Perfume Reviews

Reviews of (Untitled) by Martin Margiela

Total Reviews: 18
Untitled threw me for a loop. I was fully ready to receive it as I would an avant garde Jolie laide, striking but unlikable, with a beauty mark that becomes an eyesore in the odd ungenerous light. That this hypothetical itself served as tribute to my own sense of vanity and faux eccentricity only became apparent to me when I finally gave the real scent a proper go-around, met her in the flesh, as it were.

Untitled is innovative and unusual. It is not edgy or provocative, but rather a lovely, forward-thinking entry into what precisely a modern, self-aware (i.e. classically informed) green scent could be. The galbanum is bracing and eye-popping, like a fistful of pollen. (See No. 19, Silences) Its edge is carefully drawn out by the bitter orange, itself daintily folded into the ylang-jasmine heart of the perfume. Just when one could rightly accuse Untitled of being a turncoat two-face, of trading its snappy opening for the inanition of sweet pleasantries, the finale recalls the biting start, modulated in the form of different ingredients. Cedar takes over the whistling high-note, with incense and a freakish amount of white musk rounding out the base. (14% serenolide!)

Whenever I wear it now, I can pick up all these various phases at once, and they peek out in turn throughout the day. The deceit in the branding and concept here is a happy one: where I expected a lifeless minimalist composition, a modern paean to the elemental void, I instead received a deft, fae love-letter to the pulse of life on the green, under the sun, and in the shade.

A mischievous youngling, wise changeling. Otherworldly.
07th March, 2017 (last edited: 18th March, 2017)
A wonderful bitter-sweet green...

This fragrance is like a reminder of the great chypre fragrances of the past, like Chanel Cristalle however this one is more adventurous and goes in new directions. But it is first and foremost a green fragrance with a bite!

(untitled) opens up with bitter green galbanum, which, combined with the bitter orange and incense, gives the whole fragrance a very "bitter" vibe. This trio of "bitterness" combines with woody-green boxwood and dry cedar to add to the "greenness" of the scent, followed by white musk and a wonderful jasmine note which finally gives the fragrance extra depth and stops it being to bitter. Over time the galbanum gets sweeter, and the jasmine, orange blossom and musk contribute to this, but it stays sharp for a long time before calming down.

I enjoy this because sometimes I'm in the mood for a very bitter type of green fragrance. This does the job for me. Perfect for spring in my opinion, and while this isn't my favourite green fragrance, it's certainly the most green out of everything I've tried. If you are a nature or "green" lover, you should give this one a try.
02nd June, 2016 (last edited: 01st June, 2016)
Bitter-sweet, floral, creamy and so green and vegetal that is almost off-putting; very potent at first and within an hour it settles to a sweet woody aromatic scent that sits close to the skin. Not much of a fan, but it's quite original and interesting.
05th May, 2016
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I like this fragrance - it is easygoing, can be worn anywhere, has casual charm, and subtle sophistication. Everyone talks about the green, green, green, and I see it in the list - galbanum, the big, bitter dense green, the greenest of all greens. But something different is happening on my skin, which for me becomes its success. The galbanum is completely modulated into a new note from the beginning of the fragrance. And it never separates out into galbanum. I love galbanum but it can be kind of a solo act because it has a strong presence in spite of who else is at the party.
I'm intrigued by fragrances that create new notes from the familiar ones. It feels like artistry to me. I get a little tired of all the Vetivers, as wonderful as they are, the Ouds, the Roses (yes, patchouli rose, though I love it) - all wonderful, all trying to put a new spin on a familiar theme. It starts feeling like a crowded party. But ones which create a new fragrance entirely - they're more rare. For whatever reason, Untitled is doing that on my skin and I appreciate it.
The opening is an ambrette green on me, which is so juxtapositional as to destroy both notes, which creates a 'new' note I can't define, which became the signature note of Untitled. This fragrance, on my skin, is mostly about the matter/antimatter collision of these two, with a quiet backdrop of notes, which waft in and out of sensuality with a light musk, cedar, incense accord. Subtly of course. Nothing is spelled out in this fragrance. Nothing is pinned into place. Its subtlety is without sacrifice of complexity. And it is unique.
03rd April, 2015 (last edited: 19th April, 2015)
Untitled opens with a synthetic accord of crunchy, bitter and quite realistic green notes surrounded by a slightly sweet and pollen-earthy note of labdanum, then patchouli, cashmeran (that mellow woody feel evoking cedar), aldehydes and white musks. But most of all loads of artificial greenness, gently rounded by a floral-woody creaminess. All clean, sharp and “cold”, although not unpleasant. As minutes pass the initial tart-green blast leaves the stage to floral-woody notes, still keeping it clean and glossy. Shortly, an androgynous, “abstract-clean” contemporary scent following the style of CdG and similar brands, but with a sort of more trendy and crowd-pleasing attitude. Still although not that creative and fairly uninteresting, it’s undoubtedly pleasant to wear: unworthy the search in my opinion, but may be a nice gift for (undemanding) fans of unisex, contemporary, clean green-floral scents.

23rd November, 2014
Oh my God!!!

Daniela Andrier worked magic here!!! It's a wonderful, totaly brutal and surreal green. Simply perfect!!!
IMO, This is the best modern green scent on the market.
It's very agressive, it's marvelous... For sure it's not for anyone!!!
12th June, 2012
Bracing bitter green opening pervaded by a lovely light jasmine. So confident it felt like an instant classic (if that weren't a contradiction in terms), a Grey Flannel for our times. However, the jasmine became heavier having taken on empty sugary calories and the musky bottom only robbed it of its character. If only they'd found a way to keep this one dry.
30th May, 2012
Notes: Galbanum, box green, bigaradier, jasmine, incense, cedar, musk

Untitled by Martin Margiela is an inventive, original modern take on the green chypre. Yes she does open with a bitter blast of green but in short order she departs from the expected trajectory, with the addition of some warm musky incense, orange, jasmine and amber, which lend Untitled much of the allure of a warm cuddly oriental. This is a fragrance that might get your attention, making you think, "who smells so good?", only for you to realize, it's you!
Anyone who likes Chanel No.19, Vent Vert, or Miss Dior might find a new love in Untitled. But also, more interestingly, incense fragrance fans might find an expected match here as well. Give it a proper full wearing before you make up your mind.
30th January, 2012
sasqwer Show all reviews
Czech Republic
This is absolutely fantastic scent. It feels as extension of my soul, gives me the feeling of my own identity- elevated. Rare and sublime. Beautiful.
07th September, 2011
This is a very soft green-floral scent. Refined in a sophisticated way, but it has a very smoky essence. It's as if Kate Middleton was a secret chain smoker.
09th July, 2011
Kaern Show all reviews
United Kingdom
It was being promoted as unisex in House, so not sure of the subsequent categorisation. Really sharp galbanum to open up, about the greenest opening I've experienced -- not my cup of tea though. I waited for a while and all I got in the drydown was a faint hint of orange blossom and some woods. The sales team had some fronds that you could smell, supposedly a realistic rendition of the base notes, but it wasn't what I got off my skin-- I wish it had been as it was very nice. Very green, very dry, but too harsh for me. I'm not really 'neutral' about it, but it isn't a bad scent.
10th May, 2011
Margiela executes branding sharply – no doubt about that. They have managed to package this fragrance in a decent box and bottle that harmonizes excellent with the Margiela brand. A nice collector’s item for anyone interested in the Maison Martin Margiela brand, or just branding and trademarks in general.

The fragrance itself is rather indifferent though: a touch of galbanum with some slightly annoying sweetness in the base.
09th May, 2011
I was expecting so much from Untitled as Martin Margiela is one of my favourite fashion brands of all time. Unfortunately this is just an ok fragrance with a no more than resonable projection and a barely acceptable lasting power. It's an unisex fragrance, even if on my skin it turns to be so gentle and delicate that I can't stand it. Tones of bitter orange and green notes, a bit of incese and that's all I got. It's quite pleasant, actually, but nothing special. Really!
06th March, 2011 (last edited: 04th April, 2011)
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Untitled has a sharp, almost sour green opening which quickly calms down and softens to reveal what smells like discrete orange blossoms and jasmine, along with some musk and warm woods. Low-key, pleasant and clean, bordering on soapy, without getting boring or clinical. Lasts a few short hours as a skin scent.
02nd October, 2010
Definitely a unisex fragrance, and not feminine as listed here in the Directory, (Untitled) is not as interesting as I would have hoped from MMM, although I should have known, considering the recent step-down of Martin Margiela as head of the house he founded. The very fact they're releasing a perfume at all is a step in the wrong direction, in my opinion. Seeking a larger appeal through a more accessible product runs counter to the whole project begun by Martin Margiela, whose hallmarks have always been rigorous material-driven experimentation, serious craftsmanship and a fantastic sense of humor. The fragrance just doesn't quite carry this forward, but they're really striving hard to market it as if it does, except the humor part. Their ad campaign presents it as if it's some kind of chemical miracle. All perfumes rely on chemistry, and they don't need to beat us over the head with it as if it's something brand new. What next, a perfume in a test tube called (ExPeRiMeNt)? That's the kind of heavy-handedness they're resorting to in their ad campaign. MMM has never done that. Always they've insisted that their clothes speak for themselves, and the trompe l'oeil effects they achieve and the curiosity aroused by their very appearance have allowed them to do exactly that. Perhaps with a liquid scent, which cannot rely on visual appeal alone, other tricks are necessary to get the point accross, but I fear they've taken it too far and in the wrong direction.

It's nice, and that's its whole problem. L'Oreal helped them make it. It's a clean, green money-making machine.. It starts very fresh and soapy, but then there's a weird kind of sweet chocolate fruitiness that I found cloying, and then it disappears. Nothing sticks out. It doesn't last at all. For an expensive product, I'd hoped it would have some staying power or something that really distinguished it as new. That's all I'm looking for from them, and them especially: something new. And it's not. There's so many ways they could have played with the whole idea of perfume to create something more interesting, but they chose to play it safe and produce a very slickly marketed and accessible product with mass appeal, branding it with some clichés of minimalism and conceptualism. And frankly, where's the fun in that? As a perfume it's okay, and I'll definitely rotate it as a fresh spring and summer scent, so it gets a neutral rating from me. But as the début fragrance from one of my favorite fashion houses, I have to say I'm disappointed to say the least.

UPDATE: My expectations were simply too high, and I've had time to get to know the fragrance as it is. After several wearings, I've warmed to it. The chocolate accord in the opening is quirky. Chocolate has lots of tannins which have a bitter, astringent quality which lead naturally into the green galbanum heart of the thing. It's an odd take on chocolate, giving a flash of comforting warmth, which instantly switches into herbaceous green high gear. It fades to a wam comforting balsamic drydown. It's actually more complex than I gave it credit for and evokes that particularly French innocent fondness for sweet pâtisserie with a green accord that is actually quite sophisticated, an effect similarly achieved in L'Artisan's Mechant Loup with its hazelnut and woods. Sweet but smart.
01st October, 2010 (last edited: 27th June, 2011)
Despite all, I find this to be a very interesting fragrance. The opening reminds me of Eau de Campagne and the dry down of something else (could it be the scent by Issey?). It doesn't matter; I still think that Untitled is very wearable and pleasant. That it was made under L'Oreal and Diesel is a bit of a put off, and ok this is not haute perfumery; however, it is worth trying.
15th August, 2010
Wonderful sent, green but soft, cool and warm, very rare and special.
I love it
13th August, 2010
I expected to love this, as I'm in a massive green phase at the moment. And yes, the top notes were great - greeeeeen! just as I'd hoped. But then, ew. Suddenly it started to smell like I'd forgotten to wash my hands after going to the loo. Very nasty. I seriously considered scrubbing.

The dry down came back to being a decent green, and was enjoyable again. But the yuckola period made it a definite no-buy for me.
15th June, 2010