To understand art we need to investigate artists, their geniality and what is their dominant instinct. One is reminded of Camus: “When one has no character, one must have a method.”
Telling about Giovanni Sammarco, I tell first of all about a friend. He was an exceptional blogger (fragrancescout), he supported positions contrary to the vulgar marketing of perfumery, and he has inspired other Italian bloggers. He was also one of the first fans of O'driù, and this has been my privilege. Giovanni loves women with red hair, and once, during a lunch together, asked me to make a perfume particularly suited for red women's skin. Then I realized Xvert (pervert) in a limited edition, giving the first one to Giovanni. One day he asked me how to become a perfumer, I told him that the only way was to make perfumes, always considering yourself as an amateurs who is learning.
So, he takes his time (and his money too) to fulfill his dream. Such a person deserves respect, because, compared to many improvised perfumers, he has his definite idea. I tell you now that I don’t love his creative approach, but I also say that we need perfumers as Giovanni...
Commonly the perfumer still points at some external bullseye for our compassion, but more and more often it is the perfumer himself who is the one in need (either for his wretched past, or for his wretched attempts at perfumery). We do not need to cry for some dispossessed or wretched third party; we can weep our puddle of tears directly onto the perfumer. Giovanni isn’t a pathetic person! And this is a plus. He believes that the scent corresponds exclusively to the quality of the raw materials, and this can’t be an artistic approach.
His perfumes are good and well made, but nothing more! I think ultimately that Vitrum is a great scent, it is a transparency otherworldly, an old-new vision to be a perfumer. However this fragrance has no soul, and it seems only a onanistic path. The luxury of a perfume is the luxury of wearing an idea of art and not only good or bad smells! Only a non-artist would need to fluff up art with non-art.
But to get noticed now, you don’t need an artistic perfume, you need a relevance. You need a hook for a critic to hang a hat on. Even in "realistic perfumery", it is better to have a hook with a blogger than something to tell!
Giovanni! You need a blogger as you was!
So, although I do not like this kind of perfumery with only aesthetic values, I strongly hope that the phenomena as Sammarco grow and develop, because they would represent a different choice and a personal vision of perfumery.
This reviewer may have conflicts of interest