Although Amouage’s Jubilation 25 is technically an oriental chypre, to me it contains the full whack of the fruity chypre DNA put forth by Mitsouko. Without using oak or tree moss at all, Amouage has still managed to dress this up as a traditional fruity, mossy chypre that smells as bracingly stern as its French predecessors. The opening is bitter and smoky, owing to the massive dose of lemon, tarragon, and lemony-astringent Frankincense, but it is also quite shockingly animalic, with its audacious use of cumin to approximate the salty sweat of human skin. I find the opening quite intense and it took me a while to warm up to it.
Despite the different notes for each, I feel that the bitter, smoky opening of Jubilation 25 matches that of Mitsouko in both tone and feel. I don’t really know anything about how perfumers construct their perfumes, but how Amouage managed to arrive at that happy meeting of minds with the great Mitsouko without actually using any of the materials used in Mitsouko is amazing to me.
The salty bitterness of the incense and herbs is carried on through to the heart of the fragrance, where a huge, jammy rose suddenly blooms. There is fruit here too, an almost overripe, over-full note that smells like peaches, grapey jasmine, and plums. But the fruit and floral notes are just an accent against the real backdrop of this fragrance, which is a thick wall of smoky, bitter resins, incense, herbs, and dry, dusty cumin. Compared to Mitsouko in the mid-section, Jubilation 25 feels infinitely richer, more oriental, and more golden. It also feels tougher, more masculine, and less approachable than Mitsouko. This surprises me. This is supposedly the female of the Jubilation species. But I think it is utterly unisex, if not leaning a bit masculine.
The drydown certainly supports my theory of masculinity in this perfume – characterized by leathery labdanum, more incense, and a heap of dry woods, it is now starkly different from the softer, greener oakmoss in Mitsouko. Imagine Mitsouko and Jubilation 25 starting off as two sister stars within kissing distance of each other, and then spinning out in two completely different directions in space. Mitsouko ends in the classic whisper of moss and spiced peach, a very French, austere but soft exhalation. Jubilation 25 starts off in the same arrondissement as Mitsouko but lands in an Arabian spice market, where dry and bitter barkhour chips are being smoked over a burner.
It is a little harsh, this overload of bitter spices and resins, but at the same time, it is interesting and beautiful. How I feel about Jubilation 25 in general, though, tends to depend on how Mitsouko is treating me at any given time. Right now, in the depths of winter, Mitsouko seems to be opening up a lot more for me, so my decant of Jubilation 25 extrait tends to lie there, largely ignored for now. But once Mitsouko’s capricious pendulum swings back the other way and hits me on the ass, I will surely turn to Jubilation 25 for my chypre fix. Jubilation 25 is at least an immutable experience for me.
Jubilation 25 lands on the skin in a cloud of fruity rose, myrrh, and frankincense that harkens back to earlier Amouage fragrances like Gold and Dia. The animalic edge that characterizes Amouage Gold is present as well, but the aldehydes that dominate the earlier scent are not so conspicuous. Jubilation 25 is a brighter, clearer fragrance than many of the earlier Amouage feminine offerings, but that’s not implying that its insubstantial. It’s just not the same sort of 1,000 lb. anvil as Gold.
I do wish that Jubilation 25’s incense accord and animalic tang persisted longer, since once they fade I’m left with a less luxurious and more conventional floral oriental base with a dollop of sweet amber. The base notes are persistent and the sillage and projection are comfortable – neither intrusive nor too weak, but I don't feel that Jubilation 25's ddrydown quite measures up to the promising first half hour. A well-crafted, comfortable, and enjoyable fragrance nonetheless.
Border between Feminine and Unisex
This is classified as a woman's fragrance, but it falls on the line between woman and unisex. It is (in my opinion) a floral chypre with an opining of floral, salt, and a slight odor of sweat. It dries down to more salt and sweat, with the spicy floral and amber making an appearance. Oakmoss is barely there in the background. I couldn't pull this off, but some men could.
Pros: Rich deep complexity
Cons: the salty perspiration note is a bit strong.
It never fails to upset me when fragrances do this: they get two-thirds of the chypre structure right, from the bracing bergamot top to the perfectly judged amber middle chord, but omit--no doubt for regulatory reasons--the bitter oakmoss finale that makes chypres so distinctive and wonderful. Jubilation 25 is a textbook example of this two-thirds execution, which, even with its perfect proportions and deep meaty and peachy glow, feels frustratingly unresolved.
A classic fruity chypre dressed up in the oriental style, Jubilation 25 bears more than a passing resemblance to Dior's iconic Diorella. However, whereas Diorella possessed a light and airy feel, Jubilation 25 is dense and luxurious. Here, the basic chypre structure is rounded out by the addition of copious amounts of amber, resins, balsams, and woods, resulting in a fragrance that ultimately feels substantial, but not overdone: a modern example of 'un grand parfum français,' produced by an Omani firm.
First time i ever tried it , one year ago, i could not go over those, smoky-bitter top notes, that made whole composition a mess to my nose, i was lost! Could not understand why someone would make a perfume that starts like this.Whats there to love about bitter smokes:-)
Now a year later,this is amazingly beautiful modern scent built like a classic, complex, but without any animalic note. It starts with huge frankincense-myrrhe bitter smoky note. Its not green its so grey:-)
It has no moss at all but because of that fresh bitterness it reminds of chypre!
I am no fan of chypre, instead of beeing green in the dry down it turns to sweety floral creamy scent, that dances on the verge of going soapy, i love that!
If it was mossy i am sure i would not enjoy it so much , real chypre keep the distance, remind of cold north. This one is warm feminine, dry-sweet note! And feels like a surprise,you did not expect from the start. What is modern about it :allways smell fresh! Not old lady
This is extrait, i would also expect it lasts much longer and projects much more, but surprisingly after 5 hours only it went to almost skin scent:-) my top 3 From this house!
I do like this classically-inspired 'new chypre', though I have a quibble with the ending.
I was convinced it had oakmoss when I first tried it, so classic did it smell, with that darkness, deepness, and slight roughness that defines oakmoss. I didn't really get the fruit others mentioned, until it came in at the end. It was well- blended - I didn't really smell individual notes as much as chords, giving it more of a cohesive seamless quality. The opening was a herbal deep chypre opening, and evolved into a more floral chypre, at which point it also started becoming less dark.
The glory of a chypre is oftentimes in the drydown, and this is where Jubilation 25 disappointed. On me it sort of dissipated and petered out, fading with hardly a whimper, becoming lighter, smoother, more floral and fruity. It has an upside down pyramid, starting dark and baselike then becoming lighter and brighter in the drydown. I like this one, but the too soon disappearance in the drydown gives me serious pause. It reminds me of another stunner which does the same on me - Mauboissin. I can't recommend J-25 unreservedly because of that, but the other parts of it are wonderful - 7.5 out of 10 stars.
13th January, 2013 (last edited: 25th March, 2013)
I will never get to understand why Amouage feminines are so overlooked. They're perfectly unisex, often better than the masculine versions and absolutely stunning. Jubilation 25 makes no exception.
I always loved this fragrance but, lately, it is becoming one of my favorite deliveries by the Onani firm. A fruity chypre that clearly speaks of classicism, of old-school french perfumery and continuely winking at pillars of the past such as Cristelle, Mitsouko and, yes, Diorella. But when you think it's all about a floral-fruity chypre, a thick, humongous and estremely dry incense-ambery-woody base comes in to play reminding that skills in perfumery are almost everything. Jubilation 25 is perfectly able to conjugate two types of perfumery (french and oriental) into a single language. Two completely different fragrances living together in one composition with absolutely no stridency.
To anyone who like classic, rich, complex perfumery, I can't imagine Jubilation 25 not being part of their wardrobes. Outstanding longevity and powerful sillage. Mandatory.
15th November, 2012 (last edited: 16th November, 2012)
Sometimes a perfume of such concentration and so resolutely un-modern requires a degree of daring from the wearer, the vogue (admittedly only among the perfume cognoscenti) for smelly ouds notwithstanding. Opens with a strong desert spice trader vibe – plenty of smoke, incense, sun-baked wood, dry myrrh, and what seems like a cinnamon-cumin combo lurking at the fringes. This is parched and powerful – the floral notes are pretty muted on my skin, but the smoke is glorious, harking back it would appear to the origins of the word ‘perfume’. I must admit initial wearings left a not entirely favourable impression. At first I thought it edged a bit too close to the souk territory of Lutens, but over the day Guerlain’s Mitsouko seemed a more persistent shadow. However, that addictive smokiness and the bitter-sweet myrrh kept calling me back and I made my peace with its contradictions: the call to spiritual purging that the temple ingredients seem to be offering, which exists side by side with an almost opiate luxuriousness.
Certainly far butcher than the ‘male’ companion scent, which jumps to please with a wagging tail, and which I admit I wear more readily. But this is a tremendously layered composition, leaning with haughty composure over the abyss of excess.
I can understand the" admiration" of some reviewers rather than the adoration others have for it. This is a very complex fruity chypre which is probably quite hard to get your head around. I "get" it completely from the first spray and adore the spicy heart of woody amber notes a bit like when Cinnabar was young and unadulterated and it also throws shades of Diorella into the mix . It's never cold and unapproachable - there is nothing transparent , no horrible linalool -nasty chemical pretend lavender (which I hate ) It's very grown up and luxurious and I feel like I have known it all my life like a very close friend - I love it and have bought it . My husband loves it too.
I admire this rather than like it. I am a fan of deep green and floral chypres but for me this doesn't fall into either of these categories. Yes I get a dose of spicy top, yes I get a whole heap of flowers running right through until the very final dry down, when I get spicy incense and vanilla rather than amber.
Unfortunately this combination in the first 3 hours made me slightly headachy and nauseous. It may simply be I'm unused to such rich and complex elixir. I feel a spring day when it's crisp and sunny may vastly improve my response to this
l get a very herbal vibe from this, maybe cumin or tarragon, & it makes me think of curry for the first hour or so. l get the incense/animalic notes, & then the florals peep through, the herbs become woodier, & it's more of a classic French perfume; florals so well-blended that l can't pick them out, & a touch of fruit, but still that spicy incense. 4 hours in there's a trace of amber, & then it begins to fade into a base of mossy woods. lt's a bit of an oddity to me & not like anything l've smelled before, it's almost as if they threw every ingredient they had to hand into one fragrance. l respect it's composition, but it's not really my style. l think it would probably appeal to lovers of mossy chypres like Cristalle.
I disliked the opening. It was harshly aldehydic with no softer elements as counterbalance. The arrival of incense didn’t make it more palatable either. After around 10 minutes I did detect something floral lurking in the background but its identity remained hidden. And when the jammy rose finally made its appearance beyond the 20-minute mark, it did not floor me. Neither did the rest of the fragrance.
Maybe I just grew bored of it. Perhaps the excellent Jubilation XXV had raised my expectations higher than they needed to be. It’s just that as a composition JUBILATION 25 breaks no new grounds. It retains the classic feel of Chanel No.5 and smells similar to Fendi. While it is superbly constructed I can’t say if it is better than its predecessors.
At Amouage’s more exclusive prices, Jubilation 25 could certainly afford to impress with a little more originality. Instead, wearing it might just make you feel as though you are going to a high society gala dressed in a pricier version of the outfit you wore to the prom 25 years earlier. Others however might call that 'classic'.
Jubilation 25 demonstrates the richness and time evolution I associate with classical, French perfumery, but its twist is that it screws with traditional categories. To call it a spicy, floral, oriental, herbal, fruity chypre does capture a lot of the ground this fragrance covers, but it doesn’t really narrow things down. Part of this is the way it plays out over time. Its top notes are a rosy frankincense & myrrh---and is that cardamom? Cumin? But even before that, its tippy-top notes include a licoricy tarragon, and have a tingly feel similar to aldehyedes. But as soon as I got the tip-top, they faded. Its expansive opening reminded me of Tauer’s Incense Rosé, but the top really just ushers in a balsamic, woody set of notes that have a choral hum to them and give J 25 warmth. The fruit starts to kick in here, but it matches the woodiness. The fruit is broad and rich, but not sweet. It’s sort of an interesting fruit, too. You know the way classic white florals suggest abstract floral qualities without seeming like any particular flower you’ve ever smelled? Similarly, this is an idealized fruit. It’s a plumy, peachy scent. I think its success here is that it has both the scent of the skin of a fruit before you’ve bitten into it and the ripe flesh. Not over-ripe. I know I’m dwelling on the fruit here, but it’s the key. This is ripe in that it has a strong ‘flavor’ to it, but doesn’t have that feeling of fruit that’s started to turn (Diorella, Femme.) Fruit is the component that ties this scent’s upper register with its drydown.
Disclosure: I love fruity chypres. Y, Diorella, Mitsouko, Cristalle, Chanel pour Homme, Chinatown. I find fruity chypres exceedingly expressive and balanced. They can emphasize green, mossy, sweet, bitter, herbal and still remain true to that spectacular feel of the chypre chord.
Fruity chypre is where Jubilation 25 winds up. When the dry fruit enters, the moss comes on slowly and overtakes the woodiness and instead of harmonizing with the fruit, plays a counterpoint to it. Everything I love about the drydown of fruity chypres, Chinatown in particular, is here, but Jubilation 25 keeps its own identity. If there’s amber in the drydown, I’m mistaking it for a whisper of the frankincense. Dry and confidently stark. This concise drydown makes me feel like the circus-like opening belonged to another fragrance entirely, but one that I’d love to try again.
29th November, 2010 (last edited: 05th December, 2010)
How many times have I smelt and tested this and not written a review. Profumo by Acqua di Parma, The Party In Manhattan , Mitsouko ( the vintage ) and Jubilation 25 can all join hands and say "we belong to the same family ,we are siblings" ....because they are.
Rich chypres with Jubilation having a touch of a Chanel No.5 vibe. Jubilation 25 is a grand perfume ,so smooth ,exquisite. This is real perfume , golden perfume drops on skin, melds and becomes an olfactory wonder. I simply must have some .
A rich, joyous jubilant scent that can't help but make you smile. Floral, spicy (but not too) and very feminine. Lasts a long, long time and the scent intensifies for several hours after application before it begins its beautiful drydown. Tarragon is prominent for a bit as is cumin, but this is mostly a seamless blend. Has a trashy cousin in Gucci Rush, but they really are quite different with the Rush being much more brash and harsh. Strongly recommend sampling J25. Next to Gold, their best yet. Must possess and have resigned myself to eating cat food in my senior years as my retirement fund has been looted for the perfume gods! Expensive.
I think others have summed this fragrance up nicely. I am left feeling uncertain about Jubilation 25, so perhaps I need to give it another try. I'll share my initial impressions anyhow after recently receiving a few samples of the fragrance.
Jubilation 25 does open as a pleasant mixture of rose, spice, incense and some smoke. One aspect about J25 that I like is the absence of nearly all aldehydes...no sharp harsh opening here...nothing medicinal or sanitizing at all about this fragrance. I found the opening notes to be very appealing and soothing...very animalic and a bit dirty but balanced with sweet spicy and floral notes that were not overbearing in any way...very smooth.
Like others have stated, I too wish that J25’s incense and animalic notes lasted longer, perhaps through the middle and definitely through the dry down phases. I agree that once the pleasant opening faded, the scent progressed into an extremely mediocre floral aroma with remnants of wood, slight amber and resin. Throughout my evening, I continually received wafts of "what's that aroma" from Jubilation 25...but overall I'd consider it a nice dry down with pretty good sillage.
However, "what is that predominant note" pressed on me throughout the night-smile. Because J25 is overall smooth, seamless and effortless-truly a perfume whose sum is greater than its individual parts-it was hard for me to identify every note. For me, the fragrance ended on a floral and woody note...lasted as I am typing this some 8 hours later! I would have to conclude that the predominance was one of moss, wood or resin in the end...really long lasting but too one dimensional for me. I found myself wishing that the opening chypre notes would return because I became bored with the singularity of wood & resin.
All in all, Jubilation 25 is a nice fragrance but I don't think I'm ready for a full bottle-smile...probably a good thing given the hefty price tag on this one!
If you are considering getting a sample of Jubilation, I recommend that you make the same mistake I did and get the version for men. While the men's version will bring a big smile to your face and a whoop of 'now there's a good one!', the woman's version will send you to the shower for a wash off. To each (nose) their own, but this is one that did not work for me.
Smelling Jubilation 25 for the first time was like running into an old friend... or perhaps more like thinking you've spotted an old friend in a crowd, but then realising it's someone you've never met before. It's somehow recognisable and familiar, I think because it has a classical chypre structure - more Mitsouko than Diorella to me - but as one wears it, it definitely has a hint of the oriental about it - some spice and vanilla. In fact, I get a hint of Opium parfum, which I think is mainly from the carnation. I haven't seen this mentioned in lists of notes, but there's eugenol on the box, so there's definitely a clove/carnation accord. This fragrance communicates classic and impeccable taste, and then it flashes a bit of something sexy. It seems to work for all occasions, and it's one of the few fragrances I wear that always seems to draw compliments.
Jubilation opens with a fizzy, almost lightly peppered rose chord, and dries down to the smoke and shimmer of perfectly balanced flowers, incense and myrrh. The overall impression is one of sweetness: not floral sweetness, not vanillic sweetness, and not even a pinch of sugar. No, it is the sweetness of seemingly weightless resins, woods, and balsams that give Jubilation its distinctive allure. Its confident, but never pushy sillage never fails to attract compliments.
When I tried Jubilation from a carded sample, it had no staying power. However, I liked it so much that I decided to buy a small bottle. I am pleased to report that I applied it yesterday afternoon and can still smell it the next morning before my shower.
A lovely, must-try fragrance, Jubiliation sometimes serves for me as the ideal, sophisticated, light main course. On other days, it is the delicate appetizer that sends me to Tauer's less elegant but equally delicious L'air du désert marocain or Le Maroc pour elle for the main course.
Amazing throwback to chypres the way they used to be made. It must be the tarragon, something that is not in many frags I have tried. It imparts a golden rich herbal quality along with the usual suspects of floral & spices, I have absolutely no complaints. This is heady stuff and just gorgeous. I notice there is a reference here to L'Heure Bleu, but this is misleading as there is no heliotrope. And Jubilation is not sweet or even very floral. This is closer to a mossy chypre such as Balenciaga's Cialenga or vintage 'Cabochard' - just to compare, not exact you understand, but more in that vein, I feel. This is really pretty if you like a skin /herbal scent with golden highlights... that's the feeling it gives me when I put it on.
I find this and Jubilation XXV for Men my favorite of the Amouage line do date (though I am "courting" Lyric for Women at this time and enjoying it.) XXV for women is a Middle Eastern concept fragrance for Western tastes. Citrus/possibly citron, Bulgarian rose, frankincense and myrrh are up front with a wide assortment of secondary scents that I think that I can identify as tarragon, amber (not quite enough for my taste), a healthy shot of patchouli, musk, with the whole sweetened by what I suspect is ylang ylang.
To me, however, the fragrance has problems. One is a pervasive fruit note that simply won't go away. It is very distracting from the rest of the scent, almost cheapening it. The other is that the bright and wonderful initial blast of resins fades far too quickly. What remains is nice in a conventional sort of way, but not what I expected after trying Jubilation XXV for Men; that's more like the early classic Amouage.
I agree with vidabo. Jubilation is a very well blended fragrance which floats close to your skin softly while changing its face several times. just like a kaleidoskop it gives out several perspectives of its inner life.
spicy and powdery it is a classic that one could imagine on one of those intelligent timeless elegant ladies who never forgets who she is.
jubilation has this amazing contenance. this is why it is wearable in the day and also in a grand evening. it just never misbehaves,is always elegant and slowly smoothes into your skin without getting lost.
rich of facettes
I'm surprised this hasn't been reviewed yet, even if the scent has a rather impenetrable character indeed. Only after having worn it occasionally for a couple of months does it reveal itself in a more comprehensive manner. These are the notes: tarragon, rose, lemon, ylang-ylang, davana, labdanum, frankincense, amber, musk, vetiver, myrrh, patchouli.
It's impeccably blended, the way Amouages are, but some notes do play lead. The overture is one of citrus and tarragon, strong, savory characters who remain throughout the play, but are joined by the ensemble after a while, developing an oriental theme, as the notes would indicate. In fact the base reminds me of Mitsouko (latest reformulation), which to me is an oriental chypre rather than a bare chypre. Despite being rich and smooth, Jubilation 25 has an understated character, which would make it suitable for casual wear, though it would fare just as well on any grand occasion. It is satisfying without giving away all of its secrets; mesmerizing in a similar fashion to Dia and Gold, but more adventurous and the most oriental of the lot.