I really have no idea why I'm just not enjoying Umbra. This is the kind of scent that I usually love, and which almost always smell great on me.
It goes on with a blast of grapefruit before the bergamot/moss chypre smell comes through, supporting a leafy green smell that's as much mossy geranium as it is vetiver. The whole thing is a weird push/pull between the brightness of the citrus and the fusty mossy quality of the greens, which I think is what's turning me off. Somehow, they don't feel fully incorporated, like there's a note missing or maybe one too many ingredients. I honestly don't know, but something in there just isn't "clicking" for me, and I think it's just something personal.
I suppose it's mostly that there are so many excellent vetivers out there (Guerlain, Chanel, Givenchy, MPG, Dior, et al) that I have little patience for one that doesn't wow me.
A watered-down version of Vetiver Tonka, masculinised by reduced sweetness and a bit of added pepper. Very pleasant for the 3 hours it lasted.
Umbra is a dry, kinda sweet-balmy, woody-mossy vetiver. A solid rosy-geranium plays a central role providing both fresh and old-school facet. Kinda soapy. To be completely honest, it actually opens with a modern accord of green fresh vetiver and pepper to then quickly evolve into a sweeter woody-mossy balsamic drydown that's definitely more old-fashioned.
Interesting if you like restrained mascluine fragrances. Turns great on a woman...
10th July, 2012 (last edited: 03rd July, 2014)