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    Dr Mario's avatar



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    Hermèssence Ambre Narguilé by Hermès

    I like this scent. It has good longevity, moderate sillage... Sllightly richer of the Hermessence fragrances I have tried (Vetiver Tonka, Santal Massoia, Amber Narguile). A soft gentle gourmand IMO.

    My wife upon smelling this fragrance on my wrist described it as a bit fruity, and said that it instantly reminded her of the smell of a strawberry shortcake doll she had as a child, that she would squeeze its belly and it would puff out air (a kiss) in her face. So, take that for what it is.

    I find this fragrance slightly more feminine than masculine, but certainly not unwearable by a man. A beautiful scent.

    08th April, 2015

    scentsitivity's avatar

    United States United States

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    Freetrapper by D.S. & Durga

    Smells like fur and incense.

    08th April, 2015

    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Lôtree by Santi Burgas

    Amazing minimalist (more than vaguely a la Wonderwood Comme des Garcons in style) musky combination of fresh fluidy bamboo and woods (high quality cedarwood, agarwood and sandalwood). "Pastel" green is the colour of the aromatic liquid. The sparkling freshness from bamboo counteracts the woody natural dryness exuding from the heavy woods while the muskiness soothens the amalgam providing a "spongy" final bed really silvan, mossy and enchanted. Receding the woods dry intensity the general final atmosphere is hightly musky and wet, as a walk across an enchanted forest full of ponds, elfs and faeries. I suppose a touch of cypress resin is included in the blend while seems to detect (at least ostensibly in effects) a touch of radiant ginger and cardamom. The spicy aqueous freshness from bamboo (playing the "watery" role that in CdG Wonderwood was played by cardamom) provides a wonderfully refreshing touch of evocative exoticism (far memories, far lands). Lotree is one of the most realistically boise concoctions ever experienced which strikes me for the hyper true naturalness of the raw materials and for the harmonious grace in which they are "assembled" by Blanca Dalmau in cooperation with Santi Burgas. Recommended.

    08th April, 2015

    Dane's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Armani Privé Oud Royal by Giorgio Armani

    How I wish I owned this!

    Through my varied trials of oud-centric fragrances, this is probably my favourite. As to its legitimacy of any actual oud content, I cannot say, but it doesn't matter, it's so dark and smooth that it goes beyond ingredient quality/quantity.

    Beautifully orchestrated, but too expensive, especially since Armani did away with the beautiful wooden bottles.

    Update - broke down and bought a bottle. Couldn't resist.

    07th April, 2015 (Last Edited: 27th April, 2015)

    clamnole's avatar

    United States United States

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    Aqua pour Homme Marine by Bulgari

    A little lemon, a little ocean salt and a little rotting fish.

    The initial spray was lemon water and ocean salt with a faint brine and floral lurking underneath. Not really very pleasant, but not terrible and somewhat fresh. As the lemon water fades the brine water and floral come forward and ruins everything. It goes from fresh to foul pretty fast. The brine water is not salty, but a rotting seaweed or almost fishy smell and there's a synthetic floral note competing with it. After about two hours, I washed it off.

    07th April, 2015 (Last Edited: 16th April, 2015)

    flathorn's avatar

    United States United States

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    De Profundis by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    I tried this a year ago, and it came across as sober, dry and somewhat gray. I retried it, and it is very nice this time, but pretty different than last year. I read the reviews - De Profundis sounds like a real shape-shifter.
    This time it was light floriental, not bright, but an interesting combination of uncommon flowers that end up having the resonance of a subdued gathering of sweetness, remembrance and memory. I can see its association with funerals. These florals have the feel of notes in quiet conversation. Of shared reminiscence. And hopefulness. Is that the chrysanthemum? A vague undercurrent of smooth incense gives this fragrance a peace and acceptance.
    I'm going to have to try a decant and see if it won't be as variable as it seems right now. At this point I really like it. It has the potential because of its midtone quality and careful modulation and introspection, of being a versatile fragrance that will fit in well with a life.
    The sample I tried this time is the remainder from last year's sampling. Is it possible this fragrance improves with aging?

    07th April, 2015 (Last Edited: 10th April, 2015)

    clamnole's avatar

    United States United States

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    Tommy Bahama for Him by Tommy Bahama

    Opening reminds me of Polo Black or Double Black. A sickly sweet fruit combination but with melon rather than mango and TB adds a tropical spice. There's something to this that is likeable, but it wouldn't be anything I'd wear beyond a summer vacation or picnic dinner. It does have the TB Caribbean vibe, but the fruit is way too sweet to my liking and it's not very versatile IMO.

    07th April, 2015 (Last Edited: 08th April, 2015)

    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Lôence by Santi Burgas

    If you are on the earthy-boise and realistically sacramental resins there is no stuff matching this juice around guys. Santi Burgas Loence is a majestic vegetal woody-incensey cocktail combining (as well as accurately reported by Fragrantica) in a single composition three different types of frankincense (Oman, India, Somalia), perfectly associated, in a wonderfully liturgical symphonic accord, with woods (cashmere, patchouli, cedarwood), ginger and juniper berries. No floral, leathery, or sweet patterns in the mix to hamper or deflect the amazing frankincense's smouldering vorticose run, despite the final outcome smells as silky to make us guessing about a touch of included suede. The note of ginger berries (connected with fresh woodsy juniper and fir resins/birch tar) provides by soon aromatic fruity mountainous freshness (with a more than vague dusty mintiness connecting in my mind this masterwork to the equally brilliant- but more properly dry-turpentinic than smoothly incensey- Durbano Black Tourmaline). May be minimal fruity notes and balsams (red berries, opoponax??) enhance the roundness of the sacramental dust which finally appears immensely smooth, silky, balsamic, intellectual, profound, almost edible (but at same time surprisingly versatile and wearable). Probably forest resins are included in the mix since all the perfumed cloud seems permeated by a woodsy-boise balsamic aura. Rarely I've tested on skin such a superb quality in the resinous raw materials and it of course has turned Loence to jump on my "top five incensey concoctions" stage. I detect an incredibly realistic and slightly humid earthy undertone probably provided by a precious rooty "un-hippie" patchouly connected with ginger and further earthy-rooty elements from the wondeful nature (possibly berries, leaves, herbs, vetiver?). There is some smokiness around (from the woods I suppose) but it is never overwelming or steaming. I have no more words to add, just that my first approach with the Santi Burgas creations could not be more "fantastically shocking". Wooden orthodox Cathedrals lost in the cloudy and silent Russian steppe come more than vaguely on mind in a while. This fragrance is furthermore supposed to play as bottom layer for other fragrances of the Burgas line (and not only). Absolutely recommended. Two thumbs up.

    07th April, 2015 (Last Edited: 08th April, 2015)

    clamnole's avatar

    United States United States

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    Armani Code / Black Code by Giorgio Armani

    Armani Code or Code Black is a very nice fragrance of a common designer house theme using spiced citrus over woods and vanilla. This fragrance is noticeably popular with the younger men that I work with. In fact, they each seem to prefer it to all other scents about 4 of the 5 days in a work week.

    Nothing wrong with wearing what you like, but why smell exactly like every other 30 yr old male in your office building?

    Neutral for me because it's worn me out.

    07th April, 2015 (Last Edited: 08th April, 2015)

    sjohnjay's avatar

    United States United States

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    Eau des Baux by L'Occitane

    Let's keep this short, sweet, and highly unoriginal-
    This is nothing more, and nothing less than a poor man's (smart man's) Tobacco Vanille.
    That is all.

    07th April, 2015

    VanillaIris's avatar

    United States United States

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    A*Men / Angel Men by Thierry Mugler

    Okay, in my whole life.... I've never smelled anything this awful. The only thing that tops this in terms of how vile it is, is Pure Malt. Honestly, Secretions Magnifiques smells better than this! A*Men and Pure Malt, both smell the same. They smell like a cat urine. Very ammonia scented. On top of that, its smokey and sweet. Just disgusting. If I was next to any man wearing this, i'd probably run the other way. Just my opinion though. Apparently, tons of people like this... I just.... I can't .... I just can't.

    07th April, 2015

    Oviatt's avatar

    United States United States

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    Royall Bay Rhum by Royall Lyme of Bermuda

    This is among my favorite bay rums, along with St. John's and DR Harris's versions. Floris used to do a great one back in the day, but sadly no more. Royall Bay Rhum is slightly more medicinal than others, with a spicy clove note and a real bite to it, especially as the clove takes over in the dry down. This is an absolute classic from a time when men were men and women appreciated that fact. I am a sucker for packaging done right and with its antique bottles, pewter tops and vintage paper wrapping, this could have gone seriously wrong, but in the end I think that it is a charming nod to the past and strangely timeless. I always smile when I see the bottles in fine traditional stores like Brooks Brothers and Orvis. Whether it is worn with a tweed jacket and Shetland sweater or with cool linens, this is a bracing, masculine, classic scent.

    07th April, 2015

    VanillaIris's avatar

    United States United States

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    Sublime Vanille by Creed

    This is my favorite fragrance of all time. It smells like pure Vanilla, with a small hint of Lemon. It does NOT smell like Lemon cream pie. (Less like Chanel Allure Homme Edition Blanche, More like a bottle of Vanilla extract) It literally smells like pure Vanilla. Then, it takes on a lemony citrus smell (A light one) and dries down into a scent that smells like a sugar cookie to me. If you ask me, this is Vanilla done perfectly. Common gripes with this fragrance, are that it is overly simplistic, And it is. If you want a sexy, boozy, intense, and complex Vanilla fragrance, this isn't for you. This is for someone who likes Vanilla for Vanilla's sake, and wants a tad of lemon in it. It is a combination of Vanilla Bourbon (Not very boozy smelling though) Tahitian Vanilla, Tonka bean, Calabrian Lemon, Bergamot and Musk. The Citrus in here is always behind the Vanilla though. It does not necessarily combine with the Vanilla, just compliments it from the background. Vanilla is my first favorite note, so I adore this perfume! I wish I still had my bottle. retails for $710 for the flacon, and about $250 for the 1.oz sprayer. I would have opted for the bigger one, if I had the money when I went to Neiman Marcus. Definitely try this.

    07th April, 2015

    VanillaIris's avatar

    United States United States

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    Spring Flower by Creed

    Okay, when I first smelled this in my local Neiman Marcus, I was like "Meh." Nothing too groundbreaking. I went back to it about a year later, to give it a second chance, and fell in love with it. This scent is a fruity floral scent. It is heavy on Peach, Jasmine, Apple, and Rose, when I smell it. I think it should be called "Spring Fruit" though, as on my skin, the flower takes a back seat to the fruit. I bought a 2.5oz for about $290, and it was worth every penny. This bottle comes with an adorable Pink and Green ribbon around the top. It looks great on my vanity, and smells amazing. If this reminded me of anything, it was an old shampoo I used to use, that they don't make anymore. Obviously waaaay nicer though. I would not recommend blind-buying something this expensive though. Definitely sniff it out first. But it truly is sweet <3

    07th April, 2015

    Smurfk's avatar



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    G. Bellini X-Bolt by Lidl

    Don't like this out at all. Gave me head aches from the first use. I have the same problem with Boss Bottled and other heavy sandalwood fragrances. The good part is the price, had no problems throwing it out after one use.

    07th April, 2015

    Dane's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Timbuktu by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    This has definitely changed over the years. I think I actually prefer its current formulation though.

    Vetiver is now the star of the Timbuktu show. The vinegary quality that was once prominent to my nose has diminished, as has the incense.

    Still beautiful, but still not for me.

    07th April, 2015

    randydjack's avatar



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    St Tropez Dispenser by Smell Bent

    The coconut and aloe are undeniably prominent. It smells quite a bit like how you'd smell after a stint at the beach, which is precisely what was promised.

    I'm digging this one as well. Smell Bent seems to match what's on the label/description, which is often not the case with niche scents attempting to emulate their environment.

    I'm considering layering this with Bvgari Aqva Marine and keeping that as my daily go-to for the spring/summer.

    07th April, 2015

    randydjack's avatar



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    Brussels Sprouted by Smell Bent

    I get an interesting chypre with emphasis on the mossy patchouli.

    I'm reminded of the Demeter fragrance "grass," but this one sticks around for a bit longer.

    07th April, 2015

    Nosey49's avatar

    United States United States

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    Never Never Land by Smell Bent

    I'll most likely never give a fragrance and absolute thumbs down. Why? Our individual sense of smell is so varied that I don't feel I can totally dis something another may love.

    For me, Never, Never Land opens with a wet cardboard smell. Then, it becomes...a wet cardboard smell. After several hours I begin detecting a bit of the amber which seems to replace the cardboard with a bit of sweetness.

    Not horrible, but just not for me - at any price.

    07th April, 2015

    Dane's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    La Religieuse by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Meh.

    Sure, there's some jasmine in here, but it's as if someone analyzed what's in real jasmine, took the incomplete list (because a full analysis would be impossible), and used the short-list.

    It smells fine, a tad "functional" smelling (ie - shampoo, etc.), but well done and pleasant.

    I won't be buying a bottle, but I would gladly recommend it to someone who wants to smell nice while not smelling of anything in particular.

    07th April, 2015

    AMAR_420's avatar

    Netherlands Netherlands

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    Fahrenheit by Christian Dior

    Nothing special. A bit spicy, minty and chemical vanilla. Great if you want some attention, would wear in winter.

    07th April, 2015

    Nosey49's avatar

    United States United States

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    Five by Smell Bent

    This is actually pretty good, especially at the price point.

    It opens with a very sweet caramel but the tobacco soon makes an entrance adding a little depth. Later the cedar emerges but ever so slightly - just enough to keep Five from being overly sweet.

    07th April, 2015

    Colin Maillard's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Manakara by Indult

    Manakara opens with a bold, thick, nearly headache-inducing gourmand accord with a powerful, sweetish aldehydic-boozy heart. I can’t recall what this reminds me exactly, but I am sure I ate a cake once which contained something exactly tasting like this (I mean, smelling...). Shortly though, Manakara smells of creamy, resinous, slightly honey boozy-fruity stuff with an almondy aftertaste and a gentle, silky, powdery breeze smelling of rose petals. Nothing juvenile or “teen”, though: rather an “adult”, carnal, complex, even somehow “naughty” gourmand, all played on warm, deep and sensual notes. Litchi, I don’t get the note, not at all; there’s indeed some fruity bitterness at the very heart of Manakara, but well drowned in a thick dark boozy accord - nothing fresh and zesty as you may expect. Not bad overall, surely not what you would expect reading the composition, but still a really classy and unexpectedly dark, lascivious gourmand scent, with a really peculiar powdery-fruity-boozy core. Kind of linear and therefore, given the almost-sickening boldness, kind of annoying soon... but rather interesting nonetheless.

    6,5-7/10

    07th April, 2015

    Colin Maillard's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Old School Bench by MiN New York

    ... and again, as pretty much anything else I’ve tried so far from this brand, another uninspired variation on the same bunch of trendy aromachemicals. A metallic, plastic, heavily synthetic and terribly cheap blend smelling of, again, some of MiN’s apparent favourite clichés: “dry burning wood”, some vetiver, a nondescript cold gassy-ozonic whiff, made thicker and colder by a rather astringent boozy-aldehydic note. All rather dusty, transparent, somehow slightly rusty too. Cacao and patchouli are there too, and that’s the only interesting part for me, as they’re quite cleverly transfigured in a cold, dusty, mono-dimensional look – that’s interesting because they are deprived of their usual “roundness” and thickness, smelling like holograms of the real thing. A really cold sort of white & black representation of chocolate and patchouli. Another thing I admit I may appreciate is how the blend is built, as the result is extremely tight and densely mixed, and you need quite some time to “unravel” the nuances (an operation unworthy the effort, if you ask me). Dry woody-balsamic drydown with a hint of dusty sweetness, still with a massive plastic feel. Aside from the abovementioned couple of interesting features though, and I’m sure this is my problem, I can’t help finding this overall a barely decent albeit rather boring and uninteresting fragrance loaded with “contemporary niche” clichés plenty of other brands have already and quite more creatively exploited in the last 15 years (burning-woody stuff, booziness, cold airiness, “arty contrasts”...). I get there’s room for everyone, but $ 240 for 75 ml of this?

    4,5-5/10

    07th April, 2015

    landshark321's avatar

    United States United States

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    A*Men Ultra Zest by Thierry Mugler

    A surprising direction for the Thierry Mugler A*Men line, Ultra Zest essentially couples an orange-dominant opening and middle with the usual A*Men base of vanilla, coffee, and most of all, patchouli. I liken this pairing to an orange creamsicle mixed with patchouli and a little (less than usual) coffee, still maintaining the A*Men identity but still being on its own citrus island among its harder-hitting brethren.

    The mixture of citrus and the heavy A*Men base notes render Ultra Zest neither a traditional warm weather fragrance, nor, as with essentially the entire A*Men line, a cold weather fragrances. That the base is so heavy puts it in an awkward limbo. If it were lighter, one could reach for it year-round, but as heavy as it is, I would have limited occasion (perhaps a winter day) to opt for this. And while the scent is almost intriguing in an academic sense, I have little practical desire to wear or smell it all day. The grouping of notes is simply too odd, even for a member of an A*Men line that ended up being so revolutionary for this uniqueness.

    Ultra Zest does at least approximate the usual projection and longevity (10+ hours) of the A*Men line, though it's not quite as strong as the other entries in the line. Still, not one I could reach for, let alone buy.

    6 out of 10

    07th April, 2015

    A forest's avatar



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    Dunhill Icon by Dunhill

    I am all the more hard on this fragrance that i had to really hunt it in Paris to finally smell it.

    Well, a total meh. After having read glorious reviews in GQ or on the web, i finally discover a very shy and almost feminine scent, all Orange blossom and honey-ish that wasn't at all what i expected.

    It reminded me of L'artisan Seville à l'aube (though they may not be that close) probably due to that orange blossom presence. I didn't like this one and neither do i like Icon.

    Well at least it's not very expensive and the bottle is nice (though less in real than in picture) but nothing i really cared for.

    07th April, 2015

    Kaern's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Dior Homme Eau for Men by Christian Dior

    Apart from a hint of the original, this is your basic fresh summery citrus offering from Dior. The iris is muted imo.

    It's perfectly wearable and lasts a very long time, but it disappointly crashes into the unoriginal and predictable woody finish.

    It's a bit flat really, which isn't ideal for a summer scent and a little lazy.

    I will wear occasionally though

    07th April, 2015

    JackTwist's avatar

    United States United States

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    Private Collection - Cuir d'Iris by Parfumerie Generale

    I love leathers and I love iris. The name of this scent seemed to be a perfect come hither promise of fulfillment in these two areas. The best iris around is of course Lutens' Iris Silver Mist with its abundance of orris butter, which creates the impression of a soft Italian leather in glove, jacket or purse.

    Cuir d'Iris has a smoky harshness to it (the Oud, Patchouli, and Cedarwood), which reminds one of coal tar. It is not warm, sweet and enveloping as a great leather needs to be. It balances a line between a rough, uncured leather and uncured tobacco leaves. The use of the iris is very restrained but constantly present. A warm leather requires some violet in its make-up, but that is not present here.

    Some of the early "cuir de russie" scents from the late 1890s and the early 1900s had this harsh, smoky, uncured effect, which made sense in those days of unhygienic body odors permeating society on all levels. This doesn't work for me, but it's a perfectly fine scent for those who want their leather this strong.

    07th April, 2015

    rbaker's avatar



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    Tubereuse 3 L’Animale by Histoires de Parfums

    Now there is tuberose ever present in this scent, convincing and quite natural, but it are the variations of accompaniments that makes this a particularly interesting creation. At first fruity-fresh with bergamot and a lychee-kumquat background. Green and herbal components are emerging in the drydown, with impressions of jasmine and autumn fields being conjured up. The base - no surprise here - adds woodsy notes, but an added tobacco sidekick gives the later phases a nice twist.

    This then is a tuberose that keeps my interest awake throughout. Sillage is moderate, the projection good, and I get six hours of longevity. A Histoire worthy of being more than history only.

    07th April, 2015

    Bal a Versailles's avatar



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    Histoire d'Eau by Mauboussin

    Ms Rochambeau finds a hybrid of Mauboussin original and Cuir Amethyste. Perhaps that is what led to Histoire D'Eau Amethyste. It doesn't matter now as Topaze is discontinued and Cuir Amethyste has priced itself off the planet. ( I have two back up bottles of CA)
    Histoire D'Eau Amethyste languishes at the discounters and Christine Nagel, who was Michel Almairac's protege (he of Cuir Amethyste) is now at Hermes. So Histoire is very much in play here, a story of water indeed. I love them all, except HDE Amethyste, which I don't know at all. It's all very Scicilian isn't it? Speak Softly love

    07th April, 2015

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