Before testing it for the first time nearby the Bangkok airport i expected it was a more compelling, deep, dark and dreadful juice while i stumbled in to something delicately floral, smooth and silky as the oil. Anyway for not more than twenty minutes the juice is a bit fruity, gingery and barely dusty/incensey but in a while it slides towards a sort of silky ambery/floral delicacy. This is an extremely silky/floral delicious amber indeed, with an initial spicy/gingery cool chord soon morphing towards a really delicate final creaminess . The beginning is dusty fresh because of a sparkling ginger and a cardamom/incense/nutmeg spicy accord for a while cloudy and airy. A starring floral presence mastered by an heady lily of the valley starts to take the stage in order to escort the smell towards the final woody and ambery suede that is barely leathery and just a bit shadowy (not a real dark one to me as well as Pomegranate Noir for instance). The juice is smooth, discreet and almost edible with all those culinary and yummy elements. Too much shy to be a real night out winner but pleasant for sure.
The ginger & cedar in the opening come across as bright & lively, but the ginger irritates my nose a little, & it takes 90 minutes before l detect anything floral. Even then it's faint, & more like tuberose than lily to me. Another 30 minutes later the amber base shows up, but it's quiet & woody, not sweet or vanillic at all. On subsequent wearings l like this a little more, but only on very cold days, & it smells vaguely similar to Sheer Obsession, which l already have. l'm giving this a neutral because l didn't get the expected lily note.
The more I try the Jo Malone line the more I realize that purity and clarity are not what I seek in a scent. At first whiff, I really disliked this. There seemed to be two quite distinct layers - one a kind of brutish amber, the other an undefinable, overripe floral (obviously the "ginger lily" half of the equation). But after a short while to two converge into something delightfully woody and musky with nice floral hints. I can imagine walking through a very old growth forest filled with fragrant wildflowers. I am growing to like this scent, but I'm not sure I'll ever love it. Jo Malone seems to embody a kind of post-modernist approach to scents: a genuine commitment to ingredients with little concern for predetermining the outcome. Instead of an omniscient perfumer, there's a predilection for letting the user be "interactive" by encouraging layering.
Advertisement — Reviews continue below