Reviews of Oriens by Van Cleef & Arpels

    Find out more about Oriens by Van Cleef & Arpels in the Basenotes Fragrance Directory


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    rogalal's avatar

    United States United States

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    A fairly standard designer "fruit-chouli" with rather artificial-smelling raspberry and jasmine over Angel-esque patchouli. While that alone is pretty uninspiring, the real issue is a strange off-note that smells sort of like burning nuts, sort of like plastic, and vaguely fishy. As the hours go by and this grossness folds into the rest of the notes, it becomes what I'm assuming they're referring to as the "praline" note, but it's just a dreadful mess for the first hour or so.

    With dime-a-dozen "fruit-chouli" perfumes being so ubiquitous now, there's simply no need for one with a terrible mistake in it. Sorry VC&A. Oh, and for those who haven't seen it in person, the bottle is a cheap plastic mess itself, so don't fall in love with it in a picture...

    17 February, 2013

    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Forgive me but i basically detect a fruity and slightly creamy mess made of dark patchouli/orange, pungent fruits of the forest, jasmine and blackcurrant. In the dry down the juice tends to improve its approach (cause the dense white sugary vibe recedes towards a certain type of fruity-pear kind of-damp soapiness) but not enough to prevent my personal negative rating (i expect something more by V&A). For diverse reasons and facets on the side of many modern synthetic orientals as Black Xs For Her, a bit some Jacobs and Black Orchid Voile de Fleur (i absolutely agree about that with Sherapop), this V&A is on the way to lose its wake in the anonimous ocean of the modern powdery fruity/oriental, the most infamous genre in my humble olfactory vocabulary.

    02 December, 2012 (Last Edited: 03 December, 2012)

    finzi's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    I sprayed this onto the back of my hand and wrist in the shop, then forgot about it.

    An hour later I was in Superdrug and could smell the most awful, sickly scent. I thought it was the perfume of the sales assistant who was helping me at the time... then I left the shop and realised it was me! I'd had my hand on my bag strap at my shoulder and the perfume had been wafting over. I couldn't believe it was Van Cleef!

    Couldn't stand it, but left it on my skin for another hour to see if it got any better and it didn't. On my skin, this perfume is all about the praline and berry liqueur. Sweet, sweet, sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet... It puts me in mind of the very worst example of celebrity fragrances - sugary, cheap and loud, VERY loud. I get the same feeling with Biehl's PC02.

    Come back Badgley Mischka, all is forgiven. I used to think you were sweet but you are stone dry by comparison.

    15 March, 2012

    sherapop's avatar

    United States United States

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    Van Cleef & Arpels ORIENS is a big sillage sweet patchouli perfume. I'd say that the single word that best describes this composition is: voluptuous. A little goes a long way, and my distinct impression is that this perfume (edp) is much louder than the wearer may appreciate. When I wore this to bed the other night I was floating on a big billowy cloud of sweet and chewy patchouli leaves and ended up having--perhaps not coincidentally--truly fantastical dreams!

    This sort of composition, ushered in by ANGEL, and aesthetically similar to Bond no 9 NUITS DE NOHO and Tom Ford BLACK ORCHID VOILE DE FLEUR, to name but two examples familiar to me, may be the twenty-first century analogue to some of the larger volume "comfort scents" of the past century, including TRESOR, AMARIGE, and CASHMIR. The sweet patchouli fad may eventually pass to the point where people chuckle when they recall these newer compositions, but for now they serve very much the same purpose as those earlier sweet perfumes, it seems to me.

    ORIENS creates a blanket-like layer all around the body. I cannot really imagine wearing this perfume in public, but at home it feels like a piece of self-indulgence, like a rich, sweet truffle--something that one would not eat every day but is a nice treat now and then. My 100ml edp will definitely never need to be replaced--not because I don't like it, but because it is incredibly strong and appropriate only to intimate settings.

    The ORIENS bottle is a case study in excess. First off, this one--to my amazement--has roundly defeated the SJP COVET bottle in the "best suited as an implement of self-defense" category. This one is shaped like a palm-sized crystal ball, and it must weigh more than a pound. While the COVET bottle could be use to fend off a nocturnal intruder by knocking him out, the ORIENS bottle might actually crush his skull.

    I really find this bottle attractive except for the silver-painted plastic leaves appended to the otherwise beautiful cap atop the crystal ball. Someone should have said "Stop!" because the leaves are simply over the top, like a bad hat with not only flowers but stuffed birds attached. I wish that I could remove the kitschy leaves, because they really degrade the overall presentation. Maybe I'll hide the cap in a drawer, since the bottle itself needs to rest on my bedside table--just in case.

    06 August, 2011

    nonnative's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Not a bad parfum, but do we really need it? It is so similar to many, many other parfums. Apart from the colors and shape of the bottle that is very well balanced and nice as most of the bottles of this brand, I couldn't find any noticeable in Oriens.

    12 April, 2011

    Weimar27's avatar

    United States United States

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    Luscious and yet Refined Oriens has an dual identity
    It's sexy without being agressive it's a high class
    seduction subtle never demands it but you can feel it
    in the air, Opens with mandrian orange leaves a sparkling texure, Oriens turns deeper and succulent
    of the presence of Black Current bringing a sense of
    dark and primal sensuality the drydown is going through the tartness of Red Raspberries is sin in a
    fruit rubbing against your lover's lip for delicious
    satisfaction, Jasmine does'nt intrude and adds a
    quiet and elusive grace the shyest note in the perfume brings refinedness, The drydown turns a bit synthitic but sweet of Praline a decadent end to a
    scrumptious fragrance, praline is like creamy vanilla icing slowly pouring down on juicy raspberries finishes Oriens with a delectable pleasure.

    17 February, 2011

    mel_lou's avatar



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    Love at first sniff. This is not sophisticated! But it is a lot of fun. It starts out aggressively girly, the berries heavily in play. They stick around for a while, and then the jasmine starts to emerge. I love jasmine, but what I really like about this is the dirty patchouli lurking underneath. I mean, it is DIRTY. Not earthy, but dirty and sweet. I like the movement of this scent, from a girlish giggle to a woman's purr. I wish the purr was a little louder, maybe, but we can't have everything!

    17 June, 2010

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