The "Coffee" Vetiver
I find this one very similar to other "modem" interpretations of vetiver fragrances in that the main note is paired with other complimentary accords. In this case it's dark roasted coffee. I find this one quite similar to vetiver fatal by atelier cologne. It's similar in that the vetiver smells dark and "nutty", and almost has a sweet aspect to it.
I'm not sure if this is a "holy grail" of vetiver fragrances but I certainly like it. I think it's unique enough to own. It's just a shame that it's discontinued.
Initial spray gave me a nice blast of citrus and vetiver (quality vetiver). Pretty linear for about an hour or so then you get a coffee hit out of nowhere. Caught me off-guard. Strange mixture but I like this one. 8/10
One of the best vetivers I've ever smelled...in fact, probably one of my favorite scents I own. I don't know how to describe it more in depth, other than to say it's different than any other vetiver I own. So sad it's discontinued.
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Thanks, foetidus, for your second-paragraph, reflective, appreciation. That gives me hope for the drydown.
The more I smelled DV in its 5mL decant, the more floral it became. I had to apply some quickly just to give the fragrance a fair chance. It's still sweeter than I would prefer and lavender is just not my favorite note in a fragrance (though I love it in the original). As for coffee and grapefruit, well, it seems the copywriters were given the first draft of the first brainstormed concept of the frag.
Though I may wear this vetiver little, I'm still glad I've got it because, having enjoyed Cuir Cannage for a few weeks, I now have a sense of Dior's exclusive line.
Vetiver opens with a very strong violet. The violet is sweet and very floral, not anything close to grapefruit or coffee. It reminds me an awful lot of Burberry Touch, which I strongly disliked.
Vetiver eventually becomes more bitter, more dried grass that is quite pleasant, but that doesn't make up for the weak opening.
Not the usual vetiver scent – especially in the sense that it has notes in it that dominate more than vetiver does. Unlike some other reviewers, I don’t get much, if any, citrus in the opening – I get mostly lavender. After the lavender settles down, I get leather. It’s not a strong leather, it’s not even annoying to me as most leathers are… still it overwhelms most of vetiver that is present. I do get a soft, grassy vetiver note as a background note through most of the fragrance, but the primary impact of this fragrance comes across to me as a dull, uninspired lavender / leather fragrance. To be fair, I have to say that my dislike of the accord has nothing to do with the quality of the lavender or leather – the quality is fine. My reaction to this does not surprise me – I have had problems with most of Dior’s exclusive line.
In spite of my dislike of the particular notes of Dior’s Vétiver, I must say that when the dominant lavender and leather accords tone down, it becomes a subtle, elegant, more-than-skin-scent that is quite catching and extremely easy to live with. It’s a quality fragrance.
I bought this blind after reading various reviews and I was immediately let down. First, where was this blast of citrus everyone seems to talk about. Citrus scents were my go to for a very long time after some very unfortunate fragrance purchases, so I generally feel confident that I know what citrus smells like in a fragrance. Artek by CDG, for instance…now there’s blast of citrus. If you’re not careful, it’s like walking into a lemonade firehose. Consequently, with my mind closed the way it was when I first sprayed it on, I dismissed it because it wasn’t what I was expecting.
Fast-forward a little bit of time and some considerable fragrance experimentation, I took Vetiver off the shelf and tried it again. My first realization is that I should not have simply expected lemon or bergamot at the beginning. Of course, grapefruit is a citrus as well. With that box checked off, I began to appreciate the peppery note that vacillates through the entire dry down. The constant is that fresh grassy note that reminds me of adolescent visits to my uncle’s farm. It brought back the summer afternoons baling the fresh mown hay and all the other wonderful things that were going on in my life at that time, made me appreciate the beauty of this fragrance and the power of olfaction to evoke memories and emotions. Try as I might, I still cannot find the coffee in this one.
It is a wonderful fragrance to wear at the office, after a workout, on a warm summer day or when I want to kick back on a weekend, put on Joni Mitchell’s “Blue” and reminisce.
28th January, 2013 (last edited: 09th February, 2013)
A very nice vetiver from Dior. It feels fairly unadorned and a bit simple, which isn't a complaint (I really believe that the best vetivers are the ones that let it do its own thing). It has a slight citrus smell upon first application, but very quickly settles into a pleasant mix of vetiver and nutmeg. It's nutty and warm and has smelled great in the winter cold. After a few hours, the nutmeg slides almost imperceptively into a mace note, reminiscent of chickory or herbal woody coffee, but the focus is on the vetiver all the way through.
Dior's Vetiver is very well done and quite nice. It's a thumbs up all the way, but I kind of feel like it's just another great vetiver in a large field of similar great vetivers. I suppose we're quite lucky that there are so many great vetivers out there (Sycomore, Guerlain, Givenchy, MPG, etc), but it makes it hard to get THAT excited when another one comes along. I think Dior's nutty warmth will earn it it's share of much-deserved followers, but I personally tend to prefer my vetivers with more character (like Encre Noir's smoky darkness or Le Labo's raunch).
The vetiver dominates throughout; it is a bit dirty but on my skin not particularly dark as a touch of citrus accompanies it mainly in the first half. After the beginning a harsh and burnt note is added that is gently mellowing after the first half. It is this nigh-smoky tone - with glimpses of the opening reminding me of Bulgary Black - that adds depth and darkness, not so much the vetiver. In spite of the minimalist design if this composition, their interplay develops complexity, and the blending is very well done indeed. Silage and projection are good, and so is the longevity of five hours. One of Dior's most convincing fragrances of the last decade.
After sampling this fragrance for months, I finally purchased a full bottle and have zero regrets. This fragrance simply makes me feel fresh all day long. It just lasts and lasts with a minimalist vetiver note. What I like most about the scent is actually what most consider a downfall of some fragrances; the lack of scent progression or development. I enjoy the fact I can apply this scent before I go out, and expect the same results 5 minutes, or 60 minutes later. While the sharp citrus opening note does hide after some time, you're still left with a very fresh and bright green note throughout the day. I really think this is a fragrance for everyone who loves vetiver to sample. You'll be pleasantly surprised.
01st December, 2012 (last edited: 05th December, 2012)
Vétiver’s grapefruit topnote is sharp as an unsheathed knife; its base of caramel and fudge (i.e. more tonka than the officially listed coffee) a sweet plea to let your guard down. The vetiver itself sings clearly throughout François Demachy’s simple, alluring scent and it easily secures a spot on an already crowded pinnacle.
This absolutely deserves more praise than it gets, and while it may not stand out as much as some of the fragrances in the La Collection Privee, it has to be one of the most pleasing,calming, and refined.
Dior's take is actually a perfect starting Vetiver, it took a note I didn't believe I liked and reduced it to a minimal composition, which really lets you appreciate the note. If you check their site you will see they list the notes as grapefruit, vetiver, and coffee. There is a definite citrus mini-blast in the beginning that stays in the background through the whole trip, but the coffee is nowhere to be found until you realize this is why Vetiver feels so smooth. The coffee isn't there as a separate note per say, but to support the vetiver and smooth out the rough edges that are typically there. This is what makes it so perfect.
Dior's interpretation of vetiver is essential, fresh, minimalistic, no-surprise and leaves vetiver to speak by itself. Opens with a zingy green citrus accord and evolves into an incredibly satisfying, high-quality multi-facets woody/earthy/rooty vetiver with a nice projection and a good lasting power. An incredibly simple composition that sounds more like a tribute to this fascinating root.
I still prefer the complexity of Sycomore or the green edges of Vetiver Extraordinaire, but Dior Vetiver is surely another great high-end vetiver to add to my list of favorites.
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