Reviews of Jeux de Peau by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

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    Way Off Scenter's avatar

    United States United States

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    Genre: Woods

    Serge Lutens has done gourmand before; most obviously in the guise of Five O-Clock au Gingembre, Louve, and Rahät Loukoum. Jeux de Peau extends the line further in that direction. Yet where those earlier scents were either spicy or syrupy-sweet in their approximations of food, Jeux de Peau approaches comestibles from a more savory angle. It’s still dessert, mind you, but it’s more almond brioche than fruitcake or baklava.

    A warm, yeasty, fresh baked goods accord greets the nose almost immediately, soon followed by sweetening touches of heliotrope and immortelle. Dry sandalwood balances the sweetness with a vaguely nutty influence, while a dab of the apricot familiar from Lutens’s earlier Daim Blond adds a welcome piquancy to the central arrangement. Jeux de Peau stands out as one of the few scents I know (along with Jubilation XXV and Etat Libre d’Orange’s Like This,) that successfully incorporate immortelle without drowning themselves in its dense, viscous tide.

    While Jeux de Peau is extremely soft in olfactory texture, it projects well from the skin and plays out in a linear manner for several hours’ wear. The dusty cedar and mild, powdery amber drydown smells disappointingly hollow once it arrives, but at least it’s not oppressively sweet or heavy. Despite the faintly risqué name (which translates as “skin games”), wearing Jeux de Peau is a pleasant and comforting experience. Yet I feel the scent betrays its name in that, for all its cuddly texture and comforting associations, it wears awkwardly on my skin. The impression is hard to convey, but after every wearing I’m left thinking I’d like Jeux de Peau better in a room spray or a candle than on me.

    18 June, 2014

    ChanteusedesIles's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    They recently got the Serge Lutens line at my local Sephora, and I went a little nuts there and ended up spraying this on my skin in my haste. HUGE mistake for me! I tried this because I like creamy, warm & spicy fragrances and also peach & coconut, so I thought this would be a winner. However, this hit me with an overpowering "stale popcorn" smell that even the Sephora SA remarked on. Like butter that had melted and gone rancid. I was expecting something along the lines of croissants, (which I also love) or the creamy/ buttery qualities of many tuberose perfumes, but this was horrid. I thought it might be the wheat note, but there is a wheat note in FM's En passant, which I think is beautiful. Maybe it is the immortelle, as I don't know what that is suppose to smell like? Needless to say, this was a scrubber for me, though it sounds far lovelier on others.

    05 March, 2014

    rbaker's avatar



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    Very discrete games

    The opening's spices take on a wormed-up bread note with a dirty fruity character, which later sees some wood added. An original take, but extremely faint ofter the first thirty minutes, with very little silage and projection on my skin. Gone after about two hours. The points are for the originality of this skin game.

    04 August, 2013

    Oh_Hedgehog's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Jeux de Peau would have benefited from greater weight placed on its darker notes of immortelle and toasted cereals. More maple syrup and less cheap caramel, please! Before the inevitable sugar crash, the scent does a nice impression of a plump croissant smothered in apricot jam.

    It's not as if Lutens hasn't fallen into this sticky trap before, yet he still sometimes misjudges the balance between what's appetizing and what's merely edible.

    11th April, 2013

    Tony T's avatar

    United States United States

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    light spices,mild licorce and a bit of wood is what i detect. the bread note is light upon the first few minutes then the licorce kicks in. kinda foody but not gourmand. a strange scent that i like but my 1ml sample is good enough. maybe i will splurge for the huge 5 ml decant!! lol

    13 February, 2013

    TheWickedOne's avatar

    United States United States

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    My first full bottle of Serge Lutens - but will not be my last! The best way I can describe this is as foody without smelling foody. I can smell the bread, I can smell the jam and the fruit, but it does not come across at all like cake or cookies, just like the best bakery you have ever been in that doesn't happen to stock anything in chocolate.

    20th August, 2012

    sfonativeboy's avatar

    United States United States

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    Jeux de Peau
    The scent of Baked Bread like Croissants ....even a Baguette is intended and unmistakable

    On the skin, my nose picks up something of the nuances of bread which seem to
    fade into a buttery heaven,
    with an tiny bit of Fruity Confiture
    As the perfume mellows down it takes on a subtle nuances ...
    Skin and Croissant/ Baguette get confused.

    Jeux de Peau is a skin scent...
    meant to stay close to the body,
    disappearing into nothing more than a whisper.
    The Bread butter smell is very faint and you need to be very close to encounter it.

    The drydown is particularly beautiful
    Settling into a wood palette of milky sandalwood.
    .
    This fragrance is made to play with our memory of
    things we are familiar with
    and unconsciously like ....

    16 August, 2012

    Caltha's avatar

    Sweden Sweden

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    This is awful, truly awful. Like the über strong, sickeningly fake gingerbread accord in some Holiday scented candle. Others say buttered popcorn and it might be that too - only, I'd add, definitely caramel-flavoured ones. After reading the list of notes I definitely feel the bread (very plasticky cheap "freshly baked bread" accord), licorice and immortelle, and it's not a good combo.

    11th August, 2012

    gimmegreen's avatar

    Netherlands Netherlands

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    Souk popcorn. Mellow and foody, with a topping of butter if one is being charitable, dry sweat if one is not – a certain saltiness rising above the glutenfest. A little while in, the milky sweetness began to rise but never got uncomfortable and then a few hours later it subsided again and I was left with a toned down version of the opening. If this were available in small bottles, I'd get it like a shot – it certainly intrigues even if it does not wow.

    28 June, 2012

    Cindyrella's avatar

    Netherlands Netherlands

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    Serge Lutens is one of my latest discoveries ever since I entered 'the world of fragrance', and I've been pleasantly surprised by many of his scents, but this is not one of it.
    I was intrigued by the bread and baking notes, in combination with the floral and woody notes, and after I've read the raving review Bois de Jasmin gave I really wanted to try this. But this it was such an utter dissappointment: all I smelled was greasy buttery caramelized popcorn. It actually reminded me of a Black Phoenix Alchemy lab oil I've tried called Shill, one that oughtta smell like buttered popcorn, and it did..
    The buttered note became a bit softer during the drydown but it never left and I really didn't like this. I think that because of this note I really couldn't detect or appreciate any other notes, it completely ruined the fume for me.
    But lucky for me there are plenty of other SL to love :)

    21st June, 2012

    hyblaean's avatar



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    (a nice) Sandalwood, hot butter and pepper :) that's what shows up on my skin. I would never buy a full bottle since it smells too masculine for regular wear, but will enjoy the sample from time to time.

    03 April, 2012

    Kaern's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    It'a all been said really -- buttery sweet gourmand, slightly Bois Farine like, but less likeable.What is really depressing though is that Jeax de Peau smells like an amalgam of other Lutens fragrances and lacks any individuality, so I'm not really sure why it's been created. A couple of recent offerings from this House have been totally underwhelming and this is one of them. I hope they pull things round as SL has previously produced some stunning, groundbreaking work.

    03 February, 2012

    Acanthus's avatar

    United States United States

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    Buttered sweet popcorn - reminds me of kettle corn.

    23 December, 2011

    Maximiliani's avatar

    United States United States

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    This smells like a scone or some sort of anise seed/immortelle/liquorice flavored bread or pastry with apricot jam, butter, and maple syrup. Some people detect chicory coffee and chocolate, almonds, other whiffs of a patisserie, but all I got were the anise bread with apricot jam and a sticky syrup. Very sticky.


    It's very sweet, and while the warm "cream" or butter and apricot phenomenon that really makes it smell good at first is a fleeting experience (which is a shame) the jammy, syrupy smell you get left is pretty good, lasting quite a while until it becomes a bit of a maple/sandlewood skin scent, as if you actually had pancakes that morning and dripped some syrup on your arm and didn't notice. You'll get whiffs of apricot and the licorice elements once in a while but be aware your skin might make this pure syrup. I'm fair and have noticed my skin amps up sweetness. I have smelled other perfumes on other people that smell like the drydown . The sandlewood/maple is nice but not mind blowing so the price tag is slightly unwarranted.

    09 December, 2011 (Last Edited: 27 November, 2012)

    Zut's avatar



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    Jeux de peau did not live up to my expectations at all. From the minute I applied it until there was no scent left on my wrist, Jeux de peau has been nothing but a gingerbread/pumpkin pie Demeter-like fragrance with a lingering stuffy musky base. I guess this kind of simplistic single-note effect is fine for an inexpensive fragrance but where I live, 50 ml of any Serge Lutens EDT (or is it EDP?) cost twice as much as 100 ml of most other EDTs. Fortunately, Jeux de peau has a rather impressive longevity (well over 8 hours) but at these prices isn't that the least one can expect?

    04 December, 2011

    Mon-Petit's avatar

    France France

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    I liked this one at the first snif and immediatly wanted my bottle.
    It's a little regressive and recomforting, i wear it sometimes the evening for staying at home (not something i want to smell the morning).
    I smell an original and strong cereal note, a bread crust a little too much baked (from rustic type of bread) on a fruity/sweet sandalwood as a typical SL base.
    Something in the construction reminded me Douce amère, a constant oscillation beetween two elements: the base and the cereal/bread.
    The santal also brings a little buttered effect, for completing the toast.
    Indeed, everything for take a good breafast is there: cereals, toasted (burned?) bread, apricot jam, butter, hot milk and chicory coffee.
    Hopefully Serge didn't boringly maked a breakfast without any elegance and oriental fantasy.

    A beautiful balance between originality, the gourmand and the oriental refinement a la Lutens.


    25 November, 2011 (Last Edited: 02 January, 2012)

    Persolaise's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Try to think of a combination of the following smells... and please forgive me if you're on a diet: melting butter; crushed digestive biscuits; Monin's hazelnut syrup; warm praline; sweet almonds; vanilla shortbread; a faint suggestion of licorice; caramel; the sticky atmosphere of a patisserie... you get the idea, right? Somehow Jeux De Peau manages to be all these things: a fuzzy cloud containing every three year old's favourite scents. But its most impressive achievement is that it evokes an abstract sense of the concept of 'childhood' without allowing itself to be reduced to any one particular image; it presents an idea of bygone years rather than a specific memory of licking the remains of the cake mix out of the bowl. It is this balance that makes it so powerfully evocative: it shows you enough of the past to convince you the memories are real, but it blurs the recollections so they remain tantalisingly out of reach.

    In terms of structure, it's essentially linear. At the very end - just before it allows you to wake up and leave its dreamland - it does display a sandalwood glow (reminiscent of Lutens' own Santal De Mysore) but for most of its duration, this is an unabashed 'oven gourmand', turning the pages of the Dessert section of your most beloved cookbook with playful self-assurance.

    11th November, 2011

    moltening's avatar

    Thailand Thailand

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    Bois Farine is to peanut butter sandwich as Jeux de Peau is to buttered toast and maple syrup.

    This is a doughy immortelle with a sweet woody-amber drydown and a brief floral-licorice opening. Very cloying and mildly interesting at first, but the novelty wears off pretty quickly.

    10th November, 2011

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    An heavv gourmand that clearly shows the Lutens hallmark. Intense, sweet, rich...way too much. Pleasant at first with its apricot (mainly osmanthus to me) mixed with a buttery / milky accord, but definitely cloying after a while. The overall effect is like to be in a french boulangerie at 8 o'clock am. Steaming butter-croissants and bread, sweet aromas, icing. Pleasant smell if you go, get your breakfast and get out. But if you wear it for the whole day it gets cloying in two hours. Incredibly tenacious lasting power. Pass.

    08 November, 2011

    Filomele's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    French brioche, with demi-sal butter and apricot

    06 November, 2011

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