Perfume Reviews

Positive Reviews of Numero Uno by Carthusia

Total Reviews: 12
One swears there is a predominance of oak moss in this chypre, but neither it nor its enforced substitute are present in the note tree. I am reminded of great masculine chypres of the past, such as Aramis and Great Jones. The combination of sweet and bitter elements balanced together is the significant identifier of this type of scent.

It keeps seesawing between fougere and chypre, but finally comes down on the chypre side in its dry down. Although Carthusia only lists four notes, other reviewers on these pages have suggested an even dozen more in their olfactory responses.

It's a very fine masculine, not in your face like some of the 80s powerhouses it resembles, but dry and subtle, sophisticated, in the background, as a scent should be. I am eager now to try Carthusia's Uomo.
22nd August, 2016
Dark green herbs & spices...

This is a nice woody "chypre" style fragrance. I like it a lot! It has just enough spice and kick to keep it interesting and with character.

I want to say it's a "mossy" fragrance... but there's no oakmoss listed in the notes. Instead, there are a selection of many different dry green herbs and labdanum, which gives this a rustic, bitter and green feel. The real component that sets it apart is the orange note... and the orange here is paired up with the background bitter, moss-like herbs to give it an overall masculine feel.

This really is like Guerlain - Mitsouko but with an orange note. However Mistouko is sweeter overall. I also think this that Numero Uno is more bitter, and therefore more masculine. I would say this is Mitsouko but mixed with Terre d'Hermès. It has a rugged, "dirty" or "mossy" orange... amongst all the Mediterranean herbs and spices. I think it's a very good choice for men.

This is definitely one that more men should check out. The price (for a niche house) is not so high as other brands. It's a fragrance which evokes the masculine styles of the past (the fougères and mossy chypres of the past) but with a unique modern twist (the orange note). Very wearable. I would say try rather than buy before trying. Very nice though, worth a look.
14th December, 2014
Genre: Chypre

Carthusia’s Numero Uno is an soapy green citrus chypre in a deliberately retro style that has its roots in mid-twentieth century masculines like Chanel pour Monsieur and Monsieur de Givenchy. It differs from its precursors in being at once more sweetly fruity on top and more bitter-soapy at its core. The exaggerated discrepancy between fruit and cleansing agent may have been intended as a kind of olfactory chiaroscuro, but if so the “modernist” gesture leaves Numero Uno’s structure feeling less integral than its older cousins from Chanel and Givenchy.

Lemon, bergamot, petitgrain and lavender dominate the opening, with moss, geranium, clary sage and patchouli notes sliding in underneath to provide the foundation. A mellow labdanum-seasoned amber base note rounds out the chypre structure and anchors the bittersweet resinous drydown. While Numero Uno may not hang together as well as older citrus chypres – Cristalle, Chanel pour Monsieur and Monsieur Givenchy included – I credit Carthusia for introducing a new fragrance in this style. The fragrance works well as a revival, though I’ll still reach for the reissued Monsieur de Givenchy when I want a soapy green citrus chypre.
21st June, 2014
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A huge fragrance, bold and distinguished. Its initially (barely) dirty and exotic (spices and ylang-ylang?) floral musk on the side of the grassy, camphoraceous, aromatic and ambery patchouli conjures me a bit the classic Aramis although the latter is more spicy-animalic while Numero Uno is in my opinion more bright, fine, slightly boozy (the bitter orange effect) and finally clean. Something in the air smells like a far less massive, animalic and thick sort of Mazzolari Lui (camphor, musk, ambery patchouli, vetiver, some floral element ect.). The combination of violet leaves, lavender, aromatic herbs (thyme, rosemary) and bitter orange (i mean the finest part of the blend) produces a complex fruity-floral whirl complemented by elegant patchouli and grassy vetiver over a cool musky-mossy base with a touch of ambergris and sandalwood. The outcome is smooth and floral with a featuring fruity-boozy patchouli, a touch of exoticism, elements of classic austerity and a spicy-rooty and ambery (sharp amber)  spark swirling  in the air. One of the best around.
14th May, 2012
Occasionally I tire of the mass of aquatics and citrus scents that I smell on the men around me. Discovering Numero Uno was a nice change, something unique and pleasing.

Numero Uno is quite herbaceous, but not in an overly green sense. It has this deliciously smooth and soothing blend of herbs, with the lavender in particular giving it that dreamy feel.

I bought a sample of this for my boyfriend to wear and I absolutely adored it. I liked it not because it was sexy, or because it was particularly bold, I found myself attracted to its friendliness. It made him smell so approachable and cuddly. It actually makes a wonderful bed-time scent.

Some might say that this is a fragrance for older men, but I disagree. I also think despite its rather masculine scent, a woman could also wear this. The subtle, powdery violet in the heart makes it a tad unisex.

Sharp notes of orange only feature for a few seconds in the opening. I get a lot of rosemary, lavender, patchouli, violet, musk and myrrh in this fragrance. The eucalyptus note is there, but I can't guarantee that you'll smell like the Australian bushland with this fragrance, although it does have a rugged feel to it.

The longevity is wonderful, however the sillage is rather soft, hence the reason why I find this a pleasing bed-time scent. Numero Uno is not for everyone but it's worth a try.
14th April, 2012
Gorgeous soapy chypre. There is something striking and hugely appealing about the cool, soapy quality created by a woody bitter orange, camphorous herbs and violet in Numero Uno. The chypre base of moss and patchouli gives a damp underpinning, but it’s the particular floral/herbal accord that defines Numero Uno from start to finish. A first cousin to Chanel Pour Monsieur’s chypre on one side and Grey Flannel’s violet-orange fougère on the other.
22nd March, 2011
This was such a surprise! I feel apologetic for not liking No Uno, simply because it is one of the finest fragrances in the market! The fact that I am not fond of coniferous fragrances doesn't make this any less of a great and potent fragrance. No Uno is a very elegant and well made fragrance which lasts and lasts. It is olfactory, in an old gentleman way, and I am impressed by its longevity. Money well spent on this one for those of you who have a taste for sparkly cypress that doesn't dissolve into thin air.
15th August, 2010
Carthusia Numero Uno

Laura Tonatto undertook the task of creating perfumes for Carthusia back in 2006 and Numero Uno was released in 2007. Ms. Tonatto has created a very masculine chypre which develops in a fairly traditional way but holds true to what I think she was trying to accomplish. The top of Numero Uno is a classic, some might say ubiquitous, mix of citrus and lavender as a tart orange note is cut with lavender. This is the opening of many scent journeys and there are no new revelations made in this one just a competent opening salvo which is well-executed. It is in the heart where things get interesting as it is here where Ms. Tonatto chooses to amp up the herbal character of the scent by making thyme the central note but pairs it with ylang-ylang and a camphor note to give the heart of this a vaporous beauty that is unique as it revolves from aromatic herbal to lush floral to the iciness of camphor. This makes for a beautiful heart of this scent. The base is back on common ground as vetiver, patchouli and a hint of musk bring this back to familiar surroundings. For a man looking for a masculine chypre I think Numero Uno could be just the ticket.
25th April, 2009
JaimeB Show all reviews
United States
A chypre of unusually masculine character. In spite of the inclusion of ylang-ylang in the formula, this isn't remotely a stereotypical feminine scent in feeling. It may be the one note that rings false in this chime; it seems out of place with the more herbal floral of lavender, and certainly with eucalyptus and the other herbals. In conjunction with the musk, the sweet floral makes this scent a bit powdery at first, although that impression diminishes after the first twenty minutes or so. Then it blends more smoothly into the rest of the formula and largely loses the powdery aspect. This fragrance took a little getting used to for me, but once past the rough spot, I now like it quite a bit. In the end, it comes out as a slyly suave and even slightly rakish bit of work, the sort of thing to wear when one is in the mood for fun and a little taste of the offbeat in life.
05th August, 2008
I tried this a few days ago. It was an interesting scent. Not the best I have ever smelled - but it was interesting enough to try again and maybe buy later on. I recommend you try it. Thumbs up for now.
27th February, 2007
Along with "mucho macho" I would add, with a heart of gold.
Notes include: bergamot, Sicilian orange, lavender, thyme, eucalyptus, violet, ylang-ylang, patchouli, vetiver, myrrh and white musk.
This juice is fantastico! As with Carthusia Uomo, this is not in your face Italian. It's more like a subtle, yet convincing, come hither look (scent).
The citrus/herbaceous opening is truly head-spinning yet controlled. Shortly thereafter, the myrrh note appears. This note's role transports the somewhat linear, yet unique whole into its woody and musky drydown. I am not a fan of some musks, but this slightly soapy one works for me. I don't get much of the eucalyptus or vetiver in this composition. They're present but only as supporting roles. The main green/herb note appears to be thyme. The violet-ylang, heart accord is what makes Numero Uno special per me.
It has been compared to chypres like Parfums de Nicolaï, New York and Chanel, Pour Monsieur. I prefer Numero Uno because of its more natural and brighter aspects. If tenacity is very important to you, I would choose another. If natural, unique and transcendental are your thing, go for it.
07th October, 2006
My pic from this Italian nunnery or monastery or whatever it is. Lot of Rosemary going on here, but the accompanying ingredients prevent it from biting the shit out of you. Mucho Macho. Can't wait to try Uomo.
24th June, 2004