This is in my opinion a less floral and darker version of the renowned Eau du Soir Sisley, i mean a more shadowy one due to a developed presence of sandalwood, spices, moss and patchouli. This one is a classic green-floral-honeyed chypre, more stressed on the side of oakmoss than on the one of woods, a scent with an obscure, almost salty (and anyway deeply opaque), floral-laundry wake over shadowed by muguet, patchouli and jasmine. Here the flowers are darker. A more present rose is starring and sinister and, in its chord with mimosa, bergamot, iris, musk-moss and honey, develops a deeply soapy, fruity (peaches) and laundry effect that is overly shadowed by jasmine, pepper, patchouli and muguet and pushed up in attractiveness by the insertion of animal civet on the flank of honey, luxurious peach and amber. The duo iris-jasmine imprints sophistication to the general laundry atmosphere but is not enough to balance the modern charm with a may be too stressed traditional, british style, soapy-detergent laundry feel which stereotype this fragrance is a lot anchored to. The final issue is a classy, for sure, but may be too neutral, old school, soapy concoction, heavy in moss, rose, honey and mimosa while Eau du Soir is a bit more bright, luxurious and sophisticated.
12th December, 2011 (last edited: 17th December, 2011)
Soir de Lune is a throwback to a genre whose heyday was the 1970s-1980s: the heavy rose chypre. Maybe it's a tribute, maybe it’s an attempt to revive a faded genre, but it lands squarely in the company of Ungaro’s Diva, Sherrer’s Scherrer, Lauder’s Knowing, even Paloma Picasso’s Paloma. It’s often compared to L’Arte di Gucci, which I’ve never tried.
It is as substantial as the others in the genre, but not as pleasing. It comes off as strong but simple, blanketing but not shadowy like the best of the rose chypres. I can’t actually say the balances are entirely off, but they aren’t inspired. The moss seems forceful but not deep. The citrus topnotes don’t lead into the rest of the perfume. The spices don’t lend richness. The rose is…well, it’s there.
SdL doesn’t reach the heights of the genre that its predecessors did. Perhaps its failings are due to the restrictions on ingredients that made the older rose chypres so robust and full. Fortunately, the chypre genre is forgiving, and while not breathtaking, SdL is not unattractive from any angle.
This scent smells expensive and its monster sillage and longevity make sure that you don't forget it. But this heavy rose like the other heavy-weight floral scent, Patou's Joy, just do sit too well on a man's skin. I respect it but I can't wear it- it wears me.