Total Reviews: 4
Xvert opens with a menthol-herbaceous accord animated by a loud dose of vanilla and lavender, on a slightly animalic-musky base (with a peculiar soft and fairly sweet aftertaste, pretty much like castoreum). Finally a floral bouquet completes the still life, a humid bouquet rich and gloomy, which concurs to create what I consider O'Driù's typical olfactory landscape - a nostalgic, slightly decadent, even slightly nasty and luscious ambiance, with moldy smells and pungent sour herbs blending with sweet, narcotic floral and powdery notes. After less than hour, the first bold twist in the evolution: an almost sudden breeze loaded with herbal aromas arises, really dense, balsamic and crunchy, brownish and scented like a park in Autumn. This powerful accord of herbs and woods is incredibly rich, invigorating and spicy, managing to carry at the same time O'Driù's typical medicinal-anisic feel underneath, that gives Xvert Pregoni's "signature" ambiguous naughtiness all over. In short, Xvert smells of dead leaves, medicines, abandoned family houses in a forest, carrying contrasting feels of domestic nostalgia and urban melancholy. As hours pass it progressively sweetens and softens, warming up and letting a pleasant, comforting and mellow woody note emerge (something like sandalwood). Considerably simpler and more wearable if compared to other scents by O'Driù and honestly also less intriguing and fascinating than others in my opinion, but still totally pleasant and compelling quality-wise.
The top note starts with the aroma of old leaves rotting on the autumn soil, a bold, creative but slightly unusual start. Soon a delightful magnolia note brightens it up, like a ray of mellow sunlight breaking through the trees. The drydown is greener, based in estragon and cardamom, with a pleasantly medicinal hint. A note of sandal with dried grass determines the base notes beautifully and a tad more traditionally. On my skin the initial projection and silage are acceptable but it is not very loud after the first hours, and the second half is quite close to my skin. Excellent longevity of over ten hours. A creative version of the autumn forest scent, a kind of dunhill blend 30 meets Hieronymous Bosch.
Oh, what an audacious decadent fragrance! A "non-fragrance" kind of niche smell, so realistic and ambient, almost apter to the throat gluttony than to the olfactory perception, so far from the chic international perfumery, from the olfactory tendences, fashion and beauty salons. Xvert is extremely spicy (it smells almost as a pepper sack) till the borders of the saltiness. I smell saffron, cardamom, kurcuma, red pepper and cumin but probably many other culinary devilments (some with a slight edible/agreeable vibe----any civet?) escape from my vulgar nose. There is some mouldy trace in the wake at the beginning, something that more than vaguely reminds me a combination of oakmoss, mushrooms and mould and probably this type of feel is produced by the interaction between light citrus, dill, wet "dead leaves" and hay. The listed dill is the responsible (not alone, probably terragon and oregano flank it) of the slightly aromatic touch. Xvert is ancestral as the (padded and out of focus) childhood memories across the farms. Hay, hay and hay, it's apparent, as well as the till presence and something peaceful and secret as the aroma of the dead nature (echo of dead leaves) of the forest. A late fall kind of scent this is. The culinary spices are aromatic, red, green and yellow, and the herbs are edible and barely minty. At the beginning it seams yourself to be nearby an oriental city bazar or may be inside an old mill. The air is dense by edible aromas. I detect nuances of toasted bread, hay, spices (pungent and aromatic), salt, barley, corns, starch, flour etc. Frankly i'm unable to detect floral notes (is listed the magnolia i don't know it means in its floral o woody essence) but probably at distance (exuding the smell from other skins, while i tested the juice on my wrist) some light floral notes could be better noticeable. The touch of aromatic feel is anyway far from the O'Driu' landmark anisic/absinth/piney vibe that we appreciated in many other compositions. The longevity is not at top on my skin and i don't perceive a complex development but the juice is heavenly at all. The dry down adds a sort of woody (sandalwood for sure, may be hints of vetiver) more stable olfactory basement that imprints more structure to the "baked/spicy" dominant smell. I adore this precious culinary and rural fragrance which is saturated by evocative conjurations of my rural childhood which i spent close to the real nature.
12th November, 2012 (last edited: 08th January, 2013)
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XVERT opens with a note in it that really resembles wet dead leaves on the ground. The wet dead leaves accord is tempered by a dill that is quite familiar from many other O'driù creations and no one does it better, IMO. Cumin and cardamom spice couple with other culinary herbs like tarragon and oregano in the heart notes to mingle with the remnants of the wet dead leaves accord and dill witnessed in the top notes that hang around well into the heart. The earlier spice diminishes just a bit to reveal jasmine, sandalwood and an animallic presence in the base that I can't quite put my finger on... The scent in general is very dark, earthy and spicy, with slight animallic qualities. Projection is average and longevity is excellent.
XVERT took me a bit by surprise, as the first time I tried it I was not too enamored with the composition. It's rendition of dead wet leaves decomposing on the ground (whether by using the materials themselves or some inspired clone) is spot-on accurate, bringing back memories from my early childhood visiting my grandparents where they would always have wet Maple leaves piling up on their yard with the exact same scent. It is a bit off-putting at first, but I am now warming to it. This is not really the kind of accord I want to smell of, to be honest, but it does evoke pleasant memories of the past... The dill also plays a key role here, as it tempers the bite of the decomposition early-on and well into the heart notes. Still it is the scent of earthy decay that dominates the spicy composition from start to finish and that makes it a tough one to wear; not because it is so shocking or off-putting really, but rather it is more of an artistic vision than a scent one might want to wear regularly. Very strange but interesting stuff here from O'driù that earns a "very good" rating of 3.5 stars out of 5.