Reviews of Aziyade by Parfum d'Empire

    Find out more about Aziyade by Parfum d'Empire in the Basenotes Fragrance Directory


    Showing 1 to 13 of 13.
    Way Off Scenter's avatar

    United States United States

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    Genre: Oriental

    Aziyadé’s spiced citrus opening is so very lovely that a lasting composition based solely upon it would be worth the price of a bottle. Alas, the initial gesture is short-lived, and a boozy, syrupy dried fruit accord is quick to join the citrus and spices. Its weight sends Aziyadé plummeting down to earth and aligns it closely with Feminité du Bois, Donna Karan’s Chaos, and several entries in the Serge Lutens line, though Aziyadé does remain a brighter and more transparent composition than any of these predecessors. The abundance of fruit and spices leaves Aziyadé smelling quite “foody” to me, despite a subtle frankincense note that flits in and out of the background.

    Prominent vanilla base notes add to the comestible impression, and Aziyadé spends several hours in familiar oriental spiced Christmas pudding territory. The drydown is a vanillic sweet amber with a generous dose of animalic labdanum, which while pleasant and natural smelling, is also fairly flat and ordinary. I want to like Aziyadé better than I do, but ironically enough the beauty of its top notes works against it, making the remainder of the scent seem impoverished in its mere adequacy.

    09 June, 2014

    Colin Maillard's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Fruity, exotic, edible opening of sweet orange hardcandy, with a round, resinous caramel base. Sweet, but very balanced and dry – no "liquid", cloying milky sweetness. If you inspire with strenght you reach the dry, obscure basenotes which will then emerge more cleary later on. The main note is a juicy, dense, spicy fruity-floral note, like in Lutens' Arabie but less opulent, more balanced, still rich but not "that" rich and syrupy. Gradually a beautiful woody/balsamic accord with fir balsam and tobacco notes comes up, you also feel the spicy note and a patchouli vibe. All is perfect like a well-executed opera concert, all components are alive, dynamic, bright and vibrant (a quality I found in all Parfum d'Empire fragrances, which is one of the reasons I am such a fan of Msr. Corticchiato). The texture is not particulary complex and "tight" as in other scents by this house. The tobacco note is subtle and silky, dusty and powdery like pipe tobacco, really elegant and discreet, keeping the scent earthy together with patchouli. The fruity-floral accord never fades out completely, so the composition is constantly freshened with this uplifting springy feel, keeping it lively and juicy without becoming syrupy or sticky. Which is good. Must admit I personally love this, as I am quite a fan of all these notes and the composition is just brilliant; the only "cons" are the fact that the drydown is quite subtle and light (but persistent), and that of course you have to "really like" the resinous-fruity-balsamic accord, otherwise it can become boring and cloying after a while – it is quite distinctive, one of those fragrances you either love or dislike.

    8,5/10

    22 April, 2014

    Jack Hunter's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Totally exotic fragrance with a big dose of plum with dates and fruits. Within this mix is a touch of cumin giving the scent a slight dirty body odour scent mixing in with the fruits.

    There is a lot going on within this composition with hints of ginger, patchouli and other notes all vying for your attention.

    All in all if you like exotic fruity scents that is complex and interesting then check this one out.

    09 February, 2013

    professor goggles's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Bubblegum! After an initial blast of fresh fruit (I get apple) it settles into a delicious spicy-sweet gourmand that smells to me like classic pink bubblegum. The combination of cinnamon, cloves, orange, something floral (ylang?) and something cool and glassy (wintergreen?) is intoxicating. I didn't think I liked sweet scents, but I seem to be discovering more that I enjoy lately. What makes this one work is the resinous incense, cistus and spicy-sour cumin that keep it warm without being cloying. I don't have a B.O. association with cumin, however. To me it's invigoratingly herbal-bitter-spicy in the same way celery is, not sour like unwashed armpit. Others feel differently.

    12 September, 2012

    redrose's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    What an extraordinary perfume! Maybe I'm just demonstrating my ignorance of the amber/woody/oriental genre here, since it's not my favourite, but I was sent a sample of Aziyade along with my order of N'Aimez Que Moi from Les Senteurs, and it astonished me. I liked the opening blast best, with its strong lemon-grass, cumin, cardamom and apple puree melange, the effect Luca Turin calls "Persian dessert". I think he's exactly right. I love Middle Eastern food and cook a lot of Persian, Moroccan, Israeli and Lebanese dishes; Aziyade reminds me of how my kitchen - and hands - smell after concocting a tagine or khoresh. Mouth-wateringly lovely!! Not sure I'd actually want to wear it, as I don't want to smell like a walking entree, but I do like it very much for occasional, discreet, wear around the house. Especially when I'm hungry for exotic cuisine.
    The drydown became quite linear and boring, with something quite bitter predominating. I spritzed on some Rose Absolue to soften the edges, and yes, a Persian dessert emerged!

    05 May, 2012

    iodine's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Whenever I wear this fragrance I feel like a giant… candy for adults! There are some fruits, fresh (citrus and pomegranate) and dried (plump, fleshy,voluptuous dates), some liquorous essence, some spices (cinnamon and a piercing cumin being the most prominent and detectable ones) enveloping a heart of sweet resins, vanilla and a bitter touch of incense.
    The beginning is far more interesting than the development, with the line signature citrus-resins-spices notes declined “oriental”, but I find the fragrance warm, sensual and very enjoyable in the whole.

    30th November, 2011

    sherapop's avatar

    United States United States

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    Parfums d'Empire AZIYADE is a woody oriental which opens slightly sour but soon thereafter smooths out into a rather spicy, slightly sweet composition suitable for lads and lasses alike. The wood notes are dark and seductive, and there is much less “pulverized incense effect” than in WAZAMBA. Actually, the wood seems more like oil-burnished mahogany or cherry or teak than carbonized incense. There is a bit too much cumin (and carob?) for my taste, but I'm sure that many oriental lovers will appreciate this creation.

    02 July, 2011 (Last Edited: 11th July, 2011)

    calnadur's avatar

    Switzerland Switzerland

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    Carob is by far the dominant note here, and it's not one for the faint-hearted.

    Not necessarily my scene but I appreciate its rather distinctive and powerful character.

    17 June, 2011

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    Aziyadé is a rather rich formulation with pomegranade and lemon in the top-note, giving way to very spicy chords of cardamon and caraway after a few seconds. The base consists of the oriental classics: amber, patchouli, vanilla. It's a scent which gives me the impression of a smooth, velvety piece of cloth. When the darker, earthier notes prevail in the end, they arrange themselves in a lush and seductive way. Nevertheless, I don't find this scent extraordinary. It is too similar to many other "niche-perfumes" in the "Amber-Oriental-fashion". If you're not into niche, think Fendi's defunct Theorema or a diluted version of Jungle Elephant by Kenzo. The creation has a weird touch of oriental flamboyance, but is lacking in originality.

    07 March, 2010

    Ms Rochambeau's avatar

    United States United States

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    This is what PidgeonMurderer said in his review:

    "Comparing to Arabie this has a much more pronounced cumin/cardamom tone [in] it and I am sure this a bit sweaty like tone will cause a big problems for many.
    Aziyade is a full-bodied, crisply sweet, and absolutely delicious. I am sure if it were any stronger or longer lasting it would be illegal."

    He's Right! On me Aziyade is Rochas' Femme with some candied fruits and a big "sweaty armpit" note right out in front...sounds funny, but it's a GOOD thing. Problem is, like others have mentioned, the sillage is not great and after the initial wild blast that borders on indecency, it settles down very fast into a softly sweet and warm skinscent with a bit of cumin wafting faintly in and out. Too bad, because sometimes being "illegal" is exactly what I'm after in a scent. I like it though and I think it would be the perfect thing if you had seduction in mind with a willing victim and the two of you were sitting someplace veeerrry close.

    16 January, 2010

    Asha's avatar

    United States United States

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    Parfum d'Empire Aziyade

    Notes: pomegranate, crystallized date, almond, orange and prune, cardamom, cinnamon, ginger, Egyptian cumin, carob, frankincense, vanilla, Madagascar vanilla absolute, patchouli, musk, cistus (from luckyscent,com)

    To my nose, Aziyade has a rough start--piercing leather and tea notes along with an almost sickening spiced and stewed fruit accord. The spice blend is actually quite nice, and contains cinnamon, clove and cardamom. The less appetizing part is a thinly sweet, waxy, inedible cherry and plum combination. Thankfully the fruit simmers down considerably within ten minutes, and this is when Aziyade takes a good turn. Think about the perfumer who created Ambre Russe in all its boozy, smoky, spicy, leathery, ambery glory, and what he might do if he wanted to make his own version of L'Artisan's Tea for Two. Here you'll find Aziyade. In fact, the middle and late drydown stages of Aziyade are far better than T42 because it does not turn to potpourri as T42 has a tendency to do. In contrast, Aziyade's drydown is a warm and pleasant light amber, lightly spiced and balsamic with labdanum and vanilla. Add to this some decent sillage, and you have a rich, spicy, smoky leather oriental which gives and gives.

    07 November, 2009

    foetidus's avatar

    United States United States

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    Yes, I experience the similarity to Arabie, too… Aziyadé quite reminds me of the Lutens’ creation with its dried fruit / fruity ambiance. This, at first, is a softer, gentler version of Arabie (or if you prefer: a weakened, watered-down version.) I like this one very much… especially because of its richer resinous background that is not overwhelmed by the dried fruits as happens in Arabie. Although not quite Lutenesque, I see Aziyadé as real competition to my favorite Lutens creation. I get a souk-like spiciness in the heart level with the cinnamon and cumin taking the prominent position in the accord. The heart accord of Aziyadé is still backgrounded by the date note and I love that effect in both fragrances. For the drydown, Aziyadé then turns musky and patchouli / incensy, and this adds more breadth to the fragrance and is a departure from Arabie. I don’t find the incense very strong, but it is present just enough to move the fragrance into a different direction from where it started. Except for the toned-down fruit and dried fruit notes, I don’t get much sweet or vanilla out of it… I appreciate that. The one problem I find with Aziyadé is it’s longevity as a sillage producer. Although it lasts quite well as a beautiful skin scent, it seems to lose its sillage too soon. It’s a beautiful fragrance -- well-made, enjoyable, and an easier wear than Arabie. This just might be my chosen replacement when my Arabie runs out.

    21st October, 2009

    PigeonMurderer's avatar

    Finland Finland

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    Yet another intriguing creation from this man and his stylish niche house. Aziyade is very Lutens-like fragrance, and it can be seen as a close relative for Arabie in particular.

    Pure oriental gourmand with loads of caramelized fruits, bits of loukhoum with thick icing of dusted sugar, and spices.

    Comparing to Arabie this has a much more pronounced cumin/cardamom tone it and I am sure this a bit sweaty like tone will cause a big problems for many.
    Aziyade is a full-bodied, crisply sweet, and absolutely delicious. I am sure if it were any stronger or longer lasting it would be illegal.

    30th July, 2009

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