A banal melon-aquatic top note had me fearing the worst, but Bertrand Duchaufour’s design for Fleur de Liane turns out to be much more interesting than its stale opening gambit would suggest. With a half hour’s wear the melon falls into place beside a curiously milky floral and wood accord that’s spiked with indole and a sharp nutmeg note familiar from Duchaufour’s earlier Magnolia Romana. The contrast between cool, damp fruit and warm, powdery florals exerts a weird fascination that keeps me coming back for more.
The soft musky-woody drydown includes a peculiar steamed milk note Duchaufour has also used in his Amaranthine for Penhaligon’s. In both scents it adds an appetizing warmth to a tropical floral arrangement, but here it also serves to erase any lingering impression of routine aquatic ennui. This one ends up far better than I would have hoped.
I suppose it's almost a niche cliche by now: The melon/lily "aquatic" floral. Fleur de Liane is/was L'Artisan's try at the genre. Honestly, it's better than most, but I'm not sure that's high praise.
The big attraction is a juicy, realistic cantaloup on top, flanked with salt and pepper, lilies, some cucumber and maybe some aloe vera, and some of that green-smelling "aquatic" chemical that was so popular in the 90's. It loses the cantaloup and gains some soapiness over time.
At least for me personally, I lost the ability to take these scents seriously after Purell hand sanitizer became ubiquitous and the smell of that "aquatic" chemical mixed with fake cucumber fell from the realms of high perfumery and became the smell of cheap sanitary cleaning. As far as the genre goes, that clever cantaloup places Fleur de Liane close to the top of the heap, but I still prefer Hermes Un Jardin Apres La Mousson, which takes the same basic building blocks but drenches them in enough black pepper to keep it from smelling like hand cleaner.
There are elements of this that remind me of L'Eau D'Issey PH, if Issey was using better ingredients. It's very nice. If it lasted longer, I'd try to find more than a sample. Lasted about two hours on my skin.
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Natural, Yet Disappointing
It's an interesting fragrance, I'll give it that. When you apply, you radiate a sort of seaside scent that is pleasant to the nose. Up close, you get a heavy floral scent that dominates the base. The floral scent is way too feminine for me but I do enjoy the scent it radiates from a distance. I was blown away by how natural it smells. Most of my niche collection smells synthetic when compared to this fragrance. L'Artisan is also quite affordable if you're looking for niche and has amazing bottle and box design.
The big downsides are the performance measures. I don't see the point in spending over $100 if it won't last for more than 3.5 hours. Projection could be a lot better too but I understand it is more of a spring/summer fragrance.
If you're comfortable with florals and don't mind performance issues, maybe you should try this. I give this a big pass though.
Pros: 1. One of the most natural smelling fragrances I've smelled 2. Affordable Niche 3. Bottle and box design are excellent
Cons: 1. Very poor longevity 2. Poor projection 3. Too feminine
excellent. I think it's my favourite "green" fragrance, the one I got what I really expected from. The opening is a mix of fresh cut grass, seaside atmospheres, fresh smell of a rain just falling on a dry country road. The drydown reveals a woody but yet green heart. Long lasting enough. I definitely adore it.
08th September, 2012 (last edited: 10th September, 2012)
Fleur de Liane by L'Artisan Parfumeur - One is initially treated to a invigorating gust of seashore air as well as a faint, watermelon rind. A lush and verdant, vegetal accord, almost fern-like, commingles with the magical calone, providing a fresh sensation. Transitioning to the waiting middle, an enchanting, white floral melange, composed of waxy and lemony magnolia, tuberose with its creamy sweetness and marigold with its tangy bitterness, wonderfully enhances the bracing opening. This misty blend partners with a grassy vetiver, with earth still clinging to its roots, and flows to the awaiting base. Green and foresty oakmoss as well as spicy and earthy patchouli gently rear their heads, and are joined by the woodiness of camphoraceous cedar and sweet guaiacwood. A refreshing drydown ensues. This appealing composition can easily be worn in spring, summer or fall; and has good projection and longevity.
Take a rainy morning in an autumn day. You do feel like going outside and having a long walk in the park, enjoying the falling leaves whirling a while in the wind to end up floating in the rivulets of water that trickle down the path. What perfume would you wear? No doubt, for me. I’d wear Fleur de Liane. By the time I’d be outside, the fruity top notes (watery melon, not very interesting for me, by the way) would have already vanished and I would be envelopped in the deep, damp, strong, earthy vegetal scent (Vetiver? Patchouli? Drenched exotic woods?) that so perfectly matches the smell that the soaked ground exhales. In this cloud that surrounds me and make me feel so perfectly friendly to my environment, a whiff of white flowers (magnolia, lily of the valley…) would remind me of other times of the year, while the persistent, metallic ozone note (which I generally loathe and almost made me discard FdL at the first sniff!) would add a nostalgic marine hue to my walk. If I’d smell more closely my warmed skin, I’d recognize the sort of sweet-smoky- peppery signature of Bertrand Duchaufour, definitely one of my favourite noses.
FdL would stay with me for the whole day, even if my skin doesn’t generally support great longevity, and eventually mingle with what I will be wearing next - I loved its serendipitous encounter on my clothes with Histoires de Parfums Ambre 114.
In short, both thumbs up for a beautifully conceived and evocative fragrance.
This has completely inspired me to write a review and judging by my number of reviews, that's saying a lot. This has risen to the top of my list of favorites of L'artisan (which is probably my favorite house currently). The magic in FdL lies in its ethereal nature. It is very quite with minimal sillage but above average longevity. I also find that it blooms with sweat and causes a carnal aura that is both addictive and seductive. It starts out pale and watery with wonderfully ripe fruity notes of guava, melon and what smells like avocado. However at the same time, I find to be very floral with white floral notes of magnolia and tuberose. But don't tuberose fool you here; it is extremely subdued and only has a line in the entire play. As the topnotes burn off, the florals are intensified along with soft green notes of what I can only describe as, a humid forest that is both damp but cool with its later spring air. The drydown reveals a somewhat mineral facet to the scent, but also reveals the murky, mossy (somewhat) forest floor. During the entire duration of Fleur de Liane, there is a watery, dewy composition that connects the fruity, floral and mossy aspects together. FdL does not have a rough edge at all; it is extremely smooth and well blended. I find Ophelia by Heeley to be in the same vein, but with more indolic white floral notes. Judging by my wardrobe, you will see I am not a fan of aquatic florals. Well this one has stolen my heart...
I completely agree with Ubuandibeme on this one except I'm not getting as much patchouli for some reason. Her review was spot on otherwise as I experienced it. I do see how you could get an aloe vera hint, not cantaloupe maybe but the green melon, and some ferns and lily of the valley. I think it's like stepping into the rainforest after a cool, gentle rain. Right when the sun comes out and the freshness is peak because the sun has started to evaporate the rain drops off the flowers and surrounding undergrowth and the air is cool yet humid. Before the humidity turns sticky warm. I find this cool and fresh. It's lovely but not ground-breaking. It reminds me of a can of air freshener my Mother used to use in our house-no kidding. I have the memory of this type of scent locked away in my subconscious and it came to the surface immediately when I smelled this. I had forgotten it, but there it was back again. I doubt if I'll buy it but I can see how others would like it. It is perfectly enjoyable and lovely anyway.
This is a lovely floral with green hints. The flowers remind me of lily of the valley and lilac, and give a creamy-dreamy note. The impression is of something sweet, charming and innocent. Some green galbanum notes frame this gorgeous floral heart. It develops a light mossy note, with a very faint hint of wood. I don’t get what I would call an aqueous or rain note, apart from a sort of fresh quality underneath the flowers. This is more floral and less green than is my usual style, but it is certainly beautiful.
30th March, 2009 (last edited: 08th June, 2009)
The best green feminine scent I've smelled.
No note ever steps out of place and dominates the others.
Nothing smells synthetic, too sweet, or "old".
It's a perfect balance of greens and sweet, young, wet flowers.
Both thumbs way up.
L'Artisan's new perfume Fleur de Liane is supposed to be a Panamanian rain forest. It reminds me of my mother grwing up (VitaBath and calendula shampoo.) There was an oil drum outside to catch rainwater with ferns and moss growing around it along the base of the house. Then I get an unripe peeled banana first and just quickly, there is a cantaloupe smell, the "aquatic note" in the perfume. Lily of the valley and marigold, and I definitely get the fern and moss, even a bit of aloe vera gel.
08th December, 2008 (last edited: 27th December, 2010)
Fleur de Liane is a vibrant green patchouli, fern-like and verdant! I detect a floral heart, bright in character and somewhat similar to lily of the valley yet non-descript. Slightly acquatic as well. Patchouli in the base for sure! In fact, the patchouli outlives the green essence of this edt by a mile. At first I thought it boring, but after wearing it for the day it leaves me feeling refreshed as I catch a whiff every now and again. Thumbs up, but still not completely certain if it's full bottle worthy.
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A fascinating scent. Whereas Un Jardin Après la Mousson was more or less a green aquatic, this is an aquatic green. Disturbing and artistic just like Mousson, this one is both less joyous and less sad. It is not the survival of a tropical storm. Rather, it has the emotionally flat beauty of the jungle - life and death and beauty thrown in for no reason at all. My wife was actually shocked when she came into the house, wondering what the strange smell was. She refused to believe that it was this scent, diffused into the air, and kept searching for the source.
Just like the jungle, there is beauty and harmony in this scent when one examines it closely. Flowers peek out gently when one pays close attention. A very sniffable green accord maintains several clear notes for several hours, mellowing down to a faint green and musky base. Stays pleasant the whole time, although I prefer the lush beginning and middle.
One of the nicest and most interesting green scents I have ever smelled.
06th November, 2008 (last edited: 19th June, 2009)