Lumière Noire pour Homme is absolutely sophisticated and elegant. It is a gentle rose with a hint of patchouli and spices. It is very lyrical, poetic and just gets better as the day progresses. It lasts a very long time on me. I cannot stop smelling myself.
The name means "Black Light" and sure enough, this beautiful composition is based on a range of dark and light elements, each playing off each other to create a chiaroscuro effect. The bracing fougere opening of lavender and bergamot lays down a brackish bed for the liquor-like pink rose that unfolds next; the creamy orange-inflected musk in the dry-down is brought into sharp focus by the bitter green artemsia; the shy patchouli given texture by the dusty cumin and cinnamon.
It's ultra refined, with no sharp edges anywhere, and sits light years away from brutish, bullying rose-patchouli scents such as Portrait of a Lady, Black Aoud, and the like. For some, that refinement may be a drawback, but I think there is room enough in the genre for a rose-patchouli fragrance that doesn't necessarily hit you over the head with its boldness or roughness.
Indeed, I see enormous appeal in this scent's quiet sensuality and subtle light-dark effects. For me, it is, like its female equivalent, the perfect embodiment of a dark rose suitable for the daylight hours. It is slightly formal in the first half of its life, but later on, a smidgen of sexuality creeps in on the back of the creamy musk and hints of cumin. It's kind of like the white shirt of an architect which starts out starched and pristine and buttoned all the way to the top but that by the end of the day carries some man musk around the collar and is buttoned down a bit to reveal a hint of chest hair. Comfortably masculine, but refined and silky, and knows how to say quite a lot without shouting across the room at you.
By the way, I find the dry down to be eerily close to the Narciso Rodriguez Musc for Her, but this is more masculine in character and heavier on the spices and orange. In summary, a beautiful rose/orange pomander/musk fragrance that is about 1000% more refined and quiet in character than your run-of-the-mill rose and patchouli fragrances out there. Two very big thumbs up!
Francis Kurkdjian has a penchant for high quality re-imaginings of historical classics: witness Enlévement au Sérail, Promesse de l’Aube, and even Narciso Rodriguez for Her, which seem respectively to channel Mitsouko, Chant d’Aròmes, and Bois des Îles through a contemporary olfactory sensibility. In each of these cases Kurkdjian avoids pastiche by streamlining olfactory contours and sharpening contrasts between accords to reveal underlying structural details. It’s a kind of olfactory liposuction, but one that magically circumvents the sterile reductionism that some other prominent perfumers have stumbled on in their pursuit of lean “modernity.”
Lumière Noire provides yet another example of Kurkdjian in his historicizing mode. It opens as a potent, spicy, animalic fougère that harks right back in style to Azzaro pour Homme, Jules, and Lauder for Men. As with some of Kurkdjian’s other recent successful scents, (I’m thinking particularly Enlévement aus Sérail,) Lumière Noire undergoes a chameleonic development with several distinct and interesting stages.
As the heavier aromatic and animalic notes retreat partway, Lumière Noire appears to skip forward two or three decades in style, into a spiced orange and nutty, creamy musk arrangement reminiscent of Kenzo’s Ça Scent Beau, only considerably darker and more weighty. The spiced orange fougère accord is next joined by a dark, winey rose note, which lends the composition an even more serious and pensive demeanor. Lumière Noire’s rose does not shoulder its way so far forward as those in Amouage Lyric Man, Czech & Speake No. 88, or their Edwardian predecessor Hammam Bouquet. Instead it remains tightly integrated, yet distinctly discernable, within the root fougère architecture.
While it doesn’t fall neatly into the “masculine” rose tradition, I do find something very familiar in Lumière Noire’s overall shape and mood. In fact, the warm, heavy musk, the sweet spices, and the prominent floral accord in a dark fougère context have parallels in Caron’s Third Man. Enough so that Lumière Noire could pass as Third Man’s younger, slightly slimmer cousin, with rose assuming the dominant floral role played by lavender in the older scent. The drydown sets the waning animalic musk against mild patchouli and a woody note with a very dry, sawdust texture. It’s not Lumière Noire’s most distinctive or prepossessing stage, but with so much of interest preceding it, I’m not going to complain.
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LNPH performs by soon like a modern spicy/musky (sparkling and aromatic) fougere with at once a romantic/rosey and an extra fancy urban appeal. It opens with a marvellously spicy/green/citrusy (slightly orangy and exotic) blast conjuring me more than vaguely the mythical Vintage Romeo Gigli by Romeo Gigli Pour Homme but in a more modern way and with a less herbal initial approach. I detect indeed by soon an equally definite sweetly spicy vibe but a less stout watery/aromatic temperament (which is anyway polished from the slightly barber-shop citrus-lavender Gigli's feel). In a while I detect a mastering rose/patchouli supported by cinnamon, nutmeg, probably hints of cumin all over a dominant musky/ambery base. Probably minimal hints of civet, opoponax, edible balsams and tobacco take part to the olfactory orchestra (finally slightly powdery, semi-oriental ambery, lipstick and vaguely soapy/vanillic) and all of it conjures me an ideal blend of Gigli, the classic Vanderbilt by Gloria Vanderbilt and (at the beginning) Lancetti IL (another disappeared ghost). Well, despite I like this fragrance for its delicate and balanced final rosey subtleness and despite being this sweet/musky mélange a nice rose/patchouli with a modern label I can't say to be fully satisfied. Over a really promising first and second stage the final aroma seems to me vaguely "cosmetical" with its sort of Labello's undertone compromising complexity and a real level of realistic refinement. Probably I had huge expectations about or probably I was expecting something more sensual and bold. Anyway, conceptually a poetic/lyric aroma well appointed and suave with an extremely light balmy "pink" trail.
04th April, 2014 (last edited: 13th October, 2014)
It took me awhile to find a masculine rose that I really enjoy, but here it is: Lumiere Noire Pour Homme.
Most rose fragrances wear too powdery and feminine for my taste (Lyric Man, Baie Rose 26). The ones that are masculine enough (Rose 31) are simply boring and lacking in the Rose intensity; not the mention the hoard of Rose-Aoud combos which are tiresome.
Lumiere Noire manages to have a prominent Rose note, but together with the Patchouli and cinnamin, comes across as completely unisex if not leaning masculine. The spiciness in this one is significantly more biting and entertaining than that in Rose 31. The "biting" top does calm down after awhile and the fragrance continues to improve throughout its scentlife.
Performance is off the charts, both with projection and longevity.
The floral genre will never be my favorite but this one stands out as an exception.
Simple yet sexy. Opens up as a very earthy and spicy rose. Patchouli and cinnamon heavy with a watery, spicy rose. I imagine not a rose per say, but more of a rose petal sitting on top of water with sweetened soil in a jar. Constructed as EDT strength and performs as such on my skin. Perfect for a walk in the park, with a loved one, on a cool spring day, whether the sun is present or not.
I think Kurkdjian is a much talented nose who does not want (or need, or has the chance) to use all his talent. His scents (well, some of) smell great, but not as great as they could if they were just, say, more "free" to express their potential. Lumière Noire is a perfect example of this in my opinion. The opening is great, a complex but splendid blend of rose, citrus notes (bergamot or neroli, I guess), dark woods, spices (cinnamon, cloves, saffron, cumin?), vanilla, an earthy-green crunchy note of patchouli and a dusty feel of tobacco leaves. Fresh and dark, dense and sticky, with a small but dense animalic heart crawling underneath. Also much powerful, with an incredible balance. It's all great, but at the same time, also much restrained and controlled: no roughness, no flaws, no imperfections, all is perfect and ready to be obediently worn by almost anyone. The animalic note is there, but the animal is trained and on a leash. Sensual, elegant and dark enough to be distinctive, yet clean and refined to be safe and wearable. In a word: censored. I think an "uncensored" version of this would smell just awesome. For the moment it's only a "very good".
08th January, 2014 (last edited: 30th April, 2014)
A perfect play between Dark and Light...
Starts out with a clean, soapy, delicate rose, then descends into earthy fougère territory (courtesy of the dark patchouli accord). Like something which can be savage and delicate at the same time. A rose fougère if ever there was one!
Incredibly nice, and proof that Francis Kurkdjian is an incredibly talented man!
Simple, delicate and brilliant.
Lumiere noir PH gave the entirely welcome first impression of something quite out of its time, belonging to the gutsier classics of an age when perfume was unabashedly perfumey, certain loved notes hadn’t been ‘recommended’ out of existence and there was less of a need for a yappy top to sell product.
All that being said, do not expect a heavy, cloying creation – its trail is polite not overbearing. And there’s nothing wrong with Lumiere Noir’s top either – it just doesn’t yap.
What it does have is an air of formality, a confidence in its own exceptionality that doesn’t require tricksiness. And yet it is a perfume for everybody, definitely not just for chin-strokers going ‘hmmm’ – it’s the light, sure touch that makes it so.
To mention the rose-patchouli combination is almost banal, so transformed into something greater and gauzier are these elements. Those who think they can’t stand either, may be pleasantly surprised. Indeed, it gives a cumin hater like myself not the slightest bother, even though the note is clearly present. It’s this introduction of familiar notes in a manner that seems renewed and a little strange that is perhaps its secret.
The key to this creation seems to be the artemesia, herbal, with a bitter aftertaste, creating the kind of asymmetry that is essential to artistic success. Along with the meaty aspect of patchouli, it brings musty, skin-like associations, giving Lumiere Noir a touch of the corporeal and making the end result something that merges with and emanates gloriously from the wearer’s person. The more one wears it, the greater the love.
Crying out to be released in a stronger concentration.
I forgot I had a sample of this, but when I discovered this I was enraptured. It's a gorgeous uplifting rose...and I have been on a rose quest for years now. A smite of patchouli opens it and anchors it down..and then there is an overlay of fresh dewiness..of petals or warm clean skin. A very human rose.
I don't really know how this would play on a man's skin..but I'd certainly be interested in that figure. This evokes a poet type...waves and curls in his hair, billowy white shirt..you get the idea.....the scent is somehow pure and complex. I'm very besotted with this one.
Sorry just read the tiny font..this IS FEMME
Pros: beautiful rose, light muskiness
This takes more time, and it is great
I am one who tries had to not buy into traditional gender roles, norms and expectations (I teach masculinities studies, for god sake!). However, this one smells to me very feminine. It is not that it is a rose scent, it is that it feels like a rose scent that I imagine on a 16 year old girl; floral cotton candy rose instead of a deep, seductive rose (i.e. Noir de Noir). It is a lovely sent, but I don't see myself as wearing anything lovely. Were I smelling this on a women and not myself, I might find it sexy.
What a bad review I gave above! This is a wonderful scent, and becomes far more complex and sensual on the drydown. I will keep the review above to remind me of how bad I am at this, lol. More details on a subsequent wearing, but just wonderful.
Tart & Tantilizing!
Lumiere Noire is a fantastic fragrance! Initially, based upon its ingredients (I am typically not a fan of Rose or Patchouli), I wrongfully assumed it would be precious and common. But this isn't Rose or Patchouli of the every day, underwhelming, overbearing sort. It's simultaneously refined and refreshing, startling and comforting, luxurious and approachable. There's a whole lot going on, yet it's very simple. I find that this scent is suitable for nearly every occasion and any instance, but perhaps that's just me... As much as I love Maison Francis Kurkdjian's Oud and Absolute Pour Le Soir, this one is a real contender.
Rich, potent, dark/dusky/dusty rose. After few hours on a strip is now a little big, boozy and perfumey and has turned into a bit of a bridge playing, fox fur wearing 'grand-dame'. Great smell, no doubt well made, however can't imagine wearing it myself (although it's certainly got more kick than the femme) and really can't ever imagine finding it appealing on a man.
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Lumiere Noire is one of those few fragrances that will take you to heaven at first whiff, believe me when I say that incredible isn't enough especially with the rose in here, what a fantastic scent, what an unbelievable perfume.
The notes are blended perfectly and the rose takes center stage to make this fragrance one of the most romantic fragrances I've come across. You can smell the wonderful spices from the cinnamon and caraway on the back giving depth and edge to the rose while the patch is giving strength and backbone to the fragrance but, the most interesting note is the artemisia which could do it for you or could break the deal for you, it gives the fragrance a creamy “repellent” vibe if you look for it but you might as well don't bother, cause you WILL adore this fragrance.
The only thing I keep thinking is that this would be unbelievable if it was a little bit richer and with more body to it so I'm really hoping that Francis Kurkdjian decides to release an EdP for Lumiere Pour Homme, the Toilette works well (in fact it may be one the very best EdT out there along with Chanel's Les Exclusifs), but the EdP would be mind blowing.
Lumiere Noire is the aroma of the streets of Paris, the city of love and lights, the aroma of a gentleman waiting to find love, this fragrance screams passion, screams love story. There are several fragrances on the market that try to be sexy, this one is and probably the best at it.
The most wearable men's rose I have come across thus far. Still on the fence as to if it would be something I would wear. It is blended very well nothing but quality.
Very beautiful rose fragrance. It does become a bit powdery but that is the best part. I can't believe I'm saying this but this kills Rose 31 IMO. Very sexy...5 out of 5 stars for sure!
I like the smell of this fragrance, and the notes are what are described earlier. My problem is that it is very week on my skin in this hot/humid tropical climate so I can hardly smell it at all. Too subtle for me.
Update: I have used it for a longer period of time - obviously more sprays are needed, at least 6 - 7.. It is still a bit weak and quiet. A well blended floral, though rather inconspicuous. The flowers are blended so well that no one in particular stands out.
07th December, 2012 (last edited: 01st May, 2013)
I received sample for this in April/May (cant remember exactly)
That time, I do not love it. Maybe I was really busy doing my work that day and did not appreciate the smell enough. I kept the sample until last early this month, I was intrigue to try it again.
This smells great. Believe in me, when you use it more and more, it builds a connection of love. I adore this and on my to buy list definitely
This fragrance is one I love for a few reasons. One, its very subtle which means you're not gonna offend anyone. Another is its crisp n clean, no annoying, cloying notes here. Simply elegant for someone who wants to make a statement without making noise. The only knock on this is that it smells A LOT like desire by dunhill for over $100 more. Other than that, all smiles here
Ill probably never buy another fragrance like this, but will always have a bottle of this!
Its fresh-warm-just a little sticky, but it doesnt get cloying love the patchouli+rose+cumin, which i really like for this type of scent, well blended by the house of MFK, my next purchase will be Cologne Soir from MFK!
Puts Voleur de Roses (yucks) and most patchouli+rose combination to shame,except for
Yosh's Sombre Negra which is just divine.
An extremely classy and well-balanced perfume. it's got a feminine heart but it works for me. this is so not a t-shirt cologne - this cologne makes you want to dress better and think better, perhaps take up race-car driving or castle-collecting. they really did a marvelous job of blending the rose with the underlying patchouli and spice. a completely successful fragrance - and not too loud, either, it just gently becomes part of the flow of air around you.
A beautiful elegant fragrance by Francis Kurkdjian.
The interplay between the rose and spice, the balance of sweetness together with a very faint and slightly animalic quality. I do not feel as though I'm wearing a directly "Rose" fragrance, the Patchouli, Cinnamon and Cumin brings out something very original among other offerings out there. It shines without being overly sweet, to me it's a perfect balance.
this is one of my favorite scents. first of all, it's the best masculine rose i've ever gotten my nose on. yes le labo rose 31 is very good, but it aint got notta on this! it starts out like a fresh rose almost clean like a steamed shower. then after an hour or so the best part begins! the cumin and cinnamon come in sand the rose becomes fresh but somewhat creamy. almost a gourmand rose scent. love this love this love this
projection stays a little closer to the skin
i get around eight hours longevity
Excellent fragrance by Francis Kurkdjian,really fantastic.Very nice balance for all time using,it is so elegant and masculen,also very impressive.Very good longevity for lumiere noire...10/10 rating...
Beautiful scent. I went into this one with very low expectations due to my utter disappointment with APOM pour Homme... I will have to reevaluate my expectations with MFK after this one...
Rose and patchouli, mix with a decent spicy dose of cinnamon and nutmeg to my nose (this could possibly be the cumin, which for once did not bother me at all). This blends perfectly later-on with a nice soapy, classy base that has a bit of amber and musk in it. It works quite well. Projection is average, with superb longevity. This masterpiece is an absolute winner and definitely full bottle worthy. 4.5 stars out of 5.
14th January, 2012 (last edited: 26th December, 2012)
Lumiere Noire pour Homme by Maison Francis Kurkdjian - One is initially treated to a debonair rose; the mildly sweet fragrance of which is somewhat stunted by the infused anise and nuttiness from the accompanying cumin. This exotic opening flows effortlessly to the heart, where a warm and toothsome cinnamon as well as an earthy and slightly dark patchouli nicely dust the rose with their inviting accessions. Arriving at its waiting base, a bitter and faintly disinfecting artemsia showers the rose, and specks of agreeable narcissus flitter about as its meanders to its enjoyable drydown. A prized gem in one's repertoire, this gorgeous composition, with its fresh and spicy overtures and concomitant sensuousness, has average projection and very good longevity.
Not since Amouage's Homage Attar have I been blown away and my nose been taken back to fragrance school in what some creative perfumers can create. But Francis Kurkdjian has made some thing special with this one.
This was a wild blind buy for me and I was expecting a heavy rose/patchouli fragrance and instead it was the total opposite.
I sprayed a shot to my neck and wrist and got this beautiful very very light ethereal rose fragrance mixed in with something sensual. It is not like you are smelling a rose up close but smelling a beautiful rose mixed in with something sexy on the breeze.
After a while it develops this wonderful white muskyness that smells beautiful on your skin. It's like the creator has captured the feeling of been in love and bottled it as that is what it makes you feel. It's amazing to me that the whole composition is done with a light touch as it is very airy and as I said its like your smelling something beautiful on the breeze.
The fragrance is unisex to my nose though there is this light sensuality to it that slightly pushes it towards the masculine side of the border.
I am going to have to check out the other fragrances by Francis Kurkdjian as this one is a very beautiful sexy fragrance for a man to wear. Wonderful.
Lumiere is very reminiscent of Narciso Rodriguez's Musc , but this one is for men and much better. It has this incredibly sexy boozy rose note , which is just intoxicating. A very romantic fragrance , one which evokes emotions of being in love. The patchouli grounds the rose and gives it an animalic masculine feel. A gem in the world of perfumery!
I'm often skeptic about things people talk too much about and lately I've heard / read many words on the latest project by the young talented Francis Kurkdjian that I decided to momentairely re-direct my curiosity to other perfume houses and face Mr.FK's own line creations in a second time in order not to be influenced by the huge marketing campaign surrounding this launch. Then I went to Berlin where in a big department store they were promoting the whole Maison Francis Kurkdjian range by giving away discovery sets made of four vials at your choice. I had Acqua Universalis, APOM pour Homme, Cologne pour le Soir and Lumiere Noir pour Homme.
I found Acqua Universalis beeing quite inconsistent. One of those perumes that perfectly fits the concept "fragrances for people who don't like them". Then I moved to Lumiere Noir and I got positively surprised. This is the Francis Kurkdjian we're used to. A super-modern and very complex reinterpretation of the spicy fougere. Potent, rich and superbly orchestrated. In the whole fragrance I get a rose note that is always evident but never overwhelming as it's perfectly setted to react with others ingredients. A big dose of animalic-musk, spices, orange and patchouli. Lumiere Noir smells potent, dusty, dark, sweet, rich, mysterious and tremendously elegant. One of the few rose-scents that I really love.
Let’s go in reverse, because I’d like to end on a positive note. Lumière Noire pour Homme winds up a tidy, sweet musky rose. If you like it, you’ll recognize that it comes from thoughtfully designed succinctness. If you don’t, it’s a bit matter-of-fact. I won’t say that this fragrance loses steam or loses track, but it loses me. To Francis Kurkdjian’s credit, the ride from the beginning to the end is wonderfully designed, and like a well worded short sentence. One idea, clearly stated, perfectly understood. It’s just that everything I love about this fragrance is up front and fades by the quick-to-arrive drydown.
But, oh, that beginning. There are countless patchouli roses out there. This ain’t like any of them. The rose smells like wine, the patchouli smells mineral, and the cumin smells like cumin. This cumin is not a replacement for animal-based ingredients. Not that pouty-growl, wanna-be animalic cumin. It smells like freshly ground roasted seeds and perfectly inflects the rose/patchouli pairing. The three pieces together feel like hot, dusty sandpaper, and smell like temptation. I smell this opening and think, this could be a solution to the chypre/oakmoss dilemma that’s haunting us. This accord is that good.
I just wish I could run LNpH in reverse. But unfulfilled expectation is classic disappointment.
To hell with my disappointment. Thumbs up for that opening accord.
26th February, 2011 (last edited: 07th May, 2011)