Olivia Giacobetti has a way of combining disparate elements to make something that while surprising is never shocking. Unexpected, but perfectly coherent when you think about it. The sweet and salty hay of Dzing! The smoked-lily soap of Passage d’Enfer.
It’s a delicious way of changing our reality. The trick is neither fantastical nor over-the-top. She gives us something that doesn't really exist, but easily could since it makes perfect sense. In Safran Troublant, she doesn't give us a talking bear or a winged horse. She gives us a rose/saffron marshmallow. Not only is this imaginable, it starts to convinces me that I might actually have eaten one of these marshmallow at some time or other. The perfume is so persuasive that I question myself. Is the perfume a memory or an imagination? Giacobetti speculates so effectively that I question the experience, but she does it so deftly that ultimately I don't care. It's as if I'm day-dreaming. My mind eases a bit and I become more mindful and less perplexed.
Some perfumes call to mind comparisons to the visual arts. The portraiture of the soliflor. The fruity-floral as a still-life image. The abstract expressionism of Timbuktu. Giacobetti breaks into the written word with her perfume. Safran Troublant is literary fiction. It is the perfect short story. I don’t know of any other perfumer who does this.
I could have sworn there was cardamom in this - like Cartier Declaration but better and more gourmand. In any case, it's wonderful and after one sniff I was hooked. I'm very much looking forward to sniff number two.
25th February, 2013 (last edited: 20th March, 2013)
Veritas and Proportion are the guiding deities behind this divine scent. Giacobetti propitiates Veritas by realizing the truest saffron note I have yet encountered in perfumery – this is the real thing, the kind of magical intoxicating fragrance that first made people pick crocus stamens in back-breaking labour. Unadulterated saffron is pretty difficult to source these days and thus many people's perception of this note can be a bit mixed up.
Proportion (and no doubt craft) is what makes one baker turn out a minor miracle with flour, water, yeast and salt, and another a chewy lump. Here the merest dab of rose gives extra propulsion to the saffron at the start, and then the vanilla smoothes and gently warms the entire composition into creamy voluptuousness. To call this a gourmand is to somewhat miss the point; to my mind this has the erotic charge of being with someone with whom one is completely at ease and to whom surrender will bring only pleasure.
Sadly, loses strength fast and needs reapplications.
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Duh : This is one of those ones that's distinctive enough that if you're going to love it, you'll really love it, and if you don't, you won't.
Certainly not your Mr. Studly Sextup type of thing, but rather my go-to comfort scent instead.
And the sort of thing that if you like Tea for Two, there's a fair chance that you'll like this too.
Count me among those who love it.
I agree with the flavors on the previous posts. Not a sexy scent to me, like Opium, but a comforting scent.
This is my story. I walked into Barney's on Madison Avenue, I told the SA I was looking for a nice vanilla, she handed me this first. I smelled it. I bought it, and I left.
I've never smelled anything remotely similar. If you like vanilla/saffron perfection, you have come to the right place. Get this one.
I had tried a sample of Safran Troublant a while back and found it quite intriguing, very different from many of the more floral L'Artisan fragrances I've tested. Finding a whole bottle at a decent price, though, wasn't the easiest task, but I finally managed to get a partial bottle from a swap site.
Yesterday was my first public wearing of the scent. I knew I had an exacting day ahead of me--an appointment with my therapist (because one always feels a bit "troublant") plus as many errands as I could fit in before the anticipated thunderstorms. Although my experience has been that many L'Artisan fragrances are quite short on sillage and longevity, Safran Troublant nevertheless outlasted my own energy, and it was still going strong when I collapsed into an early bed last night.
On me, Safran Troublant is a heady, voluptuous spicy oriental. Saffron, I find, is the most prominent note, surrounded by a rich and harmonious blend of passion flower, rose, and vanilla. Every now and then I got a whiff of sandalwood emerging from under my clothing when I moved suddenly. All in all, I was surrounded by a luxuriously pleasant but unobtrusive aura of fragrance for over eight hours.
The scent developed very little over time--but when something is this lovely, who wants it to change?
I finally got a full bottle of this wonderful scent
and I am sooo pleased with it.
Its my first venture into the
Gourmand category of fragrances.
I love this smooth, sensuously
light and spicy scent.
The Saffron infusion ...added to
a rich and unique mixture of flower notes and my favorite base ... Vanilla!!!!
although it may sound like a "Plate of Paella"...
its very .... Uni-Sex in my book...
I cant stop smelling my wrist ....
and can't wait to wear this out and see what the response is from friends and strangers.
UP Date Oct7 2010:
My only compliant:
Non lasting and fleeting!
I find myself spraying it over and over....
to recapture its ethereal
19th June, 2010 (last edited: 15th January, 2011)
Gourmand fragrances are a genius idea: beauty for foodies! When a perfume's brief reads like a Ruth Reichl essay, it's certain that some corporate entity has fully calculated the profit in pushing consumers' hunger buttons. Most gourmand products do so cynically, offering you a feast of edible-sounding ingredients but ultimately leaving you empty and unsated. Not so Safran Troublant. This olfactory riff on Persian choleh zard (saffron rice pudding) delivers all the delicacies -- saffron, honey, rosewater, cardamom, nutmeg, cream -- but manages to do what few others can: feed the soul. Delicious AND nutritious!
Safran Troublant seems so shy and tender at the start that I almost had it written off as pale and bland, but I gave it just a moment longer to warm up on my skin and I'm glad I did. It's very simple and straightforward - roses, saffron, vanilla, and sandalwood, but the blend is magical. This is an enormously comforting scent - cozy and delicious but not overly sweet, slightly exotic and mysterious but not weird or funky. The rose I smell is pink and perfect. And I love the silky, smooth sandalwood. The vanilla (never my favorite note) adds just enough creaminess to the saffron to keep the whole concoction from smelling like an entree...but I never mind smelling a bit like dessert!
It must be the rose and sandalwood, but I find ST to be reminiscent of Ivoire de Balmain in the dry-down...but it's not green like Ivoire, and it's not nearly as dense. I can see enjoying ST in warmer months while I find Ivoire more suitable for cool weather.
I think this might be the first fragrance from Olivia Giacobetti that I ever sampled, but from what I had read I expected no projection and no longevity. Well, I'm thrilled to report that the sillage is very nice, and it lasts much longer (4-5 hours) than I expected. Safran Troublant is wonderful! I feel quite posh wearing this subtle but sublime fragrance.
Wow, it is lovely and anusual! Something that I can't explain! First saffron, maybe clove, ginger, or what, then deep rose with spices, a bit of vanilla, and sandalwood. I can not stop smelling myself!!!!
Safran Troublant is... adorable. If I had to pick one word to encompass the entire scent, that would be it.
The mild, gentle opening of powdery saffron quickly sinks in a semi-sweet basmati rice-milky concoction laced with rose. People who do not like rose in perfume (me!): try this.
A bit foody but not too much so, highly comforting and quite elegant. I can't praise it enough.
Longevity on me is very acceptable (5h), but then I never have problems with L'Artisans. It does stay close to the skin after maybe 30 minutes - it's one of those scents that you don't register as a perfume, but as "you smell good". Which is nothing but a compliment, in my opinion.
I was scared off of anything called "gourmand" by A*Men. The cloying sweetness put me off. Safran Troublant makes me realize that this was a mistake. The opening is what I call "hot" and delicious, an Indian lunch buffet, saffron, rose water, and a blend of the spices from the many dishes. The hottness fades, and vanilla appears, as if all the vindaloo has been taken, and what remains of the buffet is but the pudding. Not a lot of projection, not long lasting, which is a shame as it is gorgeous. I find it very masculine, while I would love to meet the exotic beauty that comes to mind when I imagine a woman wearing it. This is the finest saffron scent I have experienced to date.....
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The opening is of lovely rose and saffron. Absolutely wonderful. As it dries down, vanilla comes into the picture. It is a creamy, slightly spicy vanilla. Not the sickly sweet vanilla found in so many vanilla fragrances. I'd be tempted to buy a bottle if it didn't disappear so quickly on my skin.
Lovely, sweet-spicy accord with a hot-cold combination that smells like cinnamon and cardamom plus vanilla and saffron. The listed notes are merely rose, saffron, and vanilla, but I'm registering the rose as Saigon cinnamon. Very heady, with the intense jammy spiciness of chutney sauce--plus a large dollop of cream. Especially recommended to those who like Chinatown, but this one is spicier and less foody to me, minus the nutty notes of the Bond fragrance. Quite yummy.
This fragrance starts out with a big red rose note, which is soon joined by spicy-sweet saffron. The two aromas mix beautifully, and stay close enough to the skin not to invoke a headache. Over several hours, a smooth vanilla creeps into the mix, while the rose and then the saffron fade away.
A lighter, sweeter cousin of Le Labo's Rose 31, I like this scent because it says "feminine" and "exotic" without shouting either.
Spicy/peppery vanilla with a touch of rose. Fantastic. Smells like a Christmas store. (I wouldn't wear it, though.)
I first smelled this on a tester strip and thought it smells terrific but overall just too "foodie" to wear. I had a very strong desire to try cooking with the sampler as it smelled so completely delicious, but reckoned that maybe this is not such a good sign for something meant to be worn as a perfume: After all, who wants to walk around smelling like a rice pudding? However, I'm glad I persevered and spent a couple of days wearing "Safran Troublant" as the effects on my skin are less far less food-like. In my mind, it still has all the elements of a divine rice pudding: cream, rice, sugar, saffron, vanilla, cloves, cardamom, rose water, maybe a touch of additional spices (ginger, cinnamon, mace). The fabulous creamy, sweet (but not cloying) accord of the opening soon settles down into a lovely warm vanilla/sandalwood base, saved from being too flat by the brightness of the floral rose. I was really surprised at how pleasant this perfume is to wear and definitely will be adding it to my collection. It is a completely comforting scent from every angle. However, as mentioned in several of the other reviews, the longevity is not quite as good as other frags in the L'Artisan line.
not a all-day, everyday, casual scent.
but really sensual - not another simple flower thing.
a bit sweet, spicy, somewhat heavy.
To wear it - like 'An edible woman' of Margaret Atwood - would give a clear signal 'eat me' - and this can have many meanings...
L'Artisan really nailed saffron with this. It's creamy rather than spicy, which I think is an improvement. While I like the scent, I don't think it's something I could really wear. It's too distinctive and I would get sick of smelling saffron all day.
This is just WONDERFUL. Enough saffron, sugar, vanilla and milk to satisfy any gourmand's sweet tooth, but nicely blended with sufficient rose and woodsy elements to balance its foodiness. Spicy, exotic and creamy all at once. I've finally gotten my hands on a full bottle, and already I'm feeling anxious about running out. I do wish that L'Artisan would make an EDP version!
in brentwood there is an 'upscale' Indian restaurant that has saffron infused rice pudding and robyogi is onto something, the flavor is completely congruent to wearing safran troublant.
is this parfum too delicous to wear? I wonder about that in a way, but still am definitely into wearing safran troublant even if I wonder if I should be!!
Hooray. Hooray I say because i can smell something like a mixture of baklawa and tea, but not so foody that i want to eat myself or feel like wretching...and the rose! it's so SOFT! it actually smells like ROSE and not like pot pourri. And even better...they have it in full size bottles now on Lucky Scent. Oh JOY.
Wow, that's a wonderful saffron fragrance! A very sophisticated, elegant fragrance suitable for any occasion and season. Slightly sweet but not at all cloying. Stays very close to your skin and I wish they would make an EdP version... like many L'Artisan scents, staying power could be a bit stronger. But nevertheless, it's a real must-have.
Oh how I wish I could get my hands on an actual bottle of this! The only saffron scent (I think because it is tempered by vanilla) that I can enjoy wearing. Beautiful and with decent longevity. Sugar snap cookies tinged with a chocolate-like velevty saffron.
OH, Hello! I'm very impressed with this scent! Very pungent with saffron and vanilla, this makes it truly a gourmand blessing! Boldest of the Epices de la Passion trio, this made me glad I purchased the coffret. They decided to sell the other two as single standing scents (so far), but it was a terrible mistake to add this as part of the L'Artisan full-bottle selections. L'Artisan truly evokes "right brained" sensations that really should be reckoned with. It creates an excitement and a gladness that I've actually tried L'Artisan to "educate" me in olfactory expression and appreciation.