Perfume Reviews

Reviews of Private Collection - Un Crime Exotique by Parfumerie Generale

Total Reviews: 11
The spice cabinet has been neglected in perfumery. I imagine this has to do with perfume producers not wanting to be pinned down by the literal, the prosaic, the kitchen. From the consumer perspective, I don’t know if there is much of a market for culinary spice perfumery, but the need is probably met by aromatherapeutic products. I know that there are others spicy/bakery/culinary perfumes: Tauer’s Eau d’Epices, Lutens Five O’Clock au Gingembre, l’Artisan’s Tea for Two, but I’ve never tried them.

I do see a train of thought that goes from Estée Lauder Cinnabar/Dior Opium to Serge Lutens Arabie to Un Crime Exotique, though. For each of these, the spice is in the syrup. A syrupy quality in perfume usually implies an overt sweetness. Generally, in terms of nose feel, syrup = sweetness + viscosity + flavor. The flavor might be vanilla, maple, cinnamon, cardammom. The ‘flavor’ is the spice. Crime Exotique skips the implied syrup (Cinnabar) and the overt syrup (Arabie) and takes the spice in a different direction. The touch of syrup that Crime Exotique gives you is firmly grounded in clove, one of the few cold spices. The chilly blast of clove in the topnotes of the perfume surround you at first but subside by about 80% fairly quickly. The syrup goes the way of the clove hurricane, and Crime is soon revealed as a woody perfume. When not drowned in sweetness, spices like clove, cinnamon, nutmeg, even ginger are shown to be characteristically woody in scent.

Un Crime Exotique takes the wood and runs with it. What appeared to be syrup is actually more of a resinous quality that the perfume builds on to make a rich woody floral. The perfume settles into a cool vanillic range that maintains the drying, antiseptic character of the clove, but links it to a floral quality. Parfumerie Generale list osmanthus among the notes.

Un Crime Exotique flirts with the gift-shop candle vibe, but is just nuanced enough to escape. The opening notes of the perfume are a refrigerated blast where clove overpowers virtually all the other notes. The heart is evenly balanced, and the spicy, woody and floral notes move around one another respectfully. The drydown gets a bit grey, non-descript. It smells like a muffled version of Lutens Un Bois Vanille’s cool, woody vanilla. A little blurred, but not bad at all.

21st July, 2017
A refreshing twist to an otherwise predictable theme

The notes describe this one well in that it sits somewhere between chai tea and gingerbread. As with several from the PG line, it's tastefully balanced and not nearly as sickening as many other gourmands on the market, offering a more nuanced experience due, in part, to the smart inclusion of the anise that favors freshness over syrupy sweetness. The name feel like a bit of a misnomer at first, but you could imagine this scent emanating from Phyllis Dietrichson's mug as she maps out her husband's death. Consequently, there's a weirdly incidental, noir-like quality to it that could potentially calm the nerves during sketchy dealings.

PG has brewed up a gourmand for those who'd rather not smell like ultra-sweet cake dipped in sugar and coated with caramel. As a tea scent, it's more mimetic than it is interpretive; so if you like the idea of smelling like chai—without smelling like you rolled around in sugar for an hour—this one might be worth exploring. Although it's not my personal cuppa', it's one of the better one's out there right now.

Pros: A highly mimetic, yet brisk tea scent that doesn't add too many spoonfuls.
Cons: It's a tea scent -- a good one, but not much more.

23rd June, 2013
This really is a gourmand work of art. It's overly sweet, but not cloying. Also, there is no dark, chocolaty, coffeesque, caramel notes that I usually expect when I hear the word, "gourmand." The pineapple and rum sort of stick out as well, keeping this fragrance very unique without sacrificing yummy pleasantness.

The overall impression is a dessert table with pastries. There's also fruit for those that don't want a quintuple bypass. There's no coffee, which I would be looking for at any dessert table, but there is tea, which, I suppose, will do.

The "lighter" nature of this gourmand makes me think that it would be better suited on a woman. Although I see absolutely nothing wrong with a man wearing it. In fact, the deliciousness of it was quite confidence-inspiring while I wore it.
Still though, as great as it is, I prefer my gourmands dark and rich, like Oprah.
21st August, 2011
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Oh dear I thought on application, but it definitely grows on you. It smells of honey though I dont see it mentioned. Herbal spicy tea with a large dollop of honey or a boiling cup of honey Lemsip.
I wasn't sure if I wanted to smell of Lemsip, but it's warm and very reassuring
24th March, 2011
Private Collection Un Crime Exotique by Parfumerie Generale

This name alone creates a sense of..
Heightened DRAMA.....
something will happen or is about to happen
and your in the middle of it .

Intrigued and lured by its Old Hollywood Film Noire name
I ventured to sample it ....

might have been a better suited name ....

Allow me to set the film up....
The Decadence of the French living in Vietnam and the exploitive evils of Colonialism....
A exotic place all Steamy and Humid!
Languorous visits to hidden
Mandarin "OPIUM DENS"...
All the while you are floating on a "JUNK" on tranquil waters.....
When suddenly you are awakened by the rude shots of a gun....
You feel the wetness of liquid on your chest. the OPIUM has dulled your sense of pain ....
Is it blood ? NO!
The smell of fragrance fills the air ...
Your favorite crystal decanter lies on the floor shattered....
You smile ...
having cheated death one more time ... you return to your revelry.

My review:
I really like this Spiced Tea Infusion scent.

The fragrance is so heady with GINGER and Spice... predominantly Saigon Cinnamon.
Perhaps this mysterious sounding ingredient ..called
which in CHINA is infused with green or black tea leaves, to create a scented tea called guì huā chá (OSMANTHUS TEA)
this might create the "CRIME EXOTIQUE"
in this Potent,Intoxicating and Long Lasting Fragrance....

A 50ml bottle for 100.00 bucks
not bad ...
I'll add it to my Ever Expanding Fragrance Wishlist
15th January, 2011
Sybarite Show all reviews
United Kingdom
An Exotic Crime is yet another gorgeous PG Privé ! ... A rich buttery gingerbread cookie dipped in milky tea. ~ Just delicious !

(FYI ... I hate cloves usually, and did not find it that clove heavy actually. It's much more about the cinnamon, ginger and tea). ...
And I found it overall much richer than "5 o'Clock au Gingembre", which though exploring the same theme, is somewhat lighter and fresher.
It "drys down" to be somewhat similar to L'Artisan's "Tea for Two".
08th November, 2009
I smell cloves very strongly and cinnamon, combined with a hint of pineapple. It's a very strange combination and I think I would love it if it wasn't for the cloves smell. I think it should be called Clove Crime. If you love clove you should try this, if you hate clove avoid this one at all costs.
25th March, 2009
This smells like a frosty fall day, christmas dinner, and cloves all wrapped up - a truly unique perfume. It smells overly spicy at first but mellows to a really complex yummy flavor. I wanted so badly to love this perfume, but after about 15 minutes, it smelled like potatoes! Darn my weird chemistry...

Even though it didn't work on me, I would reccomend this as a must try.
02nd December, 2008
Kazzy Show all reviews
United States
My HG gourmand fragrance! I get the gingerbread references but to me this is more of a warm from the oven, rum soaked mincemeat pie with cream on top and a side of spicy black tea. I groan with delight when I put this on. Excellent lasting power. Dry down is whipped cream edged with vanilla. If you remember Comptoir Sud Pacifique's Pain D'Epices it is similar to that, only better, richer, creamier, boozier. Delicious! It costs more than I like to pay for fragrance, but this is worth it!
23rd October, 2008
bbBD pretty much nailed it. Densely spicy gingerbread garnished with cinnamon and served with a cup of tea. Makes Five o'Clock au Gingembre feel like an EDT. This lasts forever and ever. Amen.
13th October, 2008
bbBD Show all reviews
United States
Absurdly fantastic! Similar in concept to the new Serge Lutens 5 OClock Gingerbre, but definitely distinct and unique, and while its a gourmand I think it would appeal even to those who don't like gourmands. It starts with a distinct gingerbread note, not sweet like cookies but rather spicy like mulled cider spiked with cinnamon and rum. This is a very, very full bodied fragrance, and is develops a distinct black tea accord intertwines with the spicy gingerbread, with just enough sweetness. The interplay of tea and gingerbread is what makes this fragrance and will probably lead me to buy a bottle. On drydown sandalwood and vanilla become more prominent - as does the cinnamon, and blend everything together perfectly.
17th August, 2008