Hmm. Comme des Garçons 3 smells a lot simpler than all those notes in the pyramid suggest. It goes on with some odd sour candy-style fake fruit, acerbic green notes and one small sweaty sock. It's an aggressively harsh, synthetic opening, but purposefully so: an olfactory challenge rather than an accidental miscarriage. Come to think of it, #3 has the kind of off-kilter, confrontational opening that's often ascribed to Caron's much less iconoclastic L'Anarchiste. I kind of like it - too bad that what follows is a lot less interesting.
The Jolly Rancher top notes bow out once their shock value is exhausted, and their place is taken by a more conventional citrus note. The dirty sock meanwhile softens and blends into a well-worn shoe leather and cedar background. The tart citrus plays against the leather and woods not so much in harmony as in olfactory polytonality, or maybe an oxymoron in scent.
The effect is terribly clever, if also a bit self-conscious and stagey. Comme des Garçons 3 goes on this way for an hour or two, until the citrus quits and leaves the drydown to some cedar and animalic leather. In the end it strikes me as mildly absurd, like a self-regarding college drama major in a silk scarf, with delivery that never quite lives up to his theatrical entrance. Just like that drama major, Comme des Garçons 3 projects reasonably, but does not last.
CdG #3 is green and citrus-laden at first, granted, even to the point of fruitiness, but that soon dies down and is replaced by a cedary brute that is (at least to my nose) a half-sibling to Terre d'Hermes. (I can't believe no one else has picked up on this so far!)
Still, there is that trademark CdG synthetic "twang" to this one, and that distinguishes it (and not for the better) from TdH, at least in my humble opinion. Neutral on this one, as it's almost like a TdH wannabe that doesn't quite make it.
As usual with CDG, something that smells incredible, but that I have no desire to actually wear. This, the least bizarre of the current CDG offerings is like a blend of the two CDG Odeurs with woody floral notes. Transparent, airy, clean-smelling...it's also quite fleeting and has very little longevity.
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