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English Breakfast presents opening that I’m not sure If I should call it “synthetic” or “sophisticated”… I can see it both ways: It’s unique and, while not mysterious, it IS ambiguous. The opening is a citrus / spicy / green / floral concoction that I quite enjoy… synthetic or not. It’s smooth and complex; after the first five minutes, the accord seems to morph into a skin scent: It has picked up a floral texture and I can detect the echo of some woody notes and resins in the background. It would be quite impressive it if weren’t so weak. At this point, the fragrance has little sillage, but it has an almost-good lasting ability as a subtle, refined accord.
10th December, 2010 (Last Edited: 26th December, 2010)
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Someone more fashion-conscious than I (Sarah Palin, for instance) will know who started the fad for citrus+ginger/saffron+light woods+incense which has been sweeping Perfumistadom and which is at its best in Diptyque’s L’eau de Tarocco. The opening of this has a wonderful, cool, rippling delicacy, a pure air which has you wanting to breathe deeper but which you somehow can’t get more of than is already there. It then warms up and flattens out and becomes an elusive let-down. It follows a line quite like his mb01 for Biehl Parfumkunstpretentiousnonsense – a dive from high clear (bergamot, gardenia) into warm swamp (jasmine, sandalwood/cedar). After three tries, I reluctantly conclude that the beauty of the first ten minutes is Not Enough, and that this is a nothing with exquisite edges, more a Zen conundrum than a scent. The title is a joke, like Heston Blumenthal’s bacon-and-egg ice-cream, but don’t worry, you won’t split your sides
31st August, 2009