Total Reviews: 10
A gourmand oriental!
I did not get the fruits or spices - and then only marginally, until into the dry down. This began for me with a strong blast of cumin and frankincense. Five minutes later a very strong musk enveloped these two (the strength of Lutens' Koublai Khan).
I find so called "dirty" scents extremely sensual and sexual and love them when they are done well. This is one of the best. Cumin is used in Empire's Azemour along with orange, but does not come near the quality of other cumins out there - my favorite is J'Ose by Laroche - in Aziyade the cumin and musk combo is quite stunning. To be worn by young men and women for the purpose of pure seduction.
High marks for this one, both as a scent and as an aphrodisiac.
Parfum d'Empire Aziyade is a fantastic Corticchiato's spicy-oriental with a sort of aromatic-resinous (vaguely boozy-mentholated, coconutty and tobacco veined) initial plummines leaning over the side of the "Indie accords" a la Slumberhouse's (Jeke and Baque jump partially on mind for instance) or of several House of Matriarch's (vaguely also scents a la Idole de Lubin, Lutens Fille en Aiguille, Arabie or Histoires de parfums 1740 jump vaguely on mind for several of their characteristics). The opening is really spicy, almondy-gingery and intoxicating. I detect a central accord of yummy spices, almonds, plum/peaches, dry tobacco, aromatic herbs, orange blossoms and resins (fir resins and a touch of frankincense), may be exotic ylang-ylang too which represents the oriental backbone of this really aromatic concoction. The connection between almond and aromatic spices (cumin and ginger in particular) arouses a sort of minty piquant undertone in the air. I detect also a connection of mysterious floral notes (violet leaves, neroli?) and (apparently) red berries (probably the pomegranate's effect) in a sort of olfactory sodality which anyway is not enough to exhume the far superior (drier, more classically sophisticated, musky and subtle) Femite du Bois. This Parfum d'Empire's fragrance is indeed more properly "wild", "yippie" and crude imo to be compared to such a classic Shiseido's giant, the cumin "gassiness" is in here really powerful, the fruitiness central (and not accessorial for the floral-musky notes as in the even fruity Feminite du Bois) and the resins influence is impressive. Anyway, the final vanilla is well calibrated while musk and may be opoponax settle down the basic sticky texture of this "greedy" aroma (it seems finally to be dealing with a sort of really spicy caramellous accord of nutmeg, cinnamon, dark/red fruits jam and "candied glue"). I detect in the final phase the Coca Cola's vibe cause the connections of fruits, dark patchouli, resins and spices enhances effectively that sort of dark pungent/sweet plummines (which in this case is anyway denser and more rounded). Anyway I appreciate a sort of really carnal warmth exuding from this really sensual aroma and a final floral-woody spark (sandalwood ?) providing a touch of more traditional "european" subtle texture. The oriental dry down is more "tamed down" and light in a way it smells more balanced, confortable and wearable. In this final stage the resinous presence is less dense and a frankincense's vibe is more plain and notable. Another great job for Parfum d'Empire by the talented Corticchiato.
23rd March, 2015 (last edited: 05th May, 2015)
Fruity, exotic, edible opening of sweet orange hardcandy, with a round, resinous caramel base. Sweet, but very balanced and dry – no "liquid", cloying milky sweetness. The main note is a juicy, dense, spicy fruity-floral note, like in Lutens' Arabie but less opulent, more balanced, still rich but not "that" rich and syrupy. Gradually a beautiful woody/balsamic accord with fir balsam and tobacco notes comes up, you also feel the spicy note and a patchouli vibe. All works with flawless harmony like a well-executed opera concert, all components are alive, dynamic, bright and vibrant. The tobacco note is subtle and silky, dusty and powdery like pipe tobacco, really elegant and discreet, keeping the scent earthy together with patchouli. The fruity-floral accord never fades out completely, so the composition is constantly freshened with this uplifting springy feel, keeping it lively and juicy without becoming syrupy or sticky (which is good). Must admit I personally like this, although I am not a fan of this type of spicy-resinous-candied notes, but the composition here is just brilliant; the only "cons" are the fact that the drydown is quite subtle, light and a bit generic on the synthetic side (but pleasant, and persistent), and that of course you have to "really like" the resinous-fruity-balsamic accord, otherwise it can become boring and cloying quite quickly.
22nd April, 2014 (last edited: 09th November, 2014)
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Bubblegum! After an initial blast of fresh fruit (I get apple) it settles into a delicious spicy-sweet gourmand that smells to me like classic pink bubblegum. The combination of cinnamon, cloves, orange, something floral (ylang?) and something cool and glassy (wintergreen?) is intoxicating. I didn't think I liked sweet scents, but I seem to be discovering more that I enjoy lately. What makes this one work is the resinous incense, cistus and spicy-sour cumin that keep it warm without being cloying. I don't have a B.O. association with cumin, however. To me it's invigoratingly herbal-bitter-spicy in the same way celery is, not sour like unwashed armpit. Others feel differently.
What an extraordinary perfume! Maybe I'm just demonstrating my ignorance of the amber/woody/oriental genre here, since it's not my favourite, but I was sent a sample of Aziyade along with my order of N'Aimez Que Moi from Les Senteurs, and it astonished me. I liked the opening blast best, with its strong lemon-grass, cumin, cardamom and apple puree melange, the effect Luca Turin calls "Persian dessert". I think he's exactly right. I love Middle Eastern food and cook a lot of Persian, Moroccan, Israeli and Lebanese dishes; Aziyade reminds me of how my kitchen - and hands - smell after concocting a tagine or khoresh. Mouth-wateringly lovely!! Not sure I'd actually want to wear it, as I don't want to smell like a walking entree, but I do like it very much for occasional, discreet, wear around the house. Especially when I'm hungry for exotic cuisine.
The drydown became quite linear and boring, with something quite bitter predominating. I spritzed on some Rose Absolue to soften the edges, and yes, a Persian dessert emerged!
Whenever I wear this fragrance I feel like a giant… candy for adults! There are some fruits, fresh (citrus and pomegranate) and dried (plump, fleshy,voluptuous dates), some liquorous essence, some spices (cinnamon and a piercing cumin being the most prominent and detectable ones) enveloping a heart of sweet resins, vanilla and a bitter touch of incense.
The beginning is far more interesting than the development, with the line signature citrus-resins-spices notes declined “oriental”, but I find the fragrance warm, sensual and very enjoyable in the whole.
This is what PidgeonMurderer said in his review:
"Comparing to Arabie this has a much more pronounced cumin/cardamom tone [in] it and I am sure this a bit sweaty like tone will cause a big problems for many.
Aziyade is a full-bodied, crisply sweet, and absolutely delicious. I am sure if it were any stronger or longer lasting it would be illegal."
He's Right! On me Aziyade is Rochas' Femme with some candied fruits and a big "sweaty armpit" note right out in front...sounds funny, but it's a GOOD thing. Problem is, like others have mentioned, the sillage is not great and after the initial wild blast that borders on indecency, it settles down very fast into a softly sweet and warm skinscent with a bit of cumin wafting faintly in and out. Too bad, because sometimes being "illegal" is exactly what I'm after in a scent. I like it though and I think it would be the perfect thing if you had seduction in mind with a willing victim and the two of you were sitting someplace veeerrry close.
Parfum d'Empire Aziyade
Notes: pomegranate, crystallized date, almond, orange and prune, cardamom, cinnamon, ginger, Egyptian cumin, carob, frankincense, vanilla, Madagascar vanilla absolute, patchouli, musk, cistus (from luckyscent,com)
To my nose, Aziyade has a rough start--piercing leather and tea notes along with an almost sickening spiced and stewed fruit accord. The spice blend is actually quite nice, and contains cinnamon, clove and cardamom. The less appetizing part is a thinly sweet, waxy, inedible cherry and plum combination. Thankfully the fruit simmers down considerably within ten minutes, and this is when Aziyade takes a good turn. Think about the perfumer who created Ambre Russe in all its boozy, smoky, spicy, leathery, ambery glory, and what he might do if he wanted to make his own version of L'Artisan's Tea for Two. Here you'll find Aziyade. In fact, the middle and late drydown stages of Aziyade are far better than T42 because it does not turn to potpourri as T42 has a tendency to do. In contrast, Aziyade's drydown is a warm and pleasant light amber, lightly spiced and balsamic with labdanum and vanilla. Add to this some decent sillage, and you have a rich, spicy, smoky leather oriental which gives and gives.
Yes, I experience the similarity to Arabie, too… Aziyadé quite reminds me of the Lutens’ creation with its dried fruit / fruity ambiance. This, at first, is a softer, gentler version of Arabie (or if you prefer: a weakened, watered-down version.) I like this one very much… especially because of its richer resinous background that is not overwhelmed by the dried fruits as happens in Arabie. Although not quite Lutenesque, I see Aziyadé as real competition to my favorite Lutens creation. I get a souk-like spiciness in the heart level with the cinnamon and cumin taking the prominent position in the accord. The heart accord of Aziyadé is still backgrounded by the date note and I love that effect in both fragrances. For the drydown, Aziyadé then turns musky and patchouli / incensy, and this adds more breadth to the fragrance and is a departure from Arabie. I don’t find the incense very strong, but it is present just enough to move the fragrance into a different direction from where it started. Except for the toned-down fruit and dried fruit notes, I don’t get much sweet or vanilla out of it… I appreciate that. The one problem I find with Aziyadé is it’s longevity as a sillage producer. Although it lasts quite well as a beautiful skin scent, it seems to lose its sillage too soon. It’s a beautiful fragrance -- well-made, enjoyable, and an easier wear than Arabie. This just might be my chosen replacement when my Arabie runs out.
Yet another intriguing creation from this man and his stylish niche house. Aziyade is very Lutens-like fragrance, and it can be seen as a close relative for Arabie in particular.
Pure oriental gourmand with loads of caramelized fruits, bits of loukhoum with thick icing of dusted sugar, and spices.
Comparing to Arabie this has a much more pronounced cumin/cardamom tone it and I am sure this a bit sweaty like tone will cause a big problems for many.
Aziyade is a full-bodied, crisply sweet, and absolutely delicious. I am sure if it were any stronger or longer lasting it would be illegal.