So ephemeral it's tough to get a good fix on De Bachmakov. Which is probably why the reviews seem to be all over the place with this one. I detected a faintly figgy note hiding behind a faintly aromatic greenery, before transitioning into talc-like freesia for most of its rather brief lifespan. It's so soft and restrained, you might be better off smelling freshly-shampooed hair or laundered clothes. In other words, INFURIATING.
After an invigorating and realistic bergamot top note, De Bachmakov settles into a transparent, understated arrangement of crisp herbs (especially the shiso in the pyramid) , cedar, citrus and nutmeg that wears very close to the skin. I agree strongly with rickbr’s observation that De Bachmakov smells much like the work of nose Celine Éllena’s celebrated father, Jean-Claude. As common with many of Éllena Père’s compositions, De Bachmakov’s overall contours read like a gloss on his magnificent Déclaration (itself closely allied with Edmond Roudnitska’s Eau d’Hermès).
De Bachmakov’s cedar/citrus axis owes much to Déclaration, but De Bachmakov disposes with Déclaration’s leather and animalic cumin, relying on nutmeg for its spice component and on a clean musk for warmth. The result is very sheer and luminous but without any of the quietly ambiguous animal pungency that enlivens Déclaration and the more successful of its offspring. De Bachmakov winds up feeling comparatively cold and sterile, especially as the citrus and shiso fall away.
The drydown accord of cedar and white musk that remains isn’t just vanishingly faint, but also disappointingly hollow – more like a trace of shampoo or body wash than the late stages of a fully realized fragrance. De Bachmakov’s opening is persuasive, but the composition would have to last much longer and wind up someplace more interesting to make me want to wear it often.
This is a scent in three very distinct phases.
1. Green leaves and a toasted-nut chord. Green fig is fairly prominent. Like the leaf, not sure about the toasted nut.
2. Prolific use of spice. Nutmeg is listed but it smells much more like cinnamon. Not a favorite note in the spice repertoire.
3. A lovely, delicate floral-wood chord. So beautiful, but very restrained and fleeting.
In my opinion only #3 is good, and it is so ephemeral that I can't muster enthusiasm for the scent overall.
De Bachmakov by Different Company - Initially, one is treated to a cool freshness. Bergamot, with its herbaceous bitterness, coriander leaves, with their enveloping greenness tinged with a slightly medicinal and rank undertone, and shiso leaves, with their green apple mintiness, similar to a fresh, cumin-like crispness, all commingle to formulate a somewhat bracing accord. A faint juniper and angelica vibe, with a tinge of terpenic linalool, adds a boozy illusion. This exhilarating opening transitions to the floral heart. Freesia, with its airy sweetness and strawberry-like fruitness, along with jasmine, with its tutti-frutti air, cloak the pronounced greenness of the opening. Magical aldehydes adds a brillance to the florals, and fosters a clean and green undertone to their sweetish sensation. Segueing to the awaiting base, a robust Virginia cedar, with its cedar chest aspect, interplays with a comforting nutmeg, with its cinnamon-like air. An pleasing backdrop of craie douce, with its musk-like softness together with woody and mineral nuances, enhances the warm blend. A comforting drydown ensues. Despite the somewhat innovative and original aspects of this composition, its projection, apart from the opening, and longevity, perhaps 4 hours, are severely lacking, and force my hand with a "Neutral" rating.
I agree with the Redneck Perfumisto's point of view about the existence of a certain resemblance about this luminous fragrance and the airy, immaculate and citric-laundry traditional feel exuding by fragrances as Sel de Vetiver and Divine bergamote. The chord of orange, greens and bergamot is an Ellena's fabric mark. The element that links these fragrances is that citric laundry Victorian factor made of bergamot, cedar and hesperides together with green aromatic notes as coriander for instance that is present in De Bachmakov. The note of nutmeg here is linked with mandarin and bergamot in order to produce a citric-aquatic orangy and spicy effect. There is a sort of aquatic floral accord made of freesia and shiso leaves that imprints a watery and transparent vibe to the all whole composition and that is present till a middle stage of the development after which a sort of almost anosmic and neutral cloudy white feel takes the scene with its slightly woodsy vibe, turning the juice out too linear and flat (probably the effect exuded by craie reminds the woodsy soft whiteness of musk). I don't smell a structured woody base in here while is in the air a certain level of greenness and spiciness on the side of the starring citrus. The final smell is a citric and a bit detergent mossy scent that lasts few hours close on my skin.
16th December, 2011 (last edited: 28th April, 2015)