Genre: Woody Oriental
Notes (from Luckyscent): myrtle branch, sap, red tangerine, rosewood, Kenyan cypress resin, coconut milk, sandalwood bark, ambrette seed, vanilla.
Let me confess from the beginning that Cadjmere is not the kind of fragrance that I normally enjoy. It starts out as a kind of woody gourmand scent, with notes of dry toasted coconut and powder over vanilla and a sweet floral note that may be the listed rosewood. The name is just right. This scent is warm, velvety smooth, and somehow almost "stuffy," as if my nose were buried in a sweater.
The coconut, vanilla, and rosewood play out in a linear manner through Cadjmere's heart. They are accented by a dash of something camphoraceous that causes an occasional metallic glint amidst all of the velour. Unfortunately, I don't think that it's quite enough to keep Cadjmere from feeling somewhat ponderous. I also find the toasted coconut note to be significantly out of balance, and it becomes tiresome to me after an hour or so.
I'm surprised to find the camphoraceous note holding on until late in the development, when it lends some much-needed lift to what strikes me otherwise as a relatively flat and conventional sandalwood and vanilla drydown. Cadjmere will no doubt appeal to lovers of sweet gourmand fragrances, but it leaves me smelling too much like a macaroon.
First sample wearing from this house, don't know what to think. Gourmands not my thing but applied with an open mind. I got a circular swirl of creamy, coconutty sweet stuff with a dissonant, bitter-bright tangerine note poking a distinct hole through the middle. Found myself excessively wrist sniffing to catch the tangerine as it faded into sweet, vanillic mush. Got bored of the mush & reapplied twice in as many hours to rejoice in the weirdly satisfyingly resinous tangerine vs vanilla cream contrast. 3 hours in and left with the sweet, slightly cloying vanillic mush and the unshakable sense that I know this smell.......and then it came. My skank blonde party-girl sister's bedroom in the late nineties, totally littered with knickers and clubbing garments all clung to by the endless, sweet decaying dry down of DUNE!
I learned to love many of the Guillame's creations but I still have some "troubles" with Cadjmere. I'm not among the biggest fans of gourmands but Parfumerie Generale's interpretation of this theme is, usually, very unique and original. In Cadjmere it seems that Guillame was focused on the most "evident" aspect of this kind of fragrances: sweetness.
Creamy coconut, woods and sweet flowers on a ambery/vanilla base. Cadjmere has a few interesting aspects (a resinous vibe and some myrtle contrasting the general sweetness) but overall it's too conventionally gourmandic for my likes...
As usually in PG's compositions the quality is here so, if you're into gourmands, you might want to check this out.