This begins for me as a dark, bitter amber, which after ten minutes lightens to let in the gourmand chocolate effect, enhanced by the three spices (ginger, clover, cinnamon).
There is an oud-like bitterness that may be a raw patchouli. It dries down to a dusty, old incense vibe, as if one entered a monastery on a hot August day, months since any incense had been used, but catching the smoke-drenched tapestries in the sun.
I find it rather unpleasant.
I love the use of amber in hundreds of other scents, but find its use here creating a minimalist effect that is off-putting.
It wears close to the skin and that is a good thing.
A pleasant spicy-sweet oriental, Ambre Soie opens with a blast but quickly fades to a whisper. Like most other Armani Privés, it starts off as very heavy and complex, but (unlike the others) this one seems to almost wear itself out in its initial full-force scream, all too soon turning back on itself to, surprisingly quickly, almost disappear. The scent itself is pleasant enough – a gorgeous amber with spices (cloves, pepper), a fair bit of patchouli, a dusty cocoa-like element, and a very interesting anise note. However, I get considerably more chocolate than amber from this, and it is precisely the anise and its dynamic interference with the main theme that finally saves Ambre Soie from becoming simply cloying and too much. Overall development is limited and remarkably linear. The result is a good safe scent with an interesting composition and very easy wearability.
In many ways, I consider it one of the best Armani Privés primarily because it manages to avoid becoming too oppressively heavy and pompous, an unfortunate problem that I think haunts too many fragrances in that particular line. However, given its steep price point and limited development and longevity, I find Ambre Soie ultimately rather uninspiring and quite far away from the truly great ambers out there (like Ambre Préciuex, Ambra Mediterranea, Ambre Fétiche, Ambre Nuit, Ambre Russe, etc.).
Note: This review is based on the original 50 ml version in the wooden box packaging, not the current 100 ml glass bottle. I am not aware if any reformulations were introduced along with the packaging redesign.
On my skin this develops into an unusually light and bright ginger with amber, with a spicy patchouli added; later cloves round it off. The amber is in the foreground but the other notes blend in and do so very well. Smooth, neither harsh nor dark, with good silage and projection and six hours of longevity. Great on a sunnier autumn day, this is one of GA's best.
Advertisement — Reviews continue below
the longer i have this one, the more i really appreciate it. it seemed quite simple & linear at first but repeated wearings (across all seasons) have slowly revealed a very subtle yet complex interaction of amber, anise & patchouli. very classy, low-key and cozy as hell. it's a very different patchouli than 1834, closer to coromandel with all edges gone. it's extremely well made and i love this subtle/minimalist take on these notes. true, longevity is on the short side, but spraying fabric is the answer there. lovely juice!
Yep. Amber all the way through but too meek. Almost apologetic. Spices up top, particuarly anise and patchouli coming through in the dry down but this is the second from the Privé collection where I have been underwhelmed by the staying power of the juice. Three hours and it's gone.
ln the opening l get the anise note, which stays all the way through, along with patchouli. lt quickly becomes gourmandish, without ever becoming too sweet. Ginger & a praline-type note give it a very biscuit-like quality, which is quite delicious yet elegant. lt gets nuttier as it dries down, fading to a skin scent after 3 hours, & there's a little smokiness in the base.
This doesn't give the impression of being an amber fragrance in the usual sense, being neither piney & resinous nor densely sweet & vanillary. l would say it's more of a gourmand, classy enough to be taken seriously at the office. l expected better longevity, given it's high price, but l will be decanting my sample into a spray vial & giving it another chance.
It’s a spicy amber with a definite patchouli element. The sweet spices – I get mainly anise, cinnamon, and a clovey carnation – are quite translucently presented and they seem to shadow the stronger amber foundation with supporting patchouli and cedar: It’s quite a nice effect. The whole fragrance is light, and has meager sillage. I rather like the lightness, the translucency of Armani Privé Ambre Soie, but I have a difficult time wrapping my mind about this being a super premium fragrance. I’m afraid that it just doesn’t exhibit the uniqueness, the creativity that it should for that category – a nice fragrance, nevertheless.
Ambre Soie is not only my favorite of the Armani Privé fragrances, but also my favorite amber. The anise note appeals to me particularly and distinguishes it from other amber perfumes I have smelled. It lacks the food associations of Ambre Narguilé and the heavy vanilla of Ambre Sultan, qualities which make those two less appealing to me. Although Ambre Soie is expensive, a little goes a long way. I will probably never need a second bottle as I do not wear it often compared to my soliflores, but if something happened to this bottle, I would definitely replace it. Thumbs up!
Herbal amber. Clove and cinnamon really comes out at first and gets to be ginger cedarwoods towards the end. The amber is just the stuff that binds all this together. Gourmandish and almost like a cinnamon and praline confectionery with cloves added.
I enjoy amber fragrances very much and to me, Ambre Soie is very different from any I've tried so far. On me, Ambre Soie starts off deliciously gourmand, with an almost boozy oatmeal cookie effect, complete with raisins, cinnamon and a hint of anise and clove. The spices in Ambre Soie are rendered so seemlessly, so dense and finely ground into a luxuriously silky "powder", that they create an indistinguishable bond with the amber so as to make it impossible for me to discern one from the other. Linear, lasts several hours, and I assume based on compliments received that it projects fairly well. I received this during the whole discount store Armani Prive sale madness and for that reason, I occasionally overlook it, but it is really an incredibly gorgeous, luxuriously textured fragrance.
Its a pretty nice sweet amber but there is a slight tart note maybe clove as another suggested that kinda kills it for me. I prefer SL Ambre Sultan though this isn't a bad amber.
Vegetal ambre, not sweet enough for my personal preference. (My favorite ambres are Ambre Extreme by L'Artisan and Ambre Precieux by Maitre Parfumeur Gantier.) This may be a better masculine ambre.
Armani Prive Ambre Soie
I have slowly but surely worked my way through all of the Armani Prive scents. I admire the intent to make high quality, read niche, scents under the Armani banner. On me for the most part they have been successful as I have enjoyed most of them. I have found all of them to be close wearing, long-lasting and well-constructed scents. Ambre Soie was the fourth of the Prives, created by Christine Nagel, in 2004. It definitely shares all of the genetics of its labelmates. At the top a stiff burst of ginger, clove and cinnamon start this with a spicy jolt. From there the amber begins to come in and of the three spices that start the scent only the cinnamon remains to combine really nicely with the amber. This is a sweet amber and in conjunction with the cinnamon it comes across as not too sweet and not as gourmand-like as some other ambers like Hermes Hermessence Ambre Narguile. As this moves into the base I get a nice bracing shot of cedar to add some clean lines to the amber and to finish things in a rousing style. Like all of the Prives there are better examples out there of the central note and style of these scents. Ambre Soie will not be my number one amber scent but it very likely will make my top 10.
Advertisement — Reviews continue below
This is my favorite of the Prive edp line. This is a unique take on amber and not at all overpowering or overly intense. It's creamy and warm and really addicting. Very nicely done on this one.
the first of the Armani Privés I tried and by a long way the best. It’s a simple-minded little stud-muffin, amber cloved up a bit with also some very dry patchouli in it that smells of dusted chocolate. It layers brilliantly with less sweet ambers like Artisan Parfumeur Ambre Extrême and this is how I wear it when I want to resemble a caramel in a tuxedo. The nose is Christine Nagel, by the way.
I'll put my cards on the table upfront. I really don't like amber! However, I will do my best to objectively report on this scent.
I find this to be very sweet, rather buttery syrup of a scent. It is amber-laden. I don't find anything remotely dry or resinous about it, it is certainly quite unlike the magnificent Bois D'Encens which is a great dry-resinous scent. The spices are just a spicy and rather vague melange rather than distinct elements. The patchouli tang is apparent. I can't see any connection to L'Eau Trois, other than that the two scents are powerful.
I can't even give this a neutral rating, but I have attempted to describe it carefully. Amber fans, give it a try.
A decent amber with a little bit of dry patchouli, but hardly the best. Too sweetened for my taste, and something about it is slightly nauseating.
I'm usually the first to foul Armani for most everything (ubiquitous AdG, overpriced, poor quality suits, etc etc etc), so wasn't I surprised to smell this one. Love him or hate him, he really did something right with this. If I could afford it, this would be my staple evening, amber-based scent. It's classy, luxurious, and (as the name suggests), very silky and smooth, and smells like a million bucks. When I first read the name, I wondered how much more could be done with Amber, given the hundreds of scents (designer and niche) that use it in abundance.
But, unlike most Armani, it holds its own and is quite unique (another that I'd put in the same universe, albeit less interesting, is Parfum d'empire Ambre Russe). Unfortunately, at twice the price of Lutens or other niche, the Prive is hard to justify except for use on special occasions, which is about the only time I pull out my small bottle. DEFINITELY worth a try; a decant if you're on a budget, a full bottle if you've got the cash to burn.
This is a positively luxurious scent. Sweet, but not overly so. Try this layered with the Bois de Encens' it will knock your socks off. P.S. I have also found that layering these two fragrance adds more silliage and lasting power.
Ambre Soie (French for "Amber Silk") is composed of amber, patchouli, cinnamon, clove and ginger. A simple scent, really, warm and spicey, with a sweet edge, Ambre Soie reminds me of Zuko Senko or Japanese Body Incense (click Zuko). The opening is rich and spicey - all of the notes announce their presence together - but there is little development from this point. This is a dry, resinous fragrance that stays close to the skin as would fit its name though the composition itself does nothing to conjure images of silk. Overall, I'm reminded of Guerlain's Heritage - if Guerlain created a Heritage light and charged 4 times the current price, this would be it. The scent does last well on my skin, still there like an echo after 6 hours and this is one of the first amber-based scents that I don't find overly-cloying or overpowering. The addition of the spices conjures images of a dry Saharan landscape, and Indian market or a Japanese temple depending on your mind's associations.
Now, I've read that price was no limit and that supposedly natural essences were blended with synthetic ones in an attempt to capture perfectly the smells of Northern Africa that so enchanted Armani. For fans of scents like Dyptique's L'Eau Trois or Comme des Garcons' Eau de Parfum, this scent will be warmly recieved. This is nothing like L'Artisan's Ambre Extreme or MPG's Ambre Precieux - both sweet, full-bodied, powdery ambers. For those who find these types of ambers too much, Armani Ambre Soie will also be a welcome surprise.