This is about iris - and a good iris it is, counterbalanced by woodsy impressions. Not too sweet, with shades of spice and greenness inter-playing with the main theme. I get moderate sillage and good orojection, and four hours of longevity. Simple and of good quality - that's good enough for me. 3.5/5
I'm just not sure about Bois d'Iris. It's OK, but I just haven't found it to be spectacular. I think it actually smells fairly simple, like black pepper mixed with frankincense with a touch of iris to cut the masculine woodiness and a vanilla base.
My big complaint is that the vanilla base is that cheap-smelling cotton candy vanilla, which basically ruins the perfume after a few hours. My other issue, which is a bit more esoteric, is that Bois d'Iris feels like it was trying to be minimal, but came out unfinished. Sure, everything's in its place, but there's no panache, no decoration - Great perfumes are made by the little details. A wisp of smoke, a hint of powdery flowers, subtle little bits that build character and keep things interesting. Bois d'Iris doesn't really have any of these, just peppery incense with a little iris drying down to a terrible candy note.
In a way, I'm being overly picky because this is so expensive and I expect more from a niche "exclusif" collection than I do from regular releases. It's not a bad perfume, it's just not extraordinary. I probably would have given a hesitant thumbs up if it weren't for the garbage base, but that's more than enough to drag my rating down to a tepid neutral.
Probably my favorite from the Extraordinaire collection and a new standout among the V&A's creations with its unmistakable noble iris royal smell flanked by a well calibrated amber with its corporeal (may be carnal) substance and some mild woody nuances. At distance (temporal and logistic) the iris comes up subtle and regal with smooth subtleness and all its ambery (ambergris) dustiness. The amber smell is sheer and exalts all the iris sophistication soothing the natural greenness of the noble floral note in a way that the latter turns out smooth and finally carnal while never laundry or angular. The dry down is a bit finally linear but absolutely stunning and elevated. Thumbs up for sure. A great, great Iris in my opinion, elegant, silent, boise and a bit sinister.
09th December, 2012 (last edited: 28th April, 2015)
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I was surprised by this one. usually iris fragrances struggle with the fact that they dont smell of iris due to the high price of the real thing. this one does not only smell of iris nobile but also has a nice smokey, woody, powdery warmth to it which makes it subtle but sexy. it has a good lasting power and remains elegant during the day.
very well done
07th April, 2012 (last edited: 29th June, 2012)