Total Reviews: 59
A nice citrusy powder. I don't get much vetiver. I do get some vanilla.
I think this is a decent fragrance and maybe more wearable these days than EdT as it lacks that funkiness.
This is a shaky thumbs up. I honestly don't care for the opening of MYRRH, MYRRH, citrus and MYRRH but as it drys I would say it is very pleasant. Nice mix of the myrrh and vetiver at the end. Winter only scent for me. Enjoy.
A more robust, spicier version of the original, Christian Dior Eau Sauvage Parfum is typical of the "Parfum" flanker that is a greater concentration of the original. Unfortunately, the Parfum loses the freshness of the original but gains a strength that renders it more apt for wearing in cold weather. Perhaps the Parfum and the original EDT can be worn in cooler and warmer months, respectively.
As far as how it differs from the original scent-wise, in addition to being a little thicker and spicier, there's also a vague sort of anise-like sweetness that is a bit of turn off to my nose.
An interesting enhancement but nothing revolutionary, the Parfum should work wonders for fans of the original that were pining for a heavier performer, but it falls short of inspiring me. I'll adhere to the original, questionable performance and all.
7 out of 10
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Eau Sauvage Parfum was released at a time when people were shunning traditional citrus notes and moving toward the misguided trend of bergamot. I say misguided because the early bergamots were friendly, gentle affairs that appealed to the masses. Dior acknowledged that bergamot was the new king of top notes and delivered a rich, natural and high-quality interpretation, but one which has lost mass appeal. This bergamot is suffocating, dark grey like the liquid in the bottle, and no freshness in site. Surely there is also some petitgrain adding to the long lasting sourness of this fragrance.
This is no doubt a stablemate of the still excellent Eau Sauvage EDT, but they do not belong to the same situations. This is an attention-getting patriarchal and domineering fragrance. The wearer demands authority, not compliments.
After an hour it softens, like a nasty school headmaster who finally reveals a softer side. Now the impression of myrrh dominates, initially welcomed. But it's lack of development and its long duration will eventually tire the wearer.
I have worn this over a dozen times now and have concluded That it is a good example of why fragrances that are both simple and rich do not appeal in the long run.
Beauty in simplicity.
I actually got the base and middle notes reversed, the myrrh stayed with me for a long time.
I love it, and unlike the classic older brother, NOT a summer scent.
A myrrh BOMB...and its my signature fragrance. The heaviness...the pure chic-ness...and the hyper-masulinity of its nature, is all in your face and unapoligetic. There is nothing about it, I do not like.
A perfume story: Review of Eau Sauvage by Christian Dior © 2016 Frankie Chocolate
(For all you sexy beasts out there.)
Bob and I were discussing perfumes one afternoon and how they often held so much promise but rarely delivered on those promises. Bob is not from around here.
There was a girl I knew in college. She sat in front of me in English class. She would wear these tight sweaters and Obsession every day till it took all my strength not to crash up from the desk, sweep her up in my arms and smooch the living daylights out of her. I bought some for Bomb Bradshaw and I even put on a tight sweater but it didn’t smell the same.
I remember the sexiest smelling girl I ever met, I told him
Do tell, he replied.
She was something different. She was not Michelle Pfeiffer but there was something naturally attractive about her. I just couldn’t put my finger on it.
Oh. That girl? Oh you silly boy. There wasn’t anything natural about that that girl at all.
But she was the most naturally sensual creature I’d ever met.
Was she? All natural too? That would be worth seeing Franswa. Could we take a look?
How we gonna do that? Go back in time?
No. Said Bob. Not even God can do that. Mm well wait a minute. Come to think of it He violated a thousand laws of nature and man when he was here on earth. Walked on water, turned it into wine, fed the 5,000, raised the dead…I misspoke Franswa. If the creator wanted to go back in time he could do it simple as you walking across the street. But he’d never need too.
Why is that?
Because he already knows everything that gonna happen. He’s there 100% in each second of time. He doesn’t have to go back because he’s already there. Or forward. He said I AM not I was. Does that make sense? You and I would go back in time to change history or for a personal do over. He doesn’t have any regrets to go back and fix.
What about the devil?
What about him?
I’ll bet he wishes he could go back and unmake he devil?
First of all he didn’t make the devil. He made Lucifer. He knew Lucifer would go bad before he made him. So God had him sussed before Sunday. He’s really God’s ape. God allows him to do what he’s going to do so God can turn the bad into something good, even amazing.
I don’t think he shouldn’t have made him.
He made Lucifer good as gold. Bright, beautiful and powerful, full of light, joy and happiness. He became the devil when he chose to turn away from the good. One of God’s specialties is taking something terrible and making something good or even great out of it.
Why? To show off?
Just the exact opposite. Man and angel mess up because they are human and angelic. Not perfect. God already knows we are gonna cheese up and has already got a dozen plans in place to redeem our bad and turn it into something good.
I cheese up pretty bad.
Ever murder the prince of life and glory?
No. Not today.
Okay well the devil did. It was a gazillion time worse than anything you will ever do. It was not a good thing. It was the worst of the worst but God turned it around so Christ death on the cross opened up heaven for anyone who would accept the free gift. He took the very worst and transformed it into the very best. He didn’t orchestrate it so he could pull a rabbit out of his hat. He knew it was coming and already had the parts in play so it would work out the way he wanted.
Whoa. Imagine playing chess with this guy! He’d beat you in one move.
Two moves. Fools mate.
Two moves are the least amount of moves used to win a chess match. It’s called Fool’s Mate.
How in the world could you possibly know…
Wikipedia, said Bob. Use it all the time. You should donate a few bucks once year.
Now getting back to answer your question. We we will not go back in time to look up the girl because no one—but God could do that but we don’t have to. I have something wondrous that will help us. He held up a slip of laminated paper.
A library card? That’s your crystal ball? I don’t get it.
Really Franswa you disappoint me. The public library is a fountain, a reservoir, a wealth of untapped information and discovery.
And how will this show me the past?
It’s a special card. I just have to punch in the numbers.
We’re not actually dialing up the local public library are we?
No. We’re not.
He got out a bright pink Mac Notebook with cute baby animals underneath each letter.
Sorry, it’s my niece’s. I was in a hurry and my battery was dead.
Then by all means I proffered.
His fingers flew across baby lambs, ducks and platypuses. Images flashed across the screen till one flickered then stabilized. I saw my best bud Billy Shmagner.
He didn’t have an easy childhood. His stepfather was a mean old farmer who cared more about the new Steiger tractor he lusted after then the stepson he got in the bargain.
Billy was a bottle of pop shaken up with your thumb on the end. He was happy not because he had an easy or good life. He was happy because he consciously chose joy instead of complaining each day. He was fun and goofy and a lot bigger than me. We were both rail thin because the commune even though it took all the money we made somehow didn’t feed us all that well. We had a lot of adventures, carrying sheet rock, almost getting swept off a mountainside and that sort of thing. So many good memories between the bull and the bear. This one was about the hookers.
We were on the streets of anchorage, the seedy part and Billy boy was witnessing to a hooker. I was amazed at the wall of fire God put around this young man as he’d boldly walk up to the working girls and start telling them God loved them. I didn’t want to go any where near these babes because I was a young man and they looked pretty good to me. Billy didn’t care what they looked like. He had God’s heart and he cared for their souls not their mesh stockings.
So we’re walking the mean frozen streets of Alaska’s biggest city and he’s telling hookers God loves them when they don’t think anyone loves them at all and I’m half a block down praying for him. He finished up and I told him I wished had some money cuz I’d really like a 7-up.
If you want one why don’t you just ask God for it?
God is not gonna give me a 7-up.
Cuz he doesn’t want me to have one.
Because they are bad for you and we give all our money to the commune and I ain’t even got a cent for a pair of shoelaces or can of pop.
I think you need more faith Frankster
I need a lot of things. Right now I need a pop.
Billy sighed patiently, looked up to heaven and said, “Dear Jesus would you please get us some pop up in here so Frankie here can grow in his faith.”
Thanks Bill. That was really thirst quenching.
Three minutes later a longhaired free spirit walked down the road and engaged Billster in a conversation about the universe. Billy’s nodding his head trying hard to track with this guy but he’s really out there.
Yeah. Uh huh. Okay freak. I never thought about it that way.
Suddenly the dawn rose in his brain and he said, “I just bought this six pack of 7-up and after one can I don’t even want it any more. Do you want the rest?
Billy must ‘a been from Chicago because he never let on. Just as smooth as silk he said, “Yeah, I guess maybe that would be okay” like he’s doing the guy a solid.
So free spirit floats off into the dim grey afternoon and Billy boy gave me a little smile, held up the five pack and said, “See. You just need a little faith.” He bowed his head and thanked our God on accounta a fiver of 7-up isn’t something desperate like needing a kidney or hair plug transplants but He’s a lavish God and in spite of my unbelief he popped for the pop. He’s done that more than a few times I think.
I slammed two cans down and we’re walking across the street when this girl with dark hair comes outta somewhere and passes us on the right.
I’m in robo evangel mode so I blurt out, “Jesus loves you.” It wasn’t my finest work but I had a short window and the last thing I wanted on judgment day for the Big Guy to roll this tape and freeze frame it here and say, “There. There was the opportunity I set up for you and you breezed past it chugging Mountain Dew. I put her right in your path and you just let her walk on into hell. At this point I don’t want to correct the Almighty and tell him it was 7-up so I hunker down cuz I already know what’s coming next.
I had it all set up so this girl would repent and take over Mother Teresa’s slot and win everyone in Brooklyn to Christ and you couldn’t cough up a hello?
All this flashed through my sugar soaked brain –I’m sure it was my Catholic guilt kicking in too—so as we walked past her so I blurted out Jesus Loves you as a Hail Mary and hoped His tape machine won’t get this incident and if it does Michael the Arc will start humming amazing grace or something.
Her answer was one a condescending adult would give a child. “I’ve never needed God and my life is amazing.“
As she walked past us our nostrils flared and our eyes grew wide. A wave of sensuality and animalistic desire washed over us like Lake Michigan waves across Lake Shore Drive in a summer storm.
We looked at each other and said, “Did you catch that? What was that?”
I watched her walk down the block and felt a pang of regret as she turned a corner.
Bob stopped the vid and asked me, “ What did you see? What did you experience Franswa?
She was mid twenties. Brunette with short waved hair. Chubby cute. Good teeth. Jeans, a top hidden because of her black puffy jacket and scarf. Ok but nothing to make a bishop kick a hole though a stain glass window.
Very good. Now lets have a closer look, said the Bobster.
The sound was turned off. He backed up the vid so we were all walking backwards till he got to the point where she had just answered me and froze it there with her eyes half closed. He hit the frog key on the keyboard and a fragrance came up out of the computer. It brought back memoires.
Is that the smell you smelled Franswa?
That’s it exactly. How’d you do that? That is the most natural sexiest smell that could ever be. I smell that and I want to sweep the girl off her feet and have my way with her. I want perfume that smells like that!
He smiled a little smile and pressed on.
That my little crumb cake was the smell of sex in the afternoon.
I never smelled sex like that.
Mm. I wonder? He hit some more animal keys and then zoomed in on the woman’s back and where she had just passed.
Humming a snatch of Crocodile Rock he changed a filter so the image turned deep red. I squealed and jumped back half over the couch I was sitting in.
Firmly attached to this woman’s back was a grey malnourished demon that snarled at us. From him and her came the odor I’d just found so enticing.
There you go Franswa.
Where I go? Get rid of the demon. Can he see us?
He knows someone is watching him but not whom. Pay him no mind. He’s an imp of no account. But here is the reason you found this girl so irresistible.
This young woman had just come from an afternoon tryst. It had been fierce, prolonged and beyond intense. But it as more than afterglow you were picking up. This wretched creature had been in the room with them. Demons get off on sex probably because they can’t have any so they sometimes enflame people then get their kicks watching them go at it like dogs in heat. Faster faster rover. There’s a bad dog. Faster Rover faster.
So as the young lady fresh from her illicit encounter walked past you she was high from what she though was the best sex in her life. With sex like this who needs God so she gave you a carefree flippant answer. As she walked by the demon—this one’s name is Filth recognized you as belonging to Jesus so he shot out most of the pheromone he had saved up just to get your tongues hanging out. He later showed the tape of you looking with longing as the girl walked around the corner and tried to bring accusations against you but it didn’t stick.
Anyone dowsed with that much electrically charged pheromone and lust would have felt some stirrings. It’s the kind of lust that comes on like a flash flood from hell. It calls to you sweeping away all reason and restraint. It twists in your gut like a dull knife and you want more of the blade. You want all of it. In a half moment you go from Mort Milquetoast to a raving fiend that wants to plumb the depths of depravity and put in six sub basements.
So you see my little lump nut there was nothing natural about that girl at all. She probably even died her hair and what you experienced was only human desire amplified a thousand fold by a devil that should know better.
So it wasn’t real? All natural? Was any of it real?
The girl was real. The pheromones were real.
But that was the sexiest thing I’ve ever smelled. I want to be sexy.
How about just spraying on some Eau Sauvage.
Bergamot, Myrrh, Vetiver? I lifted it from my darkened shelf. An almost squat ribbed oblong bottle with a black belt and knurled cap. It was the sexiest thing I owed. I sprayed on three shots and suddenly I was ten feet tall and bulletproof. Look at me. I’m a sexy beast. Bob laughed and went home. He’s not from around here. The end.
Tried this from a tester bottle when it first came out in 2012. It first disappointed as it was not an adequate ES flanker. It was too sweet with a Vanilla overkill.
In 2014 tried it again, and the Vanilla had been toned down and I approached with the mind that it was a new direction.
I now find the Myrrh and Vetiver and Vanilla in
better balance. It is a joy to wear and quite distinctive. The newest Cologne and Sauvage don't hold a candle.
29th December, 2015 (last edited: 10th January, 2016)
This one does not work for me, and I had to scrub it off. It's a dark, brooding synthetic, harsh and unforgiving.
Eau Sauvage is one of my all time favorite fragrances, but I had avoided sampling the EDP for reasons I really can't explain, but mostly because I didn't want to replace the original if I happened to really like it.
The two fragrances share a name, but really are quite different scents. The EDP is centered on the myrrh note, which is quite pleasant if not slightly subdued. I didn't get the performance I was expecting in terms of silage and longevity, and it seems fairly soft as well. The vetiver base is reminiscent of the EDT version, but not until very late in the dry down stage.
Nice scent, but only a neutral and a pass on it from me.
Accidentally bought this meaning to get classic Eau Sauvage, but clicked the wrong button. Tried it anyway, at height of summer. Big mistake. Huge. That first impression was that it was smothering and opaque, too strong, too sweet.
Tried it again now that the weather's cold, and love it. Will be wearing it a lot this winter. I'm no expert, but see this as a stripped-down classic chypre, with the progression of bitter herbal/citrus, sweet resinous, deep earthiness.
In the heat this is a getitoffgetitoffgetitoff crawl-out-of-my-skin scrubber, but in winter, an entirely different beast.
Whoa, this is a STRONG one!lol I don't think this is really anything special. Don't get me wrong, it's certainly not a bad scent by any stretch of the imagination. It smells good and is a most definitely a quality frag....but to my nose it's mostly a linear sweet myrrh scent and not much more. Hardly the masterpiece some make it out to be IMHO. Longevity and projection as immense!
Eau Savage Parfum is a marvel because it is simple, yet complex. I don't know if those are all the notes listed above, but if they are, then Francois Demachy has magic up his sleeve.
Very masculine and self-assured. Like a man who is successful, but doesn't boast about it. It's probably what the soap smells like in the wash-rooms of a Fortune 500 company.
That citrus bergamot in the top is enough draw you into the rich, deep aromas lurking underneath, the herbals and spices and the aromatic woodiness. It's quite gourmand as it dries down, even though the bergamot remains in the mix.
There are people who clearly think this is not a patch on the 1966 classic, but it shouldn't have to be a competition; when you have two good things there is room for both, it's a great scent.
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It is always nice to have an DIOR name in your collection.A perpetual classic. ESP is one of those perfume that never goes out of style.All gentleman should try and use this EDP because ESP is in the true sense of the word a gentleman's perfume. Classy,Chic, Elegant,Vibrant,Sophisticated,Amazing, Mesterpiece and Gentlemanlike.
Great opening and great ending this is a superb trait between more DIOR fragrances just like this one.At the beginning It smells predominate of the Citrus notes.myrrh in the middle and vetiver in the base notes making you feel like caught in an exotic grove where all sorts of fragrant herbs grow.
Excellent aroma that can be used during the day as well as at night.The dry down is fantastic indeed.
ESP is a very earthy and sensuous fragrance.this one is not for the average fragrance guy who wears popular fragrances.It is a more developed taste.In my opinion It's has a very subtle smell and masculine in nature.very french in style.suitable for business meetings and anywhere you want to assert yourself.A wonderful signature fragrance for a rich tycoon and one of my 5 favorites at the moment. Thank you CD!
Longevity?10 hours on my skin.
Actually there is eau savage hidden in this. Whoever has a familiarity with the latter's accord can't miss it. In fact this is a rich citrus with an underlying myrrh that is somehow sweet and balsamic. I notice jasmine in this composition also. The vetiver is present mostly in the dry down and leaves the final trail. Very long lasting and with power silage.
I got this in today and after spending some hours with it I'm loving it. I can see why it's considered a fall/winter cold weather fragrance as it could be suffocating in the heat.
The bergamot and myrrh opening is creamy and enticing, like an earl grey tea with a splash of heavy cream, it evokes a well dressed, serious guy and I'll probably find the occasion to wear this a few times per year. As it dries down, the vetiver makes an appearance. As it's subtle smokiness combines with the myrrh, it brings a 'smokey incense-y' vibe to it that's very masculine and comforting (being a recovering Catholic). The bergamot sticks around throughout and the combination really does equal more than the sum of its parts. I imagine a man in an overcoat, drinking a cup of earl grey in a park adjacent to a cathedral on an overcast sunday morning after mass has ended, wafts of fugitive incense billowing their way through the park.
10 month's later...
I just LOVE THIS JUICE! ..and it's amazing to me what this trio of notes combine to create in this fragrance.
The tone of ESP is overcast. That's what I get. It's a month of overcast sundays in a bottle. Yet it's not a clinical depression. It's a divine melancholia that possesses you for a time. It's a romanticized sadness, reflective and thoughtful. The kind of emotion which deepens us as people and increases our capacity for compassion and kindness. It's almost funereal and as much as I love this stuff, I think (if applied tastefully) its would be suitable for this purpose.
Notes I get besides the vetiver, myrrh and bergamot composition:
root beer (especially root beer float)
18th February, 2015 (last edited: 17th December, 2015)
Powerful, metallic bergamot resting on a sticky syrupy myrrh. Normally a fan of bergamot and of myrrh, I didn't care for either note, separately or as combined, in ES Parfum.
Wore it twice and scrubbed it twice. On neither occasion did I make it far enough into the wearing to experience the vetiver-myrrh dry down, about which I was curious. Oh well. Life is too short.
Verdict: Not your father's Eau Sauvage. PASS.
Simple notes, great scent! Sweet and light citrus with a mild vetiver. The myrrh is a perfect note to add in this gem. I will be purchasing a bottle of this before the warmer weather gets here. 8/10
I'm not into incense but this one is good. It's Eau Savage smoothness keeping the incense from being too much. It lasts longer than the regular Eau Sauvage. If you like incense it's a no-brainer.
Another marvelous fragrance from Dior.
I think it's important to keep in mind that is not an 'intense' version of the traditional Eau Sauvage. This one is pretty much different and, imo, the main difference here is the masterfully simplicity of combining three wonderful masculine notes (bergamot, myrrh and vetiver). The result: a balsamic, exotic, sweet-citrusy masterpiece and, in my opinion, the reason of the success of this release.
More oriental and a little bit darker than its Extreme predecesor, with a wonderful myrrh note, very well combined in the whole of the composition, surrounded by a zesty citrus top and an earthy vetiver base. It lasts 6-10 hrs on skin, with a noticeable presence in the first 2 hrs, a versatile and compelling creation. My personal rank 9/10.
Wow! What a great fragrance...
Eau Sauvage Parfum is a deliciously smooth accord of sweet myrrh and citric bergamot that is at once fresh, airy, creamy, soapy, and powdery. It's all of these adjectives, yet never too much of any one. Within the myrrh and bergamot there's a hint of vanilla, a cream soda-like aroma that emanates from the heart. It's grounded in vetiver, which gives it a solid base, but the vetiver is carefully restrained, a middle-of-the-road earthy wood that is neither too dark and dirty or too grassy and bright. It compliments the myrrh and allows it to shine as the star of the show. The myrrh is beyond reproach.
Stylistically, I'm too comfortable smelling this to consider it a formal fragrance, and at the same time it's so nice, I don't want to label it "casual" either. You could easily dress it up in a suit and tie, but I'd be hesitant to dress it down beyond a sweater and a good pair of jeans. Age wise, I imagine it will work best on a mature 25 and up, but don't let that limit you--it's just a reference. Projection is excellent and longevity is very good. Be careful not to go too heavy on the trigger.
Once again Dior has created something that's unique, a little unusual, and smells fantastic. The bottle looks great as well.
Very, very good stuff here. I cannot believe so few notes can create a fragrance that is so complex! It has a fresh citrus opening that does smell like an amped-up Eau Sauvage. That may actually be my favorite part of the fragrance, but the dry down is as good as advertised: sweet, spicy myrrh with a proper, sharp vetiver. It smells fantastic from start to finish. Go easy on the sprays (ONE - maybe two if it is cooler out), and it is perfectly suitable for office wear. It really shines at nighttime and when it is cooler out. I own or have owned many of the well-recognized "compliment magnet" fragrances - YSL L'Homme, La Nuit de L'Homme, Bleu de Chanel, etc. People compliment me more on this fragrance than anything else. Maybe it just suits me, or maybe it is just that damn good.
This stuff lasts longer than anything I have ever tried - spray it on at 7am, and it is still going strong at 11pm. The potency of this fragrance is to be respected, both from an appreciative point of view and a cautionary one. When I first got it, which was in July, I wore two sprays to work in the morning and had no problems - loads of compliments, and smelled great all day. I was going out to dinner with friends afterwards around 7pm, and stopped at home to "refresh" myself with a spray of this awesome new fragrance I had purchased, and put on two sprays. BIG MISTAKE. The entire drive over to the restaurant (~30 minutes) my eyes were stinging, like I had sprayed it directly on my face rather than on the sides of my neck. I don't know if I was choking out everyone around me at dinner (maybe my friends were just polite), but I was definitely choking myself out for a good couple of hours.
This stuff reminds me of an intoxicant - use it responsibly and you will have a great time. Overindulge, and you will pay for it.
I have read that people think this is a pure perfume or an extrait... Well, to me it's simple EDP concentration.
It has very little in common with original Eau Sauvage EDT and absolutely nothing in common with Eau Sauvage Extreme (the new one, Intense. It sounds terrible, lol).
The opening is a wonderful burst of citruses. They're very juicy. It lasts about 5 minutes or so and morphs into an oriental bomb made of myrrh, vanilla and maybe some other oriental spices. I agree that the myrrh is an absolute star here. This fragrance is very smoky. Later on it gets more and more balmier with appearance of vetiver. Fragrance from now on smells like myrrh on the woody base.
Logevity is around 15 hours, sillage is great. It was my blind buy and I can tell you - one of my best blind buys ever.
I don't know….I tried this 5 times, and each time it morphed in very short order into the current formulation of Chanel Pour Homme. It's as if the two were the same thing. I don't get it. This is a perfectly competent, quasi-sophisticated man's fragrance, but it isn't compelling, and because to me it is so derivative of the Chanel (or is it the other way around? Well, since I already own the Chanel the chronology for me is Chanel was first and the Dior is derivative), I don't find this a "must have". I can see this as a dressed up, smart man's fragrance, but so is the Chanel. My advise? It wouldn't hurt you to buy the first of these you come across and pass on the other.
A dominating Myrrh fragrance from the start to the middle , very power full and some how different from the available lot...I really like the the opening but I love the dry down which very very musky and smoky to me....stunning fragrance with very good silage and longevity. Thumz up.
Wow Myrrh, who would have known. This is my first myrrh based cologne, and I love it. The myrrh combines with the vetiver giving it a very sophisticated aura. I believe it could be for evening wear. Only a few sprays though it can be a bit strong.
There are aspects of Eau Sauvage Parfum that I completely love (e.g. the incredibly good quality vetiver and the sparkling aspects during the opening) but, unfortunately, there are also several facets that I find thoroughly unpleasant. It basically shares the same marzipan quality already found in Dior's Eau Noire which, although I'm generally a big fan of immortelle, it's probably one of the very few helichrysum-centered fragrances I totally dislike. This facet is way toned down in Eau Sauvage Parfum but it is somehow still pretty remarkable together with some extra sweetness provided by the myrrh. All in all not a completely bad fragrance but way too far from matching my taste.
Lemony resinous smooth vetiver and sweet spices with dignity orchestrated in order to control the final "softness" and to preserve a certain level of hesperidic/spicy articulation (especially if you inhale the aroma at distance otherwise it risks to appear steady and pungent , probably too much intensely balmy/lemony). In the initial stage the bergamot is almost luxurious but just for a couple of minutes before the aroma starts morphing in to a flat hesperidic strongly resinous final ointment. The standout note of myrrh is indeed powerful since the beginning, "enveloping" any trace of classic/traditional subtle (herbal/citrusy) freshness (proper of the original historical version). The aroma is anyway elegant and subtle, never cloying or overly dense or spicy along the dry down. In the final phase the myrrh is indeed more restrained and controlled . I don't catch olfactory originality or special craftsmanship but neither see particular reasons to complain about the structure or the aroma "in se". The evolution is not for sure articulated or particularly laborious and in substance the fragrance embodies by soon (not more than twenty minutes over the fist spray) its final attitude. The dry down (which anyway I moderately like) is a more subtle resinous vetiver with sweet spices (cinnamon I suppose) and a lemon orange feel (hints of neroli?). Really long lasting and with a good projection.
29th March, 2014 (last edited: 07th January, 2015)
I've decided to write a review about this one later but I couldn't resist anymore!
This is one of the best releases in designer fragrances in years.
A masterpiece that the words are not enough to describe this beauty.
There are only three notes in this fragrance and I'm going to throw vanilla in it too which makes it four and all these four notes have stunning quality and masterfully blended together.
The opening is a great combination of all four notes but bergamot is prominent in the opening.
It's tart, fresh and bitter citrusy, but oily, resinous and dirty because of myrrh and also a little smoky and rooty because of vetiver.
There is a little sweet vanilla here too to wrap it up and give the scent more depth.
In the mid the citrusy bergamot note settles down and I can smell more myrrh and vetiver.
It's smoky, dirty, earthy and dark but a little fresh, sweet and sexy at the same time.
The vanilla note here smell like vanilla ice cream and give the scent a very sensual aroma.
The base is very close to the mid as far as the smell but it's a little more vanilla ice cream like sweet and a little less smoky.
Projection is awesome and longevity can easily pass 12 hours.
Some people say that this fragrance smell very mature and kind of dated but I don't agree with them at all.
This is not a casual fragrance for teenagers indeed, but if someone around 25 and up wants to smell like a real gentleman this is one of the best.
If the original ES was the rugged, rocky, snow-capped peaks of the Dolomites, the Parfum is the soft, green, nurtured hills of the Piedmonte. It’s a pity. I feel as if the Parfum misses the point of the original.
Vanilla is more pronounced than myrrh.
I’m a little tired of vanilla recently, as my wife seems to be alternating between Dior Addict and Joop le Bain, while I do my best to feign appreciation. So the vanilla here is not good news to me. It’s also a particularly flat vanilla: not the pod, with its velour; not the empty bourbon cask, with its lugubrious oak. Rather, Mr Softee ice cream, melting in rivulets down the side of a cheap wafer cone.
The myrrh, when revealed, is not the dirty, smoky, soapy myrrh of the censer or the souk. It is simply heavy, like ballast cargo in a tea clipper. It does its job unobtrusively and reliably, with aplomb, without ornament. Vinnie Burke’s double bass behind Tal Farlow and Eddie Costa.
There is, eventually, an agreeable waft of a mineral, chalky, slate texture.
The citrus is somehow less Hesperidic and more confite. Lemon curd and unsalted butter, spread on freshly baked and broken petit pain.
Nice for breakfast, but not the holy water with which to anoint the hero.