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Neutral review: Pros -- intruguing opening notes; cons -- low longevity, generic dry-down
Right out of the bottle, SN smells like a smoky tar monster in the same lineage as Patchouli Labo and Bulgari Black, with some of the warmth of the hay notes in Dzing!. For me, these types of fragrances are compelling as experiments, but not very wearable or attractive to smell on skin.
SN, however, makes a convincing argument for the smoke by blending it with spicy florals (or floral spices)--mainly the davana and peppercorns. Immediately after application, the inedible smoke mellows into a gourmand note similar to Lapsang Souchong tea, or peppery masala chai. Davana (one of my favorite notes, used brilliantly by Histoires de Parfums) brings warmth and creaminess. Surprisingly comfortable, after only a few minutes! On me, this fascinating phase lasted 2 - 3 hours, getting increasingly spicy and more incense-like. Vetiver is prominent as the main base note.
Just when I thought I might splurge on a full bottle, the drydown arrived as a generic woody musk, as boring and unchallenging as the opening was interesting. No traces of the smoke/davana/peppercorn were left after 3 hours, leaving only the completely mundane base. Definitely worth investigating for a more mellow version of Labo Patchouli, especially if the smoke/spice lasts on your skin. Maybe my skin just gobbled those notes up.
26 April, 2012