. Very very unique from the same old powdery rubbish I was experiencing before.
In the mid notes, the earth and leaf smells die down, but really there's not too much change throughout the progression of the fragrance.
However, despite the uniqueness, I just can't imagine wanting to SMELL like wet leaves all day, no matter the weather or situation.
Linearity (low is bad) - 2/5
Projection - 3/5
Longevity - 3/5
Smell - 3/5
Overall rating - 3/5
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Fig lovers -- this may be the holy grail you've been searching for!
As for myself, I'll be frank -- I'm still not convinced. It's like sitting under the shade of a fig tree -- then someone mischievous suddenly starts spraying coconut juice. Annoyed, your S.O. tries to ignore the troublemakers by cutting the unripe figs she had just picked into halves and throws them back at the misfits. Finally, they leave after being terrorized by the green-ness of the figs. Sadly, by the time you try to sit down and enjoy the scent of the figs -- you smell nothing because there are no figs left -- just the faint smell of leaves and the wood.
one of the best fig fragrance. But, could be wearisome..
I love figs. Rich and sweet, but not too sweet. But like green tea fragrances, I get the idea that perfume noses decided they would settle on what a fig smells like and then make variations of that for fig perfumes. To me, it doesn't smell like figs, it smells like. . .dry grass and tomato leaves. I love sniffing at the bottle, but I wouldn't wear it.
A for effort. The freshness is amazing, as is the naturality – one of the most authentic renditions of fruit I’ve come across, especially considering that the scent is entirely fabricated. This isn’t some shy, milky little whisp of figs on a temperate breeze (like for example that other fig by Giacobetti, AP’s Premier Figuier, which I honestly prefer); it’s like taking a big bite off of a fat fig-leaf and feeling the sap sting your tongue. This fig is green, fresh, raw and crisp, a bit more on the masculine side, perhaps. But while I can appreciate it as a work of art, I just don’t like it all that much as a fragrance to wear. It’s best suited to analyze and admire – and you have to be quick about it too, because it’s gone within two hours.