Total Reviews: 13
This soft-spoken offering from the typically soft-spoken house of Atelier Cologne made me eat the following words, which I've repeated many times:
"I've never smelled anything similar to any of Imaginary Authors line."
Well, now I have. Vanille Insensée is not as unique overall as Memoirs of a Trespasser is, but the dry and mellow vanilla smells as if it comes from the exact same aroma chemical. Honestly, the whole thing smells a lot like MoaT.
As for what I smell, it opens with the signature citrus/bergamot opening that Atelier is so fond of. The same opening that I can barely detect. About 10 minutes in, I get the type of vanilla I mentioned earlier (dry, mellow) with some nice green/watery notes (not aquatic, though) that come forward as it develops. There is a nondescript floral note that I can't put my finger on, but I don't get any jasmine. It settles down into a woody, dry vanilla base.
This a vanilla I can wear. It's not sicky sweet at all and like MoaT, comes across as gender-less.
Like almost everything I've tried from Atelier Cologne (I bought sample set of the entire line) this is pleasant and unlikely to offend. It doesn't particularly wow me though, and neither does Memoirs of a Trespasser, for reference.
Kind of strange that the name contains the word "Insensée" because I detect no incense here. Although, when I type it into Google Translate, it comes up as "senseless". So harsh Google! It's not that bad.
Atelier Cologne Vanille Insensee is a creamy vanilla, somewhat gourmand-like, drawing from many different concepts: woody, smoky, and definitely floral.
I didn't get too much citrus in the opening, despite the note listing. The experience started mainly with the vanilla itself, which didn't wait for the dry down. Similarly, I account for the amber's presence throughout the life of the fragrance due to the creaminess of the vanilla. The oak stands in the background throughout, anchoring the fragrance with a dryness that doesn't let it become a fleeting floral nor an overly cake-like gourmand.
To compare to other vanilla-focused fragrances, Vanille Insensee contains some of the booze of Perry Ellis Oud Black Vanilla Absolute, some of the florals of Dame Perfumery Blak Floral, and the darkness of Imaginary Authors Memoirs of a Trespasser, perhaps the insensee (incense?) reminding me of the prominent myrrh note in MOAT.
Now I'm not sure Vanille Insensee is as good as of these fragrances since it doesn't really commit to any one direction all that much, but that might make it all the more agreeable among vanilla lovers and non-lovers alike, the latter since it's relatively easy to wear.
On performance, Vanille Insensee projects more and lasts longer than most of its Atelier Cologne freshie brethren, so it definitely feels more valuable, and at an unusual steal at FragranceX for only $84 for 100ml.
Usage-wise, men and women alike can use this throughout the year. I imagine it can remain under control in warm weather but not disappear in cold weather either, so I'd speculatively regard this is a solid year-round option. Not my favorite vanilla but one I might consider adding.
8 out of 10
I'm really starting to enjoy Atelier Cologne's fragrances. They all seem to be slow burners: I'll spray one on, then think "Hmm, not much to that," and then about an hour later I'll notice a really nice, beautifully balanced fragrance emanating from about an inch from my skin. Vanilla Insensée is no exception. It starts as a sweetish vanilla with a lick of lemony jasmine, and then it ends in a light, woody bit of pie-spice. Quite a polite vanilla, really, in a world full of bombshells, beasts, and layer cakes--but not prim or shy.
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Light, refreshing Vanilla...
This is a vanilla that is in keeping with the spirit and direction of Atelier Cologne in that it is an eau de cologne with a vanilla aspect to it. That means that it is not a perfume with a heavy vanilla note. Instead it is one which is surrounded with citrus notes.
The lime and oakwood are the main notes, along with the vanilla, are what make this. I also detect the citron backing up the lime, and the subtle jasmine, giving a dirty quality to the mix.
I think this is a vanilla for people who don't like vanilla in perfumes. A very wearable vanilla for men and a unique, refreshing choice for women. Not bad at all!
Nevermind the insanity of the name, this is a pleasantly luminous vanilla-inspired scent with a fraction of the richness associated with the bean and none of the heft. A hint of spice, a touch of floral and a toasty paper-like crispness come together for a surprisingly interesting take on the genre.
Vanille Insensée smells to me like an improved albeit sweeter version of DSquared Rocky Mountain Wood with its warm floral incense vibes. Performance may vary with individuals but I can't personally fault its sillage nor projection as I find them excellent.
The opening of this fragrance is a very light and transparent semi sweet vanilla smell with the whisper of citruses mix with it.
The vanilla note smell like vanilla ice cream but it's very transparent with small amount of sweetness.
Projection is crap at the start and you can barely smell the scent.
A few minutes later suddenly the fragrance start to warm up and get stronger and sweeter and at the same time some floral notes came in.
The note breakdown says jasmine, but I can clearly smell rose beside warm and sweet vanilla not jasmine.
This combination smell sensual and interesting but it's quite feminine.
In the base some woods joined in and this is where you will find this fragrance almost unisex.
The base is a warm, sweet and sensual vanilla and rose combo with some woods in the background that give the scent a little smoky and dark masculine feeling which is very nice but still much more feminine than masculine.
Projection was terrible at the start and it's stronger and better in the mid and base but still average.
Longevity is good and it's around 8 hours which surprised me because of that mediocre to weak projection.
Opens with a musky citrus, which smells quite synthetic, although the vanilla is present from the start. After around 30 minutes I get a really weird metallic smell, which persists throughout although becomes less noticeable with time.
Every now and again I get a delicious wisp of vanilla, but on the whole the sillage isn't great on me and it feels like I'm sniffing vanilla through a veil. I don't get the jasmine at all, but rather a clean, musky drydown that seems a little at odds with the promised vanilla.
Might be good for those who want a dryer, lighter vanilla, but this is not potent or rich enough for me. Hats off to Atelier Cologne for selling 7.5 ml samples, however!
Non-cuddly vanilla. More woody than spicy or dessert-like. Papery, actually. Citrus notes at the top tell you that the vanilla won't be either warm or sweet. Ambery and smoky notes are accents rather than dominant notes and let the vanilla keep its crisp edge.
The Atelier line purports to reinvent the cologne genre. Without much sillage, strength or endurance Vanille Insensee doesn't step far out of the range of dynamics of the eau de cologne, but the composition certainly isn't the classic citrus edc. It has similarities to l'Artisan Parfumeur Vanille Havane, Serge Lutens Bois de Vanille and Parfums de Nicolai Vanille Intense. Atelier's vanilla shares the coolness of the other vanillas, but is airier, less radiant and more matte. It's the unlikely goldilocks between the contemporary woody vanilla and the classic eau de cologne and a successful refashioning of the edc genre.
Vanilla and a Paperback book....
Ok, it sounds weird, but this hits me as a strong dose of vanilla bean, and a supporting note that smells like a hot dry paperback book. It must be the oak and coriander mix, smells kind of like pepper (not listed as a note). Despite this, there is nothing special about it in my opinion.
When I was in the shop I made the mistake of assuming "Insensée" referred to incense (the French for incense is encens). Vanilla incense cologne sounded like a great idea. But, actually, the proper translation of "Insensée" would be "crazy" or "insane." Is "Insane Vanilla" a fitting title? For me not so much. 3 stars for quality. Although I'm not a fan of the scent, I can tell it's high quality.
Aroma: Even though Atelier Cologne advertises vanilla from Madagascar in the formula, I don't get the richness that implies. To me the vanilla note comes off rather flat. It reminds me of the synthetic vanilla the casinos pump into the air in Las Vegas to mask the stink of cigarettes. I get a subtle impression of the wood and oakmoss, but it's overwhelmed by white musk. Atelier cologne doesn't call out a musk note in their copy but it's definitely there. The overall impression I get is dry vanilla. I bought the travel spray on impulse along with some other Atelier Cologne fragrances and I'm glad I didn't get a bigger bottle. I'm going to use this for layering I think, but...
Projection, Sillage and Longevity: I find Vanille Insensée to have rather powerful projection and strong sillage. I layered with Ambre Nue and this one completely overwhelmed the other. I wore a little only on my wrists and even wearing a jacket that covered by arms I could smell Vanille Insensée quite clearly. It's been about 9 hours now that I'm wearing it and the scent is still making its way to my nose.
Value: I appreciate that Vanille Insensée is available in a .25 oz. travel spray. Like all Atelier Cologne fragrances, the big bottle is a great value at less than $1 per ml.. Vanille Insensée is also quite strong and a little will go a long way.
Pros: Strong projection, sillage and longevity
Cons: Flat, overly strong
Like raw vanilla bean and spice. Haven't tried it alone, but it pairs beautifully with LaVanilla "Pure Vanilla," which has some patchouli in it. Together, they're as satisfying as a hot cup of fresh black coffee.
31st March, 2013 (last edited: 13th April, 2013)
It's funny that I'm seeing the scent pyramid and that Vanille Insensée has all of these notes, because when I was smelling it at the Atelier store, all I really smelled was vanilla bean. It's not bad, in fact it's smoother than the pure vanilla madness of Love by Kilian. But honestly, it's not too original and it doesn't really waver from that one note.
l get a refreshing, woody-citrus opening, & then l smell a lot of white musk along with a whiff of jasmine. lt takes a few minutes for the vanilla to appear, & it's not candy-sweet at all, but dry, & laced heavily with amber. The amber becomes more & more dominant over the next few hours, & the base has a warm, woody, slightly honeyed feel.
l would say this fragrance is far more about amber than vanilla, so if you're looking for a straight-up vanilla, this isn't it. lt is a very nice fragrance though, & the sillage & longevity are good, this being labelled as a "cologne absolu". l think this is supposed to mean a "perfume-strength cologne", although l don't know why they don't just call it an EDP...
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