Reading its description, I held high hopes for Sienne d'Hiver. Smoke, liquor, leather - what's there not to like? The opening fed my optimism, since the smoke and leather were right up front, along with some mysterious green notes.
Then, about a half an hour into the development, I started catching a conspicuous sour note that I couldn't quite place. What could it be? I went back for a look at the note pyramid, and there it was: olives! Green olives, with pimientos in them. The effect was sharp and jarring, and soon began to remind me of Tabasco sauce - the way it smells when you stick your nose right up to the bottle. As for the truffle, if it's in there it gets steamrollered by the green olive/Tabasco accord. Too bad, because black truffle, used correctly, would be one heck of a fragrance note!
Sienne d'Hiver left me baffled and disappointed. I see no reflection of the beautiful old Tuscan city in this brew.
Really wasn't my cup of tea that geranium leaf violet petals, and fern comes off as smelling like poison ivey.
I completely get the Dzongkha reference - the opening is very similar. Both have the odd effect (in common also with Magie Noire) of making me feel...not hungry exactly, but quite literally 'un buco allo stomaco'. Weird. Anyway, that aside, I find the development of this to be too vegetal for my tastes. Clever, yes, but not really what I want to smell of - chilli peppers, a slight smokiness, a touch of truffle perhaps - it's all great, but not for me (although possibly quite true to its name).
I also find it to be quite linear: after the opening blast dies down and the body of the scent comes through, it doesn't really go any further - 5 hours in and it's exactly the same as it started.
Great longevity though.
Purchased a sample and immediately thought of cocktail sauce (sorry). After trying it again, I went from negative to neutral in my estimation of the juice. If the idea here is to smell "different" this achieves that and then some, but if the idea is to actually smell good, which is my goal, this one isn't it. I cant give it a negative rating, but I can't say it is positive either. I wanted to love this one so much, but it just isn't my cup of tea.
An experimental game of contrasts.
A failure or a stroke of genius? The second option in my humble opinion, for sure. I tend to appreciate a lot such experimental type of fragrances and admire for sure the Bertrand Duchaufour's huge creativity. I suppose the perfumer's goal was by soon to create an olfactory contrast between an outdoors cold, humid and botanic atmosphere of mountain (fern, violet, ozone, olibanum, wet rocks effect etc) and an indoor cozy, comfortable and "culinary" ambience of the woody shelters erected on the hits of the stone alleys of mountain (truffles, beans, leather, chestnuts). The elements are magistrally combined all together. I detect by soon floral notes, humid earth, cedarwood, rubber, mineral molecules, stale air of grandmather bedroom, fungus of canteens, furs, iris and grass. I also detect the incensey vibe for sure and smell in the air some Dzongkha's callbacks even if to be sincere the first aroma jumped to my mind in a while after the first dab was the Petroleum's one (and some accents of Rosam), yes, i felt on my skin a sort of more fluidy, airy and light (floral) sort of HDP'one, probably because of those feels of wet leather, grass, vintage amber, cool air and wet concrete mixed together. I don't smell a particular smoky vibe while tend to feel the cold air and a standout gummy violet perfectly combined with olibanum, moulds, culinary conserves (olive, beans, truffle) and rubber in order to create a real moonshiny work of art for us. A fully deserved thumbs up.
Pros: Balanced and original.
Smells like excellent quality cocktail sauce with a gin martini on the side. Where's my shrimp?
Sienne L'Hiver by Eau d'Italie - One is initially treated to a rush of herbal greenness. The peppery verdancy of geranium leaf intermingles with the mowed grass, tinged with cucumber, of violet leaf. A faint sweetness from rushes and fern drift in the background. Transitioning to the heart, an animalic castoreum, with its mesmerizing salty, oily, sweaty, smoky and nutty aspects, bathes the greens in an exotic, abraded-leather aura. Iris root parades it woody floralcy, while white truffle imparts its strangely elegant, sulphuric nuances. And, frankincense flaunts its balsamic and faintly mineral, mystical aromatics. Segueing to the base, an intriguing wave of petrichor gives the illusion of raindrops spashing on cobblestones, while hay casts its sweetly warm and pungent character. Guaic wood infuses its rosy and faintly smoky woodiness. And, labdanum presents its resinous nuances of ambergris and incense, as well as tar and leather. A wondrous drydown ensues. A truly masculine scent, this well-blended and high-quality composition has radiating projection and very good longevity, about 10 hours.
Sienne L'Hiver pursues a graceful arc from briny leather, to Perrier-can iris, and descends many hours later on a wan violet leaf. With much aplomb the scent offers up a distinctive olive note – reminiscent not, thankfully, of anchoïade so much as a very dirty Martini. And while it's comparable to Dzongkha (L'artisan Parfumeur), another parched iris of Bertrand Duchaufour's from 2006, Sienne is cooler and more apparitional. But it is Duchaufour's earlier Timbuktu, with its smokey paper note and subliminal radiance, where the real similarity – of temperament – is to be found.
This is original, peculiar, captivating stuff. Now I just have to figure out how to wear it.
Sienne l'hiver: wow. I didn't think of Sienne, I didn't think of winter, when I sniffed SL'H. I didn't even know it was by my beloved Duchaufour. I just thought: WOW. How different, how unique, how original. Like a statue in a painting exibition. Something completely unexpected. Somethig completely new. Something good.
I'm very disappointed with Sienne L'hiver as it seemed to be Duchafour's masterpiece (as he said in an interview) I was expecting a lot. I love Bertand D and I have no other words than disappointment to desribe this scent. I live in tuscany, where i was born, and I can say there's absolutely nothing in this scent that reminds me of the place I live...sorry!
05th March, 2011 (last edited: 04th April, 2011)
I really wanted to like this but just couldn't get past the sour green olive note.
A close-up photograph of wet winter soil in a field, in a place where it never actually snows. Definitely Mediterranean but from a quite uncommon point of view. Yes, there are winters in this region, too. Quite insensible on me although it's a beautiful photograph. I guess it would be miraculous on the right woman.You see, no man can be that tender, and it requires a pinch of tenderness to complement this cold but lively soil.
Every time I wear it I get into depression.
I have it for two years and I hardly wear it 5 times.
Smells like white dead-nettle.
Do I like this? Not really. Would I wear it? No. But I have to give it thumbs up for originality and execution. It's completely unlike anything else I've tried.
My initial impression was of lychee. Actually, it reminds me of a particular food or beverage, but one that I wasn't quite able to place. A positive association nonetheless.
After reading the reviews here, I do smell the olive loud and clear, and that seems to be the best description. It doesn't seem to diminish for me over time; I still got a strong olive note several hours into the development.
Unconventional and complex, constantly transforming scent that succeeds more to evoke than to charm in a game of senses and memories. Once you come across the odd but brief (10 min.maximum) opening which is a blend of earthy and edible notes (reminds me of a minestrone soup mix) you get a nice heart of iris and musk. However the best is yet to come. The base is paved with moist soil and wood notes brought directly from the rainy Italian countryside. Not for everyone but still very nice.
The olive type note overwhelmed everything else and I had to scrub this one off. I could sense some other notes trying to struggle out, but it never happened. I can't imagine why this was created this way, unless they didn't test on all skin types. In any case, this is obviously a sample first fragrance. I can't speak to longevity or sillage because I had to get it off quickly, within the hour.
Dry, earthy booze. Way to hot in the spice department and smells like a Greek bazaar. I get a lot, and I mean a lot of the lovie scent from this. Olives and liquor. That's not something I enjoy smelling or wearing.
I bought a sale-price decant of this without having tried it! So it was a gamble! But i usually love earthy, truffley notes and wintery inspired perfumes - and the gamble paid off.
I expected it to be along the lines of a CB perfume, which I admire but often find them more evocative of a real-life smell rather than feeling like a 'perfume'. Whereas Sienne L'Hiver somehow managed to smell like a man-made scent whilst retaining all the earthly elements that it drew from. Very, very nice. I probably would not have bought if if i had sampled it first, but I am glad i have 8mls in my collection and will enjoy wearing it this winter!
Unusual. Sienne opens on a sweet-and-sour, very recognizable violet leaf note. I enjoy it in theory, but find it hard to actually *wear*, and that's one of the reasons I would not buy this, well constructed though it undoubtedly is. Violet leaf is astringent and sour, and I've seen it compared to everything from black olives to green beans, but for me smells closest to pickled jalapeños.
Anyway, the violet leaf does calm down and the rest of the fragrance is an excellent, gentle mix of mildly sweet spices and resins.
Not for me.
I tested it without knowing the notes as given by odysseum, and I got a somewhat different impression on my skin.
The top notes instantly reminded me of homemade fruit in rum, then a more distinct note of dried plum, but without beeing sweet. The plum note during the drydown. Finally, a leathery note takes over.
It is neither overly sweet nor opulent, but definately gourmand. I do not know what provides this, but there is also something in it that has a cooling effect like menthol (but there is no menthol smell in it).
Definately nothing I would like to wear very often, but maybe occasionally. The only dried fruit gourmand scent I like so far.
I'm reminded of my earthen walled basement on really muggy summer nights. A unique smell and one I'm sort of fond of but I do not enjoy smelling like this all day. Silage on this one is chill, non-aggressive, which is great because I can't image announcing to every passer-by that I smell like damp earth, stone, olives, pepper and celery. I may try wearing this again but it'll be a while... VERY glad I tried a small sample, I should have ordered one even smaller! I'll never use 5 ml of this stuff.
Sienne l'Hiver is the unlikeliest perfume I've ever tried: cool without being fresh, earthy without being heavy, and manages a light touch that lasts all day. A stunning fragrance -- cerebral and casual at the same time.
So impressionistic, like Monet paint. Vegetal, semi sweet, cold, enigmatic. A very personal fragance, I love it.
Notes (from Eau d’Italie website): coal-roasted chestnuts, black olives, autumn leaves, truffles, French straw, iris root, white musk
I wanted to like this scent! The concept of a olfactory ‘walk’ through a location, especially one as romantic as Sienna, is very appealing. The promised fragrance notes are intriguing. I’ve tried it on several occasions over the past few months. In the end, I’m neutral on it. My reservation is that it just isn’t “me” – it doesn’t suit me. On my skin, it is a largely a creamy, slightly sweet and slightly leathery scent. Although it is so much better than Cumming, it does remind me of that, another high-concept and location-oriented fragrance.
The opening is very good. It is green with lovely lemon and birch-like wood notes. There are hints of smoke, olive, wood, the earthy tang of truffles. It is a subtle scent, and stays close to the skin. It evokes an introspective, personal aura. It dries down to a clean, slightly soapy finish. But as I said, the lingering sweetness and creamy aspects don’t click with me.
I urge people to try it, and see for themselves. I’m sure it will suit many, men and women.
A tricky one…is it a shape-shifter or is it so acutely dependent on skin type and olfactory variations? The top is intriguing… it took my about five testings before I could grasp anything substantial in it, but now I love it. It’s a mixed bag of all sorts of wonderfully out of the way smells one encounters. I immediately get violet and olive (especially olive), and there’s something nutty in the background. There’s an earthy, or more likely, “stony” note prominent in the background, too. The smoke just doesn’t come through until the last gasps of the fragrance. I like the accords in the opening, and they stay on for almost the entire run of the fragrance. The over all feeling of Sienne l’Hiver is one of freshness and naturalness, but it seems a little too light – I would like it to have a stronger presence. I would also like it to last longer. I would buy this if it were a $60 a bottle fragrance, but I feel it’s too expensive for what it delivers.
My favourite from the line. I`m not a fan of iris, but in this I can handle it because it is so well blended with other notes. This is very subtle and nice vegetal, earthy fragrance with a distant smoke accord. And the most suprising thing here is that black olive note is definitely not just a gimmick; I am actually able to smell it!
Suitable for men or women, in a wonderful baby blue bottle.
I liked this one because it is different. I'm always up for a green fragrance that is not citrusy, soapy, or sweet. However, to make such a scent pleasant and wearable is a difficult task to accomplish.
This is positively vegetal. I smell violet leaf, plus a lot of unmentioned notes such as celery, green pepper, maybe tomato leaf, and perhaps even vetiver.
It is uncompromisingly green, which I find odd for a fragrance named for winter. I am fascinated by it. It does accomplish the goal of being pleasant. I would have to try it for an extensive amount of time before I decide how much I would like to smell vegetal.
After two short months of Tabac Blond weather here in perpetually-sunny So. Cal, I'm starting to remember that there are several other months of the year to be accounted for, perfume-wise. I adore TB, but it's a scent that becomes somewhat petulant when met with months-on-end of sun and heat. Ironically, Sienne l'Hiver promises to be everything I want in a spring/summer scent, reminding me that snow and chestnuts do, indeed, exist. I've read so many wishy-washy reviews of the scent, and yet my skin loves this like no other (except, of course, TB). I adore the odd combination of smoke+ozone+chestnuts+cobblestones+cold air+violet+something green+wet earth. So, for the love of all things Italian, why must it be so *expensive?* (Yes, one day when I sprout money from my ears, I shall bathe in this and Bois d'Ombrie...)
I really, really wanted to love this. You know the feeling when you read the notes, consider the concept, and just "know" you'll love it. But then there's skin chemistry and the ever unpredictable olfactory perception with which to contend.
The topnotes were great. And I can completely notice the concept unfolding. There is the somewhat sweet nutty smell, some vegetal components, a whiff of smoke, and an earthiness underlying it all. Then as it dries down, the sweetness, the nuttiness, the smokiness, and even the earthiness all give way to a murky, plant-like smell reminiscent of tomato plants, or maybe green bell pepper plants. And there it sits.
I am encouraged by the topnotes and have high hopes for the others in this line. I am seriously hoping this is a skin chemistry issue for me. Nonetheless, I am disappointed by the way this scent collapses in on itself every time I try it on my skin.
This new fragrance from Eau d'Italie is an olfactory representation of the Italian city of Sienna in winter.
Unusual notes of coal-roasted chestnuts, truffles,autumn leaves and olives mingle with Fench straw(!!) iris root and white musk.
This is actually nicer than you might expect, given the strange ingredients - cool,smooth and contemplative. I can imagine studying in a high-ceilinged library wearing this scent.
Suitable for a man or a woman.
Update: I now appreciate this more and more for the ground-breaking scent it is.
Not many perfumes conjure up scenes quite like this one! I wouldn't wear it out probably, but love to smell it when I am in an introspective mood.
13th January, 2007 (last edited: 25th March, 2010)