Genre: Woody Oriental
Notes (from Luckyscent): myrtle branch, sap, red tangerine, rosewood, Kenyan cypress resin, coconut milk, sandalwood bark, ambrette seed, vanilla.
Let me confess from the beginning that Cadjmere is not the kind of fragrance that I normally enjoy. It starts out as a kind of woody gourmand scent, with notes of dry toasted coconut and powder over vanilla and a sweet floral note that may be the listed rosewood. The name is just right. This scent is warm, velvety smooth, and somehow almost "stuffy," as if my nose were buried in a sweater.
The coconut, vanilla, and rosewood play out in a linear manner through Cadjmere's heart. They are accented by a dash of something camphoraceous that causes an occasional metallic glint amidst all of the velour. Unfortunately, I don't think that it's quite enough to keep Cadjmere from feeling somewhat ponderous. I also find the toasted coconut note to be significantly out of balance, and it becomes tiresome to me after an hour or so.
I'm surprised to find the camphoraceous note holding on until late in the development, when it lends some much-needed lift to what strikes me otherwise as a relatively flat and conventional sandalwood and vanilla drydown. Cadjmere will no doubt appeal to lovers of sweet gourmand fragrances, but it leaves me smelling too much like a macaroon.
I keep reading "coconut" in the reviews above, but the first scent I thought when I first put Cadjmere on was chocolate. Sweet, lush, creamy--though not cloying--not at all my usual floral choices. As it wore on, a woodsy muskiness emerged--sandalwood and rosewood with a soft vanilla/amber undertone. A lovely, sultry and warm perfume that seems like it will wear especially well in the winter.
First sample wearing from this house, don't know what to think. Gourmands not my thing but applied with an open mind. I got a circular swirl of creamy, coconutty sweet stuff with a dissonant, bitter-bright tangerine note poking a distinct hole through the middle. Found myself excessively wrist sniffing to catch the tangerine as it faded into sweet, vanillic mush. Got bored of the mush & reapplied twice in as many hours to rejoice in the weirdly satisfyingly resinous tangerine vs vanilla cream contrast. 3 hours in and left with the sweet, slightly cloying vanillic mush and the unshakable sense that I know this smell.......and then it came. My skank blonde party-girl sister's bedroom in the late nineties, totally littered with knickers and clubbing garments all clung to by the endless, sweet decaying dry down of DUNE!
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I learned to love many of the Guillame's creations but I still have some "troubles" with Cadjmere. I'm not among the biggest fans of gourmands but Parfumerie Generale's interpretation of this theme is, usually, very unique and original. In Cadjmere it seems that Guillame was focused on the most "evident" aspect of this kind of fragrances: sweetness.
Creamy coconut, woods and sweet flowers on a ambery/vanilla base. Cadjmere has a few interesting aspects (a resinous vibe and some myrtle contrasting the general sweetness) but overall it's too conventionally gourmandic for my likes...
As usually in PG's compositions the quality is here so, if you're into gourmands, you might want to check this out.
Cadjmere is one of my favorites that I can see getting a full bottle of once the decant runs out. It's a soothing peaceful creation that starts with an intoxicating slightly powdery spritz of creamy citrus woods, floating on a carefully blended bed of warm woods, amber, sandlewood, and vanilla. The coconut milk has been described very well below as being a woody husk coconut. It's the most subtle coconut accent I've come across.
There are a few other scents that I've since compared to Cadjmere like Tam Dao by Diptyque, Dior Addict, Oriental Lounge by The Different Company.
Cadjmere is superior to anything else I've compared it to, setting it apart as the best of its kind - a milky mildly oriental cypress/vanilla/tropical/woods.
It is a touch on the feminine side, but not overly so. I wear it for a zen-like mood, that has more of a foody/milky powder element than Kyoto by Comme des Garcons which is much more incense woods with no vanilla or coconut.
PG scents often take a little bit of time to kick in for me. Much like truly great music, there is too much going on to understand fully in one sitting. Cadjmere was no different. At first I found it too sweet and creamy, but eventually I came around to liking it. Now I see that what at first registered as cloying was actually cognitive dissonance between the sweetness of the coconut contrasting with the pungency of the Cypress resin. Once that discord was resolved my appreciation blossomed. Pierre Guillaume has a knack for this kind of thing, and frankly I think he is a genius.
This is one of those fragrances that I simply couldn’t understand the first time I tested it… I was a total blank. So, as is my habit, I put the sample tube back in limbo part of the sample drawer and went on with my life. Months later at my second testing the word “coconut” popped into my brain when I sniffed it. What I smelled was the hard, dusky-almost-dusty, shaggy/woody surface of a coconut after its fleshier exterior had been removed… just a little of the coconut meat/milk aroma came through, just enough to allow me to think that I might be smelling coconut palm wood (of which I have no idea of the smell). The woody dominant coconut accord was nice, but not intriguing in the least. The next testing gave me the rosewood that I had been seeking out combined with a amber/wood like scent that I assume is ambrette seed. There was also a bit of resinousness involved, but I just didn’t find anything exciting about the fragrance. I was bored with the whole idea of it until I realized that I had been getting it all wrong: I suddenly realized that this is a scent that I could easily live with: This is a dusky/woody, semi-resinous, semi-sweet, masculine-enough fragrance that is assertive without calling attention to itself. It exists as a comfortable fruity/woody background abstractness that, sprayed lightly, gives off an air of mystery without really giving its presence away. Off my skin I don’t get sweet and I don’t get gourmand. I get a woody dominant slightly coconuty background abstractness. Cadjmere has a firm sillage and a good enough longevity… I wear it with an extremely light application and I quite enjoy it that way.
01st February, 2010 (last edited: 02nd February, 2010)
A creamy warm chypre that is aromatic and resinous. Spray some on a cashmere scarf in the dead of winter. I think some of the notes battle a bit and it isn't as smooth as it could be, but it's very nice and lasts all day.
First, may I say, the previous writers have executed their reviews beautifully. I will add that Cadjmere reminds me of a few other fragrances that radiate a sweet, smooth (see lizzie_j's aged liquor reference), mellow, I'd dare say dull aura: Rochas Tocade, Chopard Casmir, and the drydown of Boucheron Trouble or Liz Claiborne Spark. I can't decide my favorite from this camp. The vanilla dullness is at once very attractive/soothing and then wearying/boring. However, a cost comparison removes C18 from the running for me.
Be sure to check out the many positive reviews at Lucky Scent.
So, thumb neutral or thumb up? I think the interesting resins earn this fragrance a ...
Powdery coconut prominent fragrance. I get cypress note very clearly, it is quite beautiful and nicely done. Smooth, creamy sandalwood with buttery ambrette seeds creates a nice semi-gourmand feel to it.
This is like a loooong distant cousin of Santal de Mysore by Serge Lutens. There are certain similarities without a doubt.
Fragrance is quite weak on me without particular sillage. Average lasting power.
Nice, but not for me, and I don`t think it is nearly worth the high price. I mean, 88euros for 50ml bottle of this.....It`s ridicilous.
A gorgeous Parfumerie Generale classic.... it does everything PG does, and it does it well. Here we have a woody fragrance that is made creamy - and nearly gourmand - without the addition of traditional gourmand notes. Also typical of PG discordant-made-harmonious is the addition of fruit notes - in this case tangerine - to give the overall composition flair without interfering with the primary accord or being too weird (a la Cuir Venenum). It is not entirely linear. The beginning is somewhat confused; not in a bad way but rather in an interesting 'where is this going' way. Once settled into the heart the creamy wood really comes through, and only on drydown does the amber/vanilla become prominent. This is not a light fragrance by any means, and it will last at least a day on your skin.
If you've never tried Parfumerie Generale and want to know what typifies the PG style, this is one of the first I'd recommend to try.
nice powdery rose which is kinda mellow at the same time with heavy does of vanillic milkiness. in all the vanilla adds a bit sweetness and creates an aura very verr similar to what montale acheived with Blue Amber...only this is rosewood based silky smooth concoction whcih stays linear. it'll not disappoint. One of those kinds which could be a safe blind buy. its not my type but, i can imagine many people diggin this one.
15th September, 2008 (last edited: 26th September, 2008)
I love this juice. Warm, smooth as 20 year old Scotch, and foody enough to satisfy the gourmand in me. But in addition to vanilla and coconut (I find the latter VERY subtle, not the loud sugar dusted coconut flakes of some scents), the woods make an appearance early, and serve to further soften any remaining rough edges of this lovely comfort scent. Lasting power is good, not great, and sillage is modest. Not for hot summer days; perfect for a damp, drizzly late afternoon in the fall. As comfortable as a worn leather recliner. Yum....
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I think this may be a scent where personal chemistry plays a big hand. On me, the cypress is dominant, the coconut and vanilla almost nonexistent. Myrtle is there, too, but subdued. Cadjmere is a winter forest that I can walk through in a big comfy coat, and I can smell someone baking something delicious a kilometer away. Fabulous winter staple. Strong stuff, though, go lightly.