Total Reviews: 14
Chambre noire is a well-made spicy, woody and ambery leather with good quality and very pleasing smell.
At the opening I can smell a warm and semi sweet boozy amber mixed with slightly smoky/musky leather followed by some spices. also I can smell a fruity note in the background that smells like figs. everything is smooth and well blended and nothing screams at you. there is also a mellow powdery feel in the background that adds more character but not too much. it’s warm and sweet but not sugary and not even creamy. it’s spicy but very smooth. it’s smoky and leathery but more like sprinkle of leather on top not a rough LEATHER! it’s slightly powdery but it doesn’t remind you of baby powder and finally a little fruity with oily kind of feel mixed with it.
In the mid the fruity part gets a little stronger while smoky feel is still there and a little easier to detect but now it’s more incense with peppery feel rather than that musky leather at the start. the overall smell and feel in pretty the same but there are minor changes as I've described.
In the base sandalwood shows up and adds a dry woody smell to this mix and at the same time mutes the fruitiness and the sweetness noticeably that makes scent more bitter and more manly but still in a smooth way.
Projection is average. except 15 minutes of the start that projection is above average the rest of it is average and mostly close to the skin and longevity is around 5 hours.
I was very surprised at this scent. I expected something leathery and perhaps a bit animalic. I actually found it to be powdery & musty. It reminded me of Guerlain's Mitsouko a fragrance, like many early Guerlain's that I find extremely unpleasant.
Chambre Noire is a woody oriental fragrance along the lines of Chanel's Egoiste! No it does not smell like Egoiste, but it floats along that realm.
It opens up with prune/plum with leather & incense! It stays that way for a while with the prune/plum eventually getting bumped in the back but still present. The leather approaches making this scent somewhat dry giving the fact that the sandalwood note is there. It last 8 hours or so on my skin with medium projection. For use in cold weather as it does well.
This is not a masterpiece, but it is good. I am not crazy about the fruit note as you can find better fragrances who use that note much better such as Montales Dark Purple.
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On my cold and dry skin Chambre Noire doesn't follow the note-pyramid order.
It opens with sweet plum, accompanied by sandalwood. This stage reminds me of Bois et Fruits by SL for example. My personal taste is definitely not met here.
After a while the papyrus and pepper notes appear, the patchouli and cold incense sit quietly, I'm also getting cloves. Moist and damp papyrus can be very appealing to me (Private Label Jovoy). This one is bland though, it has no charisma.
After several hours the perfume becomes even sweeter, to me it's more ambery than vanilla based. I get even cinnamon and something like cognac.
I was most looking forward to the leather and powdery notes many reviewers are mentioning. On me the leather doesn't become alive, I wouldn't call it leathery. The base is not powdery to my nose, but I can see why it could be described as sweet powder.
To sum it up: loud fruity sandalwood at first, then a rougher papyrus intermezzo that slowly merges into an amber patchouli base. A fruity woody oriental.
The perfume construct is somehow static and quiet, despite the transitions. It reminds me of a shy person, that finally decides to go somewhere out of his comfort zone- but then doesn't know what to do with himself and all he can think of is how to get back home, into the static surrounding he is familliar with. Writing this, I realised it (conceptually) makes sense again, especially after I searched for the inspirational photo- as it did with Lumiere Blanche. It's the Chambre Noire of an introvert, where all the actions are the inner projections, not the outer happening.
Longevity is good again, sillage is relatively low.
I don't understand how people smell anything romantic about this fragrance. All I smell is play-doe and powder. No leather; no vanilla; no incense. I've tested this in several scenarios and every time it was the same outcome. Powder! The people of the opposite sex that smelled it on me recommended that I never wear it again. Not full bottle worthy.
The beginning is beautiful! First few seconds: leather, strong punch of incense surrounded and sweetened by rich amber notes. Second phase..heh... after 2-3 minutes - already going towards the drydown. Fragranced talcum powder – the old-fashioned way, heavily infused with violet strengthen by jasmin. Over the next 2-3 hours the leather will remain far in the background …no incense, no amber but powder, flowers and powder …
Sure, there is some sandalwood, patchouli and even a generous amount of pepper in the background but all remains hidden under a thick layer of powder....
I'm glad Chambre Noir does not last for too long... extremly difficult to wear for someone who does not like violet and powdery scents.
Mmm very seductive. Not a day scent to my mind.
You would either wear this when you were very dressed up. Or not wearing very much at all.
It's all incense and blackberry and musk and another note that I can't quite discern.
It mellows out beautifully.
Definitely one to put on the to buy list.
An interesting, solid scent, nothing too special.
Opens with a slightly odd watery leathery note, soon joined by a dry slightly musty sandalwood accord. I’m not too taken with the top of CN, however at drydown it develops a warming incense (with a slightly ambery direction) that is quite comforting, while the subtle patchouli forms a veil over the whole, softening and filling voids.
There’s an interesting play off between comforting notes contrasted with a slightly murky almost damp presence. It’s not noir, it’s washed out grey greens with earth tones permeating. It’s definitely nice, but it doesn't sing to me. There's something about the damp aspect that doesn't agree with my sensibilities. Solid but doesn't stand out.
Pros: Comforting, interesting.
Cons: Odd watery accord"
Sex appeal in a bottle
Sampled out from a Decant:
Wow what a Master piece, luv it and on my wishlist should get the big bottle in a couple of months as i'm still obtaining other frags but this one is in my mind. This frag from the first stage is olfactory impacting with it's leather, plum, boozy,powder etc accords is mesmerizing.Two enthusiastic thumps up.
Pros: Merges to your molecules and it endures through all other odor during your day.
Cons: (NON(Might be put of the1st try but give it second chance, cause I did."
Portrait of plummed leather.
Having recently turned my attention to the leather genre, I have fallen for this upon first whiff. Reminiscent of the Lutens line (for the first hour), it has a great heady patch, surprising plum which compliments perfectly the cowhide and a discreet jasmine, which is accompanied by a velvety violet done just right. I agree with the reviews about it's sillage (light for such a woodsy creation), but to be honest, sometimes proper diffusion of scent is grand. This mellows at the second hour to a close musk with enjoyable longevity, which is great, because I don't know if I could handle 6 hours of the punch that is packed during the first hour of application. I would recommend this for those who enjoy the light floral muskiness of Keihl's Musk, the Bvlgari Black leather note, or the compositional complexity of Serge Noire by Serge Lutens. A little high in the price range, but there's nothing like it, despite what others would lead you to believe. Accept no substitutes for Chambre Noire, can't beat the real thing by Olfactive Studio.
Pros: Symphonic composition.
Cons: Hard to get hands on."
A solid fragrance with enough mystery and calibre to be taken seriously. Chambre Noir is a dense, smoky and dark syrup with hints of incense, woods, leather and a stout patchouli conjuring the Mazzolari Lui's mustiness and the mystic Histoires de Parfums Noir Patchouli's leather/patchouli combo. There is some mintiness in the blend, especially in the top (combined with ripe fruits), possibly a combination of musk, aromatic herbs, plums and iris that turns the amber/patchouli out vaguely luxuriant and indolent before the incensey shadows fall down. Yes, i finally smell a sort of misty plummy leather really delicious and elusive. Impressive sillage and more than durable longevity on my skin.
27th January, 2013 (last edited: 28th May, 2014)
Chambre noir is a winner. As a leather scent its name suggests an SM-darkroom as much as a place to develop photogaphy, but in the end its really just a very elegant cuir assembled with great skill from notes found in some rather iconic perfumes, or at least lines. Pastiche is great, when it's driven by talent and deep knowledge rather than just embodying postmodern kitsch, which has been piling up mercilessly in the last decades in design, art, film, the culinary arts etc.
Enter a beautifully coreographed cocktailparty in a NYC penthouse with Serge Noir's burnt incense-patchouli, Bois des iles creamy-green sandalwood and Helmut Lang Cuiron's plummy leather having a great time together sipping violet cocktails sprinkled with pink pepper. Rather than declining into meaningless chatter this becomes a sophisticated conversation on style, aesthetics and modernism.
Though it may not be the top of originality- I'm too a newbie to make sure references to other fragrances, but it seems to follow a long and consolidated trail- Chambre Noire is an extremely pleasant, enveloping and sensual fragrance to wear. It's like a plump leathery plum, sprinkled with pepper, hiding a smoky sensuous core of flowers- jasmine and a suddenly appearing and fleeting violet- and a sweet spicy amber drydown.
It's warm, it's sexy, it has a considerable longevity.
29th March, 2012 (last edited: 16th January, 2014)
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Chambre Noir is a well done woody/oriental fragrance that smells exactly halfway between Egoiste and Bois Des Iles (current formulation) with the addition of a tad of incense and, maybe, some leather. Good and satisfying with a slightly dark twist but I honestly don't see enough reasons to choose it over the two aforementioned masteripeces.