Acqua di Parma Profumo is an exquisitely poised powdery-dry floral chypre. It’s slightly sweeter and softer than Givenchy III, with a creamy iris note that brings to mind Chanel’s 31 Rue Cambon. The Acqua di Parma is drier and lighter than the Chanel however, and also more obviously floral in its heart. It’s definitely not the dark chypre of Mitsouko or Baghari. Indeed, there is a luminous quality to this scent that I find irresistible. Acqua di Parma Profumo even induces in me that rare wistful sense - so close to heartbreaking - that I experience with Apres l’Ondee and En Passant.
Acqua di Parma Profumo is simply a beautiful thing, a scent that embodies classical perfection: nothing could be added, nor anything removed, that would not diminish it. While it could, I suppose, be unisex, it seems to me so delicately pretty that it belongs on a woman. But there perhaps I’m just being sexist. I suggest anybody with a serious interest in fragrance give this a try. Whether you ultimately want to wear it or not, it’s an outstanding example of balance and proportion in perfume composition.
When we tread somewhere with angels at our side.
In the Summer of 1995 the Galleria degli Uffizi in Florence was undergoing some restoration and a big part of the artworks was not for visitation. One says "oh, no" for who knows when it's going to be, if ever, it the next time in the City of the Medici. Anyway, making the most of it there I went following the pre organized way to the gallery. I came to a point in which I had to open a door. It was dark on the other side. I took some time to adjust my eyes to the dim light and then saw a guard at the other end of the room, a small bench near the centre and, covering almost the whole wall, magnificent in inderect light, in air conditioned temperature, Sandro Botticelli's The Birth of Venus. Not knowing the real actual size of the painting, I was completely took by surprse, a very good surprise. There was the bench. I could sit and admire, for as long as I liked. There were few Japanese tourists in those days, in the 90's.
Well, that's the feeling of smelling Profumo for the first time. I mean the 2000 Profumo, EDP, in the burgandy hard box. Although the Acqua di Parma scent is very close to Guerlain Mitsouko, the notes presented here must be just the heart ones, or any other good chypre, one thing makes it apart from the others, even from my beloved Miss M. Profumo is dense, thick and full body like an aged and refined ruby port. It feels heavy, but it'snot its own fault, we are too used to watery transparent scents of our times. Also, Profumo makes me have a glimpsy of what the old classics, like Mitsouko, smelt like then, when they were all like young vampires. Profumo is buttery, and as such one feels it could be cut in slices, to be spread onto the skin instead of spraying it. It is like seeing face to face, a painting you saw so many times in books and magazines, in films, just to realise it is much more than whatever you had dreamed before. Profumo brings voices from the past to deaf ears of the present. It takes a lot of sensitiveness to appreciate Beauty, as Italians are able to do so well.
Although I think they belong to the same genre, and therefore smell alike, Mitsouko and AdP Profumo stand on their own feet. I love both. And I am a man.
Smooth, sensuous, and sumptuous are words that come to mind whenever I wear this. To my nose, it's more of an oriental than a true chypre; my bottle dates to the 1970s so possibly the formulation has changed since then.
Utterly feminine and gently insistent---others will notice your fragrance but never feel overwhelmed by it. The florals take center stage throughout the development. No one flower stands out; they're beautifully blended into a homogenous mixture of softness and depth. I notice the ambery note in the heart more than the labdanum; I think that is what keeps the fragrance from being too sweet. The woody basenotes are equally smooth and blended. Absolutely lovely drydown that seems to last forever.
Sillage is moderate and longevity is excellent, over 12 hours on my skin. Wearable for any occasion, I think, but especially for romantic nights out.
Pros: Smooth, rich, complex, long lasting
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When reviewing this, it must be made clear whether you're talking about the vintage or reformulated version. The vintage has an old-school chypre structure, complete with citrus in the opening and oakmoss peeking it's head out througout the middle and the drydown! I'm wearing it now and it is nowhere near a powdery white floral. The vintage version is so close to Mitsouko that if you like Mitsouko, you'll love vintage Acqua Di Parma Profumo. It's terribly hard to find in full bottles,and when you do, it's more expensive than the reformulated version, which I've seen for as much as $250 or more! However, there are lots of 5 ml minis avalable on ebay. Look for the Burgundy-colored box that's usually pictured beside it.
Huge, billowy, orchestral floral which demands a carpet unrolling in front of every step the wearer takes. The floral notes are so well-blended that they give rise to all sorts of permutations over the hours this lasts – starting from a gorgeous vendange tardive gewürztraminer opening that morphs into luscious plum to varied pink and white floral bouquets. They don't make them like this anymore and therein a caveat: this is full-on, old-fashioned perfume-making, a world away from bland fruity-florals or lightsteppers, and can appear somewhat behind the times. Don't care much for the old makeup note that inhabits the drydown, but there is plenty of glorious floral cover to make me overlook it. Stately.
I don't know for certain whether this is new or vintage, but some of the reviews I've read suggest I must have an older version. A very powerful opening that smells almost masculine on me, followed by some lovely florals and (the best part for a chypre lover) a fantastic mossy drydown that goes on forever. If only it weren't so expensive I would enjoy it every day.
The 2008 version which I bought today is wonderful...I had been looking for a fragrance which could be worn as an alternative to Misouko - and this is the one. Very soft, a chypre in cosy colours, no harsh notes, just a lovely, envelopping veil of easy plushness. Profumo is neither loud nor ultra-innovative. I fell in love with it and think it is very versatile and elegant. My husband is delighted with it, too.
The original Profumo was very good but this one is even more so. I prefer the new version. Sweet fruit - light floral chypre to begin - if you love Mitsouko and The Party In Manhattan then you will love this one too. Dries down a clean woody clean clear cut chypre. Excellence !
01st September, 2010 (last edited: 20th January, 2011)
(This is for the 2008 version). What a lovely chypre fragrance. Kinda old fashioned in feel with its floral, slightly powdery notes (glad they kept some parts true to ther original) but absolutely very feminine and classy. I don't smell too much bergamot or anything sharp and didn't find the drydown too woody. But that could just be how the scent works with my body chemistry. Really worth trying. Too bad it's so outrageously expensive or it'd be mine right away.
This is a review for the reformulation which was done in 2008 by Nathalie Lorson. This new version is like Rochas Femme having undergone the same treatment as, say, Diorella did in Amouage's Jubi 25. It smells like a Roudnitska classic but reinterpreted for Cleopatra. It's got that whole ancient vibe about it that you still get in attars from the Mid-East (am thinking in particular of Amouage Ohood), but it's lightened up so that the fragrance breathes. Mature, feminine, classic.
Green and floral chypres have been my 'thing' lately, and Profumo is one of the best I've come across. There is a distinct rose/plum topnote grafted onto the chypre structure that is simply fantastic. It is similar in style to Guerlain's discontinued Parure, but it's not as bright and cheery as Parure. After about 30-40 minutes the rosey/plumy notes fade and a long drawn-out oakmoss drydown emerges that meanders for hours. This may be one of the best oakmoss bases of any fragrance made today. There is an elegance and stateliness to Profumo that must be experienced. Many re-issues of classic fragrances are nothing but pale reflections of their former selves, but this is one that could easily confuse for a 30s era fragrance. Excellent and required for chypre fans. A Neimans SA told me there is a reformulated version now available (because of oakmoss restrictions? She didn't say). I can't attest to the newest version.
On a side note, the presentation is fantastic. The bottles sits in a pedestal base with a slot for the bulb sprayer attachment. The art-deco ribbed glass bottle - sans label - is one of the best looking on my shelf.
If John Sargent Singer's 'Madame X' could wear a perfume, Profumo would be her choice. An elegant chypre that was reformulated from the 1930 original in 2008. It is perhaps one of the loveliest chypres on the market and the best reformulation of a classic (ok along with Visa by Piguet) Brava!
Marvelous chypre. Profumo does for chypre what Joy did for florals. An amazing super accord of flowers, resin, wood, and aromatic herbs. Predictably a bit overwhelming on first application but the drydown is that of a classic chypre, very sophisticated and intriguing yet perfectly behaved. Take it to the opera.
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There is SO much going on here! Profumo almost changes minute-to-minute. For the most part, I love it - delicious chypre with florals and spices (especially cinnamon) playing around the edges and coming forward to take a bow over the course of dry-down. One of the few perfumes with a somewhat powdery base that I actually adore anyway.
This immediately informs me that I am dealing with something of extraordinary character. A genuine classic women’s chypre: Acqua di Parma Profumo opens as many of these classic chypres do: with a powerful blast of alcohol and civet that can be very disarming if it is not expected. As the opening quickly quiets down, Acqua di Parma Profumo exhibits its classic constitution with the refined citrus / herb opening. The top notes are elegant and sensual. They do not last long and are quickly followed by heart florals and spices in beautiful balance. The dry down is so wonderfully chypre and sensual. The subtle smokiness is what totally wins me over—the perfect refining touch. This fragrance comes off rather strong when first smelled close to the skin, but it really doesn’t throw a lot of sillage, and, as it progresses to the dry down, it becomes more and more delicate and understated. I find Profumo to be a very sensual fragrance because of its chypre nature. For those like me who love chypres, Acqua di Parma Profumo is an excellent one whose longevity leaves much to be desired, but it still supplies abundant satisfaction.
29th October, 2006 (last edited: 28th May, 2011)
I've worn this, and I think it's perfectly suitable for a man to wear for a special evening out. The chypre accord is based on the oakmoss, and the florals are not overpowering, but balanced with the spicy notes, making just the right combination to be flattering on a man. So, guys: Don't be shy! Try this one; it's elegant and sensual at the same time!
A good example of the fact that stronger & more often just wrecks a good thing. Instead of the zesty, fresh & beautiful combo of citrus, rose and light herbs in the EDC and mint in the Assoluta-rendition the perfume version OD's on everything. The result is an overly dry, stuffy and unrefined chypre. Strong? - Sure. Elegant, pleasant & worthwhile - Not even close. Ironically I even find the bottle inferior to the ones of the lighter formulations.
Note: I used to adore this fragrance, even though it was fairly sneezy. But since becoming more sensitive to aldehydes, I can't wear it anymore.
This fragrance took my breath away. It is a beautiful chypre from start to finish. There wasn't one wrong note in the entire formulation. I consider this Acqua Di Parma's masterpiece, rather than their more well-known EDC's.
One partial list of notes I found online - Top Notes: bergamot, bitter orange, petitgrain, lavender, sage Mid notes: honeysuckle, neroli, jasmine, ylang-ylang, iris, rose, cinnamon, clove, cardamom Base notes: amber, sandalwood, oakmoss, frankincense, cedar. But that's just partial. It boasts over 300 ingredients. This parfum is loaded to such a degree, that only skill could have brought it all together.
It smells like rough smokey Gardenia on my skin - sultry, classy, sensuous, cerebral. If you're a Chypre person, you owe yourself a sample of this. I bow to its beauty, and intelligence of construction. Profumo is really what perfumes are all about - why we buy them, why we love them.
14th November, 2005 (last edited: 31st July, 2011)