Brin De Reglisse is probably the most blatant example of why I consider several *Hermessences* to be frustrating experiences. The composition is centered around a great bone accord made out of lavender and licorice. The synergy between the two gives birth to something extremely novel, refreshing and modern. On one side the aromatic and sharp-ish qualities of lavender. On the other the dark, bittersweet facets of licorice. Simple, yes, but absolutely perfect. It masterfully avoids the heaviness often associated with licorice fragrances (see Eau Noir), it's never too sweet, never too sharp (see Lolita Lempicka), anything but functional but, in the end, really too thin.
I'm not obsessed with longevity and I obviously wasn't expecting Hermessence to deliver in sillage but on skin this disappears after a couple of hours leaving the wearer with an incredible sense of frustration (unless you literally stick your nose to your wrist). It basically performs like the weakest Eau De Cologne and it should be re-applied constantly just to achieve an almost ghost-like presence. At these prices, this is honestly too much.
Pity because I really love the main accord but beside that, Brin De Reglisse feels more like an expensive joke.
Honestly, this just smells strange to me. It's a very traditional lavender-heavy fougere like Pour Un Homme, complete with the poopy tonka and vanilla and everything, but overlaid with a strong salty licorice note.
The end result is just odd. You can smell the lavender and you can smell the licorice, but they create a strange synergy that really does just smell weird. It's salty and kind of bready, but a weird dried brown bread smell like melba toast. There's sort of a liqueur vibe to it, but it's so herbal and dry that it never really smells like a drink.
Honestly, I don't really like the smell. But it's sure an interesting idea and something I haven't experienced elsewhere, so points for creativity earn a neutral rating instead of a thumbs down.
Starts with a blast of licorice. Then I detect lavender with herbal accents. The licorice fades and what remains feels rather austere. Nothing I would wear myself, but may merit consideration for licorice-lavender lovers.
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Brin de Réglisse is quite nice but still largely disappointing. I think it lives up to its name as a "strand of licorice" quite well. I'd prefer a stronger lavender component and more emphasis on a fougere structure featuring some of the other interesting notes like hay, vanilla, leather, and orange blossom. All I get is a big blast of licorice--don't get me wrong, it is a blast of perfect licorice if you will, but it never goes beyond that demarcation. I must commend Hermes though for not venturing into the super-sweet realm as so many fated anise and licorice fragrances often do. I'd suggest trying it first as it is hard to find and commands a pretty penny at Hermes boutiques worldwide.
Notes: lavender, licorice, orange blossom, hay, incense, vanilla, leather.
A disappointment for two reasons: the short duration of the interesting notes, and the wimpy conclusion of the scent. The scent boasts “designer” lavender molecules, and they are very good. They are dry, aromatic, dusty, even a bit dusky – exactly what I like in lavender. The licorice is creamy and yet dark, attractive without any particular sweetness. POOF! These notes vanish abruptly. One is left with a toasty-nutty hay smell which morphs into a soft, slightly sweet leather scent. I guess leather is the signature Hermes element but there’s really nothing else here. And that little scent lingers for a while. With a hint of vanilla it is almost gourmand. I’ll give it a neutral rating for the interesting opening.
I get a very strong black licorice note in the opening accompanied by a boatload of herbs and some pepper. The lavender kicks in after some of the herbs diminish, which isn't for a good hour or so. Although it seems very strong when you smell it up on the skin, it actually didn't project very much for me, especially when comparing to others from this line. The dry down is more or less the same as Paprika Brasil's only less enjoyable and more dull. I do get anywhere from 6-8 hours longevity, however it's very very dull for more than half of those hours. This one is just so&so to me, I might buy it if it were 90% off :D
Other than celery and lavender, there's really not much going on around this creation except smelling like money for the first 30 minutes. And when I say money, I do not mean smelling like a rich person but literallly smelling like any legal tender it doesn't matter what denomination or what currency. One can test this by spraying the cologne on one's wrist and then pulling out money from your pocket...then compare the smell. The lavender note is mild and not perfumey which is a plus but this is way too pricey for something that doesn't last more than 2 hours. You will get the same effect with a dash of Johnson's baby powder.
Brin de Reglisse, a lavender/licorice scent that is part of the Hermessence Series of boutique exclusive scents by Hermes sadly suffers from shockingly low longevity.
The scent: I LOVE IT.
The lavender (reputed to have been dissected by the perfumer Jean Claude Ellena into an entirely different molecule minus a few notes) is fantastic and extremely vegetal. For those who do not like the smell of celery - steer clear of BdR, because you can smell this almost immediately upon application (I found it extremely comfortable). The flat and starchy lavender then highlights the oncoming licorice notes just right. The black licorice is not gourmand (like Yohji Homme) and not anise-oriented (well...like many mens fragrances...the new Diesel comes to mind immediately) but licorice in all its pastel, chewy aroma.
In the middle notes I detected a slight confectionery note that reminded me of white chocolate. It strikes that yin/yang between the dry herbal note and that sweet candy note. I got absolutely no orange blossom. I think I might have smelled the hay note, but my nose is sometimes anosmic to hay so I can't be certain. And then...it disappeared in about 1 hour. The next time I wore it I intentionally over applied - I think I sprayed it 20 times (no kidding). It lasted about 2 hours. Then, in the same fashion, it completely disappeared from my skin. I tried it at night, at the end of the day. Same thing.
I would like to look past this and recommend this scent - but based upon the price (Hermessence scents are luxury priced) and the fact that other more affordable Hermes scents (Kelly Caleche, for instance) aren't burdened by such issues, I cannot.
Brin de Réglisse is not necessarily a dry lavender as seems to be the consensus in most media mentioning the scent. Rather, it plays up the richness of lavender, which can be more easily found with the absolute or concrete distillation: herbaceous yet sweet, green yet smooth – Brin de Réglisse renders a velvety gourmand lavender, likened to a lavender-flavoured chocolate. The licorice note, apparent right from the start is reminiscent of tarragon, with it’s off-beat, awkwardly green sweetness, which seamlessly complements the lavender paste. It is further deepened by deep cocoa and dark coumarin sweetness with a gourmand intensity that is more vanillic than hay-like. And than, after less than two hours of wear, it practically disappears… So unfortunately, while I find the concept of Brin de Réglisse just as surprising and original as Vetiver Tonka (a vetiver that stands out among the over-populated crowd of scents of that theme), Vetiver Tonka remains my favourite Hermèssence for both its originality and lasting power.