Reviews

Neutral Reviews of Tubéreuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

Ten minutes of powerful orange blossom plus mentholic nutmeg, followed by soft tuberose plus a bit of jasmine and even less hyacinth, with the orange blossom still persisting. Given all of the reading that I did about this perfume before sampling it, I am surprised that I do not have more to say about it, but I really do not have more to say about it. It is a GOOD perfume, not special, not magical, not profound...just good. It certainly does not intrigue me like Carnal Flower or even Fracas does.
30th December, 2012 (last edited: 12th January, 2013)
l get the "petrochemical" opening described by so many others here, but to my nose it's not quite gasoline, or rubber, or disinfectant, or menthol, but strongly wintergreen. lt's also not as overpowering as l was expecting. This subsides over the first thirty minutes, & it settles into a pretty white floral with just a hint of a dark undercurrent. ln the heart l get lily, jasmine & orange blossom, but no tuberose at all! There's something cold about this fragrance; not the "florist's fridge" coolness of Carnal Flower, but something else... lt also lacks the brash seductiveness that l love about Fracas. l expected a Big White Floral on steroids, but this is a rather quiet fragrance, & like other Lutens l've tried, severely lacking in projection. Three hours in it fades to a sweetish, slightly leafy vanilla skin scent, & six hours after application it's barely detectable.
l'm happy l got to try this, but for me it doesn't come close to my favourite tuberoses that l've already mentioned here. My search for "my" tuberose is already complete.
21st November, 2012
The archteype Lutens, imo.
Sweet and sliceable thick, more rose than you can get by other means.
a refined and precise extraction of roses, but a bit too present and monotonous from my angle.
Maybe one of the friendliest fragrances out there.
But don't play hide and seek wearing this scent, they'll hunt you down in a second.
25th December, 2011
I think the note that everyone is objecting to is a hefty clunk of Methyl Salicylate; that medicated Oil of Wintergreen note found in all sorts of muscle rubs. There is some Methyl Sal in natural Tuberose, just not that much. Once all that dies down, all that is left is a rapidly fading white floral. I was somewhat unimpressed
24th August, 2009
Starts out with a strong note of iodine followed by the sharp rubber scent of brand new steel belted radial tires. No kidding! Smells like I'm in the tire store one minute and then in a hospital testing lab the next. Wafting up from behind this very clinical industrial odor is a sweet exotic floral. It's tuberose, a bit of orange blossom and jasmine with an unexpected friendly base note of soft vanilla. It's Nurse Rachet with a big "yes I know" grin. Tuberose Criminelle is exotic and sort of dangerous. I can see how someone would enjoy wearing this fragrance but it would be a guilty pleasure for sure.
06th February, 2009
Not even having often read it about it prepares you for the initial menthylated vapour rub. When you smell it you remember that Lutens thinks Genet is a great writer, and how wrong he is to think that - like Genet, it's punishingly overstated and has less to say than you would think from all the fuss it makes. The odour of incinerated alkie takes a long while to die back. You keep hoping something sweeter will come of it, like good out of a wasted life, and, with great reluctance, like most addicts, it slowly blossoms but the menthol barracuda is always there just beneath the surface lush. It’s more an Aesop’s fable than a scent, it dies down very mild and sweet as if ideally rehabilitated. Notes: tuberose, orange blossom, hyacinth, jasmine, musk, vanilla, styrax, nutmeg, clove – which only goes to show how little ‘notes’ tell a lay-person because nothing in that list would lead you to guess remotely what the opening is like.
01st July, 2008
linnea Show all reviews
United States
This fragrance was quite an experience. When I put it on, it smelled like Dr. Pepper and Root Beer soda! Very sweet and very surprising! As it dried down a thick, heavy earth accord was very noticeable. Like damp, wet earth. I did not detect any of the other notes that some Basenoters have been describing. On my skin, the sweet floral was interwoven with the dark earthiness. It's an interesting fragrance, but not for me.
19th February, 2007
I love tuberose...but not when it's mixed with Denorex coal tar shampoo. I even waved my wrist under my husband's nose to make sure I wasn't imagining the coal tar, and he confirmed my reaction. I don't want someone to catch a whiff of my expensive perfume and assume that I have a severe dandruff problem!! It's too bad, because the scent of tuberose that shines through the Denorex is quite pretty. Definitely one of the more interesting fragrances out there.
20th October, 2005