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    Vaniglia by Mazzolari

    A sickening ethyl maltol and vanilla bomb opening with virtually no nuance whatsoever; itís just loud sugar and caramel ó seriously. There are no other recognizable notes. It takes about fifteen minutes to quiet down a bit, but even then itís just maltol and vanilla. Although slightly less nose-destroying, this is very much Bath & Body Works fare. From the line that brought us the amazing Lui, this is shockingly poor.

    05th March, 2015

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    Join The Club : Kind of Blue by Xerjoff

    Itís a Xerjoff so the blend quality's there and this has more personality than the line usually delivers. Itís a very floral scent with touches of jasmine over a semi-oriental base and a prominent, narcotic narcissus center stage. The narcissus is the most fascinating part of it because it really does smell like they managed to synthesize the real thing quite well ó and narcissus smells amazing. A good amount of character to this one, but it doesnít offer much more than a natural-smelling floral with a creamy, C-11 style base. Exotic, rich, alluring, it reminds me a little of Tom Fordís Shanghai Lily only way more amped up. One of the better Xerjoffís to my nose.

    05th March, 2015

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    The Swan Princess by The Vagabond Prince

    The hideously named Swan Princess is a soft, sweet chemical violet with a slight soapy nuance. It smells adequately composed, but thereís nothing to it other than a chemical violet. Itís strung over a polite synthetic base thatís perfectly serviceable, but the result is a scent that youíve smelled many, many times before, and not in the best of circumstances. Although the quality is ramped up a notch, this could pass for a drug store perfume. Polite, but largely pointless and kind of half-assed, it reflects what weíve come to expect from the far-too-prolific Duchaufour as of late. The first release from this line remains the best, and that's not saying much.

    05th March, 2015

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    Oil Fiction by Juliette Has a Gun

    This is a soft, buttery, vanillic floral scent. Perfectly pleasant and very, very nicely put together, even though thereís nothing ground-breaking about it. It opens with sweet petals, and that sweetness is a constant throughout the wear, but itís never too overdone or cloying in any way; it smells like the natural sweetness of flowers blended with a variety of vanillas. Thereís a fatty tuberose thatís mercifully restrained, a touch of jasmine (I think), and a series of ionone iris notes. The overall effect is that of a warm, semi-sweet, lactonic, floral bubble. Thereís not much that's original or unique about it, and it doesnít smell that modern, but itís truly well-done from start to finish, and ďwell-done" can overrule innovation in a heartbeat. Iíve personally found this line to be questionable for the most part, but I'd say that Oil Fiction is one of their better offerings so far. With that said, it seems a bit like a base in that thereís not a lot of movement in it. It performs like a base as well, going on for hour after hour. Ultimately, itís not quite my style, but for a buttery, rounded semi-sweet floral scent, itís as solid as they get. The nameís a bit of a mystery however, and the price is kind of insane.

    05th March, 2015

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    Oeillet Bengale by Aedes de Venustas

    Iím not sure whatís going on with this. It smells, to me, like an elaborate incense fragrance that the perfumer grew frustrated with but they released it anyway; itís super disorganized and confused. It reminds me a little of Jubilation XXV with the sound turned way down. Itís floral, fruity, frilly, slightly creamy, perhaps a little spicy, yet it somehow manages to not smell like much of anything in particular except something from the past. Compared to the bitter blast of AdV's first release (the rhubarb one), I canít help but wonder if the line has any cohesion at all. Itís not a hideous scent, but it doesnít have much in the way of character. A placid, slightly creamy/floral incense that wonít offend, but wonít turn heads either. It lasts well, but that just adds to the confusion, really.

    05th March, 2015

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    The Dark Heart of Old Havana by 4160 Tuesdays

    A psychotically sweet syrupy citrus scent. Thereís little in the way of tobacco, but I detect a generous serving of a pencil eraser note thatís as weirdly pleasing as the pencil eraser note in Tokyo Milkís Dead Sexy (itís a kind of wood thatís doing this ó mahogany?). I could see this scent working as a comfort scent because itís big and fuzzy, but Iím not sure itíd be polite to wear it in close proximity to others as I imagine itíd cause headaches. Fun, playful, perhaps not the most believable perfume as far as an environment goes (not that Iíve been to Havana, but I canít imagine anywhere smells this sweet) ó itís certainly not unpleasant, but youíll need to have your dentist on speed dial if youíre going to wear this one often.

    05th March, 2015

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    Nuit Rouge by Antonio Alessandria

    Sweetened rhubarb up-top with saffron and leather beneath, this thing gets your attention. It smells a little like a mashup of the first Aedes scent crossed with something like Matriarchís Blackbird. Thereís a druggy kind of narcotic quality to it that lends it more personality than the Aedes, but it still lacks character in the bigger picture as it just smells too much like other things. Not awful, but hardly memorableóitís a bit of an olfactory identity crisis.

    05th March, 2015

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    Musc Nomade by Annick Goutal

    As a semi-sweet booze and currant scent with Ribena aspirations, Musc Nomade starts big and almost gourmand before settling into low-level powdery hum of a musk that desiccates over time. Once itís calmed down, a cushion-like effect takes over and the scent feels like the olfactory equivalent of an alpaca blanket. Itís soft and quite powdery but with enough berry leaf remaining to anchor it as interesting. But as a musk fragrance, itís PG-rated ó disappointingly so.

    05th March, 2015

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    Land of Warriors by The Vagabond Prince

    A strange, vaguely unpleasant opening ó a sort of fruity, leafy kind of thing with a trace of leather somewhere in the distance. It actually smells a little automotive with some vegetal facets, which is just weird. It also smells more than a tad dated ó almost like a late-Ď80s mainstream fragrance. But what does intrigue me about it is that for as oddly familiar as it smells (Drakkar Noir? Fahrenheit?), the path it takes to get there seems far less conventional. Thereís a prominent watery effect in it ó like calone without the searing pain. So, although I find it sort of ghastly, for people who love the retro effects of the kind of butch masculines you can find at TJ Maxx, Land of Warriors has some curious appeal to it.

    05th March, 2015

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    Les Jeux sont Faits by Jovoy

    Warm, spicy, resinous, and a tad vegetal, this is a dark, wood-driven perfume with an underlying sweetness to it. A hefty labdanum is topped by candied florals, and the spice rack was raided hard to make this one as thereís cinnamon, nutmeg, clove, and all kinds of stuff in it. Itís slightly camphorous and a little metallic, but overall itís a warm, dark woody scent with a deep, resinous, rooty feel. It does, however, take a suspiciously sweet turn about 30 minutes in that lowers its IQ a few notches. Not my style, but itís still one of the better scents on offer from this somewhat sketchy line.

    05th March, 2015

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    Fields of Rubus by Kerosene

    Sweet, jammy, berries, mainly. Thereís some funky note in there, but for the most part, it smells like a waxy fruit preserve ó like a sort of berry sandwich spread. It scratches the back of your throat a little, so Iíll take a stab and say that itís tobacco of some kind. In fact, the longer itís on my skin, the more it becomes an oily tobacco with sweet, fruity tints. Itís very thick and goopy-smelling ó certainly not a scent for people who enjoy subtle nuance as it hits you like a wall. After 30 minutes or so, itís basically a cigar dipped in marmalade. Because itís so heavy, I suspect heís using some nice naturals, but it certainly weighs the scent down. Syrupy, sticky, murky, inarticulate fruit tobacco sums it up.

    05th March, 2015

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    Pathetique by O'Driý

    I love some of the older OíDriu scents, and I can appreciate the populist direction-shift heís taken, but this oneís not up to much. Itís a woody, balmy, chocolate scent that feels like less substantial version of Ore. There are medicinal facets that sneak through, and something distinctly grassy ó which serves as an odd contrast to the cocoa (which dominates) ó but thatís really all there is to it. It dries down to a semi-mossy, vetiver affair that smells a tad chlorinated. And somehow (not sure how), it lasts for an insane amount of time. Overall, it reminds me of those industrial hot cocoa packets you sometimes see by a water-coolers ó a sort of not-quite-cocoa kind of effect. So, unless youíre die-hard OíDriu fan (which is understandable given his range), or youíre after a strange, medicinal, almost metallic cocoa, Iíd skip this one and maintain hope that he returns to what he does best ó apothecary-style animalic stinkers. Characterful, but a far cry from his best work.

    05th March, 2015

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    Myrrh Casati by Mona di Orio

    Myrrh can either go very, very right for me or very, very wrong. For some reason, this one doesnít settle in either camp as it doesnít come across as overly myrrh-driven at all. In fact, itís more of a medicinal benzoin, but "Benzoin Casati" doesnít have quite the same ring to it. Thereís vanilla, saffron, anise, myrrh (obv), and other resins, and theyíre linked in a way that leans a tad pot pourri. However, myrrh tends to suggest something liturgical / spiritual, yet this is really more of a sweet, demure kind of thing. Picture a more refined, classic version of Armaniís Myrrh Imperiale with the volume reduced by about 75%, and youíll be in the right territory. Pleasant, balanced, but a bit dull compared to the scents that Mona herself was producing.

    05th March, 2015

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    Tepidarium by Calť

    Itís like someone spiked the popsicles! A juicey orange note with a slight lactonic feel to begin that turns tropical soon after. A coconut milk effect emerges, and it starts to smell more and more like sun tan lotion, only with oodles of booze involved. It does have noticeable Malibu vibe to it despite the orange popsicle effect trying to convince you that itís less wasted than it really is. Overall, the accords are complimentary, and the scent successfully sidesteps air freshener associations that are all too common in these kind of perfumes. You have to really like tropical and boozy aesthetics to pull this off, though, as itís a bit like Pina Colada hour at the Betty Ford Clinic.

    05th March, 2015

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    Nero by Mazzolari

    Although Aventus doesnít have the monopoly on pineapple, itís hard not to think of it when you smell another pineapple perfume. Sometimes thereís a large enough gap to strike a distance between them, but itís rare. Mazzolari Nero is heavy on the pineapple and the berry notes, and as the result, it smells like a marginally fruitier take on Aventus. Itís bright and sweet with a slightly scratchy synthetic base, and overall it smells like tropical smoothie sans dairy. Even if parallels could be drawn with scents beyond Aventus (itíd be a stretch), it just doesnít smell very good, and I see no point in it existing. Thankfully, it doesn't perform well and becomes a limp vetiver within an hour. Merciful, really.

    05th March, 2015

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    Elena by Mazzolari

    This is a ludicrously hushed white floral of no notable pedigree. Thereís a tiny glimpse of sweetness, but for the most part, itís a glassy, honeyed blossom kind of thing that's barely perceptible. A vanillic undercurrent simulates ambergris, but even after sloshing it lavishly (and dramatically) onto my skin, thatís really the only thing I can detect. Silken . . . sheer . . . diaphanous . . . I could keep rolling these kind of fetching descriptors off and itíd be apt, but the truth is, Elena barely smells of anything at all.

    05th March, 2015

    Buzzlepuff's avatar

    United States United States

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    Eau Plurielle by Diptyque

    One of the most successful Diptyque creations is the incredibly earthy green and rejuvenating rose of L'Ombre Dans L' Eau eau de parfum. The magical notes are black currant leaves and Bulgarian Rose. Emulating this successful combination that works so well is Eau Plurielle which combines Turkish Roses with "ivy" followed by light musk and woods. Roses and green leaves is a classic combination and Diptyque seems to have mastered it. Eau Plurielle is sold in large 200 ml. bottle with a long stroke spray mechanism makes up for this juices lighter formulation by giving a very full coverage from the bottle. This spray puts out easily twice what I would get from my normal bottles but this excess is needed to add intensity that is needed whether it is used in a room or on the skin. Since L'Ombre Dans L' Eau is my favorite Diptyque I jumped for Eau Plurielle and I don't regret the purchase at all. There is something about the combination of green leaves and roses that makes a completed circle of scent satisfaction. Might need a backup bottle. Nicely done Diptyque!

    05th March, 2015

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    Nevermore by Frapin

    This is a super-fizzy aldehyde with some bitter, citrus-like notes upfront. Itís definitely rose at its core, but itís doing more than what you might expect from a standard rose scent. Thereís a psychedelic feel to itóa shimmery kind of prismatic hazeóbut the opening is the most gripping part for me: itís extraordinarily vibrantóperhaps to the point of sillinessóbut after that, it does become a bit mediocre. The aldehydes go flat; the rose just sort of hangs there, and a schlocky synth-wood base sheepishly emerges.

    The Poe reference is a tad confounding though as itís far more of a bright, modern thing than what the name infers. Itís certainly not a dark rose in the way that Gotham is a dark rose, and, in fact, Iíd be more inclined to describe it as a dayglo affair. It reminds me a little bit of Malleís Portrait of a Lady with an even more amped-up opening (yes, really). It smells like what Iíd imagine it would feel like to be dressed head-to-toe in glow sticks or perhaps have LED lasers blasting out of your skin. A great Warheads-style fizzy opening followed by a standard-fare chemical cedar.

    04th March, 2015 (Last Edited: 05th March, 2015)

    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Givrine by E.Coudray

    E. Coudray Givrine is a graceful musky floral with a final ordinary fruity soapiness with traces of powder. The scent, before unfolding in a really few time its musky soapiness, opens with a promising aldehydic accord of watery flowers, violet leaves, watermelon (may be red berries) and musk. The violet leaves-watermelon-lily of the valley accord is dominant (and ostensibly berrish) and It seems to detect a touch of cardamom combined with "liquid"-dusty frankincense and woods in a way to provide a sort of woodsy fluidity associated with the upcoming "cosmetical" soapy-floral vibe (in a way conjuring me more than vaguely the same vibe I've felt in the discontinued Armani Onde Mystere). I find this fragrance kind of romantic, subtle and dreamy but the general texture is not so articulated and stable (with its final little collapse towards a pale linearity) to make it deserving a full thumbs up. If you are looking for such a type of graceful (violet leaves veined) classic floral chypre I suggest the great Floris Royal Arms Diamond Edition.

    04th March, 2015 (Last Edited: 05th March, 2015)

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    Intense Tiare by Montale

    Iím not a fan of Montaleís assembly line approach to perfume (any company that puts out 50+ ďoud"-variants canít be very serious about what they release). However, the line gets my attention when they manage to do something that deviates from their standard agar/rose/sandalwood bombs. This one smells like suntan lotion on meth, and the ďintenseĒ is no lie as this stuff is obnoxiously strong. Itís supposed to be white florals and coconut, I assume, but it smells more like a spill at the Bond No. 9 counter combined with several bottles of sugary shampoo. This is the kind of scent that was popular in the Ď80s ó the sort of thing that people would bathe in, gassing out entire floors of office buildings to make a statement. Itís milky, tropical, and smells like some of the fancier shampoos at the drug store. If it were a quarter of the volume, itíd be fit to wear in public, but as it stands, itís migraine material for anyone who comes into contact with it.

    04th March, 2015

    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Tabu by Dana

    Dana Tabu strikes us by soon for its (immediately detectable) combination of honeyed jasmine, tuberose (not listed), orange blossoms, vetiver, patchouli, sandalwood, resins, sweet spices (cinnamon for sure) and civet, overall combined in order to project in its background something more obscure (something marvellously spicy, resinous, smoky, earthy and "greedy"), namely the hidden core of this impalpable gem. The note of civet is waving for not more than five minutes as a sort of "stale flowerpot's water feel". Absolutely fleeting the aroma on skin, Tabu lasts infact not more than forthy minutes on my wrist, fading quickly in to a vague linear whiff of honeyed-musky boise jasmine and balmy-spicy sandalwood (something in the same clan with Rochas Absolu and CK Obsession). A pity, really, all that initial marvellous complexity vanished in a flash.

    04th March, 2015

    SexySmells's avatar

    United States United States

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    Etienne Aigner by Etienne Aigner

    Bergamot, Lemon, Nutmeg, Sage, Galbanum, Marjoram

    Jasmin, Geranium, Patchouli, Vetiver, Sandalwood, Orris root

    Leather, Amber, Tonka bean, Moss and Vanilla

    This is a super smooth leather chypre from 1975. The 70's and 80's conjure up images of loud music, big hair and fragrances that matched this mentality of excess . Not so with Aigner #1.

    Aigner's first foray opens with an alcoholic blast of spicy citrus that leans green. This is one smooth accord. It's like velvet blanketing the skin and in a minute, the leather is already surging up and into the drivers seat.

    The spices are wonderful in this fragrance. It may be the best blending of them that I've encountered in a masculine and NO transition of this fragrance is ever rude or boisterous. The overall blending is a marvel and after all these years, I am still in awe. None of the implemented notes usurps the other, with ( of course ) the exception of leather.

    So, is the leather a nice rendition ? No, it's a fabulous leather aroma and to say it's nice doesn't do it justice. It's better than nice and equal to the best leather-dominant niche you'll come across. The magic here is in the pre-set volume of all the active notes hovering just below the supple leather.


    The base unfolds very quietly. The galbanum from the top and moss in the base enable the green aura to continue through the life of the scent. They are more dominant than the oriental notes. In summary, Aigner No.1 is a truly underrated leather scent that showcases well executed spices, green notes, earthy tones and of course, the leather. The sillage is acceptable and longevity is about 4 hours on me before evolving into a skin scent.

    Both of my thumbs are raised for this forgotten leather masculine from Etienne Aigner.

    04th March, 2015

    SexySmells's avatar

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    Super Fragrance for Men by Etienne Aigner

    Bergamot, Clary Sage, Galbanum, Lemon, Tarragon
    Cedar, Jasmine, Orris Root, Patchouli, Rose, Sandalwood, Hay
    Amber, Moss, Musk, Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Costus

    Etienne Aigner's 1978 release of Super Fragrance for Men is a Super unknown. It's amusing because of not only the chosen name for the scent, but that it's so substantial, so good and only minimal perfumistos have smelled it; let alone heard of it. I consider myself fortunate to have finally obtained this in 2009. Nothing ever made ( that I have come across so far ) smells remotely similar.

    I actually had a woman grab me at a Christmas party in 2010 and whisper in my ear as she hugged me. "You smell sooooooo good" !!!! I enjoyed the compliment from this attractive party guest and yes, I smelled damn good. After all, I was wearing Super Fragrance for Men.

    Super Fragrance for Men is a warm and bitter masculine that is dense from the initial spray. The overall tone of is an herbal one, but there's quite a bit more going on than herbs. The combination of Cedar oil, hay and the spices culminate in an atmospheric accord that's tepid and poignant.

    Super Fragrance is a strong fragrance, but not deceptively so. Body heat most assuredly kicks this up a notch or two. The concentrations of notes used here are a thing of the past and you can smell the intent the perfumer had for this creation. This was really made to be "Super".

    I can imagine Sean Connery wearing this as James Bond and entering a room with Super Fragrance radiating from his skin. You would smell spicy cedar that had been fermenting under a pile of hay. Hints of flowers at an entry level state of decay that must have surely been thrown on top of this heap.

    Within an hour or a little less, a well integrated musk appears and the woodiness morphs from gritty to old world elegant. The neat trick about Super Fragrance is that it exudes a busy attitude with the least possible effort. It really is like Bond at the top of his game. Once the drydown commences, the calming oriental notes manifest incrementally. Super France is in no hurry. It's very confident and self assured. In essence, it truly is Super and there's no other way to describe it.

    Sillage is magnificent and longevity is as satisfying as you can get. Would Bond leave one of his female cohorts wanting? I should think not. Big thumbs up from SS for Aigner's Super Fragrance for Men.

    04th March, 2015

    SexySmells's avatar

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    Free Life by Etienne Aigner

    Bergamot, Sage, Nutmeg, Lavender, Rosewood.
    Cedar, Geranium, Jasmine, Muguet, Patchouli, Rose.
    Amber, Sandalwood, Tonka Bean, Vanilla.

    I was compelled today to revisit Etienne Aigner's 1987 release of Free Life. As of late, I've been wearing some of the darker, designer ouds like Ferrari and that prompted me to dig out the bottle of Free Life. I definitely don't wear Free Life enough, but that is due to the amount of fragrance choices I have. Owning many bottles is a two edged sword.

    Free Life does not smell like the designer ouds I have, but it wears like they do. It is dense, semi dark and a rather serious scent. This isn't a somber fragrance, but it surely isn't frivolous or lighthearted. They certainly don't create masculines anymore using this template, so anytime I do wear Free Life, I thoroughly enjoy it.

    One of things I like is the tuning of Rosewood, Lavender and Tonka. There's a somewhat moist quality present and the suggestion of licorice. Normally, I'll experience that through Anise or Tarragon. In Free Life, it's accomplished through combinations.

    There's quite a bit going on in Free Life, yet it smells as if it's devoid of transitions until the extended drydown. The Spice, Woods, Floral, Earth and Oriental accents seem welded together from the onset. Because of the overall character this scent takes on, it appears to be more suited for cool to cold temperatures. It's extremely full bodied, yet doesn't cut a swath while entering a room immediately after application. The totality of Free Life affords the wearer the ability to smell extremely different, masculine and could almost pass itself off as something creative Jacques Bogart would release today. Free Life isn't synthetic smelling nor does it possess a chemical vibe. This has gravitas, but all fragrances that have this quality are always going to be off putting to some.

    I believe Free Life is classified as a Woody Amber, but the Oriental finish is very enjoyable and long lasting. I've worn this scent in warm and hot temperatures, but at least for me, it performs best in the winter temps. You may have a different opinion.

    Free Life is yet another Etienne Aigner creation that got glossed over since its release in 1987. To be honest, I can understand that situation since Aigner didn't exactly have the best ad and marketing campaigns in a time period where bigger, bolder and outlandish weren't considered polarizing.

    Sillage is moderate, yet substantial and full bodied. Longevity is approximately 5-6 hours on my skin with normal sprays. The personal space hang time is just as long or longer. You can smell this the next day with no problem. Thumbs up from SS for Etienne Aigner's Free Life and as always, a sample wear if highly recommended. ( if possible ).

    04th March, 2015

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    Monsieur by HuitiŤme Art

    This line has been a consistent let-down for me, and Monsieur is no different. This scent is clearly seeking to modernize a dated aesthetic ó that of an Ď80s masculine. To a degree, itís successful, but the end result isnít very cohesive.

    Thereís a lot going on here, but whatís most dominant is myrrh rendered slightly gourmand and caramelic. Thereís a dirty patchouli in it, and thereís a fair amount of saffron-esque spice to produce a warming effect. Aside from that, itís resins and unspecified synth woods ó specifically cedar, and even more specifically, a ghastly amount of Iso E.

    Thereís nothing truly hideous about it, but it doesnít really do anything to elevate itself beyond other warm, semi-sweet synthetic wood scents. In fact, I get a negative space-effect from it in that I could imagine it with a great rum note, or even a good, tarry smoke component, but what that signals for me is that this scent is lacking any real flare of its own. Iím underwhelmed by Monsieur, but at least itís consistent as I find the whole collection to be underwhelming. If youíre looking to see what Guillaume can do, skip Huitieme Art and Phaedon, and just stick with Parfumerie Generale instead as thatís where all his solid ideas seem to end up.

    04th March, 2015

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    Black Aoud by Montale

    Montaleís entire existence is basically structured upon their ability to create a hundred or so variants of their house aesthetic ó a crass take on Eastern perfumes that are well balanced, but tend to smell dodgy. The archetype for their success seems to be built on a blueprint that sits somewhere between White and Black Aoud. Black Aoud plays the standard Montale hand of rubbery saffron, spices, a woody-ambery base, and ďrose," but in Black Aoud the focus in shifted more toward the rose that dominates much of the scent. This one is, first and foremost, and bitter rose. Itís green and a bit stemmy, and itís undercut by saffron and spice. And thatís really all Black Aoud is. The usual woody base is there, cranked up to comedic levels, and itís synthetic as all hell. Like the rest of Montaleís Aoud scents, thereís no oud in it ó just a synthetic replacer that does the job perfectly well, but doesnít smell much like oud. Itís really the model for everything that Montale does: vulgar and trashy, but dramatic, characterful, and somehow likable. It might smell cartoonish, and itíd be hard to pull it off tastefully (extremely low doses?), but it does what it sets out to do and makes no apologies along the way. Itís sort of the olfactory equivalent of standing in the middle of a public space and screaming ďLook at me! Look at me! Everybody look at me!Ē over and over. You have to love rose to enjoy this oneówell, rose chemicals at least.

    04th March, 2015

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    L'Homme Infini by Divine

    A semi-modern vetiver/bergamot with clean, wooden edges and a peppery opening. Itís a tad bitter up top, but it softens fast into something that resembles a textbook modern masculine affair. It dries into an even more run-of-the-mill chemical base, but itís all nicely smoothed over and well presented. Thereís a touch of earthiness to it, but it basically smells like your standard department store scent, only a touch more refined. Derivative, but accomplished. Well suited for the layman, but aficionados have seen it all before.

    04th March, 2015

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    Daisy by Marc Jacobs

    A legitimately pleasant buttery, waxy floral that spawned a criminal amount of shit flankers. The original is fairly accomplished although itís quite linear and simplistic. Itís a merger of pastels, ďsoft,Ē ďyellow,Ē and ďgreenĒ if that makes any sense ó a light, rich floral with no discernible sweetness and just a slight ting of fruit. Given the circumstances (where itís sold and who itís sold to), thereís nothing nose-searing about it ó itís a smooth, easy to wear kind of perfume. It makes no statement whatsoever though, so I canít help but think it should be approached more like a body product of some kind ó a sort of lingering effect more than a distinctive perfume. Itís one of the more accomplished mall-scents scents out there, but in the larger context of perfume, itís a bit of an olfactory lobotomy. Leave your brain by the door.

    04th March, 2015

    SexySmells's avatar

    United States United States

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    Statement by Etienne Aigner

    ergamot, Geranium, Green Note, Lavender, Lemon, Neroli.
    Coriander, Fruit Note, Geranium, Muguet, Mace.
    Amber, Cedar, Leather, Musk, Oakmoss, Styrax.

    Etienne Aigner. I love saying that name. Every time I utter it, I use the best accent and emphasis that I can muster. Is that stupid? Of course it is........yet I will continue to do it anyway...............

    This 1994 masculine opens with a slightly sharp accord of citrus, geranium and fruit. The bergamot and neroli aren't exactly on the sour side, but it's somewhat astringent the first few minutes. The top also has an aromatic quality to it.

    The fruit note, although very noticeable, isn't a well defined variation. To me, it smells like a cross between pear and apple. Although blurred, it integrates quickly with the citrus and the result is a striking accord with presence.

    Once the heart accord is born, Statement feels a bit more settled. There's a woodiness appearing along with some earth tones and spice. Statement is rather dense and leans slightly sweet, yet never tilts too green.

    The one heart note I don't experience is Muguet, but others may detect it. The fruit quality remains on me for the life of the scent and seems to interact well with the geranium and coriander. The spicy aspect is well played and simply accents Statement. The gravity of the top and heart accords remind me of Ricci Club Haute for effect as opposed to aroma.

    The base transpires once the projection of Statement has dissipated greatly. It's still substantial, but much closer to the skin. It retains its heaviness and the introduction of the base is like sleight of hand. It arrives unawares.

    A musk slowly inserts itself in the transition and along with it comes a subtle resin. Nothing heralds the base and drydown of Statement. You simply realize it's upon you, yet it's not drastically different from the heart accord. A soft, leathery wood evolves in conjunction with the musk and brings Statement to its closing argument.

    Sillage may be considered strong at first, but becomes more acceptable after 10 minutes or so. Longevity is 8 hours plus on me. Thumbs up once again for one of my favorite designer houses. A sample wear is recommended since Statement is an amplified fragrance and just a bit unconventional.

    04th March, 2015

    SexySmells's avatar

    United States United States

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    Silver by Etienne Aigner

    Basil, Bergamot, Green Notes, Juniper Berry, Lemon.
    Carnation, Cedar, Cinnamon, Jasmine, Patchouli, Pine Needle.
    Castoreum, Labdanum, Leather, Moss and Musk.

    1984 brought us yet another terrific and underrated masculine. Etienne Aigner's Silver is ( of course ) under the radar and mostly disregarded by the fragrance community at large. I have no answers for this other than possibly bad timing and marketing mistakes. It could also be that Silver is sophisticated and long lasting without the bombastic qualities that were inherent in many releases of that particular time period. It may have slipped by unnoticed.

    Silver opens as an extremely smooth ( and I mean smooth ) rendition of herbs and dominant basil set atop a light citric accord. It leans green like you would expect, but this is not a conventional aroma of green. This has a low center of gravity and within a minute or two, an elegant moss begins its journey from the base to incorporate itself into the opening.

    Silver is so well blended and sans any edges that you almost forget you're wearing it. It's like a comfortable shirt you wear when you want to feel like you're wearing nothing at all. Please don't misconstrue that as declaring Silver to be a skin scent. Its projection is adequate and possesses a depth that is missing in today's releases.

    If it were possible for a White Knight to have worn fragrance, Silver would be completely appropriate to smell emanating from his person. The slightly aromatic and earthy tones of forest and field. The subtle animalic whiffs of saddle viscosity mingling with mossy wood are an indication of what Silver is all about.

    The essence of this sleeper is a mixture of suave and ruggedness. Silver's core is one of the better renditions of basil you will ever come across and it's surrounded by leathery moss. Sure, there are other contributors here, but by staying back like they do, they allow these three to take the reigns and the result is a classy masculine fragrance. Etienne's Silver gets no props and I want to change that.

    Sillage is acceptable and longevity is 6 hours on my skin. Silver may not be white, but he still feels like a Knight to me. Big thumbs up from SS for yet another worthy Aigner release.

    04th March, 2015

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