The unisex candied fruit accord signature of many SL frags pushes Fille en Aiguilles into feminine territory to quickly for my taste. A high quality blend but overall, I prefer this frag on my wife to myself as I was just unable to pull off the syrupy sweet / smokey woods.
%50 The first landing too hard; Has a very complex structure. It's so many of spices to choose from and even hard to distinguish what is. I'm getting incense and ginger. But a little cinnamon and other spices are pushing her too crushing. I mix it up until now I smell a fragrance blend of spices. Sandalwood and bile or both. Resinous smell of pine cones to make itself felt as a slight burn. As the last notes of clove smell still continues to burn correctly. And not according to me this is quite a heavy perfume. Harass anyone beside me smelling odor. Hani was a kid that looks like sugar cubes had shades of red candies. 'd Suck them but sugar and spice, cinnamon would taste. This perfume smells like their work. Towards the end, I could get a little cedar. Like anyone in such a manner that this perfume not alone.
Top: Fruits, Spices.
Heart: Mediterranean laurel, pine needle.
Base: Vetiver, Incense.
%50 Ilk acilis cok sert; Cok karmasIk bir yapisi var. O kadar coklar ki, baharatlarin ne oldugunu ayirmak ve secmek bile zor. Tutsu ve zencefil aliyorum. Biraz tarcin ama diger baharatlar onu cok eziyor ve bastiriyorlar. Ben simdiye dek bu kadar karisIk baharat harmanli bir koku daha koklamadim. Sandal agaci ve od ya da her ikisi birden. Recinemsi cam kozalagi kokusu hafif yanik olarak kendini hissettiriyor. Son notalarina dogru yanik karanfil gibi bir koku hala devam ediyor. Oldukca agir bir parfum bu ve bana gore degil. Yanimda koklayan herkesi bezdirdi kokusu. Hani kucukken kup sekere benzeyen kirmizi tonlarinda sekerler vardi. Emerdik onlari ama seker ve baharat, tarcin tadi gelirdi. Bu parfum de iste bunlar gibi kokuyor. Sonlara dogru biraz sedir de alabildim. Bu parfum kimsenin begenecegi tarzda degil yalniz.
Ust: Meyve, Baharatlar.
Kalp: Akdeniz defnesi, Igneli cam.
Baz: Vetiver, Tutsu.
I did expect more from Serge Lutens. This aint complex as Arabie, neither innovative as Ambre Sultan. For me it's just a spicied and incensed pine smell with low projection and weak lasting power.
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I got the pine and sap for then first 2 hours, then it was boringly candied fruits and spices ( cinnamon and cloves) .I would have preferred a woody dry down.
This starts sugary and piney. Very piney. Then dries smoke-like into pines. It went on for a good 4 hours. Not what I expect from a Serge Lutens that are usually so aggressive, thick and never-ending. Yes it was sweet. Yes it was spicy but... I liked this at first sniff but the second sniff wasn't even there so...
Update on my review below. Starts with a resined and somewhat sugary chord. The cool resins very quickly give way to the typical Lutenesque rich, somewhat foody scent. I never do get pine here. After a couple of hours most of the sweetness burns off and the scent is pleasant in a herbal-woody way, but it is not outstanding.
F&A is an exercise in patience and speedy reflexes. The initial pine notes are so quick, so ephemeral, so fleeting. On my skin they are done in about 3 seconds. For the next hour or so, there is the typical Lutens foody-spice chord. It is OK, not cloying. I get cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg... a Christmas sort of vibe, along with some candied peel. Just when I'm beginning to despair, and around the 2 hour mark, the spiced sweetness abates and some woody and pine notes shyly emerge. The scent winds up as a near neighbour of Fou D'Absinthe. F&A is a bit sweeter, and not as woody.
I wish the frankincense was more prominent, and given a green, resinous profile.
And I definitely wish the pine had more oomph and presence.
Those seeking a distinctive pine scent are hard-pressed to find it here, in my opinion.
07th November, 2009 (last edited: 01st November, 2012)
Slimmer, younger sister of Chêne (2004), as I guess pine trees are indeed like oaks after a diet. Roughly. There are ten other perfumes from Serge Lutens which have either ‘wood’ or the name of a tree in their names (not counting sandalwood). Facts are such a comfort, don’t you find ? Anyway, to continue the pine-theme for a moment : the top of this has heady outreach, like umbrella pines, glory of the Mediterranean, limber women shaking their hair out way up high. This opening has a fine kerosene/caramel ambiguity to it, related to the camphor/ chocolate of Bornéo 1834 or the methylated indoles of Tubéreuse Criminelle. Unfortunately, the delicious teetering between piny and sweet can’t last, and the scent soon descends into a luscious maple syrup candy, into that ole Serge Lutens soup o’fruits, the toasted plums of Arabie. And there, amid exotica and treacle, it comes, you might think to a sticky end, for this stage hangs around for really some time, but then eventually, the whole thing lightens up with vetiver and incense on the breeze. Tricky to give a verdict on : imagine the thumb wiggling. By the way : the name has several plays on words going on more or less pointlessly at the same time and so may well be a quotation from Derrida (isn’t everything a quotation ?), but forget that ‘aiguilles’ means ‘pine needles’ as well as ‘high heels’. What you need to know is that ‘de fil en aiguilles’ is an idiom for ‘seamless transition’; you might say it of a smooth talker who moved from subject to subject with perfect fluency. That’s the sales pitch, the pitch pine, of this scent.
“a somewhat luminous woodsy-oriental fragrance In which pine needles meld with vetiver, frankincense, fruit and spice notes” (osmoz : somewhat !)