La Via del Profumo Cologne de l'Empereur unfolds by soon its classical hesperidic "eau de cologne" outlook recalling easily in style (in a hyper natural way) historical pieces of perfumes a la Eau Sauvage, Blenheim Bouquet, 4711 Echt Kölnisch Wasser, Roger&Gallet Open, Gold Medal Atkinsons, several Guerlain Aqua Allegoria, Mugler Cologne, Eau de Rochas Homme and more (but also the more recent Il Profvmo Imprinting, partially the Meo Fusciuni's "Note" di Viaggio, Askett&English Essential etc etc). You can easily detect a solid main accord of minty lavender, oregano-basil (probably further aromatic greens), bergamot and neroli. The floral heart is refined and romantic, so royal and aristocratic with a stout rose-hesperides (may be jasmine) ethereal hyper Victorian dominant accord. A minimal final touch of animalic civet provides warmth and rounding appeal affording a twist of vibrant sensuality. The outcome is virile, stiff and classic but somewhat dynamic and encompassing. Natural, charismatic and comforting.
Cologne de L'Empereur,is the Dominique Dubrana "first ever made Cologne"interpretation:Napoleon was a great cologne consumer (at the rate of gallons in a month) and Farina was appointed official supplier.
Well,this version is somewhat different from J.M.Farina Cologne:I think the animalic note present here would have been disgusting for the Empereur (he could not bear Musk,and so Civet I suppose) but this fragrance is very enticing.
CdE is composed in an old fashion way,with two contrasting notes (civet and citrus) exalting herself the one with the other and many components imported from the original Farina's recipie.
I like CdE:to me,it seems a "dirty " citrus bomb,at first.Then,the other
players announce themselves.
Sillage is moderate,longevity is short on me.
A rich and expensive Cologne variation.
Raw materials are first grade as usual with Profumo Brand.
I was expecting something very dry and bitter but this begins suprisingly sweet. As the alcohol burns off there is a brief wonderful candied mixed up accord, mainly floral with a warm neroli, delicate rose and dry lavender all underlined with dusty animalic civet. As this settles after a minute or so, the bergamot rings out clear, more orange than bitter and quite green too. At this point Guerlain's Eau Du Coq springs to mind somewhat for its juxtaposition of the lavender and civet, though this is sweeter, warmer and friendlier. The bergamot coninues to blossom and is joined by a lovely citrus accord with I think contains cedrat and lime. There are sweetish green notes too.
There is now a period where I thought of Creed's Bois de Cedrat. I experience a sheerness and transparency here; it shares the liquid, almost thirst quenching quality of that fragrace. The palpable depth is provided by the fantastic base of civet and maybe a touch of sandalwood? It remains in this balance for quite some time, the citrus and florals fading into the base which endures for many hours. The Guerlainish civet-lavender remains a feature; later on it reminds me more of Mouchoir de Monsieur. The balance of floral notes smells almost plummy at times and really sets this apart.
The overall softness and roundness define this and separate it from those other Eaux and similar fragrances. The layering is suprisingly coherent to me and very well conceived giving me a fascinating insight into how a truly natural version of this, perhaps my favourite fragrance style, works. The citrus oils are not sharp or acidic and overall it suprised me how they blend in and even take more time to come to life that the florals.
The civet endures to keep this fresh and funky at the same time.
Longevity is excellent with the base accord, sillage is on the low side.