Smoke. Just smoke. The sweetness faded, the patchouli was but a faint whisper in the very onset, then just smoke. On me that was the singular and defining note that brought along no other friends to the party. I will admit that I do alter fragrance in rather extreme ways, so this could rock on others but it was a one note disappointment for me. My quest for the perfect patchouli continues.
Annick Menardo is one of my favorite perfumers, but this scent is just wrong. it smells like a barn yard. it's plain and simple vile. this and montale oud cuir d'arabie have made their way to the "never sniff again" section of the sample filing system
From the reviews, I wanted this to be similar to Japon Noir or Borneo 1834 or possibly even Pure Malt (smoke + patchouli + sweetness) but it's really not, unfortunately.
First; the opening...like most Le Labo frag's I've tried, it's extremely strong; I would def. call it pungent.
Knocks you out and not in a good way. TBH it smells like a bon fire with bags of dog feces in the middle of the flames, burning one by one and eminating stinkyness along with the backdrop from the burning wood.
Also it smells like someone is BBQ'ing a dead horse carcass marinaded with some kind of sweet and sour sauce in the middle of the fire as well.
Whatever this is, it doesn't work well at all.
So next I'm thinking...OK..where's the patchouli?
I love patchouli scents...A*MEN, Pure Malt, Japon Noir -- awesome, all in my top 20 scents and all great patchouli notes.
It takes a good 30 minutes before you can smell even the slightest hint of patchouli; again leading me to question Le Labo's naming (ie. rose31 is mostly cumin and barely any rose).
The drydown is OK; I get leather moss combined with the burning wood from the beginning which sticks around until the end. Still barely any patchouli.
Don't care for this one...the opening is plain awful and there's barely any patchouli to be found.
Also BTW, at the top this says "feminine" -- If I ever smelled a woman girl wearing this I would run away at lightning fast speeds....if a woman smells of barbecue horse carcass with dog feces and patchouli...that's not a good thing.
13th May, 2012 (last edited: 15th May, 2012)
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I wish I could go for this because I know it has an infinite depth to it. It's one of the thickest concoctions I've ever smelled. And at first it intrigues me, and then it chokes me. I try not to throw away my samples, but the smell of the slightest residue on the sample glass was taking over too much of a space, and had me hating on it within a few days. I ended up trying Patchouly by Profumum as well, and I think it's probably superior, but I'm not into that either.
I’m a die-hard patchouli lover, but I don’t like the interference of the smoky note in here. Paired with a slightly sweet base, I find the juxtaposition of acrid and syrupy to be off-putting. The patchouli is subordinate, the sweetness buzzes around like bee that has lost it’s hive, and everything submits a billowing cloud of smoke.
This is not a patchouli fragrance. However, if you enjoy smelling like "Katenschinken" (a heavily smoked North German ham) it is just the right perfume for you. Since I dislike Lone Star Memories and Bulgari Black intensely it's no surprise I can't stomach this one either. The other notes in this are entirely irrelevant, if you don't have a huge love affair with excessively sooty smoky birch tar and, like foetidus, I can't stand the stuff except as an accent in more complex leather compositions, such as the far superior Knize Ten. Extremism for its own sake, recommended for leather-clad demons from the eighth circle of hell (where those dwell who do violence to others and themselves).
I have come to realize that I really hate birch tar. Too much for me in this fragrance: These are not the kind of animalic notes I like…I’ll take civet and indoles, but they can keep their birch tar away from me. This smells horrendous to me. Patchouli 24 has incredible lasting power; I can smell it twenty hours after application, even after scrubbing, but I actually like the fragrance once the birch tar wears off … I can even smell the patchouli, and it’s an excellent patchouli fragrance – without the birch tar, that is.