Latest Fragrance Reviews, Updated Daily

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    Colin Maillard's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Oud by Robert Piguet

    Harsh, metallic, powerful opening of aldehydes, cloves and other spices, Iso E Super, something slightly sweet-resinous and an almost unperceivable note of synthetic oud (which basically smells like just being “created” by the juxtaposition of aldehydes and some chemical rubber-ish aromachemicals). The only “realistic” note I get is the fir balsam, which is quite powerful together with aldehydes and spices. I don’t get why they called it “Oud”, as it’s basically all about aldehydes, spices and fir balsam. After some hours (I mean 6 or 7) you get more clearly what remains of the note of synthetic oud – not that this is an added value, as it feels like: “where the hell have you been?”. Pungent, artificial, incredibly powerful (like many other new Piguet’s): a tacky, clumsy, annoying and remarkably unpleasant bomb of metallic-synthetic stuff which has not the slightest resemblance to oud – and more sadly, to Piguet’s old trademark quality. I’ll not beat a dead horse, but: horrible!

    3/10

    07th December, 2014 (Last Edited: 08th December, 2014)

    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Citiver by Dueto Parfums

    Since the beginning you can easily perceive that Dueto Parfums Citiver is a vetiver prominent juice and a decent (classic in style but with a modern peppery twist) one for sure. The main woody note appears by soon hesperidic, sparkling (yes vibrant), aromatic, fluidy and spicy (but yet ready to slide down towards something smoother, tonka flavoured, musky and exotic a la original Guerlain Vetiver which performs anyway in a brighter, fresher, more mature and classy way). The composition of notes and the aroma itself are pretty similar to the ones of Terre d'Hermes but Citiver is more vetiver oriented, less spicy and finally smoother (and more artificial in texture). The note of violet (supported by spices, amber, dark patchouli and orange) provides a darker intense mild twist. In a second stage the aroma keeps hanging out more vanillic, one-dimensional and synthetic (basically less realistic) and effectively this one is a less satisfactory level of the "short" olfactory trip. I see the Colin Maillard's association with a burnt plastic-like final undertone (which is anyway minimal and tolerable). In the final part I detect a pleasant guaiac wood presence. In its complex the aroma is pleasant but not fully appealing to me.

    07th December, 2014 (Last Edited: 08th December, 2014)

    Andrew_B.'s avatar

    United States United States

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    Cinnamon Toast by Demeter Fragrance Library

    The cinnamon is there but the toast is not. It smells more like a cinnamon wafer of some kind. A muted cinnamon. But I like the way it smells.

    07th December, 2014

    drseid's avatar

    United States United States

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    Paris*LA by A Lab on Fire

    Paris*L.A. opens with an over-sugared, slightly creamy key lime pie accord before transitioning to its early heart. As the composition moves to its early heart the key lime pie stays extremely sweet as an even sweeter cotton candy accord joins in as co-star. As the composition moves through the heart section the key lime pie slowly fades and eventually disappears, leaving the super-sweet cotton candy as sole star, adding in supporting almond. During the late dry-down the almond-laced sugary sweet cotton candy remains, now infused by relatively clean musk through the finish. Projection is excellent, as is longevity at nearly 12 hours on skin.

    There is not much to say about this stuff except that it smells absolutely awful. It is no secret that I dislike most gourmands, but I think I can still appreciate compositions that are skillfully done, and this one just isn't. The best part of the composition is the opening five seconds, as the key lime pie accord is tolerably sweet when not reinforced by the other sweeteners to come (but only just). Once the cotton candy joins in it is a very quick "game over" for this sickeningly sweet confection based concoction. The marketing material released to help sell the composition says that one of the goals was to recreate a Coca Cola accord (I guess this is supposed to be L.A.?), but the Coke is nowhere to be found, leaving only the sugary almond-laced cotton candy confection that must be what the perfumer considers a recreation of a macaron (the other goal of recreating the smell of Paris?). If this is indeed the second goal of the perfumer, the outcome is so synthetic smelling it is completely unbelievable. I am afraid with Paris*L.A. we have a strong contender to make many "Worst Perfumes Released in 2014" lists and I know it will make an appearance on mine. The bottom line is the wholly unsuccessful $110 per 60ml Paris*L.A. represents a new low for the relatively disappointing A Lab On Fire house, earning it an "outrageously bad" 1 to 1.5 stars out of 5 rating and an "avoid at all costs" recommendation unless you love your compositions even sweeter than you can imagine in your wildest dreams (or worst nightmares, in my case). Terrible!

    07th December, 2014

    Colin Maillard's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Fruits of the Musk by Montale

    Fruits of the Musk is a completely, desperately synthetic fruity scent, as much milky-syrupy as pungent and artificial. White vanillic musks on the base, together with a dry, dusty and artificially earthy note of patchouli. That’s it, perfectly identical to itself for hours. Boring, cheap, plain, with the same quality, elegance and creativity of the worst celebrity fragrance out there.

    4/10

    07th December, 2014

    Diamondflame's avatar

    Singapore Singapore

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    Criminal of Love by By Kilian

    A mildly jammy rose set against a warm toasty backdrop of what smells a lot like cured tobacco leaves. I'm not so certain if there is any tobacco leaf in use or if it's more of an olfactive illusion created from a clever combination of patchouli, cedar, incense and immortelle. The narcotic vibe is clearly missing. Still it's a thoughtful if not entirely original deviation from the Rose-Patchouli, Rose-Oud or Rose-Incense sub genres. Average projection but impressive longevity, lasting over 10 hours on my skin. No worries over the use of immortelle either.

    07th December, 2014

    drseid's avatar

    United States United States

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    Perfume Calligraphy Rose by Aramis

    Perfume Calligraphy Rose goes on with sweet honeysuckle mixing with deep rose with mild saffron spice support. As the composition moves to its early heart the sweet honeysuckle and mild saffron spice remain now in support, as the rose strengthens into the star, joined by co-starring powdery lavender. As the composition moves through its heart the honeysuckle turns to more of a sweet strait-up honey, as the lavender powdered rose gradually adds in a prominent smooth styrax derived incense-like undertone. During the late dry-down the rose and lavender dissipate, revealing relatively clean musk and slightly powdery vanilla in the base. Projection is outstanding, and longevity excellent to outstanding at 12-14 hours on skin.

    Perfume Calligraphy Rose has been a composition on my radar for quite some time, but its limited distribution made trying it always just out of reach. Finally having now gotten a chance to sniff the composition it is clear it was worth the wait. No, one is not going to find a super-innovative concoction as let's face it, powdered rose has been done many times before. What distinguishes Perfume Calligraphy Rose from its many competitors is its outstanding performance and solid execution while still adding a small wrinkle or two to the standard powdered rose fair with its styrax derived incense undertone and honeysuckle derived sweetness. The powdery lavender can get just shy of too powdery at times, but deftly remains just within tolerable limits for the powder averse. That said, in truth, the *real* way to enjoy Perfume Calligraphy Rose is smelling its fabulous and powerful scent trail, as the powder becomes barely noticeable, letting the rose and incense accord shine in all its glory. The bottom line is Aramis has a solid history of producing quality compositions at bank account saving prices, and while the limited distribution Perfume Calligraphy Rose with its approximate $100 per 100ml price point is about double the cost of their regular line offerings, this "excellent" 4 star out of 5 rated winner keeps their bang-for-the-buck tradition intact and is well worth a sniff (and purchase) if one can find a bottle.

    06th December, 2014

    Colin Maillard's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Lady Million by Paco Rabanne

    Lady Million is to me a fruity-floral scent with all the worst mainstream features in place: plastic, boring, cheap. Dark-dusty synthetic patchouli on the base, aldehydes, something green, and the fruity-floral accord, so metallic and generic it can be anything (jasmine and gardenia, fine: you could have told me it contained rose and ylang, I’d have believed it too). Besides being boring and conventional, it’s also particularly tacky and cheap, with an everlasting and static (non) evolution for hours. I don’t get how this requested 4 noses.

    4,5-5/10

    06th December, 2014

    Schnitter's avatar



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    Luna Rossa by Prada

    It smells like an inferior version of Armani Code. Why get this when Armani Code is better?

    06th December, 2014

    Schnitter's avatar



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    Gucci Pour Homme II by Gucci

    Only one store had it in the 7 perfume shops I went to. The only place that had it look sketchy so I was worried it was a fake.

    I asked if they could open it so I could sample it and if it was real, I would most likely buy it. They let me and looked legit, matching serials, strong blue color, and THE SMELL. Oh my, I love the smell. Like nothing I've smelled before.

    Being that this was the only bottle in all fragrance stores around my area is a plus... no one will smell like me =)

    Unfortunately, projection isn't great nor is the lasting power. Carry a decant, worth it.

    06th December, 2014

    Straw's avatar



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    Le Mâle by Jean Paul Gaultier

    sweet,fresh,sometimes annoying i'd say.Average longevity and projection for me

    06th December, 2014

    JackTwist's avatar

    United States United States

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    Black Oud by Laurence Dumont

    For some time I have been intrigued with reviews of oud based scents, but on each attempt to try one, I’ve been repelled by what on my skin is a too-dark, too smoky note -- often smelling like wet burned firewood. So it was with some trepidation that I did a test spray of this scent while out shopping. It was love at first sniff, and the love persists all the way through the dry down on repeated applications.

    Black Oud opens with a burst of amber, soft, warm and mellow, with a slight smoky note supporting it, but in no way overwhelming it. It unfolds with a gentle spiciness (cardamom with ginger?) and soon develops an underlying soft leather note. For me it leaves the overall impression of inhaling a well-worn, high quality soft leather jacket whose owner wears both Hermes Equipage and Azarro Pour Homme.

    After a recent application, a friend, who knows scent well, first thought I’d applied Guerlain’s Heritage, then quickly switched to thinking it might be Mauboussin’s M Generation. He concluded it was better than either, yet a very intriguing blend of the best of each. The bottle and labeling is simple and elegant, and the price (I paid $45 for 100ml of EDP) is great. Well worth a try!

    06th December, 2014

    JackTwist's avatar

    United States United States

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    Replique by Long Lost Perfume

    Replique (1944) was Raphael’s first scent. In the course of 15 years he was to create just over a dozen (14 at my last count), most of which were sold only to European markets. Only his most popular, Replique and Plaisir (the latter a lighter version of the former) made it to the USA. The Raphael factory burned to the ground in 1959, taking with it almost all the formulas.

    Luckily, Replique and Plaisir (in pure parfum and edt versions) proliferate on Ebay, so they are easily enjoyed. [Note that the current re-formulation of Replique bears no resemblance to the original, but is a thoroughly enjoyable scent on its own (Rose de Mai and French wildflowers.]

    Replique is one of my five favorite scents of all time. It shares with Coty’s L’Aimant that indefinable “lift” and nuttiness that make these two rather unique in my perfume journey. Replique is a lovely nutty, complex, floral chypre. If you love L’Aimant, you’ll no doubt equally love Replique.

    Top notes: Bergamot, Clary Sage, Coriander, Cardamom, Lemon, Neroli, Orange

    Heart notes: Clove, Jasmine, Muguet, Orris, Rose, Tuberose, Ylang

    Base notes: Amber, Civet, Leather, Oakmoss, Musk, Patchouli, Vetiver, Vanilla

    One of the greatest and most original perfumes ever created.


    06th December, 2014

    james1051's avatar

    United States United States

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    Russian Tea by Masque

    Russian Tea is a highly aromatic, evolving perfume with the best tea note I have experienced.

    Immediately, RT presents as a tea scent, very leafy and natural. A tea soliflore perhaps, without all of the the sweetness usually attached to gourmand treatments of the note (5 O'Clock; Crime Exotique). The central tea note here is framed by citrus and by a very grassy herbal accord. And there is a floral note in the background, the exact identity of which is not clear. Is it a mild heliotrope? (NOPE! Its magnolia!) Whatever, the start is terrific, and I am immediately thinking, I don’t have anything else quite like this.

    After a bit, I was struck by how incredibly minty it is! And then a dry, leathery base comes up underneath. And as it opens further, an incense note wafts in, triggering associations with Memoir Man. Tea, mint, incense + leather is the heart of Russian Tea.

    For its first several hours, RT is very dry and very, very aromatic. But experiencing RT the next morning in its dry down, you can't help but notice that immortelle has arrived in the base, adding a sweet tobacco note to the mix and something else-- I perceive it more as cherries, the notes listed include raspberry. In any event, the formerly dry aromatic now has a fruity aspect which works surprisingly well.

    Russian Tea gives moderate projection in all phases, with 12+ hours length. I would wear this fragrance to the office without hesitation--indeed, with pride. FBW. Winner! Among the best of 2014.

    PS--The Directory listing for the perfume titles it "Russian Tea Ritual;" but I have not seen the word "Ritual" on the bottle or indeed on the Masque website. Can we edit the Directory listing?

    06th December, 2014

    Straw's avatar



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    212 VIP Men by Carolina Herrera

    Nice scent,bad longevity and sillage on me

    06th December, 2014

    Straw's avatar



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    He Wood by Dsquared2

    sickenly sweet and annoying,it stinks for me.good longevity and sillage though

    06th December, 2014

    Bofifa's avatar



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    Henry M Betrix City by Betrix

    Ultra-masculine fragrance, with great use of earthy patchouli and a simply sensational note of laudanum . Very persistent, refined and elegant, and non-intrusive projection. A great perfume, a masterpiece.

    06th December, 2014

    Tristana's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Lyric Woman by Amouage

    Not only roses .
    Lyric woman is a beautiful sandalwood (tons of sandalwood), rose and spicy fragrance.
    Reminds me a bit to Samsara vintage by Guerlain but Lyric is still better!
    The drydown is very beautiful; soft, creamy, slightly sweet. Incense and tonkabean play a marvellous duet on my skin.


    Colour of the bottle is just right for this scent.
    Lyric woman and man are the best pair of line Amouage!

    06th December, 2014

    bFlay's avatar

    United States United States

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    Équipage by Hermès

    After reading the great reviews, I had to try this and was left feeling...perplexed. EQUIPAGE is very floral, almost feminine and overwhelming. There is a pine note, though mild. I also get a tannic resins/leather note that is fleeting and so light it doesn't seem to hold it's own...a leather note I would associate with women. I don't really get spice notes at all. Rather bland fragrance overall that lasts approximately 5 hours on skin and breaks down to even more purely floral design long before that.

    06th December, 2014

    NickZee's avatar

    Australia Australia

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    Intimately Beckham Men by Beckham

    Smells like beef stock.

    06th December, 2014

    sjg3839's avatar

    United States United States

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    Cuir Tabac by David Jourquin

    Very nice combination of leather, tobacco, patchouli and lavender. Not a loud in your face leather. The patchouli and lavender addition gives it a light pine smell. Really like cuir tabac but price is higher than my desire to own it. Kind of reminds me of Itasca by Lubin with leather and tobacco added. 8/10

    06th December, 2014

    ConvertedByWetShaving's avatar

    United States United States

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    Pierre Cardin Pour Monsieur by Pierre Cardin

    THIS... this.... I was looking for something new, something I haven't tried yet, something... to round my order off to free shipping. So I stopped by my trusty Powerhouse group on here and went to the beginning of the SOTD post there, flipped through a bit, noticed that among the ones I haven't tried yet, Pierre Cardin came up a fair amount. Looked it up, it's drug store priced, why not.

    Ya know how sometimes when you try a fragrance that's new to you, ya put it on, you're kinda like, "Eh. (shrugs)", but at some point later on in the drydown it becomes something magnificent? This one travels in the opposite direction. It starts of eh, then dies, then I applied one more spray to myself thinking, "Well just how bad could it get?", and now I regret having done so. About an hour later it became this cloying... ya know that "crazy girlfriend" meme that's been floating about in various versions? This becomes that girl, but not even a little attractive, wrapped firmly around your leg. Perhaps with more experience I would be able to describe scent-wise exactly why, but... without being particularly powdery, it's juuuuuust a bit too powdery, and without being particularly sweet, it's juuuuust a bit too sweet. There ARE some interesting things going on in there, but I can't give a thumbs up to something I find myself wishing to escape about an hour in. MIND YOU, having recently purchased this, I'm pretty sure it's the non-vintage juice, or at least not the original.

    06th December, 2014

    ConvertedByWetShaving's avatar

    United States United States

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    Exceptional Because You Are for Men by Exceptional

    I kinda chuckled when I clicked "I own a sample" for this one on here. EVERYbody owns a sample, it comes free without even asking for it!

    Anyway, no, nothing "exceptional" about this, nothing remarkable, but I'm gonna give it a neutral rating because that's... pretty much what this fragrance strikes me to be. I suppose it could be suggested to be "unassuming" and "understated", but... it's nice, it's not unpleasant, it just doesn't seem to have anything much to offer to the conversation so to speak. I would neither bash nor buy it, to be honest and fair about this one.

    06th December, 2014

    Schnitter's avatar



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    Bentley for Men Intense by Bentley

    Initially, I was skeptical that a car fragrance could be as good as people have claimed it is. To make matters worse, the only fragrance store that had one, did not have a tester. I asked if they would have a tester soon and the manager said she would open it for me.

    One wiff and I was sold, it really is a great leather scent. Smells kind of a spicy DG - The One with strong leather.

    06th December, 2014

    ClassicFan's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Déclaration by Cartier

    It has a base that is similar in Terre D'Hermes but instead there is a cardamom floral note that goes over the funky base. It's nice and classic but I'll stick with TdH.

    06th December, 2014

    sjg3839's avatar

    United States United States

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    Perfume Calligraphy Rose by Aramis

    This is a beautiful rose fragrance. Smells very similar to an actual rose. The light saffron note combined with lavender and musk notes puts this on my want list. Projection and longevity are pretty good. I get an easy 8 hours from this gem. 8/10

    06th December, 2014

    tempest moon's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Putain des Palaces by Etat Libre d'Orange

    Powdery Violets...

    Putain des Palaces is a name which conjures up images of "brothel whores", with powdered makeup and overt sexuality, both in attire and attitudes. But this fragrance really smells nothing like that. As with many (but not all) of the Etat Libre d'Orange line, this has a provocative name and bottle packaging which does not reflect the smell of the liquid inside.

    Putain des Palaces opens up with a very juicy note, which I can only imagine is the combination between the mandarin orange and the ginger, combined with the violets. It gives everything a very "fresh" vibe which I like very much. Then the powder comes in, rose absolute, sweet violet and ambery musk-like powder, which nearly dominates the fragrance. Personally I like it, and do not find it too powdery for my taste, but I could see why other people might. There is also lilly-of-the-valley here, which combined with the powdery rose and violets, give this more of an "antique" fragrance smell, more associated with the old fashioned, conservative female floral perfumes of the past. However in true Etat Libre d'Orange style, it's still wearable... as they know how to balance the line between controversy and convenience.

    I think this one is very accessible, as long as you are ok with a little dusty powder and slightly "old smelling" florals. Personally I think this one is quite nice, and for me, very wearable. But as with all fragrances from this house, sample and test before buying.

    06th December, 2014

    Colin Maillard's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Teint de Neige by Lorenzo Villoresi

    Teint de Neige is a really nice “white” musky-aldehydic soapy scent floating in a plushy, dusty cloud of talc, with Oriental notes of tonka, spices, amber, vanilla, a powdery and graceful accord of flowers with a prominent pollen-like note of heliotrope. Warm and cozy, and quite superior quality-wise to many other Oriental “white-sweet” scents. The texture here is thick, rich, deep, smelling round and clean – I bet Villoresi (which for long time has been a great, honest and professional nose) used excellent ingredients here. I really enjoy the golden exoticism blended with a mellow, soapy and “chic” feel of warmth - feels like being in the coziest bath tub in the world. Despite being soft and sweet, is not exactly a discreet scent, so I’d use it more as a “comfort scent” at home; people around you may not enjoy its quite powerful sweet-Oriental projection. It’s refined, just a bit bold for a while. After a couple of hours it turns towards soapy-pollen notes of flowers, becoming a bit more grey, dusty, dry, with a more prominent presence of amber, slightly melancholic and pleasantly “outdated” too (the camphoraceous aftertaste of white musks plus aldehydes, I guess), always with exotic hints of tonka. Shortly just a bit less plushy and sweet than the opening. Long-lasting, mellow drydown with mostly talc-soapy-ambery notes. Graceful and refined. I thought of Jaipur Homme at some points. Really nice!

    7,5-8/10

    05th December, 2014

    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Roberto Cavalli by Roberto Cavalli

    Roberto cavalli, as well as described below, is a cozy uncompromisingly feminine mélange of floral notes, piquant spices, orange blossoms, fava tonka and soapy-resinous patterns. The outcome is really warm and sensual. I detect by soon a somewhat (vaguely) balmy intoxicating blast of bergamot, orange and spices (a prominent pepper, cinnamon and may be nutmeg). Anyway the aroma is still dry and sparkling in this phase but keeps gradually sliding towards a powdery-floral, balmy and (partially) resinous dry down veined by myrrh, vanilla, orangy tuberose, (probably) iris, amber and mild tobacco. This final phase is cozy, still peppery (like glistering in the sky as the stars) and luxuriant, really warm and semi-oriental. Not a sort of masterpiece but a modern-chic experiment arousing an aura of dynamic indipendence and optimistic glamour. Good longevity on my skin.

    05th December, 2014

    Colin Maillard's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Beloved Man by Amouage

    Beloved Man opens as a pleasant sort of contemporary aromatic-fresh fougère, a woody scent with spicy-floral notes, a green accord (not listed, but I do smell something herbal, balsamic and pine-y). I also get something like a soft, smooth and subtle leather note underneath. The opening is fresh and vibrant, with a nice head accord of round and fruity citrus and bergamot notes (and elemi, which is basically only a generic candied feel), well blended with cedar and the aromatic, salty earthiness of vetiver. In the middle, violet, amber, spices (cloves, cumin), perhaps other flowers. Amber and violet above all provide a cozy sense of mellow warmth. As other Amouage scents, it has an “expensive-smelling” radiant brightness, and is surely pleasant and refined, although also quite a bit synthetic (not in a good way). Plus, nothing really original: again, like other fragrances by this brand, it shows a quite evident inspiration from several late 90’s/early 2000s masculine mainstream scents. Moving on from the opening, once the fresher side tones down, it becomes a darker woody-spicy scent which to me seems pointing towards a couple of “golden-era” Gucci scents. Notably, underneath Beloved Man I feel a sort of faded ghost of Gucci pour Homme I; just fresher, a bit more flashy, and with more Iso E Super, but the "spiced pencil sharpener" is quite totally there. For a while, the similarity smells quite clear to me, then on the very drydown Beloved takes a (slightly) different direction, becoming a bit more dry, herbal, with a more nostalgic and austere feel. Not bad for sure, so keep it and treasure it if someone gifts it to you; but nothing really new and surely unworthy the insane price.

    6,5/10

    05th December, 2014

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Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000