Quite authentic, credible grapefruit well executed and well maintained (good staying power for a fresh citrus). There is an allusive green bitter undertone that comes and goes and makes it distinctive (for a while) from other dominant citruses. Although most of the time it reminds me of Harris Miller’s own Citrus Citrus. However, this one is more complex and longer lasting and somehow fresher. Would work better as a truly unisex fragrance, too. On the downside, it is somewhat one-dimensional, but it doesn’t claim to be anything else – grapefruit.
This is the kind of grapefruit that you can eat. The edible, slightly bitter, slightly tart and slightly sweet type of grapefruit.
I thought I'd be put off by the melon but it blends so well with with the citrus, orange Blossom and herbs.
It opens with a distinct grapefruit and citric melody restrained by the herb and melon accord.
If you recall the grapefruit note in Azemour les Orangers, it is less stark and piercing in Le Pamplemousse.
What appeals to me is the obvious grapefruit note that is softened by the orange blossom. Whilst the herbs give it depth, a complexity that is very interesting.
Projection and longevity are superb. Will last and you will smell it without needing to raise your arm or other obscure body part to your nose.
A couple of hours into it and the grapefruit note has further softened yet still firm in its presence. The aromatic herbal facet is protruding.
This ideal for a person seeking to add a grapefruit and/or orange blossom to their collection while being averse to bitter grapefruit and too white floral.
I've worn this a few times now and I really like it.
I also noticed a distinct vetiver note that emerges much later on in the perfume. Mixes very nicely with some earthy notes but not dank notes. More of the smell if you hovered your nose over the earth as opposed to digging deep.
I'll summarize by saying that I am very impressed with it. It's depth and complexity ar very attractive. Keeping in mind that grapefruit tends to be single dimensional in nature but the orange blossom elevates it while the herbs give it a multi-dimensional facet.
I like it.
It starts with an excellent yellow (tart) grapefruit note -- this is really well done and has excellent longevity for a citrus note. The scent opens up and adds rhubarb, another tangy-bitter note. The scent here is very dry and bracing.
As the scent develops further, it picks up some gentle herbal and moss notes. Basically, it becomes a citrus variation on the excellent MH Petitgrain, substituting grapefruit for orange blossom. Some grassy vetiver appears.
The drydown is pleasant and mossy.
If you like Hermes' Eau D'Orange Verte, give this a try.
The fragrance notes from the company are slightly different from those in the BN directory.
Top: bitter grapefruit, rhubarb, green melon
Mid: Moroccan orange flowers, clary sage, rosemary
Base: vetiver, tree moss, Moroccan cedar
Tried this at the Miller Harris boutique in Coventry Garden recently and it instantly, forcefully, reminded me of Diptique's Ombré dans Le'au (just without the 'rose' that people talk of in relation to that perfume). The sales assistant said I was the 2nd person that day to make the comparison. Unfortunately for me this meant that a couple of strong sniffs from a smelling stip was enough to give me an annihilating drilling pain in the front of my skull....my reaction was even worse than with LODL as this literally made a big patch on the left side of my forehead go cold and numb and made me feel nausous. Obviously whatever note they have in common I have a serious chemical reaction to.
But to give a fair review not tainted by my personal chemistry, this perfume opens with amazing green notes. I was expecting something called 'the grapefruit' to be an obvious citrus and to smell of grapefruit, but this smells like stomped on riverside brambles and nettles.....it's much more of an English country garden smell (rhubarb, nettles, tall wet weeds) and I couldn't hear any citrus, but that may be olfactory blindness caused by my reaction to a particular ingredient. The opening blast of green seemed very natural, effective and well put together so I''m sure anyone who likes LE Ombré dans Le'au will appreciate and enjoy this perfume. Sadly I don't.
Edit. Think I was drunk when I wrote this..'Coventry Garden'. I sound like I'm from Royston Vasey.
26th May, 2012 (last edited: 13th June, 2012)