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Reviews of Lumière Noire pour Homme by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Total Reviews: 48
I was wearing it in a very cold weather, at home, in the smoke-filled pubs, in old big empty cinema and it was always there, but every time different. It's like you smell some kind of game for throne between ingredients which make various alliances and sometimes cooperate and sometimes they in war. Name perfectly describes what you witness. Unique perfume.

It seems to me that Francis Kurkdjian sometimes makes simple fragrances that do not change because, as he mentioned in one interview, everything revolves around top notes which sell the product. This is a perfume made, deliberately or not, for those who want the fragrance to be in constant change.

Do not be afraid of rose here, most people will not even recognize it except in some middle part of journey.

Not very lasting but definitely very interesting, it grows on you.
28th January, 2018
This is truly awful although perhaps I am biased as it reminds me disconcertingly so of how the elderly cleaning lady smelt who used to swirl around the house noisily with the vacuum cleaner when I was a child.
Cheap perfume and bleach. Phew. She herself was a kind cheerful soul so its not by negative association. This is just dreadful but look at the ingredients. Patchouli and mugwort or whatever the spices added to the Rose...And to think you pay a premium for this.
Cheap 80s perfume and bleach. Enough said.

Projection: 3/5
Longevity: 4/5
29th November, 2017
When I first tried this on paper at a store - it was a gorgeous rose accord, bright and airy, radiant, and hints of woods. Once I received a sample a few months later, it was quite different: a dull, airy, accord of woods with hints of rose. There is hardly any patchouli, and a prevailing mustiness. The mustiness subsides after a while, with the rose becoming a bit more prominent with some added hint of spices. One spots the vaguest traces of cardamom and cumin. Thereafter it soon subsides into an insubstantial dry down. Additionally it is thin, weak, and overall - nondescript. Anyone curious about this should consider Cartier's Declaration d'Un Soir as a better alternative - or even, perhaps, Domenico Caraceni 1913. Or better still, step out a bit more and consider the absolutely superb Eau de Protection / Rossy de Palma by Etat Libre d'Orange.

06th February, 2017
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Lumiere is the second fragrance I have sampled from MFK. It's an odd sort of scent that I initially really liked, but after several wearings I find it's a bit too unusual for me to want in my wardrobe.

The note pyramid says "spiced rose" but it ought to say "sweet" or "candied" as the rose note has a significant amount of sugary aspect, especially in the first hour. The sweetness cuts down on the dusty or powdery aspect typical to masculine rose fragrances, but unfortunately makes this seem more like a teenage scent. There's an underlying tone of patchouli and dry spices, but it remains rose centric but with very sweet chewing gum aspect. It's a nice scent, but not for a 50 year old man. Although an EDP the sillage is relatively tame but the longevity is excellent, going well into the evening from three sprays. I just can't wear this one though, so a generous neutral for me.

28th December, 2016 (last edited: 03rd December, 2017)
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom
The opening combines a spicy rose with citrus-orangey background that gives the rose a somewhat fresh entrée. The rose is gently spicy, with the spiciness being gentle; more with with light elegance than with heavy darkness. Interestingly, although a distinctly floral entity, the rose is not really sweet on my skin.

The development showcases a number of permutations of the rose theme, adding whiffs of cinnamon, later cumin and at times ambery whiffs, all contributing to the spicy side to various degrees. Herbal undertones come and go, and eventually the spicy rose is slowly fading away.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and eight hours of longevity, with the last couple of hours being close to my skin.

A spring rose with gentle spice, neither heavy nor ceremonial; a rose for those otherwise not inclined to like floral scents. 3.25/5.
03rd August, 2016
A high watermark of male perfumery. There is no need for me to add to some of the brilliant detail reviews below, just wanted to express my love for this brilliant fragrance that makes rose so right for men.
28th March, 2016 (last edited: 11th April, 2016)
Lumiere Noire Pour Homme is first I've tried of Maison Francis Kurkdjian and it definitely does not disappoint. It does more to intrigue me than it does to thrill me but sometimes that can be a very good thing. At the core of the fragrance is a very hearty rose (it smells like a few different types of roses, in fact) and pretty much all of the other notes take a back seat to it. In fact, I might detect a little bit of the cinnamon but hardly anything non-rose at all.

LNPH comes off as a semi-fresh rose that is slightly sweet and slightly dark but not remotely a gourmand. It comes off as natural and with a lot of depth---each smell reveals a lot. Despite the spicy and earthy note list, it doesn't come off very much as either.

As some other reviewers have pointed out, LNPH comes off wholly unisex, not being specifically masculine or feminine in any particular respect. I enjoy it on my skin but it could work just as well on women's. It's also versatile with respect to use, though it probably leans formal rather than casual, and definitely it works for both cold and warm weather scenarios.

Great on projection and longevity for an EDT, this is certainly a promising introduction to the line as far as value, as well as the abovementioned craftsmanship.

I'm not sure I'd opt for a bottle of this because there are other roses that I prefer, and that work a little bit better on my skin as a man, but I'm certainly intrigued and will come back to this. A deep and fascinating composition.

7 out of 10
11th November, 2015
The first thing I smell is a combination of cumin and cinnamon – a rather unusual combination that I would have a difficult time getting used to if it remained for very long, but no problem there. Then the Artemisia enters in along with the patchouli and the accord becomes downright enjoyable: and this turns out to be primary accord.

Five notes – cumin, artemisia, rose, cinnamon, and patchouli – dominate an accord that holds elements of each in an excellent balance. To me one of the sides of the aromatic pentagon is lesser that the other four – I find the rose side lacking in intensity, it is hit and miss in performance on my skin. The other four form a shimmering interplay that unfortunately doesn’t last very long.

The projection of the middle accord is a little shallow and the fragrance has longevity problems: Lumiere Noire PH simply doesn’t last very long before it’s a skin scent which lasts a couple of hours. It is an intriguing accord… translucent, warm, sensual, and a bit mysterious. It is the thumbs-up kind of aroma I would be able to enjoy over an extended period… too bad its longevity is so it's a neutral for me.
28th August, 2015
From my understanding, this has been reformulated. In that case it's no wonder I was disappointed when I recently purchased a bottle of Lumiere Noire. The opening accord used to be one of the best around. It was bright and ethereal...a beautiful watery rose with elements of white light and natural greenery. But I didn't buy a bottle because I found the mid and base too feminine. A few years later, I thought, "Why not?" and ordered a bottle online. But when I sprayed it, that beautiful opening was nowhere in sight. It's still a nice beginning, but it's nothing like it was, and what was once the best part of this fragrance is now a shell of its former self. It's flatter and seems to have lost some of it's "lumiere." Too bad, because the most recent formulation is actually a bit darker and more masculine in the middle, the cinnamon/patchouli/cumin notes on equal par with the rose. However, it's a shame they messed around with the opening, and for that I'm going 'neutral' on Lumiere Noire.
11th October, 2014 (last edited: 02nd November, 2014)
Lumière Noire pour Homme is absolutely sophisticated and elegant. It is a gentle rose with a hint of patchouli and spices. It is very lyrical, poetic and just gets better as the day progresses. It lasts a very long time on me. I cannot stop smelling myself.
29th September, 2014
The name means "Black Light" and sure enough, this beautiful composition is based on a range of dark and light elements, each playing off each other to create a chiaroscuro effect. The bracing fougere opening of lavender and bergamot lays down a brackish bed for the liquor-like pink rose that unfolds next; the creamy orange-inflected musk in the dry-down is brought into sharp focus by the bitter green artemsia; the shy patchouli given texture by the dusty cumin and cinnamon.

It's ultra refined, with no sharp edges anywhere, and sits light years away from brutish, bullying rose-patchouli scents such as Portrait of a Lady, Black Aoud, and the like. For some, that refinement may be a drawback, but I think there is room enough in the genre for a rose-patchouli fragrance that doesn't necessarily hit you over the head with its boldness or roughness.

Indeed, I see enormous appeal in this scent's quiet sensuality and subtle light-dark effects. For me, it is, like its female equivalent, the perfect embodiment of a dark rose suitable for the daylight hours. It is slightly formal in the first half of its life, but later on, a smidgen of sexuality creeps in on the back of the creamy musk and hints of cumin. It's kind of like the white shirt of an architect which starts out starched and pristine and buttoned all the way to the top but that by the end of the day carries some man musk around the collar and is buttoned down a bit to reveal a hint of chest hair. Comfortably masculine, but refined and silky, and knows how to say quite a lot without shouting across the room at you.

By the way, I find the dry down to be eerily close to the Narciso Rodriguez Musc for Her, but this is more masculine in character and heavier on the spices and orange. In summary, a beautiful rose/orange pomander/musk fragrance that is about 1000% more refined and quiet in character than your run-of-the-mill rose and patchouli fragrances out there. Two very big thumbs up!
22nd August, 2014
Nothing special jumps out at me for this fragrance. I found this dull and boring a little cinnamon a generous dosage of spices for some strange reason I don't pick up the patchouli. On the upside it does last on my skin.
10th July, 2014
Genre: Fougère

Francis Kurkdjian has a penchant for high quality re-imaginings of historical classics: witness Enlévement au Sérail, Promesse de l’Aube, and even Narciso Rodriguez for Her, which seem respectively to channel Mitsouko, Chant d’Aròmes, and Bois des Îles through a contemporary olfactory sensibility. In each of these cases Kurkdjian avoids pastiche by streamlining olfactory contours and sharpening contrasts between accords to reveal underlying structural details. It’s a kind of olfactory liposuction, but one that magically circumvents the sterile reductionism that some other prominent perfumers have stumbled on in their pursuit of lean “modernity.”

Lumière Noire provides yet another example of Kurkdjian in his historicizing mode. It opens as a potent, spicy, animalic fougère that harks right back in style to Azzaro pour Homme, Jules, and Lauder for Men. As with some of Kurkdjian’s other recent successful scents, (I’m thinking particularly Enlévement aus Sérail,) Lumière Noire undergoes a chameleonic development with several distinct and interesting stages.

As the heavier aromatic and animalic notes retreat partway, Lumière Noire appears to skip forward two or three decades in style, into a spiced orange and nutty, creamy musk arrangement reminiscent of Kenzo’s Ça Scent Beau, only considerably darker and more weighty. The spiced orange fougère accord is next joined by a dark, winey rose note, which lends the composition an even more serious and pensive demeanor. Lumière Noire’s rose does not shoulder its way so far forward as those in Amouage Lyric Man, Czech & Speake No. 88, or their Edwardian predecessor Hammam Bouquet. Instead it remains tightly integrated, yet distinctly discernable, within the root fougère architecture.

While it doesn’t fall neatly into the “masculine” rose tradition, I do find something very familiar in Lumière Noire’s overall shape and mood. In fact, the warm, heavy musk, the sweet spices, and the prominent floral accord in a dark fougère context have parallels in Caron’s Third Man. Enough so that Lumière Noire could pass as Third Man’s younger, slightly slimmer cousin, with rose assuming the dominant floral role played by lavender in the older scent. The drydown sets the waning animalic musk against mild patchouli and a woody note with a very dry, sawdust texture. It’s not Lumière Noire’s most distinctive or prepossessing stage, but with so much of interest preceding it, I’m not going to complain.
19th June, 2014
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A lyrical yet lush/chic take on spicy rose. LNPH performs by soon like a modern spicy/musky (sparkling and aromatic) fougere with at same time a romantic/rosey and an extra fancy urban appeal. Muskiness, a lot of refined and modern muskiness with a romantic soul. It opens with a marvellously spicy/green/citrusy (slightly orangy and exotic) blast conjuring me more than vaguely the mythical Vintage Romeo Gigli by Romeo Gigli Pour Homme but in a more modern (cleaner) way and with a less herbal initial approach. I detect indeed by soon an equally definite sweetly spicy vibe but a less stout watery/aromatic temperament (which is anyway polished from the slightly barber-shop citrus-lavender Gigli's feel). In a while I detect a mastering rose/patchouli supported by cinnamon, nutmeg, probably hints of cumin overall on a dominant musky/ambery base. Probably minimal hints of civet, opoponax, edible balsams and tobacco take part to the olfactory orchestra (finally slightly powdery, semi-oriental ambery, lipstick and vaguely soapy/vanillic) and all of it conjures me an ideal blend of Gigli, the classic Vanderbilt by Gloria Vanderbilt and (at the beginning) Lancetti IL (another disappeared ghost). Well, despite I like this fragrance for its delicate and balanced final rosey subtleness and despite being this sweet/musky mélange a nice rose/patchouli with a modern label I can't say to be fully satisfied. Over a really promising first and second stage the final aroma seems me vaguely "cosmetical" with its sort of Labello's waxy undertone not compromising complexity but just veiling a real level of realistic refinement. In this phase I see the connection with the recent Kurkdjian's performances for Narciso Rodriguez (for her). Probably I had huge expectations about or probably I was expecting something more sensual and bold. Anyway, conceptually a poetic/lyric aroma well appointed and suave with an extremely light balmy "pink" trail.
04th April, 2014 (last edited: 01st March, 2016)
It took me awhile to find a masculine rose that I really enjoy, but here it is: Lumiere Noire Pour Homme.

Most rose fragrances wear too powdery and feminine for my taste (Lyric Man, Baie Rose 26). The ones that are masculine enough (Rose 31) are simply boring and lacking in the Rose intensity; not the mention the hoard of Rose-Aoud combos which are tiresome.

Lumiere Noire manages to have a prominent Rose note, but together with the Patchouli and cinnamin, comes across as completely unisex if not leaning masculine. The spiciness in this one is significantly more biting and entertaining than that in Rose 31. The "biting" top does calm down after awhile and the fragrance continues to improve throughout its scentlife.

Performance is off the charts, both with projection and longevity.

The floral genre will never be my favorite but this one stands out as an exception.

18th March, 2014
FISS80 Show all reviews
United States
Simple yet sexy. Opens up as a very earthy and spicy rose. Patchouli and cinnamon heavy with a watery, spicy rose. I imagine not a rose per say, but more of a rose petal sitting on top of water with sweetened soil in a jar. Constructed as EDT strength and performs as such on my skin. Perfect for a walk in the park, with a loved one, on a cool spring day, whether the sun is present or not.
10th March, 2014
I think Kurkdjian is a much talented nose who does not want (or need, or has the chance) to use all his talent. His scents (well, some of) smell great, but not as great as they could if they were just, say, more "free" to express their potential. Lumière Noire is a perfect example of this in my opinion. The opening is great, a complex but splendid blend of rose, citrus notes (bergamot or neroli, I guess), dark woods, spices (cinnamon, cloves, saffron, cumin?), vanilla, an earthy-green crunchy note of patchouli and a dusty feel of tobacco leaves. Fresh and dark, dense and sticky, with a small but dense animalic heart crawling underneath. Also much powerful, with an incredible balance. It's all great, but at the same time, also much restrained and controlled: no roughness, no flaws, no imperfections, all is perfect and ready to be obediently worn by almost anyone. The animalic note is there, but the animal is trained and on a leash. Sensual, elegant and dark enough to be distinctive, yet clean and refined to be safe and wearable. In a word: censored. I think an "uncensored" version of this would smell just awesome. For the moment it's only a "very good".

08th January, 2014 (last edited: 30th April, 2014)
A perfect play between Dark and Light...

Starts out with a clean, soapy, delicate rose, then descends into earthy fougère territory (courtesy of the dark patchouli accord). Like something which can be savage and delicate at the same time. A rose fougère if ever there was one!

Incredibly nice, and proof that Francis Kurkdjian is an incredibly talented man!

Simple, delicate and brilliant.
21st November, 2013
Lumiere noir PH gave the entirely welcome first impression of something quite out of its time, belonging to the gutsier classics of an age when perfume was unabashedly perfumey, certain loved notes hadn’t been ‘recommended’ out of existence and there was less of a need for a yappy top to sell product.
All that being said, do not expect a heavy, cloying creation – its trail is polite not overbearing. And there’s nothing wrong with Lumiere Noir’s top either – it just doesn’t yap.
What it does have is an air of formality, a confidence in its own exceptionality that doesn’t require tricksiness. And yet it is a perfume for everybody, definitely not just for chin-strokers going ‘hmmm’ – it’s the light, sure touch that makes it so.
To mention the rose-patchouli combination is almost banal, so transformed into something greater and gauzier are these elements. Those who think they can’t stand either, may be pleasantly surprised. Indeed, it gives a cumin hater like myself not the slightest bother, even though the note is clearly present. It’s this introduction of familiar notes in a manner that seems renewed and a little strange that is perhaps its secret.
The key to this creation seems to be the artemesia, herbal, with a bitter aftertaste, creating the kind of asymmetry that is essential to artistic success. Along with the meaty aspect of patchouli, it brings musty, skin-like associations, giving Lumiere Noir a touch of the corporeal and making the end result something that merges with and emanates gloriously from the wearer’s person. The more one wears it, the greater the love.
Crying out to be released in a stronger concentration.
11th November, 2013
romantic poet

I forgot I had a sample of this, but when I discovered this I was enraptured. It's a gorgeous uplifting rose...and I have been on a rose quest for years now. A smite of patchouli opens it and anchors it down..and then there is an overlay of fresh dewiness..of petals or warm clean skin. A very human rose.

I don't really know how this would play on a man's skin..but I'd certainly be interested in that figure. This evokes a poet type...waves and curls in his hair, billowy white get the idea.....the scent is somehow pure and complex. I'm very besotted with this one.

Sorry just read the tiny font..this IS FEMME

Pros: beautiful rose, light muskiness

25th August, 2013
This takes more time, and it is great

I am one who tries had to not buy into traditional gender roles, norms and expectations (I teach masculinities studies, for god sake!). However, this one smells to me very feminine. It is not that it is a rose scent, it is that it feels like a rose scent that I imagine on a 16 year old girl; floral cotton candy rose instead of a deep, seductive rose (i.e. Noir de Noir). It is a lovely sent, but I don't see myself as wearing anything lovely. Were I smelling this on a women and not myself, I might find it sexy.


What a bad review I gave above! This is a wonderful scent, and becomes far more complex and sensual on the drydown. I will keep the review above to remind me of how bad I am at this, lol. More details on a subsequent wearing, but just wonderful.

24th August, 2013
A fluorescent candy store

A very sweet rose and patchouli scent with a little bit of everything from the spice cabinet thrown in, most prominently a hearty dose of cinnamon, cumin, and a few herb twigs, as well. I find it really sugary and soda-sparkling, but what appears at first to be an artful, unjustifiably sinister baudelairesque name ("black light") soon turns out quite fitting, after all: Lumière Noire transports us to some sort of dark psychedelic candy store where displays of rosy cotton candy, vanilla-flavored fizzy drinks, and brightly colored sticky candies lie eerily illuminated in ultraviolet light, flourescing weirdly and dreamily in exaggerated phosphorous pastels. Soon, however, a resolute patchouli-centered base shows up to partly dispel the candy store vibe, seemingly trying (in my opinion, unsuccessfully) to pull Lumière Noire towards a safer and classier place for itself before it’s all over. While I recognize the quality and conceptual originality in this fragrance, I cannot muster very much genuine enthusiasm for Lumière Noire. I find it far over the top and, as it were, insufficiently illuminating in all its rosewater-sprinkled spicy-sweet artfulness.

21st August, 2013
Tart & Tantilizing!

Lumiere Noire is a fantastic fragrance! Initially, based upon its ingredients (I am typically not a fan of Rose or Patchouli), I wrongfully assumed it would be precious and common. But this isn't Rose or Patchouli of the every day, underwhelming, overbearing sort. It's simultaneously refined and refreshing, startling and comforting, luxurious and approachable. There's a whole lot going on, yet it's very simple. I find that this scent is suitable for nearly every occasion and any instance, but perhaps that's just me... As much as I love Maison Francis Kurkdjian's Oud and Absolute Pour Le Soir, this one is a real contender.

Pros: Distinct
Cons: Expensive"

10th July, 2013
If you want a cheaper version of this then go for Rebel by Joe Bloggs. Smells exactly the same and costs only a fraction of LN - £3.00 to be exact.
07th May, 2013
blueyezz Show all reviews
United Kingdom
Beautiful - really beautiful. But there in lies in problem. Rather like a too good looking person, there is nothing to catch my interest, no sharp angles or imperfections.

Its the polar opposite of wabi sabi, too perfect, inhuman, and I could never imagine a circumstance where it would be appropriate for me to wear it. I feel it was not made for someone like me. Better suited to the hero of a Barbara Cartland novel.

It has two of my favourite notes - rose and cumin. They are blended so well its hard to work out where the rose ends and the cumin begins.

I prefer my fragrances to grunt and sweat just a little, have some angles and edges.

I can understand why people love it though.

I'll stick to Une Rose for rose and Eau d'Hermes for cumin.
06th May, 2013
Had high hopes but what a let down. It definitely isn't for a man. Most certainly a woman's fragrance.
30th April, 2013
Rich, potent, dark/dusky/dusty rose. After few hours on a strip is now a little big, boozy and perfumey and has turned into a bit of a bridge playing, fox fur wearing 'grand-dame'. Great smell, no doubt well made, however can't imagine wearing it myself (although it's certainly got more kick than the femme) and really can't ever imagine finding it appealing on a man.
12th April, 2013
Lumiere Noire is one of those few fragrances that will take you to heaven at first whiff, believe me when I say that incredible isn't enough especially with the rose in here, what a fantastic scent, what an unbelievable perfume.

The notes are blended perfectly and the rose takes center stage to make this fragrance one of the most romantic fragrances I've come across. You can smell the wonderful spices from the cinnamon and caraway on the back giving depth and edge to the rose while the patch is giving strength and backbone to the fragrance but, the most interesting note is the artemisia which could do it for you or could break the deal for you, it gives the fragrance a creamy “repellent” vibe if you look for it but you might as well don't bother, cause you WILL adore this fragrance.

The only thing I keep thinking is that this would be unbelievable if it was a little bit richer and with more body to it so I'm really hoping that Francis Kurkdjian decides to release an EdP for Lumiere Pour Homme, the Toilette works well (in fact it may be one the very best EdT out there along with Chanel's Les Exclusifs), but the EdP would be mind blowing.

Lumiere Noire is the aroma of the streets of Paris, the city of love and lights, the aroma of a gentleman waiting to find love, this fragrance screams passion, screams love story. There are several fragrances on the market that try to be sexy, this one is and probably the best at it.
15th February, 2013
The most wearable men's rose I have come across thus far. Still on the fence as to if it would be something I would wear. It is blended very well nothing but quality.
21st January, 2013
Very beautiful rose fragrance. It does become a bit powdery but that is the best part. I can't believe I'm saying this but this kills Rose 31 IMO. Very sexy...5 out of 5 stars for sure!
03rd January, 2013